# factory edge bevel Never Summer Proto CT



## grafta (Dec 21, 2009)

I think NS use zero on those


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## Sweet2114 (Dec 25, 2010)

grafta said:


> I think NS use zero on those


I would like to use my Proto ct as my only board as opposed to having one for park and one for all mountain. What can I bevel my base and side edges to for riding boxes but still be able to carve and ride the ice?


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## NevaSummaLuva (Apr 1, 2011)

I recently emailed Never Summer about their factory edge bevels because I am starting to do my own edge tuning. I received a fast response and they confirmed there is NO bevel when it comes from the factory. 0 degree base/ 0 degree edge on ALL their boards.


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## jdang307 (Feb 6, 2011)

Yup. Zero zero and sharp as fuck.

I took it to 1/91 and detuned the contact point ever so slightly on an Evo. Smoother transitions, smoother flat basing. No edge hold loss that I could tell.


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## lonerider (Apr 10, 2009)

jdang307 said:


> Yup. Zero zero and sharp as fuck.
> 
> I took it to 1/91 and detuned the contact point ever so slightly on an Evo. Smoother transitions, smoother flat basing. No edge hold loss that I could tell.


 I did the same (1/1 base/side bevel) to my proto Ct


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## Sweet2114 (Dec 25, 2010)

*EDGE BEVEL RECOMMENDATIONS Proto CT*

I have been riding recreationally for around the past 20 years. I consider myself a solid intermediate rider that likes to cruise the entire mountain but will spend at least a day a weak in the park hitting jumps, and boxes. Board sliding rails are not in my repertoire of tricks. Over the years I have massacred the edges on my boards myself and have had local shops do things that have or have not helped. I would greatly appreciate EDGE BEVEL RECOMMENDATIONS for my riding style on the Never Summer Proto CT. Thanks!


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## lonerider (Apr 10, 2009)

Sweet2114 said:


> I have been riding recreationally for around the past 20 years. I consider myself a solid intermediate rider that likes to cruise the entire mountain but will spend at least a day a weak in the park hitting jumps, and boxes. Board sliding rails are not in my repertoire of tricks. Over the years I have massacred the edges on my boards myself and have had local shops do things that have or have not helped. I would greatly appreciate EDGE BEVEL RECOMMENDATIONS for my riding style on the Never Summer Proto CT. Thanks!


ONE DEGREE BASE BEVEL... ONE DEGREE SIDE BEVEL ... (sometime they call it 89 degrees, but the shoptech will know what you mean by 1/1). 1/1 is the default setting 99.99% of shop use... so if you have ever had your board tuned, it is already 1/1.


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## hhaidar (Feb 1, 2011)

I will definitely cosign on lonerider and snowolf's recommendations of 1/1. This is what I use on my Proto for all mountain everything here in VT. Mellow enough to butter, hit boxes/rails etc, but still grippy enough for our ice.


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## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

I'm still riding 0/0 on my proto, but I dont hit boxes, just all-mountain and kickers. I doubt I'll change it, I know Vince has said to leave it if it works. Maybe 0/0 doesn't work on boxes, dunno.


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## triumph.man (Feb 3, 2012)

anyone know what it is standard for ride machete?


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

I detuned the tip and tail on my proto, but have left the 0/0 on the effective edges. Only have a few days on the board, but I won't be changing it anytime soon. Really enjoying the board.

I hit a few boxes but no rails. If you are into rails maybe the 1/1 is better.


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## cjcameron11 (Feb 5, 2011)

SOOOO stupid question, but is the bevel of an edge the angle it sits off the base and side wall?


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## Cr0_Reps_Smit (Jun 27, 2009)

cjcameron11 said:


> SOOOO stupid question, but is the bevel of an edge the angle it sits off the base and side wall?


you can bevel both the side and base edges separately to different or the same degrees.


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## Sweet2114 (Dec 25, 2010)

*Edge bevel tips*

Edges 101 Per Snowolf

Reposted from another thread. A basic guide to your edges and how to maintain and fine tune them.

Bevels:

First off, for a board that is going to be used for free riding and park with the exception of jibs, the ideal base bevel is 1 degree. If you ride a lot of ice and steeps where good edge hold is very important, the side edge bevel should be 88 degrees (measured from the base) this will give you an 89 degree corner which gives superior edge hold. Now keep in mind, this will make the board very edgy and unforgiving of sloppy board control on the rider`s part. But for an advanced free rider this is the way to go. Also, when riding pipe, you will want good sharp edges that hold on the vertical wall of the pipe.

For a good all around and more forgiving edge, you could go with a 1 degree base bevel and a 90 degree edge bevel that will give you a corner of 91 degrees which is very forgiving for learning on and can easily be changed to a more aggressive edge as you progress.

Now for beginners and park riders who want to jib, a 2 degree park bevel is standard and ideal. The side bevel of 88 degrees gives you the 90 degree corner edge. If you are new to jibs and want the extra safety margin, you could go with a 90 degree edge bevel and that would give you a corner of 92 degrees which would be very forgiving on rails. Doing this will make edge hold on groomers and ice very difficult so be prepared for that.

Some beginner boards come with a 3 degree bevel which is great for learning with less slamming due to edge catches, but remember these boards will easily spin out of control when trying to turn on hard pack and ice.

Within reason, you correct radical base bevels with a base grind, but every time you do that, you are loosing base material, so don`t do this anymore than necessary. Edges are a bit more forgiving, but there again, you do have a finite amount of metal to work with so keep that in mind.

Never, ever attempt to bevel an edge "freehand" especial the base edge. For a base bevel it is well worth the nominal fee to have a shop do this on a machine. You will get a much more even and precise bevel throughout the length of your board. If you want to do this yourself, you can still get a good job accomplished by buying a decent quality file guide that mounts your file in a guide that rolls along your base. While side edges are a bit easier, don`t do this "freehand" either. Buy at the very least an inexpensive edge tool that has the guide that runs along your base. Just be sure which side you are using; one side will be 88 and the other will be 90.

When filing, go in one direction with the teeth of the file and apply even, moderate pressure so you take off material evenly. As you run the file along, you will actually feel the "high spots" as they catch on the file. When you can run the file down the entire length without any significant change in the drag, you have accomplished your task.



TOGNAR TOOLWORKS Edge bevel tips for ski and snowboard


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## threej21 (Jan 2, 2011)

Cr0_Reps_Smit said:


> you can bevel both the side and base edges separately to different or the same degrees.


do you change your edges on your NS boards Cro? 

FWIW and since people are kind of asking, I didnt touch the edges on my 2011 or 2012 Revolver and I hit rails, boxes, corrugated pipes, and everything else in the park; both 50/50 and board slides and havent had a problem yet :dunno:


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## Cr0_Reps_Smit (Jun 27, 2009)

threej21 said:


> do you change your edges on your NS boards Cro?
> 
> FWIW and since people are kind of asking, I didnt touch the edges on my 2011 or 2012 Revolver and I hit rails, boxes, corrugated pipes, and everything else in the park; both 50/50 and board slides and havent had a problem yet :dunno:


normally i just ride my board as is right out of the wrapper personally other then detuning my tip and tail but usually after a while if i happen to take my board in to get a base grind or something ill have them put a 1 or 2 deg base and side bevel too.


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