# Do I need to tune my board?



## TooNice (Feb 7, 2014)

I have been riding a new board for about two weeks now. It has never been tuned or waxed outside what they do at a factory. I picked a board with an extruded base in part because I read it was low maintenance and I don't think that I need a very high performance board.

Saying that, the last two or three days I felt like my board isn't cutting as it did. There is also visible burr and some scratches at the bottom (I swear I am trying to take good care of my gear but seems like it still happens). I should note that I am still recovering from an injury so maybe that is part of the problem. Still, I am wondering if it is worth tuning a two weeks old board (keeping in mind I am planning to snowboard another 30-40 days this season).

Since I have no idea how it does and don't want to end up doing something stupid like unsharpening an edge I meant to sharpen or vice-versa I am thinking of taking it to a shop for a tune. Keeping in mind that I want to do a wide variety of things with my board though mainly riding groomed pistes, and practicing ground tricks and jumps (I might try very basic rail too but it is low priority) do I need to give specific instructions? And does my skill level affect what I should ask? Lastely, can anyone recommend a shop in Tokyo?


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## Rookie09 (Sep 5, 2012)

A lot of it comes down to personal preference. I'm not sure picky about sharp edges since I ride a lot of park and not too many steep hills so hard carving isn't as important to me. In fact, I've never had a board sharpened before because I feel like that will just make it easier to catch an edge on a box or rail. If you feel like you could use a sharper edge, go ahead and bring it to a shop. If you're going to be doing this frequently you might as well buy your own tuner since it's pretty easy and not very expensive to do yourself. Watch a couple youtube videos.

As far as waxing goes if you're interested in that, a lot of people wax their board every few times out riding. Again, personally, I'm not real picky about speed so I usually just wax my board once or twice a year. Most people probably do more, but it really comes down to personal preference.


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## ridinbend (Aug 2, 2012)

No tuning just wax it


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## TooNice (Feb 7, 2014)

Thanks. Actually it seems like there is no visible burr on the edges but just on the top of the board which I assume doesn't matter. But the scratch at the bottom can be easily felt running my fingers over. 

I suppose that one of the issue I have is that I don't know sharp from not sharp in the context of a snowboard.

For waxing I will probably learn to do it myself in due time, and perhaps tuning too. The board I am using now is one I am learning to ride now so it needs to carve when I try. But from next season it might become my park board as this board is definitely on the short of my body weight. Meaning that I may never sharpen it again (though I may whatever board I ride next).


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

I'd suggest a F# or Gb :jumping1:


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## Rookie09 (Sep 5, 2012)

If it's just been sharpened or is new and has never been detuned you should be able to cut a fingernail with the edge.


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## TooNice (Feb 7, 2014)

Hmm cut my nails recently so the test would have to wait. Is this something you could tell if you were to post a photo?

At any rate I might give it a miss. Does not seem like anyone is shouting "GET IT DONE, NOW" so I guess it is my skills and not the board. Besides, I asked around various shops about tuning just now and they all gave me a lead time of 10-14 days. I can't be without my board for this long. I did find one store offering same day premium expresss service for a extra $40 over the base rate of $40-120. Honestly not sure what they do for the high end service but it is a shop that only do tuning / maintenance / waxing so I would like to think they know how to do a good job (not that I can justify $160) for it.

Regarding waxing again shops offer a bunch of fancy services like multiple layers and some othet fancy stuff they claim make the wax last longer. The priced are generally much more reasonable $20-30. About the price of a kit minus the iron. But how long do they really last? How does it compare to waxing one self?


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## Lamps (Sep 3, 2011)

What is meant by this is that if you drag the top of your fingernail across the edge it should scrape or shave a little of the nail off. 

Unless your riding icy conditions you shouldn't need super sharp edges, and for rails and ground tricks dulled edges make it easier for these things. 

In North America you can get a belt wax overnight or hand wax for a premium also done overnight at most ski hills. You could buy a wax kit and wax yourself, easy to learn from youtube. 

Wax will make your board glide a little better in the flats. Some don't bother but I like to do it, I find it makes a difference. Wax wears off after a few days depending on the conditions.


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## Rookie09 (Sep 5, 2012)

Most likely you won't need your edges sharpened more than once every year or two unless you find your board washing out a lot. I mean, you're free to do whatever you want but it's typically not that big of a deal for the casual rider.

And thanks Lamps for clarifying the fingernail thing. I probably should've explained that better.


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## TooNice (Feb 7, 2014)

Alright, I think that I am going to take today off as my back is playing up last night when I was sleeping (I was so sure it was getting better too, and I didn't even push that hard yesterday :dry. Will make a trip to the doc now and probably pick up some parts to maintain my boards. I guess that I will want to be able to do this by myself.

I have done a bit of reading on both tuning and waxing, but I am suffering from a bit of information overload. For instance, I am not sure if the scratch I have is deep enough to warrant fixing the base (see photo). It is thick and noticeable but not deep.

I am also not sure I want temperature I should get for the waxes (I won't be snowboarding in Hokkaido this season, mainly Nagano and Niigata for those familiar with Japan). Lastly, I am not sure what is needed and what is extra when it comes to waxing. Should I perhaps get something like this? (not sure if I can do without a stand).


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## Rookie09 (Sep 5, 2012)

Don't worry about scratches like that, you'll get many of them. If you end if riding rails at all it will be hard to spend a day in the park without getting another scratch like that.


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## Ryme Exp (Aug 16, 2014)

I would recommend tuning and waxing your board after every 6 rides or so. Doesn't take long if you do it often. Buy a decent stand and a nice edge sharpener and lightly run it down both bottom and side edges a few times till you are grinding metal the whole way. A sharp edge makes a huge difference in your riding depending on your skill level. The better you get the sharper you want the edge. Detune the tip and tail then wax it with a good wax for the temps you're riding, scrap it down and go get it!

You can do custom tunes too with a few good files that maximizes the edge effectiveness depending on where it is on the board but I don't recommend doing this unless someone teaches you how to do it. Its pretty easy to slice your hand if you slip.


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## TooNice (Feb 7, 2014)

Can I get away with a mini stand or will I regret not getting a full size stand (see photos, sorry if they end up huge I am posting with my phone).


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## Jcb890 (Dec 12, 2014)

TooNice said:


> Can I get away with a mini stand or will I regret not getting a full size stand (see photos, sorry if they end up huge I am posting with my phone).


1st off - don't get too worried about scratches. Your board is going to get scratched up just about every single time out even if you take complete care of it. That scratch in your base doesn't look too bad to me. Some wax will fill it in and when the wax wears off it should still be OK and not hurt performance too much if at all. My previous board had a scratch at least as long and deep and I didn't really notice any difference before/after. If you can avoid riding over branches/rocks and not scratching the base though, that is obviously best.

2nd - I wax my own board. It isn't hard and some get a little sense of enjoyment out of it. I personally like to be able to do as much as I can on my own and it saves both money and a trip to the shop. If you have an old crappy iron, you can use that. Otherwise, you can find a cheapo iron. They make wax-specific irons which are nice and offer more control over temperature, but they're $50 vs. $5 or $10 for a cheap one. One thing I did invest in this season for waxing is a new (proper) plastic scraper and a hard nylon brush to wipe off excess wax. This way the coating of wax is very thin. Some people and videos will say to use a wire brush also, but I did not go that far.

3rd - A stand is nice, but not entirely necessary for waxing. You can basically make your own saw-horse to do it. I like to use 2 opposing metal folding chairs. Then, put something on the chair between the chair and board so it doesn't scratch - voila, now you have a make-shift table/stand to wax on. Ideally, a bench with a couple of clamps like you'll see in the Youtube videos is the best way to do it, but we don't all have that luxury.


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

I used to just use the floor, now I use a rubbermaid tote that the bindings fit inside. And don't over think this stuff. If you feel like waxing, wax! It costs next to nothing each time once you've made the initial investment. It may be a placebo effect, but an effect is an effect!

Make sure you buy a stiff bristled nylon brush something like this:










After scraping, brushing is probably the most important step in waxing.


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## TooNice (Feb 7, 2014)

Thanks. I ended up picking up a wax/iron kit for $55. That is almost half what the kit usually cost, as the iron alone costs more than that over here, but it so happens that the kit was on sale, and on top of that they only had the display model left so they let me have it for cheap including all the bits and pieces lying on display. That mean an extra bar of wax, scrapper, wax paper etc. The kit also comes with a nylon brush, so it has almost everything I needed to get started minus a base cleaner which I also bought.

I decided to get a stand in the end. It wasn't cheap, but it can also be used to hold my iron matt so that I no longer need to iron on the floor (never liked doing that - both from a position perspective and safety perspective).

Didn't have the time to wax tonight as I am going to ride early tomorrow.. but I am looking forward to getting it done after tomorrow in time for another trip the day after


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## TooNice (Feb 7, 2014)

What are the views on using a cork to polish after brushing? Overkill or might as well?


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## Rookie09 (Sep 5, 2012)

Never heard of using a cork and I don't think you want to polish the base. You want to use the brush after waxing to put a pattern of grooves in the base. This will help channel the water/snow under the board when you ride reducing drag. I think polishing the base would have the opposite effect.


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## TooNice (Feb 7, 2014)

Sorry, me again :happy:

So after painfully cleaning, applying a base wax, then using a low fluoride wax after carefully considering the temperature (and all the scrapping, brushing associated with the job) the place I went to for the past three days had the wettest, dirtiest snow I have snowboarded this season.. on top of a flog so thick I could barely see the next lift. Pity as I quite liked the resort and I am sure that with the right timing, this place could have been fantastic (it is not like I didn't enjoy it at all despite the condition).

I think that I might re-wax for next trip in two days. My question is, do I need to clean it again with a cleaning solution, re-apply both wax again, or can I just wipe it damp water and go to main wax?


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## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

TooNice said:


> What are the views on using a cork to polish after brushing? Overkill or might as well?


I believe the people who use cork are using it to apply a non hot wax, typically done slope side just before a race. The cork generates a lot of friction/heat helping the pastes penetrate. You'll be using an iron for that, way easier


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## kumimajava (Oct 11, 2011)

TooNice said:


> I think that I might re-wax for next trip in two days. My question is, do I need to clean it again with a cleaning solution, re-apply both wax again, or can I just wipe it damp water and go to main wax?


If you're riding on natural snow - as we usually are, in Japan - you'll not need to re-wax as often. So if you've only been once/twice on a fresh wax, i doubt it's time to redo it. Of course, if you enjoy the process, it certainly won't hurt.

Personally, I don't use chemical base-cleaners anymore. I bought a bottle a few years back, but I found that it really dried out the base. If I need to give the base a good clean, I just do a hot scrape, and that is enough. YMMV.

By the way, where in Niigata do you usually ride?


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## TooNice (Feb 7, 2014)

Thanks! I think I will just do that then.

For day trips, I tend to ride in Gala and Naeba. I plan to check out Kagura in March (I heard it is really good but never been there yet). With a Kanto Pass (for foreigners) with the Gala option, those places can be reached quickly via shinkansen at reasonable price if you are willing to do two or three trips over three days.

I have also been to two resorts in Myoko, including the most recent trip, and once a year I will go to a place called Cupid Valley organised by an NPO promoting cultural exchange (it is how I started snowboarding so I have a bit of a soft spot for it).


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## kumimajava (Oct 11, 2011)

TooNice said:


> Thanks! I think I will just do that then.
> 
> For day trips, I tend to ride in Gala and Naeba. I plan to check out Kagura in March (I heard it is really good but never been there yet). With a Kanto Pass (for foreigners) with the Gala option, those places can be reached quickly via shinkansen at reasonable price if you are willing to do two or three trips over three days.
> 
> I have also been to two resorts in Myoko, including the most recent trip, and once a year I will go to a place called Cupid Valley organised by an NPO promoting cultural exchange (it is how I started snowboarding so I have a bit of a soft spot for it).


I do the Gala day trip occasionally, too - works well for me, when I have the time. It's a good deal with the Kanto pass. Let me know if you're planning a trip anytime soon, and would like to catch a few chairs together. Our plans may overlap


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## TooNice (Feb 7, 2014)

Will do! Will be great to meetup with someone here  I am going to Hakuba in two days, Cupid after that, and have some non-snowboard related plans afterwards so it will probably have to be after the 10th March.


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## kumimajava (Oct 11, 2011)

TooNice said:


> Will do! Will be great to meetup with someone here  I am going to Hakuba in two days, Cupid after that, and have some non-snowboard related plans afterwards so it will probably have to be after the 10th March.


Cool, no worries - PM me whenever your plans clarify. I usually only make arrangements a few days in advance, when I see the snow forecast. :hairy: 

Enjoy Hakuba!


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

There are many DIY's on how to make a homemade stand. Use your favorite search engine.

or you can spend the money on a waxing table and stand.

All-temperature wax is fine for most conditions (except for the extreme cold).

But, for the hot-scrape you should use a warm-temp wax or base prep wax (they have lower melting temperatures and the softer wax will go deeper in the the base pores).

Chemical base cleaners: a lot of people advocate for it. I don't. I use it to clean my tools as well as spot cleaning for P-tex candle repairs.....

waxing is a lot easier than it sounds.... there are plenty of youtube videos on it.


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

TooNice said:


> I think that I might re-wax for next trip in two days. My question is, do I need to clean it again with a cleaning solution, re-apply both wax again, or can I just wipe it damp water and go to main wax?


I still think so many people overthink this. I have never bought a commercial base cleaner. Maybe because we don't have a lot of sappy roots to ride over?!? Our bases stay quite clean. If I was worried about dirt on the base, I'd use hot water with plain old dish soap in it to remove the old dirt and wax.

Otherwise, I use all temp wax a couple times a year, and brush the shit out of it. I haven't waxed my board since probably this time last year. :embarrased1:


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## honeycomb (Feb 6, 2011)

I don't even bother with the brush, the texture it leaves will be gone after a run or two down the mountain. I just wax, scrape, then buff a bit with a scotchbrite pad. I wax about every 3 times I go out, sharpen edges once or twice a year.

Every year before the season I like to do a hot scrape, sharpen the edges, clean the base with kerosene, then put on good wax.


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