# 1st wax down!



## KillerDave (Mar 11, 2013)

Not sure this is the right place tout this but here goes.... :dunno:


Last night, I decided to give my board a wax for the first time.... For me that is...

It did go well and I am very happy with the results but I might have a problem when I put my bindings back on...

Right under the fixings, there seem to be little pits on the base....

It's like the fixings are pulling the base up...

I'm guessing I'm over tightening the screws???? :dunno::dunno::dunno:

Any help please???


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## cav0011 (Jan 4, 2009)

pictures would help a lot with this. I would guess it is nothing though. When you wax your board the material under the bindings heats up at a different rate due to the change in thickness of the board there and the materials present (the metal of the inserts) it can make an illusion like effect. then again you could be over tightening your screws but odds are you put more force on the binding through riding it then you could by tightening screws (unless you are using a power tool to tighten them)


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## Deacon (Mar 2, 2013)

A ton of people have that. Some take their bindings off, some loosen them slighty, a lot don't worry about it. When you brush the board you'll take those little spot of wax out. I'm doing all mine today for the first time too. Been reading and watching a crap ton for research. Four boards and two pairs of skis, I can't afford NOT to do them myself. :laugh:


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## cav0011 (Jan 4, 2009)

I find waxing to be relaxing. I just take my time and almost mediate while doing it. In the end you save money and get some time to think....waxing is pretty mindless


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## tony10 (Jun 15, 2013)

ive heard and been told it is wise to take your bindings off when you wax, ive always done that and have never had any issues like yours. 

im not sure if bindings can cause that either though so if i were you id look into waxing with bindings on vs off


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## KillerDave (Mar 11, 2013)

So, I have been told and seen on YouTube that you should remove the bindings??? Is that right??

How tight should the screws be?

I'm not using a power tool, just by hand...

Sorry, I did try to take a picture of it but you just can't make it out...


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## killclimbz (Aug 10, 2007)

Fwiw, I just throw the board on my waxing stand and wax it. I do not loosen/remove the bindings or in my case pucks. 
Have had any issues for the last 24 years or so. I think it's working out ok.


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

killclimbz said:


> Fwiw, I just throw the board on my waxing stand and wax it. I do not loosen/remove the bindings or in my case pucks.
> Have had any issues for the last 24 years or so. I think it's working out ok.


Same here.




tony10 said:


> ive heard and been told it is wise to take your bindings off when you wax


Why? Only to avoid these insert spots?


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## NWBoarder (Jan 10, 2010)

The inserts cause dimples in the base. It's not uncommon, and it's not a problem. Congrats on the first wax, it only gets easier.


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## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

*binding removal is optional*

good job, its not rocket surgery.

ignore the little binding spots, and by ignore I mean don't compensate what you see by doing anything with the screws on the other side or wax the area any differently.

the screws/holes are just heat sinks. the only way to fuck it up is to obsess an try to "fix" it. that shit is normal, ignore it.

I personally don't like torquing and retorquing the only part of my deck which could possibly wear out. I probably wax 20-30x a year, not trying to wear out the only part of the deck that can wear out. I put my bindings on tight in october and they stay that way.


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## CheesemonkE (Nov 29, 2010)

Like other people have said here it's not going to cause a problem but you can avoid it happening by simply loosening the screws on your bindings before a wax. No need to remove the bindings.


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

Taking the bindings off or loosening the screws...you are at more risk of stripping or cross threading the inserts...or forgetting to tighten back down the screws and having the binding loosen up.

When you wax...it is a good opportunity to inspect the board and bindings for issues of maintenance or repair...I always go through all the screws/bolts/nuts/ladders/straps/ratchets...better to catch it on the bench instead of ruining a day or a run on the hill.


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## CheesemonkE (Nov 29, 2010)

wrathfuldeity said:


> Taking the bindings off or loosening the screws...*you are at more risk of stripping or cross threading the inserts*


Still seems unlikely



wrathfuldeity said:


> ...or forgetting to tighten back down the screws and having the binding loosen up.


Perhaps a concern if you are retarded


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## CassMT (Mar 14, 2013)

ii love to wax and tune, i do a touchup pretty much every night

i also do not loosen or remove bindings...no probs on many different boards


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## KillerDave (Mar 11, 2013)

Thanks everyone!

I really enjoyed my first wax job and IMHO, I think it "looks" as good as the shop would do....

I guess the proof will be when I ride next... 

It's a little like, Why pay a dude to do something I could do?
Also, if there's anything wrong with it, I only have myself to blame and put it right....

I now feel married to my board! Lol... :laugh::laugh::laugh:

As for the dimples....
I might back the screws off and re-apply thread lock???

Anyway, as ever... You guys are great! Thank you...


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

one thing you have to remember is... if you loosen the screws or remove the bindings, you have to remember the blue loctite on the threads.

Good news is, the blue loctite is fairly forgiving. So you have a few times you can remove and tighten the screws.

After that... then you need to use blue loctite on the threads, to avoid vibration loosening (which is why the blue loctite is there in the first place).


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## KillerDave (Mar 11, 2013)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> one thing you have to remember is... if you loosen the screws or remove the bindings, you have to remember the blue loctite on the threads.
> 
> Good news is, the blue loctite is fairly forgiving. So you have a few times you can remove and tighten the screws.
> 
> After that... then you need to use blue loctite on the threads, to avoid vibration loosening (which is why the blue loctite is there in the first place).


Thanks for that...

Do you know what number Loctite it is???

I guess, if you just pull the screws in without yanking on them too much, that will be enough (with the Loctite)???


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## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

loctite is for nubs


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## KillerDave (Mar 11, 2013)

snowklinger said:


> loctite is for nubs


Nubs?... Am I a nub?? What is a Nub???


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

I'm guessing he meant noobs.

Every binding I have purchased through out the years had come with blue loctite applied onto the screw threads. 

And... it's No. 242


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## KillerDave (Mar 11, 2013)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> I'm guessing he meant noobs.
> 
> Every binding I have purchased through out the years had come with blue loctite applied onto the screw threads.
> 
> And... it's No. 242


Ah! Yeah, that'll be me then! 

When I took the bindings off, I did notice one big chunk of Loctite #242 
Fell out!

Thanks for the info, I'll get some in...

I have some other stuff but if I put the on the threads, I'll brake the inserts out!!! 

Thanks again! :thumbsup:


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## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)




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## KillerDave (Mar 11, 2013)

Man, I almost fell off my chair laughing!

So, I guess Nubs is a good thing?!?!? Lol


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## lander91 (Mar 14, 2013)

Personal preference in my opinion - I take my bindings off when I wax my board, my husband leaves his on. I don't know if I'd bother taking them off if I had a servicing stand or whatnot, but the board is more stable lying on the floor if I take them off vs leaving them on.

I've never used loctite on either of my boards... never had any issues with bindings working loose so never bothered with it. Plus I have one set of bindings for two boards so depending on what I'm doing I'll swap them back and forth. I figure if I'm going to strip the bolts it'll be from swapping bindings more than from removing them to wax.


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## Littlebigdreams (Jan 27, 2011)

I'm just too lazy to loosen up the bindings for every wax. I have the contact pros so I have to unscrew and remove the footbed first, which is too much work for a lazy bum like me. 

But I try not to iron near the bindings for too long, usually i try to melt the wax and spread it as quickly as possible and leave that area of good. So far it seems to have prevented the problem and my base looks perfectly fine.


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## Deacon (Mar 2, 2013)

*Start 'em early!*









It's never too early to learn...:laugh:


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## KillerDave (Mar 11, 2013)

The Deacon said:


> It's never too early to learn...:laugh:


hmy: You've left your bindings on!!!


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## KillerDave (Mar 11, 2013)

lander91 said:


> Personal preference in my opinion - I take my bindings off when I wax my board, my husband leaves his on. I don't know if I'd bother taking them off if I had a servicing stand or whatnot, but the board is more stable lying on the floor if I take them off vs leaving them on.
> 
> I've never used loctite on either of my boards... never had any issues with bindings working loose so never bothered with it. Plus I have one set of bindings for two boards so depending on what I'm doing I'll swap them back and forth. I figure if I'm going to strip the bolts it'll be from swapping bindings more than from removing them to wax.


This is how I'm starting to think too...
I work in engineering so I guess that why I asked in the first place.
I do have some mechanical sympathy and I don't think I would ever strip a screw or indeed cross thread one...

For a stand, I used a keyboard stand, worked great... 

As for bindings working loose, I did have my rear binding move on me last week and it was enough to change the angle, I checked it out on the slop and 3 out of the 4 screws were loose-ish.... The last people to touch them were the shop when I got it serviced last....


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

The Deacon said:


> It's never too early to learn...:laugh:


It that mom's iron?


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## Deacon (Mar 2, 2013)

wrathfuldeity said:


> It that mom's iron?


No, I bought one at Saver's for a couple bucks.


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## BigmountainVMD (Oct 9, 2011)

Yeah, you really don't need any goo in there to help keep your screws in. Just tighten them correctly.

FWIW, I think it's important to incrementally tighten the screws diagonal from one another. I crisscross tighten about 3 times before everything is locked in perfect.

If you just start with screw 1 and tighten it all the way, by the time you get to 4, 1 will be loose again.


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## Krato (Apr 29, 2013)

That's what happens when you don't loosen your bindings/leave the iron on your board too long. It's not a problem though. Just remember those inserts are made of metal and they love to conduct heat.


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## KillerDave (Mar 11, 2013)

*Which wax???*

So, after a couple of waxes, I'm not convinced the wax I have is that great???
What I'm using is BUTTER but I've been advised to use Bluebird Yellow...

Any views on this???


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## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

KillerDave said:


> So, after a couple of waxes, I'm not convinced the wax I have is that great???
> What I'm using is BUTTER but I've been advised to use Bluebird Yellow...
> 
> Any views on this???


not enough info. temperature of snow? manmade? where u ridin' son? Snowdome? What is the air temp in those fuckers?

also aside from temperature choices, the main difference in wax brands is 99.9% cosmetic unless you are planning to medal in a downhill event at the winter olympics. I buy big blocks of whatevers cheap, right now I'm going thru 2lbs of bluebird all-temp (but I had to get my board waxed on the hill today with cold temp wax as the temps were so severely low that it was like velcro, literally).


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## KillerDave (Mar 11, 2013)

snowklinger said:


> not enough info. temperature of snow? manmade? where u ridin' son? Snowdome? What is the air temp in those fuckers?
> 
> also aside from temperature choices, the main difference in wax brands is 99.9% cosmetic unless you are planning to medal in a downhill event at the winter olympics. I buy big blocks of whatevers cheap, right now I'm going thru 2lbs of bluebird all-temp (but I had to get my board waxed on the hill today with cold temp wax as the temps were so severely low that it was like velcro, literally).


Ok, sorry 

In our indoor Center it's like -6C but I am going to Andorra over Christmas....
Not sure how cold it is there???


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

Yeah I ride with all-temp wax (supposed to be good from -1 to -5 deg C or something) all the time. Only time it gets really bad is if it's SUPER cold (like -20 or worse) or you're riding in slush.

Cold temp wax will help with the cold, nothing will help with the slush!

Are you texturing your base after you wax? Texture pads and/or a stiff bristled brush?


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## KillerDave (Mar 11, 2013)

poutanen said:


> Yeah I ride with all-temp wax (supposed to be good from -1 to -5 deg C or something) all the time. Only time it gets really bad is if it's SUPER cold (like -20 or worse) or you're riding in slush.
> 
> Cold temp wax will help with the cold, nothing will help with the slush!
> 
> Are you texturing your base after you wax? Texture pads and/or a stiff bristled brush?


Texturing, yes but there seems to be differing views on how to do this...
Any tips???


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## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

KillerDave said:


> Texturing, yes but there seems to be differing views on how to do this...
> Any tips???


I like to ride thru the parking lot to my car.


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## freshy (Nov 18, 2009)

snowklinger said:


> also aside from temperature choices, the main difference in wax brands is 99.9% cosmetic unless you are planning to medal in a downhill event at the winter olympics...


In my experience that is so not true. The cheap crap is paraffin based, there is also whatever formula Hertel uses, fluoro wax, graphite wax I could list more if I felt like researching them. But at any rate there is a reason the fluoro wax is twice as expensive as regular wax, you go way faster. I'm not even talking about the $100/gram olympic type shit.


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## Oldman (Mar 7, 2012)

freshy said:


> In my experience that is so not true. The cheap crap is paraffin based, there is also whatever formula Hertel uses, fluoro wax, graphite wax I could list more if I felt like researching them. But at any rate there is a reason the fluoro wax is twice as expensive as regular wax, you go way faster. I'm not even talking about the $100/gram olympic type shit.


This is very true. But for a solid reference point for the majority of riders, the All Temperature offering from the likes of Toko, Swix, Dominator and Briko-Mapus would be an excellent choice.

Just remember as soon as it gets to near -20 C nothing but a good cold (aka HARD) wax will keep you sliding.


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

KillerDave said:


> Texturing, yes but there seems to be differing views on how to do this...
> Any tips???


Yeah, don't over think it, but after scraping (scraping WELL) use a stiff bristled brush from tip to tail a few times. I was putting together a video at the end of last year but ended up drinking too much beer instead! :icon_scratch:


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## SnowDogWax (Nov 8, 2013)

1. Since we never can fix the conditions of the snow. 
2. Means that our only possibility is to adjust the slider surface with wax or structuring the base. 
4. Low snow temperatures hardness of the wax is the decisive factor for friction reduction.
5. Temps & humidity increases the hydrophobic properties of the wax are of importance and correct structuring of base is vital. 

Slush agreed nothing works except a swim suit.


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## Lamps (Sep 3, 2011)

SnowDogWax said:


> 1. Since we never can fix the conditions of the snow.
> 2. Means that our only possibility is to adjust the slider surface with wax or structuring the base.
> 4. Low snow temperatures hardness of the wax is the decisive factor for friction reduction.
> 5. Temps & humidity increases the hydrophobic properties of the wax are of importance and correct structuring of base is vital.
> ...


Base grind with deep structuring (grooves) helps a bit in slush.


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## SnowDogWax (Nov 8, 2013)

*Lamps On!*



Lamps said:


> Base grind with deep structuring (grooves) helps a bit in slush.


Yes! its huge, structuring in x pattern to remove liquid quickly.
Cold is tip to tail, keeping liquid acting as lube long as possible.


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## KillerDave (Mar 11, 2013)

SnowDogWax said:


> Yes! its huge, structuring in x pattern to remove liquid quickly.
> Cold is tip to tail, keeping liquid acting as lube long as possible.


Thanks everyone! So, I did order the bluebird cold wax and from what has been said above, I think I should be good to go...

The wax did come yesterday and I'm going for a ride today after work but I don't have time to wax before I go...

Thanks again and I'll let you know how I get on with it...

*BTW, can you go too cold???* with the wax I mean...


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

KillerDave said:


> Thanks everyone! So, I did order the bluebird cold wax and from what has been said above, I think I should be good to go...
> 
> The wax did come yesterday and I'm going for a ride today after work but I don't have time to wax before I go...
> 
> ...


Yes and no. There is a sweet spot for wax for different snow & temperature conditions.

However, even if you have the "proper" wax for the conditions, and you find a lot of wax usage on the edges... you can sprinkle on some Swix CH3 and iron it in at the edge, to fortify that area.


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## neachdainn (Dec 8, 2012)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> Yes and no. There is a sweet spot for wax for different snow & temperature conditions.
> 
> However, even if you have the "proper" wax for the conditions, and you find a lot of wax usage on the edges... you can sprinkle on some Swix CH3 and iron it in at the edge, to fortify that area.


His hair.. oh my god, his hair! :laugh:


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## hktrdr (Apr 3, 2012)

neachdainn said:


> His hair.. oh my god, his hair! :laugh:


Vanilla Ice lives and is a skier now!


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## SnowDogWax (Nov 8, 2013)

Edge care! Just use an All Temperature wax, then drip a little Cold/Ice wax on edge then don't over scrap. Brush, brush brush your wax in more the over scraping guys will always have edge problems.

Unless your racing and re-waxing after a couple of runs. I repeat don't over scrap!


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## Varza (Jan 6, 2013)

SnowDogWax said:


> Edge care! Just use an All Temperature wax, then drip a little Cold/Ice wax on edge then don't over scrap. Brush, brush brush your wax in more the over scraping guys will always have edge problems.
> 
> Unless your racing and re-waxing after a couple of runs. I repeat don't over scrap!


When I get close to the edge, I always switch to the plastic scraper and go more carefully. It takes longer, but... does it help? :dunno:


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## KillerDave (Mar 11, 2013)

SnowDogWax said:


> Edge care! Just use an All Temperature wax, then drip a little Cold/Ice wax on edge then don't over scrap. Brush, brush brush your wax in more the over scraping guys will always have edge problems.
> 
> Unless your racing and re-waxing after a couple of runs. I repeat don't over scrap!


How do I know if I'm over scraping? I use a plastic scraper and brush as the guy in the video but I guess I could scrape til nothing more is coming off???


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