# Binding help!



## alex is w0rd (Aug 26, 2008)

i have burton P1 bindings, and a size 11 boot. 

help me with my bindings? i sorta winged it in the beginning of the season, and i sorta realize that i might have them wrong. 

if anyone has burtons, with the same size boots, can you tell me how and to what settings the bindings should be? i ride +15 and -12 or 13, whatever it is. and if not..

is it true the high backs should be parallel with the heel edge?
and should i have them set back or forward at all?


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## arsenic0 (Nov 11, 2008)

alex is w0rd said:


> i have burton P1 bindings, and a size 11 boot.
> 
> help me with my bindings? i sorta winged it in the beginning of the season, and i sorta realize that i might have them wrong.
> 
> ...



First off your riding angles and stance are more personal preference, general rule for width is shoulder width from center-center of bindings. Stance is all personal preference although if you want to ride switch having similar + and - angles helps.
You can but dont have to move your highbacks parallel, a lot of people like it more, some hate it..try it and see if it makes a difference for you.
For your positioning place your boots in your bindings without your feet in them, and move the binding up and down to get your toe and heel to have approximately the same amount of overhang. You dont need to be precise just eyeball it, for my SL-R i with my boots i actually had to move my bindings as high(thus moving my bindings towards my heel edge more) as my baseplate would let me to get the boot centered over the board properly.


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## alex is w0rd (Aug 26, 2008)

Thanks, that sorta helped. alot of people say parallel high backs are better so i guess ill have to try it out. and ill go put my boot in and see if its centered


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## baldylox (Dec 27, 2007)

The highbacks are pretty easy to slide over but they are a pain in the ass to flip up and down like that. Also, if you're new to the P1, make sure you get plenty of those screws and plastic pieces that connect the highback and check them often cause they constantly come loose.


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## Guest (Feb 10, 2009)

I have P1.
I made a lot of adjustments...gas pedals, toe caps, ankle straps and high backs.
I worked on them for couple of hours...with only the boots and strapping in completely.
After riding(learning to be more specific) a couple of seasons in some ancient SIMS bindings...riding P1s it was heavenly...it still is.

So work on them.

Be safe out there.


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## alex is w0rd (Aug 26, 2008)

i just took a look at mine, and my boots are pretty much in the center of the board the way i have them set now, any recommendations on high back position?


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## markee (Jan 1, 2009)

Do you mean rotating it or adjusting forward lean?

Forward Lean: More forward lean = more responsive heelside turns, less = better tweakability and more forgiveness in the park.

Highback Rotation: Higback rotation so that the highbacks are parallel to your edge supposedly provides power transfer and better tweakability as well, but to some people (me NOT included), it just hurts their calves. Test this one out.


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## baldylox (Dec 27, 2007)

If you have heel edge chatter problems while carving it is a good idea to set your rear highback one setting more aggressive than the front. IE: Front to 2 , rear to 3 or front to 3 rear to 4.


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## alex is w0rd (Aug 26, 2008)

nah, i dont have an issue with forward lean. i guess ill just test out the highback rotation.

and one more thing, this a hypothetical question, but is it better to have my heel hanging off the board more? or my toe. i know it should be centered, but what would be better, more heel hang or toe hang?


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## baldylox (Dec 27, 2007)

It's easier to recover from toe-out.


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## alex is w0rd (Aug 26, 2008)

thanks alot, cuz i think theres slightly more toe hang than heel hang, but not enough to need to shift them back.


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