# Brushes for Hot Waxing, and Citristrip



## Dawg Catcher (Jan 5, 2009)

i have always heard of the cork pads used for buffing primarily rub on wax


----------



## Guest (Jan 22, 2009)

gamer539 said:


> So, I went to my local hardware store and ski shop to scout out stuff I can buy for waxing. Is there much different between the brushes I get from the hardware store (Ace Hardware), or from the snowboard shop? I found this brass brush at the hardware store that I thought to get for pre-cleaning the old wax and crud on the board. Will this damage my base?
> 
> I asked the guy at the ski shop and he said the bristles are smaller for the dedicated ski brushes.
> 
> ...


i use an old nylon brush that i cut the bristles down. And a scotch brite pad... I cant afford a brass brush and a horsehair brush...lol Well considering your base is pretty much just plastic i couldnt see how those cleaners would hurt. Just get the most mild one you can.. Or water it down...


Dawg Catcher said:


> i have always heard of the cork pads used for buffing primarily rub on wax


also for buffing p-tex


----------



## gamer539 (Oct 29, 2008)

the guy at the store said their brass brushes were in the back, and were like 30 bucks, the big oval ones with the handle even more expensive, like 40 or 50. I asked what I should get if I'm a recreational snowboarder, and he said nothing, just stick to scotchbrites, the brushes are for racers, and people who "re-structure" their bases (if I heard correctly, what does this mean?).


----------



## Guest (Jan 23, 2009)

If you take the necessary precautions and pay attention to what you are doing then save yourself a ton of $$ and get the supplies from the hardware store. WAX and CORK are the only things I bought for waxing from the ski shop.

1. I use a BBQ grill cleaning brush refill for my cleaning brush. It does a great job but you must apply very light pressure.
2. Cleaner. I use Brake Cleaner to de-wax. Spray on, wipe immediately. 
3. To clean up a base with no wax I use a mild detergent or highly diluted Industrial Degreaser.
4. I use a nylon scrub bush for cleaning floors during polishing.
5. Generic scotch brite type pads.
6. Synthetic Diamond Stones Fine and Course for debur and polish. 
7. Generic cutting file for tale and tip detuning.
8. Swix comp edge tool for edge sharpening. this is one tool I recommend getting from the shop unless you are a master at using generic file guides.


----------



## futurefunk (Jan 3, 2009)

I just use a $3 nylon brush that was the stiffest at the local hardware shop. Does the trick. 

Heard conflicting reports about kerosene as a cheap substitute for base cleaner.


----------



## Dawg Catcher (Jan 5, 2009)

pyro13g said:


> 2. Cleaner. I use Brake Cleaner to de-wax. Spray on, wipe immediately.


seems like a very very very very very bad idea. i atleast hope you are using the non-chlorinated stuff.

FYI that stuff is horrible on anything plastic or plastic based.


----------



## Swiftmac (Dec 25, 2008)

I was just in the hardware store(home depot) checking out if I could pick up a brush to polish and some scotch brite pads to finish. If i just grad the stiffest nylon brush with the shirtest bristles will I be ok? No nylon brush will be too stiff and damage my board will it? They had a nice one shaped like an iron with a handle so I might get that. 

Also, are the scotch brite heavy duty scour pads too harsh to finish the polishing step? multi purpose scour more suitable?


----------



## arsenic0 (Nov 11, 2008)

Just get a green scotchbrite pad lol your over thinking it..you can get a giant package of like 12 at the dollar tree.


----------



## Swiftmac (Dec 25, 2008)

haha alright ill go there then. i only asked because at home depot and lowes where i was looking for a brush the only scotch brite pads they had were the heavy duty ones with a bunch of cautions on the back on what not to use them on.


----------



## Guest (Nov 2, 2009)

any other suggestions to de-wax your board besides "brake cleaner and industrial degreaser"?


----------



## MunkySpunk (Jan 7, 2009)

Store brand citrus cleaner + Green Scotchbrite pads = $5
Elbow grease = Free

Spray on, scrub like hell. Wipe off 3X with a wet cloth. Dry thoroughly. Your base will look like a dirty chalkboard. Those are open pores waiting for new wax.


----------



## ifresh21 (Oct 19, 2009)

so to scrape it while it's hot, drip the wax, rub it in a bit (or a lot?), and scrape everything off? 

I wanna start doing it myself the idiots at the shop supposedly burned some wax and now part of the white base is black. Will scraping while hot fix that?


----------



## Jay29 (Dec 2, 2008)

Can you use Goo Gone for cleaning?


----------



## cstrumol (Sep 28, 2009)

Best thing to do to clean your base up is a hot scrape! Put wax on as if you were going to normally, once you have it on, scrape if off while its still hot/warm. The pores of the board will be open from the heat and the wax will pull out all the crap. Once you're done just wax it up as usual.


----------



## CapitaRider (Aug 28, 2009)

cstrumol said:


> Best thing to do to clean your base up is a hot scrape! Put wax on as if you were going to normally, once you have it on, scrape if off while its still hot/warm. The pores of the board will be open from the heat and the wax will pull out all the crap. Once you're done just wax it up as usual.


when is it good to do that? Every wax or just every so often?


----------



## DC5R (Feb 21, 2008)

CapitaRider said:


> when is it good to do that? Every wax or just every so often?


You can do it every day after riding if you want, but I don't find it necessary unless you're snowboarding in crud all day. I only do this at the end of the season or when I think the base is too dirty for citrus cleaner.


----------



## MunkySpunk (Jan 7, 2009)

CapitaRider said:


> when is it good to do that? Every wax or just every so often?


Only when it's getting real dirty. I usually go over the board real softly with a wire grill cleaning brush refill ($5 home depot). That gets the very top surface of wax off along with the dirt. Wipe it down and you're good for another coat of wax.


----------



## ifresh21 (Oct 19, 2009)

MunkySpunk said:


> Only when it's getting real dirty. I usually go over the board real softly with a wire grill cleaning brush refill ($5 home depot). That gets the very top surface of wax off along with the dirt. Wipe it down and you're good for another coat of wax.


So basically a hot scrape is better than a cleaner?

After the wax is rubbed/ironed in should you scrape immediately or wait for it to dry/cool a bit?

Can a hot scrape damage the base? Should you use a little or a lot of wax before scraping?


----------



## Flick Montana (Jul 9, 2007)

ifresh21 said:


> So basically a hot scrape is better than a cleaner?
> 
> After the wax is rubbed/ironed in should you scrape immediately or wait for it to dry/cool a bit?
> 
> Can a hot scrape damage the base? Should you use a little or a lot of wax before scraping?


You want to wait for it to cool unless you're using a wax that is meant for hot scraping. I think I saw some OneBallJay all natural wax that was supposed to be hot scraped. I never used it, but I heard it was kind of gooey. :dunno:


----------



## ifresh21 (Oct 19, 2009)

Flick Montana said:


> You want to wait for it to cool unless you're using a wax that is meant for hot scraping. I think I saw some OneBallJay all natural wax that was supposed to be hot scraped. I never used it, but I heard it was kind of gooey. :dunno:


thx I woulda just scraped it while it was still sizzling
About how long does it take to cool to scraping point? Like 30 seconds or like 2minutes or what. How do I know when?


----------



## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

Only use brushes made from the udder hair of a pygmy milking goat and collected by vestal virgins.































wtf: as soon as u put on the board...any structure you have done with cork or brushes is gone or will be gone by skating off the chair ramp and standing in the pool of shit at the lift line your clean wax job is gone.

just hot wax and hot scrap, no scrubbing...done...5 minutes...do every day or three

and for the wax job, don't drip, just touch the wax to iron then color it on like a kid using a crayola, then melt a thin layer in with the iron...hardly anything to scrap...infact i only hot scrape when doing a heavy waxing for deep cleaning purposes.


----------



## ifresh21 (Oct 19, 2009)

wrathfuldeity said:


> just hot wax and hot scrap, no scrubbing...done...5 minutes...do every day or three
> 
> and for the wax job, don't drip, just touch the wax to iron then color it on like a kid using a crayola, then melt a thin layer in with the iron...hardly anything to scrap...infact i only hot scrape when doing a heavy waxing for deep cleaning purposes.


How long do you wait before you start scraping(hot scrape)?


----------



## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

when its still warm...wax still soft but not wet, if you wait too long it cools and its just harder to scrape off


----------



## ifresh21 (Oct 19, 2009)

wrathfuldeity said:


> when its still warm...wax still soft but not wet, if you wait too long it cools and its just harder to scrape off


I see what you mean. Thx. 

After that I still need to do a regular waxing right? Where I wait like overnight for it to cool. 
Actually thats a dumb question. nm

Are some waxes better than others? Like oneballjay has some with additives. Is that worth the money?


----------



## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

dude ur too anal, how many times do u need to wax ur ass to make it soft and smooth?

no need to wax again...wax is about lubricating
just do regular waxing and clean when riding dirty shit, at the end of season or in man-made stuff....that shit is nasty

me being a cheap old geezer, i found a 5 lb of brick of red ski wax a couple years ago at the thrift store for $2 and it works fine for the warmer temps in the pnw...besides have 9 boards and a pr of skis to keep going


----------



## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

btw its more important to match the wax to temp and conditions than the brand and additives imho. if eco friendly try not to pollute the fish and infact been thinking about trying to find some home brew wax recipes for non toxic shit without teflon and ppf and ect.


----------



## MunkySpunk (Jan 7, 2009)

wrathfuldeity said:


> Only use brushes made from the udder hair of a pygmy milking goat and collected by vestal virgins.


I think someone's pulling a fast one on you if they tell you to use brushes like that. The goats don't matter, you only have to make sure the virgins collect it the hair, whatever it is.


----------

