# Highback Angle/Lean - What's Your Preference?



## Jcb890

*Highback Lean - What's Your Preference?*

Just as the title says, what angle/lean do you use for the highbacks on your bindings?

What is the best setting for Carving / All-Mountain?

I've always ridden them with no lean/90* angle, but am toying with the idea of adding a bit of forward lean to see if it helps with carving. I'm curious what people's thoughts are on this.


----------



## Mig Fullbag

It helps a lot! You just need to find what works best for you and your stance. Trick is to increase forward lean gradually one notch at a time until you find what angle is the most effective for your carving without being uncomfortable.

My angles vary between 24° to 30° on the front foot, and 3° to 9° on the rear foot, depending on which board I'm riding. But I always rotate the front hi-back so it is as close to parallel with the heel edge as I can get it, and run one more notch of forward lean on the rear hi-back than the front one. That's what feels best for me for carving.


----------



## Jcb890

Mig Fullbag said:


> It helps a lot! You just need to find what works best for you and your stance. Trick is to increase forward lean gradually one notch at a time until you find what angle is the most effective for your carving without being uncomfortable.
> 
> My angles vary between 24° to 30° on the front foot, and 3° to 9° on the rear foot, depending on which board I'm riding. But I always rotate the front hi-back so it is as close to parallel with the heel edge as I can get it, and run one more notch of forward lean on the rear hi-back than the front one. That's what feels best for me for carving.


Thanks for the reply Mig. I currently have both of my highbacks rotated to be as close to flush with the heel edge as possible. I was thinking of going to the 1st notch on each of the highbacks to lean them both forward a bit, but perhaps I should go 2 notches on the front (left) and 1 notch on the rear (right)?


----------



## Mig Fullbag

Jcb890 said:


> Thanks for the reply Mig. I currently have both of my highbacks rotated to be as close to flush with the heel edge as possible. I was thinking of going to the 1st notch on each of the highbacks to lean them both forward a bit, but perhaps I should go 2 notches on the front (left) and 1 notch on the rear (right)?


I ride with one more notch on my rear one because of my stance and position when I ride. I always bend the rear knee a little more than my front one. So adding that notch on the back makes the transition from toeside to heelside more natural. It keeps me from extending my rear leg to come in contact with the rear hi-back. Both my legs come in contact with the hi-backs at the same time.

On most bindings, adjusting forward lean is done pretty easily and quickly, so experimenting on hill and changing it between each run will probably be the best thing. If you have always ridden without forward lean, I would start with 1 notch on each binding and go from there.

Are you riding a symetrical duck stance (+15 -15), or with a slight front bias (+18 -6) or both positive like me?


----------



## 24WERD

angle of the bindings or the highback lean (not highback rotation)?

the highback lean is not set in stone and should depends on conditions as well as if you need to bend knees.

some bindings like old Burton Cartels and Union Trice has forward lean at the upmost position already.

riding powder you want to take off the forward lean as u don't want it to dig in.

riding pipe u want forward lean

jibbing no forward lean

mt crude and choppy terrian mixed somewhat forward lean , more on the front then back.

no lean is more relaxed, just bend ur knees.


----------



## WasabiCanuck

I need to start messing with this too. It can be a bit painful if you crank them too far. My bindings are so old and shitty, they might explode if start messing with this. I should probably wait until I have new bindings. :frown:


----------



## Jcb890

Mig Fullbag said:


> I ride with one more notch on my rear one because of my stance and position when I ride. I always bend the rear knee a little more than my front one. So adding that notch on the back makes the transition from toeside to heelside more natural. It keeps me from extending my rear leg to come in contact with the rear hi-back. Both my legs come in contact with the hi-backs at the same time.
> 
> On most bindings, adjusting forward lean is done pretty easily and quickly, so experimenting on hill and changing it between each run will probably be the best thing. If you have always ridden without forward lean, I would start with 1 notch on each binding and go from there.
> 
> Are you riding a symetrical duck stance (+15 -15), or with a slight front bias (+18 -6) or both positive like me?


I've got a set of Union Factory bindings and they're pretty easy to change the highbacks on the fly, so I was planning to do that and see how it felt after a run or 2 on different settings. I guess I'm not entirely sure which knee I bent more when riding... is there a good way to tell other than someone video taping you and watching yourself ride?

I do notice that sometimes (mostly when on flat ground) if I lose my balance a bit, it tends to be backwards towards my heel side and I'll try and straighten my front (left) leg out to try and balance myself and I know that isn't good for my knee (locking it out). I'm wondering if a little forward lean will help with this also.

Yeah, I've always ridden with no forward lean, never messed around with it, always just left it. It actually wasn't until last year that I messed around much with my stance either. I always rode typical-ish duck stance (+15 -9) with not a very wide stance. Last season I switched my stance up entirely, widening my stance and I also changed my bindings to be both positive and forward-facing. I feel like this gives me more confidence and stability when carving and at speed. My current binding settings are +21 +6.


----------



## Jcb890

24WERD said:


> angle of the bindings or the highback lean (not highback rotation)?
> 
> the highback lean is not set in stone and should depends on conditions as well as if you need to bend knees.
> 
> some bindings like old Burton Cartels and Union Trice has forward lean at the upmost position already.
> 
> riding powder you want to take off the forward lean as u don't want it to dig in.
> 
> riding pipe u want forward lean
> 
> jibbing no forward lean
> 
> mt crude and choppy terrian mixed somewhat forward lean , more on the front then back.
> 
> no lean is more relaxed, just bend ur knees.


I edited the title to say lean. I believe that perpendicular to the heelside is the correct setting for the highbacks in that regard. At least that's what I have seen/read mostly.

As I said in the original post, I am asking in regards to setting things up for carving / all-mountain riding. I don't do any pipe and I'm not doing any jibbing... I'm curious about what is best for riding hard, carving, digging trenches in the snow. Being on the East Coast, I don't get to ride powder much at all, normally it is groomed and often times hard-pack.


----------



## Mig Fullbag

Jcb890 said:


> I've got a set of Union Factory bindings and they're pretty easy to change the highbacks on the fly, so I was planning to do that and see how it felt after a run or 2 on different settings. I guess I'm not entirely sure which knee I bent more when riding... is there a good way to tell other than someone video taping you and watching yourself ride?


I just noticed it naturally, without watching myself. And I confirmed it when I played a bit more with forward lean.



Jcb890 said:


> I do notice that sometimes (mostly when on flat ground) if I lose my balance a bit, it tends to be backwards towards my heel side and I'll try and straighten my front (left) leg out to try and balance myself and I know that isn't good for my knee (locking it out). I'm wondering if a little forward lean will help with this also.


The lack of forward lean could be part of what makes you loose your balance. The forward lean forces you to keep your knees a little more bent to absorb terrain and makes the board react faster when needed.



Jcb890 said:


> Yeah, I've always ridden with no forward lean, never messed around with it, always just left it. It actually wasn't until last year that I messed around much with my stance either. I always rode typical-ish duck stance (+15 -9) with not a very wide stance. Last season I switched my stance up entirely, widening my stance and I also changed my bindings to be both positive and forward-facing. I feel like this gives me more confidence and stability when carving and at speed. My current binding settings are +21 +6.


Then I would increase the forward lean by one notch on each binding until you feel it is too much on either the front of rear foot, or both feet at the same time. Then back off one notch on which ever foot feels like too much, or back off both if the limit is reached on both feet at the same time.


----------



## Jcb890

Mig Fullbag said:


> I just noticed it naturally, without watching myself. And I confirmed it when I played a bit more with forward lean.
> 
> The lack of forward lean could be part of what makes you loose your balance. The forward lean forces you to keep your knees a little more bent to absorb terrain and makes the board react faster when needed.
> 
> Then I would increase the forward lean by one notch on each binding until you feel it is too much on either the front of rear foot, or both feet at the same time. Then back off one notch on which ever foot feels like too much, or back off both if the limit is reached on both feet at the same time.


Great tips, thanks! This may be a dumb question, but what should I be looking for to determine when the lean is "too much"? General uncomfortability or making my riding worse?


----------



## linvillegorge

My stance is always +18/-12, but forward lean varies. On a softer board, I like very little or no forward lean. I like a little forward lean on a more aggressive board.


----------



## F1EA

Stance angles are : are +18 -9
I have used +21 -6 and it works, but i get a little bit more edge response with the 18.

Tried fwd angles... carving is way better, but rear knee feels some strain and jumping/landing feels sketchy on the knee.

I use fwd lean. A couple of notches. Usualy just match the lean in the boots... i set it back to about 1 notch less lean on powder.


----------



## Argo

Lean on high backs is pretty much maxed out on my flows. Bindings stance angles are 15 and -9 sometime 18 and -9 or 15 and -6.


----------



## Mig Fullbag

Jcb890 said:


> Great tips, thanks! This may be a dumb question, but what should I be looking for to determine when the lean is "too much"? General uncomfortability or making my riding worse?


Could be several things like too much pressure on lower calf from the hi-back or too much bend in the knees making riding always crouched uncomfortable for your thigh or calf muscles. When I put to much forward lean on my rear foot, my toes get crushed against the tip of my boot on heelside turns. As if the leverage on my lower calf was too much and pushed my foot forward, no matter how tight my boot or anklestrap is. That only happens on very hard snow.


----------



## Jcb890

Mig Fullbag said:


> Could be several things like too much pressure on lower calf from the hi-back or too much bend in the knees making riding always crouched uncomfortable for your thigh or calf muscles. When I put to much forward lean on my rear foot, my toes get crushed against the tip of my boot on heelside turns. As if the leverage on my lower calf was too much and pushed my foot forward, no matter how tight my boot or anklestrap is. That only happens on very hard snow.


With minimal real snow so far, that's basically what I've been on so far this season - very hard snow.

Next time out I'm going to mess around with my forward lean some and report back.

As my riding has progressed a little more, I have been thinking about changing around my stance as well, but not sure if I'm just looking to tinker for the sake of tinkering.


----------



## linvillegorge

Trying different stance widths and angles and forward lean is quick and easy. No reason not to play around with it until you get it dialed in. Just remember to only change one variable at a time. Don't widen your stance, duck it out more, and add forward lean all at the same time.


----------



## Mig Fullbag

linvillegorge said:


> Trying different stance widths and angles and forward lean is quick and easy. No reason not to play around with it until you get it dialed in. Just remember to only change one variable at a time. Don't widen your stance, duck it out more, and add forward lean all at the same time.


That's exactly what I was going to post... :smile:


----------



## Jcb890

linvillegorge said:


> Trying different stance widths and angles and forward lean is quick and easy. No reason not to play around with it until you get it dialed in. Just remember to only change one variable at a time. Don't widen your stance, duck it out more, and add forward lean all at the same time.


Common sense, but yeah, of course - one thing at a time. Otherwise, you won't know which change helped/hurt.


----------



## psklt

Usually always at +18/-6, 23.5" wide, and F1 forward lean. This is across all of my boards from pow to softer twin. Used to always be at F2, but my new boots have some lean to them as they get tightened. Also used to rotate my Union highbacks, but I've put them back to normal and seem to like it better.
Like has already been said, more forward lean is good for hard carving and aggressive riding aimed at harder snow conditions. Softer snow and pow or jibbing you'll probably want to dial back to 0 or 1. I'm pretty much always at 1 on the binding and combined with my boot it feels like F2 overall.
If you crank it up to much you might feel some calf bite from your highback or cramping under your arch/ball of foot which can be pretty unpleasant. Just try a different setting on each run, you should feel the differences pretty quickly. At the end of the day it's all about what feels most comfortable to you.


----------



## Phedder

Burton bindings here, I use F3 or F4 for freeriding/carving, dial it back 1 for powder, and F1 for any freestyle.


----------



## pointblank

I cranked my forward lean cranked to F5/F6 on my Cartels and it felt ok so I never bothered to readjust it afterwards.


----------



## chomps1211

Great topic! When I was learning to ride on the _wide_, cambered Arbor. I needed a TON of forward lean on my L Cartel's to have any feeling of control! (_…you all know the story, No Nuthing sales person sells a Wide board to the ignorant NooB in a 10.5 boot!_) :facepalm3:

This thread got me to thinking tho,.. after I got riding the Arbor dialed in, I have gone with the same extreme Highback FWD lean on both my reg width boards as well!

Now I am aware that my problems with washing out on heelside carves & scarves is likely a technique problem, but could too much fwd lean make that more likely as well?

I was having some difficulty today with my transitions from toe to heel feeling very sketchy.  And I'm riding some of the best snow I've seen in 20 months!!  

Some of this I attribute to a combination of "Flat Light" vertigo as well as being fairly rusty still after so much time away from riding! But I've ridden in flat light before without this much balance & turning trouble. Shit, last night I slammed HARD after scorp'ing a switch tail roll 180! I got up looking like a Fat Old POWdered Doughnut!! :laugh:

…Hell!! Maybe I've got a _Too_muh!!! :blink:







(…then again, maybe I just SUCK!!)  :rofl3:


----------



## Martyc

Zero, I even take the adjusters off


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Jcb890

So I took people's suggestions and tried it both at the 1st click down on both bindings and then the 2nd click down on both bindings. Unfortunately I only had the time to do 1 run with each setting. I'm not sure if I noticed any difference to be completely honest. Currently they are both left on the 2nd click of forward lean, so I'll give that a shot next time out again and see how it feels with more use.


----------



## F1EA

Jcb890 said:


> So I took people's suggestions and tried it both at the 1st click down on both bindings and then the 2nd click down on both bindings. Unfortunately I only had the time to do 1 run with each setting. I'm not sure if I noticed any difference to be completely honest. Currently they are both left on the 2nd click of forward lean, so I'll give that a shot next time out again and see how it feels with more use.


I doubt you would notice a 1 click difference...
Try 4 clicks, if too much dial 1 back at a time until it feels ok.

Or go with 2 clicks and get used to it. Then set it up to 4 clicks and see if it feels annoying, if it does try 3 clicks... and so on.

I go 4 clicks on Burton genesis and about 2 clicks on everything else (Now, Ride, other Burton bindings etc). Burton are true 0 or so to start with; Now are not standard at 0, they start with some lean already.

Fwd lean only sucks when you're super tired and just want to coast down and chill...... a lot of lean doesn't really let you. I guess thats good cause it keeps riding on top of it... when you're tired and relax is when some ppl fall and eat it. Oh it also sucks on boxes/rails etc.

I also dial it 1 or 2 clicks back when in powder.


----------



## Psicko

A few weeks ago I bought some Rome 390 Boss bindings. These are my first bindings with forward lean. Previously I've had a pair of reaaallly old burton custom bindings probably from late 90s to early 2000's. If they do have a forward lean, I don't know how to change it. 

Anyways, For my Rome Bindings I only have it set one click forward. I have no problem turning from/to either side. I mostly do some all mountain, playing in the tree line with natural kickers and low drops, as well as small jumps in the park and just starting to play around in boxes. It feels good all around to me.


----------



## F1EA

Psicko said:


> A few weeks ago I bought some Rome 390 Boss bindings. These are my first bindings with forward lean. Previously I've had a pair of reaaallly old burton custom bindings probably from late 90s to early 2000's. If they do have a forward lean, I don't know how to change it.
> 
> Anyways, For my Rome Bindings I only have it set one click forward. I have no problem turning from/to either side. I mostly do some all mountain, playing in the tree line with natural kickers and low drops, as well as small jumps in the park and just starting to play around in boxes. It feels good all around to me.


Yep.
Fwd lean is not something you need, but more something you like or not. You'll be able to ride either way. That's why adding or removing 1 click is barely noticeable. But once you get used to having fwd lean, taking it off is noticeable. I dial it back in powder and it feels nicer.

Also, on rockered boards it makes little difference, if any.


----------



## timmytard

F1EA said:


> Yep.
> Fwd lean is not something you need, but more something you like or not. You'll be able to ride either way. That's why adding or removing 1 click is barely noticeable. But once you get used to having fwd lean, taking it off is noticeable. I dial it back in powder and it feels nicer.
> 
> Also, on rockered boards it makes little difference, if any.


It's the same, rocker or no rocker.

It has to do with the amount power you can get in a heel side carve.

In order to do a high G deep ass trench, you need that forward lean in your highback,

Without it, you are relying SOLELY on your ankle muscles & the stiffness of your boots.

You/The Hulk/myself aren't going to be able to pull out a high G heel side carve using only our ankles.

High backs enable you to transfer all that force, to the strongest muscles in our body.
Your quads.

You can crank em out to the point where your quads can't even hold the force of all the G's.

If your quads can't take that force, what do you think the chances your ankles are stronger?


TT


I like mine cranked:grin:


----------



## januse1

I'm just on my second season of riding so i dont know much about jack, but more forward lean seems to help me out with carving A LOT! Saw this guys video on carving and he says he has his high backs set all the way forward as possible.


----------



## joebloggs13

Hey Chomps, what cambered Arbor are you riding? I have been messing with my setup on a Yes PYL/Cartel combo. Didn't have much forward lean at first. Started this season with a new pair of Burton Ion, which is much stiffer than my old noodled out burton boots. I dialed in more forward lean now....F3. Getting the feel, as the ride is different. 
Its just that I also have an Arbor Steepwater, and am waiting to pull the trigger on some Diodes, and was wondering how much lean you have. I am going to have to experiment a fair bit I thing before getting the right setup...:nerd:


----------



## Motogp990

When I was learning, my buddy who taught me told me to put max fwd lean. I can't remember his exact reason but I think he said it would help me and I never questioned him.

To this day I still ride with pretty much max fwd lean regardless of my bindings, boots and or board combo.

I played around a bit with taking the lean off, however didn't notice enough of a difference and didn't feel it made my riding any better, so I continue to ride with a lot of lean. Mind you when I say "played around", it's only for a few runs here and there, not days and days of A and B comparison riding to make a science of it.

Personally I felt more of a difference adjusting my angles than adjusting my fwd lean.


----------



## F1EA

timmytard said:


> It's the same, rocker or no rocker.
> 
> It has to do with the amount power you can get in a heel side carve.
> 
> In order to do a high G deep ass trench, you need that forward lean in your highback,
> 
> Without it, you are relying SOLELY on your ankle muscles & the stiffness of your boots.
> 
> You/The Hulk/myself aren't going to be able to pull out a high G heel side carve using only our ankles.
> 
> High backs enable you to transfer all that force, to the strongest muscles in our body.
> Your quads.
> 
> You can crank em out to the point where your quads can't even hold the force of all the G's.
> 
> If your quads can't take that force, what do you think the chances your ankles are stronger?
> 
> 
> TT
> 
> 
> I like mine cranked:grin:


Ah of course. There's a different between "i can ride just fine" and "I'm laying deep ass trenches".

I was answering to Psicko where he says he can ride just fine without it. And you can. BUT adding lean adds a bit of quickness and definitely helps when doing deep turns... so yeah, you can still get down the hill just fine with or without it. And 1 click is not that noticeable at all.

I do F3 or F4 too, so that'd be somethig like mildly cranked 

Ah also on rocker, it's already quick enough to initiate turns; so fwd lean starts kicking in on deeeep turns.


----------



## joebloggs13

F1EA said:


> Ah of course. There's a different between "i can ride just fine" and "I'm laying deep ass trenches".
> 
> I was answering to Psicko where he says he can ride just fine without it. And you can. BUT adding lean adds a bit of quickness and definitely helps when doing deep turns... so yeah, you can still get down the hill just fine with or without it. And 1 click is not that noticeable at all.
> 
> I do F3 or F4 too, so that'd be somethig like mildly cranked
> 
> Ah also on rocker, it's already quick enough to initiate turns; so fwd lean starts kicking in on deeeep turns.


I am also riding F4 on the front and F2-F3 on the back...+18/0 setup.


----------



## Slixter

I've cranked my Malavitas up to F4. I find it helps with heelside carving and forces me to get my weight down over the board more into proper riding position. It was little uncomfortable at first as I've always rode with less but now I don't think I could go any lower.


----------



## Psicko

F1EA said:


> BUT adding lean adds a bit of quickness and definitely helps when doing deep turns... so yeah, you can still get down the hill just fine with or without it.QUOTE]
> 
> So, what you are saying forward lean helps with quicker turn initiation? So that would in turn help me when Im going through the trees where I need to be nimble to navigate through them? At least that's what Im getting out of it. Next time on the mountain I will add more forward lean to see if that helps. Does too much forward lean hurt the toeside turns? I seem to favor my heelside on cat tracks when I pick up a lot of speed.


----------



## F1EA

Psicko said:


> F1EA said:
> 
> 
> 
> BUT adding lean adds a bit of quickness and definitely helps when doing deep turns... so yeah, you can still get down the hill just fine with or without it.QUOTE]
> 
> So, what you are saying forward lean helps with quicker turn initiation? So that would in turn help me when Im going through the trees where I need to be nimble to navigate through them? At least that's what Im getting out of it. Next time on the mountain I will add more forward lean to see if that helps. Does too much forward lean hurt the toeside turns? I seem to favor my heelside on cat tracks when I pick up a lot of speed.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah definitely more snappy turn initiation. Lean doesnt hurt your turns; the downside is that a) it can be uncomfortable because your legs/knees are sort of forced to bend, and b) it may be too snappy on rails where any little movement you make tries to put the board on edge.
> 
> Fwd lean is so easy to adjust, i'd say just try a couple clicks on just to see if you like it. If it sucks, just set it back to how it was.
Click to expand...


----------



## 16gkid

I ride full lean on my flux sf in the morning,feels more aggressive and better for charging, then when the quads and legs are burnt out, I back it down for afternoon cruising


----------



## Psicko

F1EA said:


> Psicko said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah definitely more snappy turn initiation. Lean doesnt hurt your turns; the downside is that a) it can be uncomfortable because your legs/knees are sort of forced to bend, and b) it may be too snappy on rails where any little movement you make tries to put the board on edge.
> 
> Fwd lean is so easy to adjust, i'd say just try a couple clicks on just to see if you like it. If it sucks, just set it back to how it was.
> 
> 
> 
> Cool, thanks for the info. I just started going back into the park. For now I am using my old board with no forward lean for the park.
Click to expand...


----------



## Jcb890

Went to the 3rd notch last night and gave it a shot. Didn't notice too much different other than it being a little more cumbersome getting things situated to strap in. I'll give the 5th notch a shot next time out and back off if need be.


----------



## XxGoGirlxX

timmytard said:


> In order to do a high G deep ass trench, you need that forward lean in your highback,
> 
> Without it, you are relying SOLELY on your ankle muscles & the stiffness of your boots.
> 
> You/The Hulk/myself aren't going to be able to pull out a high G heel side carve using only our ankles.
> 
> High backs enable you to transfer all that force, to the strongest muscles in our body.
> Your quads.
> 
> You can crank em out to the point where your quads can't even hold the force of all the G's.
> 
> If your quads can't take that force, what do you think the chances your ankles are stronger?
> 
> 
> TT
> 
> 
> I like mine cranked:grin:


Awesome way to explain it... can you/ anyone please shed similar light on highback rotation?
I'm tinkering with my stance this year - went 2 clicks wider and going from duck to +/+ , about to start tinkering with lean and rotation too


----------



## Jcb890

XxGoGirlxX said:


> Awesome way to explain it... can you/ anyone please shed similar light on highback rotation?
> I'm tinkering with my stance this year - went 2 clicks wider and going from duck to +/+ , about to start tinkering with lean and rotation too


From what I have read, the highback being parallel allows the foot/leg to sit centered against the highback and when doing a heelside turn, puts the pressure where you want on the highback as opposed to putting more force on one of the sides of the highback, which makes your motion and force exuded less efficient.


----------



## timmytard

Jcb890 said:


> From what I have read, the highback being parallel allows the foot/leg to sit centered against the highback and when doing a heelside turn, puts the pressure where you want on the highback as opposed to putting more force on one of the sides of the highback, which makes your motion and force exuded less efficient.


Bingo.

Once you start cranking your high backs, it puts all that force on the back of your calf. If it's not positioned right it will strat to dig into your leg, not very comfy.

This only happens when they are cranked though. If they are set @ no forward lean, chances are you're not even using them, so it wouldn't matter if they were there or not, let alone rotated.


TT


----------



## Jcb890

I forgot to report back that I went with the full forward lean last week. Why didn't you guys have me try this sooner?:grin:

I'm a big fan.

I feel like I am more connected to and can feel more of the features in the snow. Yes, it sounds dumb, but it feels true.

I have noticed some added foot pain, but I'm just sticking with it, I figure my feet will get used to it at some point (I hope). No added calf or leg soreness that I can tell, but I haven't had a full day of top-to-bottom runs where I'm pushing it all day. Either way, I like it with the forward lean maxed out. I have tried it on a bunch of different snow conditions - fresh powder, hard-pack and even slushy spring-like conditions. I'm a big fan so far!

One thing I have noticed is that its a bit more of a pain to get strapped in correctly and get my boots seated in the heelcup the way I want due to the forward lean on the highback being more than the boot, but it just takes a little bit more fussing around to get it in there and situated. No big deal.


----------



## Mig Fullbag

Stoked you found a setting that works for you and improves your riding experience. :smile:


----------



## timmytard

Jcb890 said:


> I forgot to report back that I went with the full forward lean last week. Why didn't you guys have me try this sooner?:grin:
> 
> I'm a big fan.
> 
> I feel like I am more connected to and can feel more of the features in the snow. Yes, it sounds dumb, but it feels true.
> 
> I have noticed some added foot pain, but I'm just sticking with it, I figure my feet will get used to it at some point (I hope). No added calf or leg soreness that I can tell, but I haven't had a full day of top-to-bottom runs where I'm pushing it all day. Either way, I like it with the forward lean maxed out. I have tried it on a bunch of different snow conditions - fresh powder, hard-pack and even slushy spring-like conditions. I'm a big fan so far!
> 
> One thing I have noticed is that its a bit more of a pain to get strapped in correctly and get my boots seated in the heelcup the way I want due to the forward lean on the highback being more than the boot, but it just takes a little bit more fussing around to get it in there and situated. No big deal.


Not sure which bindings you are running ?
But some definitely won't let you go all the way cranked.

Haha, yeah, that's a bitch sometimes to get the heel all the way back in the cup.

Haha, that's why I have a system. 
Every single time I strap in.
1) Build a little ledge by pushing the snow forward, while just the front foot is binded. I don't EVER sit down in the snow.

2) Clean the snow out of the rear binding, have to do this because of the way I put my foot in the binding.

3) Put my toes in the bindings, a little bit behind where they will find their final resting place, with my heel up, like I was standing on my tippy toes.
Then push my heel straight down, causing my toes to move forward a little bit cause they were back a bit to start.

4) Fire up a big bomber.

5) Ride

This happens every single run off of every single chair, usually I only have to make the little platform once, & it stays there all day.


TT


----------



## Jcb890

Mig Fullbag said:


> Stoked you found a setting that works for you and improves your riding experience. :smile:


I actually changed up quite a bit over the past couple of weeks. What I think I noticed the most other than the highback lean was my positioning of my bindings along the width of the board (changed this yesterday). Here's a list of the changes I made:

1 - Changed highback lean, tried everything from 1 to 5 (on 5 for now) after always riding with no lean.
2 - Widened my stance - went up one set of holes on my back binding into the "Setback reference" location and moved by front binding up 2 sets of holes. Stance was ~23.5", now it is ~24.5"
3 - Paid attention to toe and heel overhand - I felt like my magnetraction on my new Jones Flagship was causing me to catch hard on some of my turns, sending me airborne into my next turn when I did not expect it (throwing me almost). After fixing the binding locations, I think that was the problem. I think I had too much overhang on my toe and it was not even, causing one edge to "catch" more than it should on some turns.

The stance width and highback lean I played around with separately. I noticed a large difference with the highbacks all the way forward (5), but did not notice a huge difference until that 5th setting. On the 3rd notch it made a little difference, but not a large one.

The positioning of the bindings in regards to the width of my board seems to given me a little better balance and ability to turn/carve a little harder and smoother. I felt like I was able to dig deeper trenches yesterday. There were a few spots where I was able to keep my speed up and so some nice hard carving and not wash out at all or mistakenly throw myself into the next turn.

So, if anyone hasn't done any of these things... do it! Play around with them separately if you can, try and give each setting a good run or 2 before changing also. If you like your stance as-is, be sure to document how you have things, but don't be afraid to change it up and see if there are other settings you might like more.

I'll probably tinker some more, but I'm digging my new settings.

+21 / +6 binding angles w/ ~24.5" stance width & max fwd lean.


----------



## Mig Fullbag

timmytard said:


> Every single time I strap in.
> 1) Build a little ledge by pushing the snow forward, while just the front foot is binded. I don't EVER sit down in the snow.
> 
> 2) Clean the snow out of the rear binding, have to do this because of the way I put my foot in the binding.
> 
> 3) Put my toes in the bindings, a little bit behind where they will find their final resting place, with my heel up, like I was standing on my tippy toes.
> Then push my heel straight down, causing my toes to move forward a little bit cause they were back a bit to start.
> 
> 4) Fire up a big bomber.
> 
> 5) Ride
> 
> This happens every single run off of every single chair, usually I only have to make the little platform once, & it stays there all day.
> 
> 
> TT


I do the the exact same thing ( except for #4 :wink: ) but with my back turned away from the slope, and I dig my heelside edge into the snow. The board has less of a chance to start moving. I have never sit down to strap in. And like you said, The "starting Platform" stays there pretty much all day... :smile:


----------



## Jcb890

timmytard said:


> Not sure which bindings you are running ?
> But some definitely won't let you go all the way cranked.
> 
> Haha, yeah, that's a bitch sometimes to get the heel all the way back in the cup.
> 
> Haha, that's why I have a system.
> Every single time I strap in.
> 1) Build a little ledge by pushing the snow forward, while just the front foot is binded. I don't EVER sit down in the snow.
> 
> 2) Clean the snow out of the rear binding, have to do this because of the way I put my foot in the binding.
> 
> 3) Put my toes in the bindings, a little bit behind where they will find their final resting place, with my heel up, like I was standing on my tippy toes.
> Then push my heel straight down, causing my toes to move forward a little bit cause they were back a bit to start.
> 
> 4) Fire up a big bomber.
> 
> 5) Ride
> 
> This happens every single run off of every single chair, usually I only have to make the little platform once, & it stays there all day.
> 
> 
> TT





Mig Fullbag said:


> I do the the exact same thing ( except for #4 :wink: ) but with my back turned away from the slope, and I dig my heelside edge into the snow. The board has less of a chance to start moving. I have never sit down to strap in. And like you said, The "starting Platform" stays there pretty much all day... :smile:


I do this also and it helps get the boots seated with the highbacks leaned forwards. Just wanted to note this difficulty in case anyone else is going to give is a shot and is worried about their boots not fitting in the binding the same as before.

I'm riding Union Factory bindings and they are leaned forward quite a bit. It looks really drastic compared to the normal 0* lean.


----------



## F1EA

Yeah fwd lean is awesome.


----------



## OU812

I have Union Contacts and and have it set to second last position forward lean, so almost full. I can definitely feel the board and binding and boots a lot more and feels much more responsive to me. I like the way it feels, like I'm locked in. I also noticed I gotta jam my boot in there a little more because of the forward lean but its no big deal. Sometimes getting out of the bindings at the end of the run can be funny cause the boot gets stuck in there. I don't sit down either, fuck that. Dig a little trench in for the board to hold on heel side. 

I'm wondering though if max forward lean is the same across all bindings? I'm guessing its not and maybe varies by manufacturer as well.


----------



## booron

IDK, I love the modern zero-forward-lean movement in binding design. I think that once you get the board leaned over, you don't really need the high backs anymore...


----------



## Shred&Butter

Jcb890 said:


> Just as the title says, what angle/lean do you use for the highbacks on your bindings?
> 
> What is the best setting for Carving / All-Mountain?
> 
> I've always ridden them with no lean/90* angle, but am toying with the idea of adding a bit of forward lean to see if it helps with carving. I'm curious what people's thoughts are on this.


'Just a little'. I don't know the angle but it's 1 or 2 'notches' forward (Contact Pros). It doesn't make much difference to carving for me but makes edge transition much more snappy and makes the board feel more responsive. I prefer it because I'm not a fan of my calves losing contact with the highbacks when I bend my knees. It's an easy adjustment so when you're out, keep moving them forward a notch before each run until you find the sweet spot. You might even prefer it as you already are with no lean.


----------



## Clayton Bigsby

I like fwd lean, not as much a my buddy, but for groomers/carving I feel it's a must.

I run my front binding at 18 degrees with fwd lean at 3/4 max and the back binding is at 0 degree with 0 lean, I ride with my back knee tucked in against my front leg so thats why the 0 Angle and 0 Lean. 

We started without steel edges or highbacks, going back is not in my future, unless I was in 18" of fresh on a Cat/Heli trip


----------



## Mig Fullbag

Clayton Bigsby said:


> We started without steel edges or highbacks, going back is not in my future, unless I was in 18" of fresh on a Cat/Heli trip


Exactly!!! :smile:


----------



## foobaz

I get park rats not using forward lean, but everyone else should have at least some...

Yesterday I took a closer look at how other snowboarders had their highbacks set and I couldn't spot a single person with any forward lean on their bindings. That's just bizarre.

Sure, it's a trade-off, but you don't have to go all the way. The improvement in heelside carves is significant.

With zero forward lean you have basically two options when doing a heelside turn - either you angle your body to the slope a bit and the board ends up being just barely on the heelside edge, or you angle your body more and put your center of mass too far over the snow. Each option is risky - in the former you can easily catch an edge (also, the response is weak), in the latter, it's easy to slip. 

People are just lazy and want to stand up straight on their boards, which may be ok while waiting in line for the lift, possibly while going through flats at low speed, but that's it...


----------



## Psicko

I have rome 390 bosses. Ever since I came across this thread Ive tried everything between no forward lean and full lean. I liked 2-3 clicks up on both of my bindings. It was more responsive without killing my leg muscles. I did get more response with higher setting, but it wasn't worth the extra response and how quickly my leg muscles got tired.


----------



## 24WERD

it all depends on conditions and if zero lean is preset at the most upright position. some bindings at zero has a lean already like the cartels and trice ones.

Also the material on the back and if it is flat or rounded and rotated and or asy /symetrical design.


----------



## freshy

Forward lean basically forces you to ride in high performance mode as your knees will always be bent thus you will have a lower center of gravity and generally be in a better body position which is great when your riding steeps and trees, but that stance sucks when your on a long flat cat track or on a mellow green run. I'll trade that performance for the comfort of standing straight up with my knees straight, but I got stiff boots and bindings so I gain most of that lost performance back anyway.

I also get weird about the highback putting all that pressure on that small tab when the lean is on and feel better when that pressure is spread all around the heel cup at the no lean setting. I don't know why it's not like I have ever snapped a heel cup, just some theory I have in my head.


----------



## neni

Mig Fullbag said:


> My angles vary between 24° to 30° on the front foot, and 3° to 9° on the rear foot, depending on which board I'm riding. But I always rotate the front hi-back so it is as close to parallel with the heel edge as I can get it, and run one more notch of forward lean on the rear hi-back than the front one. That's what feels best for me for carving.


F2 on pow days, ~F4 for groomer riding i.e. carving. Highbacks rotated. 

Funny tho, I always prefered a notch more lean on the front. If the hind had the same lean, I tend to overdo the hind edge part. Had ~+24/+9 many years, changed to mellow duck (+12/-6) last season, still catch myself that I fall back into fwd riding mode, shoulders n hind knee turned fwd, so probably doing a wild mix of body positions :laugh: Eh... I probably really should get a correcting lesson .


----------



## foobaz

freshy said:


> Forward lean basically forces you to ride in high performance mode


You mean the "correct stance" ?;]



freshy said:


> but that stance sucks when your on a long flat cat track


Actually, if you have fairly stiff boots, you can just lean on them. Let them carry your weight, so you don't have to make the effort. This way you keep the correct stance without trading comfort. At least on flats...



freshy said:


> I'll trade that performance for the comfort of standing straight up with my knees straight


If you're moving on a snowboard, with your knees straight, you're not just trading performance for comfort - you're likely to lose control the moment something unexpected happens.



freshy said:


> but I got stiff boots and bindings so I gain most of that lost performance back anyway.


The flex of your boots and bindings doesn't compensate for you not being able to absorb a mogul you didn't notice, or correct when your edge slips.



freshy said:


> I also get weird about the highback putting all that pressure on that small tab when the lean is on and feel better when that pressure is spread all around the heel cup at the no lean setting. I don't know why it's not like I have ever snapped a heel cup, just some theory I have in my head.


Yeah, I have the same thoughts when looking at those tabs. I forget all about it when on the slope though. Never had one break either.


----------



## foobaz

neni said:


> F2 on pow days, ~F4 for groomer riding i.e. carving. Highbacks rotated.


I rode a while at F4 and recently at F6. I think I'll end up using F5 for everything.

Fingers crossed for pow in St Anton, mid March...


----------



## Mig Fullbag

neni said:


> F2 on pow days, ~F4 for groomer riding i.e. carving. Highbacks rotated.
> 
> Funny tho, I always prefered a notch more lean on the front. If the hind had the same lean, I tend to overdo the hind edge part. Had ~+24/+9 many years, changed to mellow duck (+12/-6) last season, still catch myself that I fall back into fwd riding mode, shoulders n hind knee turned fwd, so probably doing a wild mix of body positions :laugh: Eh... I probably really should get a correcting lesson .


Have you tried going in between? Maybe +18/0 or +18/-3 would work better? Nothing wrong with shoulders and hind knee facing a little forward, more so for carving.


----------



## F1EA

I used to do F4 and then F2 or 3 on powder, but now I just leave it at F4 all over. End of the day when i'm tired I feel it, but I just deal with it.


----------



## Jcb890

F1EA said:


> I used to do F4 and then F2 or 3 on powder, but now I just leave it at F4 all over. End of the day when i'm tired I feel it, but I just deal with it.


That's kind of where I'm at right now. I feel the added lean hurting my feet on some runs, but I just deal with it and loosen up the boots at the bottom before heading back up again. I figure that I like the added responsiveness, so I'll just have to deal with the extra fatigue/pain.


----------



## neni

Mig Fullbag said:


> Have you tried going in between? Maybe +18/0 or +18/-3 would work better? Nothing wrong with shoulders and hind knee facing a little forward, more so for carving.


I actually had tried those angles when slowly moving to duck up to 15/15 and back to 12/6 which seens to offer best of both worlds to me. I can still rotate and ride fwd-ish, but if I want - and concentrate - also in the sideway "open hip" position, which - to me - is very comfy and stable especially in pow, like it a lot when riding our natural halfpipe shaped gullies. But as soon as back on groomers, I'm back in fwd orientation. Dunno, maybe I'm collecting new bad habits, but I like how my hind knee feels not that extremely crooked anymore like back in the day. I still can easily rotate it fwd with the -6. I've typical girls knock-knees, I feel like as when I further reduce the hind angle, he hind knee over-rotates inwards... but then, I've changes so many variables since I tried lower angles (wider stance from 50 to 55 to 58cm, narrower boards) so it may be a different story meanwhile.


----------



## Mig Fullbag

neni said:


> I actually had tried those angles when slowly moving to duck up to 15/15 and back to 12/6 which seens to offer best of both worlds to me. I can still rotate and ride fwd-ish, but if I want - and concentrate - also in the sideway "open hip" position, which - to me - is very comfy and stable especially in pow, like it a lot when riding our natural halfpipe shaped gullies. But as soon as back on groomers, I'm back in fwd orientation. Dunno, maybe I'm collecting new bad habits, but I like how my hind knee feels not that extremely crooked anymore like back in the day. I still can easily rotate it fwd with the -6. I've typical girls knock-knees, I feel like as when I further reduce the hind angle, he hind knee over-rotates inwards... but then, I've changes so many variables since I tried lower angles (wider stance, barrower board) so it may be a different story meanwhile.


Maybe it would be worth it to try it again, as going to a wider stance as surely also changed how much you will bring that hind knee in.

And... extremely jealous of those natural halfpipe shaped gullies. Not much of those around here... :frown:


----------



## freshy

foobaz said:


> You mean the "correct stance" ?;]
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, if you have fairly stiff boots, you can just lean on them. Let them carry your weight, so you don't have to make the effort. This way you keep the correct stance without trading comfort. At least on flats...
> 
> 
> 
> If you're moving on a snowboard, with your knees straight, you're not just trading performance for comfort - you're likely to lose control the moment something unexpected happens.
> 
> 
> 
> The flex of your boots and bindings doesn't compensate for you not being able to absorb a mogul you didn't notice, or correct when your edge slips.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I have the same thoughts when looking at those tabs. I forget all about it when on the slope though. Never had one break either.


Maybe I should have worded it like I like the *option* of standing with my knees straight so I can take a moving break on the flats. Cat tracks or greens I'm most likely going in a straight line flat basing it, so much more easy and comfortable doing that with straight legs IMO. If your picturing me on a mogul field with straight legs then yeah I'd be toast, and thats not the case. There are no unexpected hazards on a cat track or green run, there is not going to be a random mogul, there may be ice but if your riding straight and flat on your base it's not an issue if your making turns then you knees will be bent and if it's so foggy you can't see 10 feet in front of you then yeah I'll have my knees ready for a blind cliff even if I know it's a mellow groomed green run. If I do catch while flat basing and knees straight my 25+ years of experience kicks in and I adjust like a ninja and keep going.


----------



## linvillegorge

If you need to crank down your forward lean to force you to ride correctly, you're doing it wrong. Like most things snowboarding related, forward lean is largely personal preference. Do what works for you. If you haven't tried riding with forward lean, give it a shot. If you've always rode with a lot of forward lean, try backing off of it and see if you like that. There's no right or wrong answer.

Here's a hint though. If you find that you have to have your forward lean cranked down in order to engage your heel side, you're riding with poor technique.


----------



## kosmoz

I always adjust highback lean to replicate boots spine angle. If I get a bit lazy, I feel the highback pinching to my calves. I like the response this gives to my riding, changed boards for a few runs and imediately felt the lack of forward lean in the highback.


----------



## Jcb890

linvillegorge said:


> If you need to crank down your forward lean to force you to ride correctly, you're doing it wrong. Like most things snowboarding related, forward lean is largely personal preference. Do what works for you. If you haven't tried riding with forward lean, give it a shot. If you've always rode with a lot of forward lean, try backing off of it and see if you like that. There's no right or wrong answer.
> 
> Here's a hint though. If you find that you have to have your forward lean cranked down in order to engage your heel side, you're riding with poor technique.


I'm wondering if riding with no lean actually helps your technique initially since you don't get the added help of the highback without the lean on. I don't know, just an idea and I know my technique is far from perfect.


----------



## foobaz

linvillegorge said:


> If you need to crank down your forward lean to force you to ride correctly, you're doing it wrong.


I don't *need* to crank forward lean to *force* the correct position.

It just allows me to get on the heelside edge hard, without putting my entire body over the snow and risking the edge sliding out from under me, or straightening my legs mid-carve and being unable to correct for terrain layout changes.


----------



## foobaz

freshy said:


> Maybe I should have worded it like I like the *option* of standing with my knees straight so I can take a moving break on the flats.


Fair enough. I mean I get exhausted too, I just prefer optimizing for the case where I'm riding, not the case where I'm getting to the slope where I will be riding...



freshy said:


> Cat tracks or greens I'm most likely going in a straight line flat basing it, so much more easy and comfortable doing that with straight legs IMO. If your picturing me on a mogul field with straight legs then yeah I'd be toast, and thats not the case. There are no unexpected hazards on a cat track or green run, there is not going to be a random mogul


Actually, I've recently been riding in an area where you had to go really fast through some flats, to reach the end without taking the board off and there were some completely unexpected peaks and troughs, that could end up sending you off the track if you didn't bend/straighten your knees quickly to absorb them...


----------



## SGboarder

foobaz said:


> It just allows me to get on the heelside edge hard, without putting my entire body over the snow and risking the edge sliding out from under me, or straightening my legs mid-carve and being unable to correct for terrain layout changes.


Sounds like your technique is off. You should not lean or 'put your body over the snow', that is a common beginner mistake.


----------



## neni

SGboarder said:


> Sounds like your technique is off. You should not lean or 'put your body over the snow', that is a common beginner mistake.


And I though, the whole "body over the snow" is the aim of carving


----------



## deltout

over the snow


----------



## F1EA

neni said:


> And I though, the whole "body over the snow" is the aim of carving


Nah
Just the nipples.


----------



## SGboarder

neni said:


> And I though, the whole "body over the snow" is the aim of carving


Not for the carving that he is talking about...

And those guys are leaning over *not because they have to* (in order to get edge angle) *but because they can* thanks to their edge hold.


----------



## SkullAndXbones

i don't put any lean on my high backs because i usually just go straight down the mountain and i flat base a lot. it would be pointless to put that strain on my legs just to go straight. that's why i have no trouble traversing. if i put lean on my high backs i would need to start carving just to give my legs somewhat of a break.


----------



## freshy

F1EA said:


> neni said:
> 
> 
> 
> And I though, the whole "body over the snow" is the aim of carving
> 
> 
> 
> Nah
> Just the nipples.
Click to expand...

What if you have 36DD's?


----------



## foobaz

SkullAndXbones said:


> i don't put any lean on my high backs because i usually just go straight down the mountain and i flat base a lot.


It sounds like what you're riding is a hill, rather than a mountain ;]



SkullAndXbones said:


> that's why i have no trouble traversing. if i put lean on my high backs i would need to start carving just to give my legs somewhat of a break.


I don't know, maybe it's just me, but what's the fun in skidding your turns ? Do you really enjoy it more ?


----------



## SkullAndXbones

foobaz said:


> It sounds like what you're riding is a hill, rather than a mountain ;]
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know, maybe it's just me, but what's the fun in skidding your turns ? Do you really enjoy it more ?


i don't turn hahaha. but yeah, i enjoy going straight down way more then carving. the adrenaline rush is awesome. and while i'm sure my local mountain is more like a speed bump to people out west, i've found that, from my limited experience (i've only ridden in nj, ny, vt, and mt bachelor in oregon), the trail rating system for steepness is about the same. its just that their trails are longer and their steepest terrain goes beyond what we have here. for example: they have triple blacks and extreme terrain out west but my local mountain has only 1 double black and it's never open. it's actually not even on the trail map anymore.


----------



## freshy

foobaz said:


> Fair enough. I mean I get exhausted too, I just prefer optimizing for the case where I'm riding, not the case where I'm getting to the slope where I will be riding...
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, I've recently been riding in an area where you had to go really fast through some flats, to reach the end without taking the board off and there were some completely unexpected peaks and troughs, that could end up sending you off the track if you didn't bend/straighten your knees quickly to absorb them...


My no lean setting on my bindings with my built in lean on the boots is enough lean for me. I fail to see why I would need like a hair trigger on my heel edge while the toe edge gets no real extra leverage. No lean makes them both feel equal for lack of a better way of putting it. 

Actually there is a long flat area every where I ride (Big White and Revelstoke). I find the best was to accommodate those peaks and troughs you speak of is to put your weight forward on or past your leading foot and stay loose while flat basing and don't try to correct the board if it does a little deflecting, which it usually does, just keep it pointed where you want to go. If I do catch enough to topple me I can feel that this deflection needs some evasive maneuvers and I hop into it. I know lots of people that can't ride flat, guess it's a real skill or something because some people think you _need_ to be on an edge at all times. You need to trust your board and instincts. You need to use the force, yeah the Jedi kind, not the force of your maxed out lean fwd lean.

Whatever, I get the feeling I'm never going to convince you that no lean is fine, just as you are not going to convince me lean is optimized for the anti flats.


----------



## Jcb890

freshy said:


> My no lean setting on my bindings with my built in lean on the boots is enough lean for me. I fail to see why I would need like a hair trigger on my heel edge while the toe edge gets no real extra leverage. No lean makes them both feel equal for lack of a better way of putting it.
> 
> Actually there is a long flat area every where I ride (Big White and Revelstoke). I find the best was to accommodate those peaks and troughs you speak of is to put your weight forward on or past your leading foot and stay loose while flat basing and don't try to correct the board if it does a little deflecting, which it usually does, just keep it pointed where you want to go. If I do catch enough to topple me I can feel that this deflection needs some evasive maneuvers and I hop into it. I know lots of people that can't ride flat, guess it's a real skill or something because some people think you _need_ to be on an edge at all times. You need to trust your board and instincts. You need to use the force, yeah the Jedi kind, not the force of your maxed out lean fwd lean.
> 
> Whatever, I get the feeling I'm never going to convince you that no lean is fine, just as you are not going to convince me lean is optimized for the anti flats.


Like with stance width and feet angles, I think it depends on personal preference and what feels best/most comfortable for each rider.


----------



## freshy

Jcb890 said:


> Like with stance width and feet angles, I think it depends on personal preference and what feels best/most comfortable for each rider.


That's exactly right.


----------



## foobaz

freshy said:


> I know lots of people that can't ride flat, guess it's a real skill or something because some people think you need to be on an edge at all times.


I think it's mostly in people's heads. If you go flat, the chance of catching an edge goes up (even if it's not by much). Since this is the worst case scenario, especially at high speed, people choose to go on edge all the time, being perhaps overcautious, but safer.

When I was on the Proto, going flat made me nervous, I have to admit. It's all different now with the Ripsaw.

Whether it's the board, or just my attitude when on it, don't know, but the problem is resolved for me


----------



## OU812

Maybe I'm not understanding this properly, but with a camber board or a Ripsaw/C3 type profile the contact points are more in contact with the snow so its kinda like riding on edge right? If you're on a more rocker dominant board you need to lean forward more to get those contact points in the front to have more pressure on the snow or ride on either edge otherwise the middle rocker will make you feel unstable. Maybe I'm just repeating obvious shit, but thats the way I ride my CRC board otherwise I feel I have no control. Does that make sense?


----------



## Psicko

I have no experience with ripsaw or magnetraction type stuff. With camber boards you still need to lean to engage the edge. The edges are usually ground to around the 90* and slightly less. There is a good thread on here about snowboard profiles and the description of each one. Camber usually has the best edge hold for speed and also has good pop.


----------



## 16gkid

Did I really just that adding lean on your highback means you dont know how to ride??:dry: I would dare say its the opposite


----------

