# Will Small Nipples Effect My Ride?



## jgsqueak (Mar 9, 2010)

Just don't get you base stone ground (or belt for that matter) too often. Every time you get a full tune, those little "nipples" will take a lot of the pressure and get ground down faster than the rest of the base. Other thatn that, if they are not too large, it shouldn't affect the overall ride of the board...but waxing will take you a little longer now cause it won't scrap as easily.


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## RickyBobby (Dec 18, 2009)

The screws are not the problem. Could you feel the bumps from the screws? Sometimes it looks like like bumps(nipples?) are there, but you can't feel them. If this is case it is temperature differences making what looks like bumps. 

If you can feel them, no big deal. Just back off the screws a bit after riding and they should go away. JUST DON'T FORGET TO RE-TIGHTEN SCREWS BEFORE RIDING AGAIN!



RB


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## Deviant (Dec 22, 2009)

Ok...

The reason people fix bad gouges in their bases with Ptex is because it affects the ride and affects the core. Would something on the bottom of the board affect the ride since that's the part touching the snow? Would a bump on the bottom of your foot affect walking? The answer is YES. It may not be a really noticable difference, so just ride it, but obviously anything not level on the base will affect riding to some degree.

The screws fit into the board, not the bindings, the inserts are the specific thread, so yes you should've used the correct screws. At least you didn't strip out the threads in the inserts, so look on the bright side, you can still ride it. If it really is exactly same length and same thread, you may have just tightened them down too much. Back them off, leave it, and tighten it down to a reasonable level before you ride next time.

Off topic a little: I recently talked to the dumbest snowboard instructor in the world last week regarding something similar. He's riding an X8 and as I was walking to the lodge he stopped me and asked if my base came with bumps in it. I told him no, my base is flat. He said "Feel this...". Where his screws were there were nipples. He then blamed it on the channel and said it must be that coming through his board. He also used a drill to tighten them down. I just shook my head and walked away.


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## RickyBobby (Dec 18, 2009)

But poster indicated they used correct size screws as Arbor recommends. So, maybe screws too tight? I really crank mine down, but only with screwdriver, not drill.


RB


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## Guest (Mar 12, 2010)

RickyBobby said:


> But poster indicated they used correct size screws as Arbor recommends. So, maybe screws too tight? I really crank mine down, but only with screwdriver, not drill.
> 
> 
> RB


EXACTLY! Arbor rep pointed finger at Burton but then I measured screws and confirmed the screws I used were the right size. So if the screws were the right size, is it possible that I over-tightened the screws? If the screws were the right size and it's not from over-tightening, then why would it happen?

The bumps are very slightly raised and I can't imagine they're going to make a dramatic impact on performance....especially since I'm a noob. I probably won't even notice. Just wondering if it's something I did or if it's a defect in the board.


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## ChuChu (Dec 28, 2009)

It's not the end of the world. I ride with a girl who made the same mistake and she just changed out the screws for ones that fit her board properly. She can keep up on the flats and everything np so I don't think it's affected her ride much. To be honest the bumps seem to have mellowed out/flattened a bit over time.

Of course you will get laughed at (which you deserve) whenever someone notices them on your board. :laugh:


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## RickyBobby (Dec 18, 2009)

If you can feel the bumps, then one base grind should fix that. 

RB


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## legallyillegal (Oct 6, 2008)

and next time you buy a board, remember which company basically told you to buy a different brand's board


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## Bubalouie (Mar 6, 2010)

Keep in mind, the board mfg usually doesn't specify how long the screws should be, just the thread size. Some binding plates are much thicker than others, therefore deeming a longer or shorter screw, but the same thread sized.

This seems like a lot of discussion for something this simple. Get new screws that are shorter so that you can hand tighten them without pushing the base material down.

nikiddawk: I am not saying you have done anything more wrong than use the wrong length screw, then you did the right thing by coming here and asking. You can usually go to any boardshop and they will replace them for nothing.

Keep in mind that if you do ride it this way and hit something like a box or scrape on a rock, you could easily rip a sizable nipple from the bottom of your board.

--buba


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## RickyBobby (Dec 18, 2009)

But Burton bindings seem to have some of the thickest baseplates. Which means effective length of screw is shorter compared to thin baseplate.


RB


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## Guest (Mar 13, 2010)

RickyBobby said:


> But Burton bindings seem to have some of the thickest baseplates. Which means effective length of screw is shorter compared to thin baseplate.
> 
> 
> RB


Also - I added the 2mm rubber gasket which means the effective screw length is even shorter. So doesn't this mean the screw hole on the board wasn't as deep as it's supposed to be?


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## rasmasyean (Jan 26, 2008)

That's a piece of crap board. Normally when you bottom out the screw, it shouldn't go any furthur because it will hit the bottom of a steel cap. And thus you would have to screw it really really hard to break that cap. I don't think you can do this by hand without being a dork. When this happens, normally your binding is loose. And you (or the ski shop guy) tightens it as hard as he can until it can't go. It doesn't hold? Use a washer. If that doesn't work, then maybe you need another screw.

That's the manufacturer's fault for using crap/defective components on the board.

If they don't warrantee it, then don't buy another one from them. You can fix it yourself by having it stone ground. Don't worry about "wearing out" your board. You aren't gonna keep a board long enough to wear it out that much with periodic grinds, never mind one time.


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## Guest (Mar 13, 2010)

legallyillegal said:


> and next time you buy a board, remember which company basically told you to buy a different brand's board


Huh? Do you mean which company told me to buy a different brand's binding? If so, I wasn't aware that Arbor made bindings for their boards. :dunno:

*As for Arbor standing behind their boards and honoring a warranty*-
Here's what the Arbor warranty guy emailed me when I asked him about this:

"There is no other reason. This is a case of using the wrong equipment on
the wrong board. You need to talk to the person who sold you the bindings.
I'm sorry there is nothing I can do for you."

I have some thoughts on that:
Even if that were the case, that I used the wrong screws on the board, then there should be a warning sticker on the board itself stating that you should only use standard binding screws or you should avoid certain brand's bindings because they're not compatible. *In fact, the rep said that this "always happens with Burton bindings"*. If that warning were there or it said "DO NOT USE BURTON BINDINGS" and I disregarded it then I could understand them blaming it on human error - me - for ignoring a warning and using the wrong length screws for this particular board. 

*But that's not the case here.* I measured the screws that came with the burton bindings and they are STANDARD size as recommended by Arbor. It is NOT the case of using the "wrong equipment on the wrong board". So again....I'm more and more of the belief that Arbor should be replacing this board. 

It's a shame because I researched this board pretty solidly and didn't find anything anywhere saying that Arbor didn't stand behind their products...in fact, just the opposite. I figured that since they have a two year warranty and most others just have a one year that it was a solid company customer service-wise.


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## Bubalouie (Mar 6, 2010)

Sounds like a good reason to buy a Salomon, K2 or Never Summer product and get rid of this one.

--buba


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## Triple8Sol (Nov 24, 2008)

Sounds like you forced the screws in pretty hard by hand too. You should've felt them bottoming out as you screwed it down.


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## rasmasyean (Jan 26, 2008)

Triple8Sol said:


> Sounds like you forced the screws in pretty hard by hand too. You should've felt them bottoming out as you screwed it down.


I just tried it on a 5 year old Lib Tech and a 2010 Lib Tech and when I was demoing a Ride, the rental shopie who musta been like 250 lbs was tightening my bindings onto the board to try to get rid of the "loosness". He couldn't get it to hold so he put washers on them.

When you look down the hole, it should be metal. I think it's one piece. No way are you going to break them, imo. You will likely damage the wood that holds it first.

Moral of the story...it's prolly the board. It's either defective or they used cheap parts in China or some crap. Just learn from it and be careful not to do it with those brands...or just don't buy that brand anymore. Either that or they made the board so thin to be "light" that there's no room for a thick steel cap. In which case you have to consider this next time.


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## Guest (Mar 15, 2010)

rasmasyean said:


> I just tried it on a 5 year old Lib Tech and a 2010 Lib Tech and when I was demoing a Ride, the rental shopie who musta been like 250 lbs was tightening my bindings onto the board to try to get rid of the "loosness". He couldn't get it to hold so he put washers on them.
> 
> When you look down the hole, it should be metal. I think it's one piece. No way are you going to break them, imo. You will likely damage the wood that holds it first.
> 
> Moral of the story...it's prolly the board. It's either defective or they used cheap parts in China or some crap. Just learn from it and be careful not to do it with those brands...or just don't buy that brand anymore. Either that or they made the board so thin to be "light" that there's no room for a thick steel cap. In which case you have to consider this next time.


Yeah, I think you're right about that one. For my next board, I'll invest more. The arbor formula is most definitely a nice looking board, even with the little bumps on the bottom but I'm not so sure you'd call it a QUALITY board based on this situation. The good thing is it only cost about $220 and is fun to ride.


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## ChuChu (Dec 28, 2009)

rasmasyean said:


> I just tried it on a 5 year old Lib Tech and a 2010 Lib Tech and when I was demoing a Ride, the rental shopie who musta been like 250 lbs was tightening my bindings onto the board to try to get rid of the "loosness". He couldn't get it to hold so he put washers on them.
> 
> When you look down the hole, it should be metal. I think it's one piece. No way are you going to break them, imo. You will likely damage the wood that holds it first.
> 
> Moral of the story...it's prolly the board. It's either defective or they used cheap parts in China or some crap. Just learn from it and be careful not to do it with those brands...or just don't buy that brand anymore. Either that or they made the board so thin to be "light" that there's no room for a thick steel cap. In which case you have to consider this next time.


My friend who has this issue did it herself to her Ride board with her little girlie arms. Her board is older though and likely one of the lower end models so that could explain how she could "drill" through it.


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