# To ptex or not to ptex?



## Pow?POW!

Hmm I'd say you'll probably be alright. However you could use this tiny gash as a learning experience as to how to ptex a base. That way the first time you might have to do a repair its not a jarring dent and should one come along in the future you would have some experience doing it already. 

Just a thought.


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## Nsane1

Hmm, that was kind of my thoughts. I've done a little body work repair on vehicles before and I figure your looking for the same thing, fill it in and shave it down until it's perfectly flat. I've watched some videos on doing it even before this happened. 

I'm just a little skiddish about it because it's my first time. I was wondering if the ptex you use should be the same molecular weight as your base... Also, the ptex in the kit looks whitish/clear. This will be going on a white base, I was curious on how much this will stand out. As of now you can't even see it, just feel it. Also, how thick are the bases of most boards?


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## ColoRADical

As long as you don't burn the clear ptex it won't really stand out. Depending on what your base looks like, it will be impossible to tell the difference between ptex and base.


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## Pow?POW!

Nsane1 said:


> *I'm just a little skiddish about it because it's my first time.* I was wondering if the ptex you use should be the same molecular weight as your base... Also, the ptex in the kit looks whitish/clear. This will be going on a white base, I was curious on how much this will stand out. As of now you can't even see it, just feel it. Also, how thick are the bases of most boards?


I feel because it is your first time now would be the perfect time to give it a try cause it is so small. I'm sure it's best also to match the weight of the ptex with your base but being such a small scratch I don't think It'll make that much of a difference. Also if its clear/white I don't think It'll be too noticeable on a white base.

Sorry I don't know much about the process of ptexing as I have never had to do it before (somehow) haha also I couldn't comment on the thickness of a snowboard base, hopefully someone more knowledgeable will be able to help you there.


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## Tech420

Dude just wax it and you won't even notice them.


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## Toecutter

Base repair with P-Tex candles is remarkably easy. I was shocked at how simple it was my first time. "That's it??? That's all there is to it???" were my thoughts.

Light the P-tex candle, drip it into the defect, let it cool, scrape. Voila!


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## Pow?POW!

Toecutter said:


> Base repair with P-Tex candles is remarkable easy. I was shocked at how simple it was my first time. "That's it??? That's all there is to it???" were my thoughts.
> 
> Light the P-tex candle, drip it into the defect, let it cool, scrape. Voila!


Thats nice to know. Cause doing this and detuning/beveling edges are the two things that have me scared when it comes to maintaining my board.


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## ColoRADical

Pow?POW! said:


> Thats nice to know. Cause doing this and detuning/beveling edges are the two things that have me scared when it comes to maintaining my board.


Bevelling edges is more permanent than ptex. Once you grind them down to a point, you're stuck with them. Ptex you can just scrape out. Go for it! It's therapeutic during this shitty winter


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## GreatScott

ColoRADical said:


> It's therapeutic during this shitty winter


Napalm dripping on your board is therapeutic? Do you like a little rough play in the bedroom too? I've done many ptex repairs and I'm always anxious.

The job is easy... but drink a few beers before you start.


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## Toecutter

GreatScott said:


> but drink a few beers before you start.


In order to ensure you drip napalm onto your bare skin and floor? LOL!


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## Toecutter

Hey, the OP's avatar looks like a P-Tex job gone wrong!


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## ColoRADical

GreatScott said:


> Napalm dripping on your board is therapeutic? Do you like a little rough play in the bedroom too? I've done many ptex repairs and I'm always anxious.
> 
> The job is easy... but drink a few beers before you start.


Nothing wrong with a little horseplay  and I love messing around with set ups. I clean my bearings and change bushing combos when it rains over the summer too


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## Toecutter

ColoRADical said:


> I clean my bearings and change bushing combos when it rains over the summer too


Are we talking about garage activities or bedroom activities here?


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## ColoRADical

Toecutter said:


> Are we talking about garage activities or bedroom activities here?


Longboard activities to be specific :laugh:


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## WasatchMan

Didn't feel like starting a new thread for this - but while on the topic of damaged boards, I hit a tree today and was wondering if this needed immediate attention? Question may be stupid but I've never damaged my board in this way...

There is a decent sized gap on each end, like a sandwich falling apart (hard to see with all the mud and bark stuffed in there), and you can completely pull back (lift up?) the top sheet with your finger


















Probably nothing to worry about eh?


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## Pow?POW!

I dunno man If you can completely pull back the top layer I'd be afraid I could expose my core to moisture.


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## Toecutter

^ I'm no expert but it seems as if delamination like that can allow water to enter between the layers, which could cause problems maybe?


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## GreatScott

Toecutter said:


> In order to ensure you drip napalm onto your bare skin and floor? LOL!


I make my misses lie under the board when I do it. Different strokes for different folks, lol.

Toecutter, what is your avatar a picture of?


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## CheeseForSteeze

I would epoxy that up, WasatchMan. You can fix it for about $10-15. A two part epoxy from home depot or lowes, a couple of small c-clamps (you can find them for like $2-3) and a couple pieces of thin scrap wood or metal.

Let the board sit in a dry, room temperature environment (in your house, preferably). If you can dry it at a LOW temperature with a heatgun or hairdryer after letting it sit for at least 24 hours, that's even better.

Mix the two part up really well and us a popsicle stick or something similar to apply it between the topsheet and the core. Clamp it down, using the pieces of scrap wood or metal to act as pressure distribution plates. Let it cure for at least 24 hours. Also, before you let it set, if any epoxy squeezes out, wipe it up, you'll be saving yourself work later.

Come back 24-48 hours later and sand/file down all excess that squeezed out. You're done.


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## Ocho

GreatScott said:


> Toecutter, what is your avatar a picture of?


I've been wondering this as well! 

Is it a rare beached sea creature?

Some sort of fetus?

A rare beached sea creature fetus?

And, is that other thing a leg?

:laugh:


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## Toecutter

Hide your children!

Mystery Creature Dead in Panama - Alien or ? - YouTube


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## Ocho

Toecutter said:


> Hide your children!
> 
> Mystery Creature Dead in Panama - Alien or ? - YouTube


Ohhhh!

Alien or sloth, so sad they killed it


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## WasatchMan

CheeseForSteeze said:


> I would epoxy that up, WasatchMan. You can fix it for about $10-15. A two part epoxy from home depot or lowes, a couple of small c-clamps (you can find them for like $2-3) and a couple pieces of thin scrap wood or metal.
> 
> Let the board sit in a dry, room temperature environment (in your house, preferably). If you can dry it at a LOW temperature with a heatgun or hairdryer after letting it sit for at least 24 hours, that's even better.
> 
> Mix the two part up really well and us a popsicle stick or something similar to apply it between the topsheet and the core. Clamp it down, using the pieces of scrap wood or metal to act as pressure distribution plates. Let it cure for at least 24 hours. Also, before you let it set, if any epoxy squeezes out, wipe it up, you'll be saving yourself work later.
> 
> Come back 24-48 hours later and sand/file down all excess that squeezed out. You're done.


Perfect! Thank you so much :thumbsup:


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## ColoRADical

WasatchMan said:


> Perfect! Thank you so much :thumbsup:


If you have acess to a syringe (dont ask don't tell) it works really well when applying epoxy.


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## Nsane1

Wow guys, thanks for all the quick responses. For some reason it didn't email me like it usually does when a new post was made. Any who, I'm going to ptex the one deeper, longer gash that is close to my bindings. Like someone said, it will be a good gash to practice/learn on. 

Plus, I need to do a good wax too. I hate the snow around me, I live in the midwest and it's all man-made icey garbage. I'll probably end up waxing almost every trip this year as the warm day temps and cold night temps are just melting and freezing continuously. Making for super icey conditions. 

Checked out a bunch of different base repair videos on YouTube and now I feel pretty confident. Keeping the flame blue is something I probably wouldn't have done/known to do if it weren't for all the great videos online. I :heart: the interweb.


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## Nsane1

Well, just an update. 

After getting my snowboard work table built I finally got around to repairing my base and doing my first wax. 

Repair went well, Had to do the deeper gouge a second time because the first time I did it I pressed too hard when initially scraping and pulled most of it back out of the groove. Also, I don't think I was letting the ptex get hot enough the first go round. Sencond pass came out perfect. I did get a little more "brown/carbon" than I would've liked but it's not even really noticable. I held the ptex low so the flame stayed blue, not sure what else I could've done.

The wax went well but I used wayyy too much. I'm guessing a newb mistake that most people make, but out of my 100g thing of wax I used about 3/8th's of it... yikes. Oh well, guess I was just loving the smell of that One Ball. LOL After scraping for a long while it came out pretty nice looking I think. Was wondering if there was anything else I could do after the scrape phase? I lightly went over the board with a green scotch brite and then with the cork pad that came with the rub on wax in the kit. Didn't really see that it helped. 

So, thanks again for the encouraging words, give me some feedback on little steps people to just to polish it up after the wax. Thanks.


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## vwbrian

If you can get a hold of a small propane torch they work great for lighting your Ptex keeps most of the black bits out of it. and keep your flame low roll the ptex while it is lit and you should be good. also a metal scraper to follow along with the ptex to hit the black specs on will keep your ptex clean and clear


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## CheeseForSteeze

If you find the repair works itself loose and you have to re-p-tex it, use a heatgun or something to bring up the base temperature as much as possible. Enough to get it warm (like waxing iron warm) but not too much to damage it. Welding theory tells us this makes for a better, more permanent bond.


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## Nsane1

CheeseForSteeze said:


> If you find the repair works itself loose and you have to re-p-tex it, use a heatgun or something to bring up the base temperature as much as possible. Enough to get it warm (like waxing iron warm) but not too much to damage it. Welding theory tells us this makes for a better, more permanent bond.


I was wondering about this. Seems like it would bond better if they were close in temp as the ptex cools instantly. Thanks. 

Also, I lit it with an acetylene torch as it was what I had handy..., maybe a little too hot.


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