# How much toe drag is too much?



## deagol

depends on how far over you get the board on edge.

The first pic makes it look worse than the 2nd one, IMO. The elevation above the board will help. 
Some people use risers to reduce toe drag, but I have never tried them. 

Like Ryan Knapton says: the better you get, the more problems with toe drag you will have.


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## MMSlasher

What kind of bindings are you using? Can us adjust the heelcup backwards, so that your toes aren't as far over the binding? For 6.5 boots, it seems like you have so much of your toe without a binding underneath.


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## freshy

That does not look that bad. Strap your boots in there and lean it over like a carve until your toes hit, that angle will be how far you can lean in a carve till your toes hit.
Curious if the heel is about the same?


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## Melodieforsure

MMSlasher said:


> What kind of bindings are you using? Can us adjust the heelcup backwards, so that your toes aren't as far over the binding? For 6.5 boots, it seems like you have so much of your toe without a binding underneath.


They're K2 Charm bindings. Should the bindings be the same size as your shoe, or at least reach the front edge of the board?


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## Melodieforsure

freshy said:


> That does not look that bad. Strap your boots in there and lean it over like a carve until your toes hit, that angle will be how far you can lean in a carve till your toes hit.
> Curious if the heel is about the same?


Thanks! See images attached! Heel vs toe.


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## BoardieK

Your bindings look similar to my K2 Formulas, you should adjust the heelcup back as far as it can go then centre the binding on the board. Your boot will end up in the same place but better fitted in the binding. Other than that the overhang looks pretty normal.


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## jerry gnarcia

If you are asking this question, your toe will not drag. It will be a long time before you can carve hard enough for that to be a potential issue.


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## chomps1211

You have got *all* toe & no heel overhang with that setup. It can be ridden like that. (...I did something similar my 1st season.) But I Don't think its the best way to go about trying to learn/progress properly! :shrug: 

You're too new for "Carving" toe drag to be an issue. _However,_ a setup like that can cause you issues with edging, leverage & learning to turn properly. Especially on ice or hardpack. 

1st,... If your bindings allow for it, adjust the heel cup back. This will bring the toe back some. Then check your bindings mounting discs to make sure you cant adjust them back more towards the heel as well. Most discs have a series of mounting holes to allow for some heel/toe adjustment when mounting. 

Finally,... And I'm _embarrassed_ and _ashamed_ of all you long time shredders who failed to notice or comment.... :embarrased1:>

*...The OP's Binding Angles!!!* :blink: :facepalm3:
From those pics It looks to me as tho the OP has those set at *0°!!* 

Along with everything else, You are going to want to Adjust your binding angles to something more than just running staight across the boards waist @ 0°/0°!! _Ducked_ is generally most common, but you can also run forward angles. A lot of dedicated carvers do. Either of those will have the effect of sucking your boots toe in towards the boards edge! 

Post sum moar pics & let us kno how the setup looks after doing all that. :grin:


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## Rip154

Strap your feet in like you would when riding, then check. It doesn't look right on the pics. Looks like it could be adjusted some towards the heel, but the overhang shouldn't be bad if you get it centered.

Don't be afraid to try carving, even if these guys make it sound like rocket science


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## freshy

Melodieforsure said:


> Thanks! See images attached! Heel vs toe.


I should have mentioned that your foot should be centered on your board, your boot should give a fairly accurate representation of your foot.


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## drblast

In summary:

1. The equipment you have looks fine and drag shouldn't be a problem for you at all.
2. It looks like your binding is mounted with no angle at all, which is not how you're going to want to ride. You probably want to start with a +/- 12 or 15 degree stance like this \ /
3. It looks like your boots aren't centered on the board side-to-side. Increasing the binding angle to what it should be when you're riding (see #2 ) might change this a bit, but you'll also likely need to move the bindings about a cm toward the heel side of the board so you have equal amounts of heel and toe overhang.

Finally, the overhang is only important when the board is on edge. Flip the board on edge on a carpeted floor and see how much angle there is before the heel or toe hits the floor. You'll be surprised how far the board can tilt before that happens, and you probably won't hit that point when you're actually riding. And in soft snow it's not even that big a deal if it does happen.


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## Melodieforsure

Thank you, everyone! I really appreciate this feedback. I feel like I should've just gone with a wider board in the first place to avoid this issue. You live and you learn, I guess. 

It looks like the K2 Charm bindings I was given are for women's sizes 3 - 6. As I am a 6.5, I will need to get some medium bindings. Any idea on what bindings would be the best bet since this is a narrower board? 

Ah it won't let me add links to my post, but I looked at these two options:
- Union Rosa Women's Bindings - Medium
- K2 Hue Women's Bindings - Medium


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## Melodieforsure

chomps1211 said:


> You have got *all* toe & no heel overhang with that setup. It can be ridden like that. (...I did something similar my 1st season.) But I Don't think its the best way to go about trying to learn/progress properly! :shrug:
> 
> You're too new for "Carving" toe drag to be an issue. _However,_ a setup like that can cause you issues with edging, leverage & learning to turn properly. Especially on ice or hardpack.
> 
> 1st,... If your bindings allow for it, adjust the heel cup back. This will bring the toe back some. Then check your bindings mounting discs to make sure you cant adjust them back more towards the heel as well. Most discs have a series of mounting holes to allow for some heel/toe adjustment when mounting.
> 
> Finally,... And I'm _embarrassed_ and _ashamed_ of all you long time shredders who failed to notice or comment.... :embarrased1:>
> 
> *...The OP's Binding Angles!!!* :blink: :facepalm3:
> From those pics It looks to me as tho the OP has those set at *0°!!*
> 
> Along with everything else, You are going to want to Adjust your binding angles to something more than just running staight across the boards waist @ 0°/0°!! _Ducked_ is generally most common, but you can also run forward angles. A lot of dedicated carvers do. Either of those will have the effect of sucking your boots toe in towards the boards edge!
> 
> Post sum moar pics & let us kno how the setup looks after doing all that. :grin:


Really appreciate this feedback! These current bindings are cheap, not my foot size I learned, and unadjustable! Looking at getting new bindings right now. I tested out some other bindings today that looks like it would reduce the amount of toe overhang. Do you think 1.5 cm or so of overhang would mess up my learning/progression?

Good to know about the foot angles!! I didn't know ducked was a thing! Learning more than ever with all the mishaps I've been having trying to get my first setup...


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## Kenai

Melodieforsure said:


> Thank you, everyone! I really appreciate this feedback. I feel like I should've just gone with a wider board in the first place to avoid this issue. You live and you learn, I guess.
> 
> It looks like the K2 Charm bindings I was given are for women's sizes 3 - 6. As I am a 6.5, I will need to get some medium bindings. Any idea on what bindings would be the best bet since this is a narrower board?
> 
> Ah it won't let me add links to my post, but I looked at these two options:
> - Union Rosa Women's Bindings - Medium
> - K2 Hue Women's Bindings - Medium


It is not immediately apparent from those pictures that your boots are too big for the bindings (if you can fix the alignment issues other people have mentioned). A lot of boots have some degree of footprint reduction so a size 6.5 might be equivalent to a 6 or 5.5. Do the boots fit fine down onto the footbed (i.e. the soles of the boot don't rest on the raised edge of the binding)? Do the straps have enough length to grab the buckle and tighten down?

As you've posted a few pictures already, maybe just post one from above the board looking down at the mounted binding (front or back) so we can see how you have binding set up now.

Also, definitely don't worry about the width of the board. Your boots are absolutely not too big for the board - not even close. Women's 6.5 is 235mm. That board is a minimum of 232mm waist width at 138, it is 238 at 151. I'm guessing you are somewhere in that size range. But you are not riding right in the middle - where the bindings mount is even wider! (Most guys have feet somewhere in the 270mm range - that's still only a size 9 - and most boards are waist width between 250 and 260 so you can see you have nothing to worry about.) Seriously, that is not remotely something to be concerned about.

EDIT: I see you posted again while I was writing. If you want to get new bindings, knock yourself out. Spending money is what keeps the sport going! Just make sure you need to do it...unless you want to do it.


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## chomps1211

Melodieforsure said:


> Really appreciate this feedback! These current bindings are cheap, *not my foot size I learned, and unadjustable! *Looking at getting new bindings right now. I tested out some other bindings today that looks like it would reduce the amount of toe overhang. Do you think 1.5 cm or so of overhang would mess up my learning/progression?
> 
> Good to know about the foot angles!! I didn't know ducked was a thing! Learning more than ever with all the mishaps I've been having trying to get my first setup...


Not all bindings are adjustable in that fashion. For example, Most Burton bindings are a one piece frame and you can't adjust the heelcup at all. In these cases, *all* the heel/toe adjustment is done with the screw holes in the mounting discs. Centered is ideal,.. but Sometimes all you can do is get as close as possible to centered. :shrug:

Just the way some board/boot/binders combos are. As I said,.. I rode with a lot of extra heel overhang for several seasons due to adjustability issues with my Cartels. I managed ok!  :laugh: Don't sweat it too terribly much. 

But as was mentioned,... it *never* hurts to get new gear! :lol:

This link might help you to understand binding angles and such a little better...

WHAT BINDING ANGLES SHOULD I USE?


-edit-
Here's another link from that site on mounting bindings. You might find it helpful. 
*MOUNTING BINDINGS*


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