# Best wax for storage



## Oldman (Mar 7, 2012)

You understand correctly.

Find the cheapest you can find, slap on a layer, drip it over the edges so they don't rust and put her away.

Raise a glass and call it a season.

ccasion14:


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## Harry Forks (Apr 17, 2017)

Ah bugger, I've just done mine with cold temp wax, as I have a huge block of it.

What negative effects will a cold wax have, as opposed to using a warm wax?


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

Harry Forks said:


> Ah bugger, I've just done mine with cold temp wax, as I have a huge block of it.
> 
> What negative effects will a cold wax have, as opposed to using a warm wax?


None as far as storage...but scraping might take a tad/very slight more effort and then there is matching the appropriate was to the snow temp at the beginning of next season.


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## Harry Forks (Apr 17, 2017)

wrathfuldeity said:


> None as far as storage...but scraping might take a tad/very slight more effort and then there is matching the appropriate was to the snow temp at the beginning of next season.


I'm planning on hot-scraping it at the start of next season anyway, then putting on whatever wax was right for the conditions

Was starting to worry that cold wax might do some damage in storage... Panic over, thanks for that clarification.


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## smellysell (Oct 29, 2018)

Damnit, just did a few of mine and didn't think about the edges. 

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## SlvrDragon50 (Mar 25, 2017)

I don't really pay attention to the edges, and I've never seen rust develop on them.


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## Crusty (Nov 8, 2018)

SlvrDragon50 said:


> I don't really pay attention to the edges, and I've never seen rust develop on them.


All depends on conditions. In the house, nope. In the cellar, sure. 

Maybe it's the radon.


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## SlvrDragon50 (Mar 25, 2017)

Crusty said:


> All depends on conditions. In the house, nope. In the cellar, sure.
> 
> Maybe it's the radon.


Yea, I keep mine in my apartment. If it's going into a basement or humid garage, definitely coat the edges.


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## freshy (Nov 18, 2009)

Personally I always use my normal all temp. My theory is since you want to wait at least a few hours before scraping 8 months of soaking into the base would be even better.

I bought a board with some cheap ass shit storage wax caked on and I don't think I ever got all the wax off even after hot scrapes cause it was so thick and sticky. Even to this day I'll hit a patch of the old sticky crap.

I've never understood why one would use cheap storage wax.


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## SlvrDragon50 (Mar 25, 2017)

freshy said:


> Personally I always use my normal all temp. My theory is since you want to wait at least a few hours before scraping 8 months of soaking into the base would be even better.
> 
> I bought a board with some cheap ass shit storage wax caked on and I don't think I ever got all the wax off even after hot scrapes cause it was so thick and sticky. Even to this day I'll hit a patch of the old sticky crap.
> 
> I've never understood why one would use cheap storage wax.


I didn't even know storage wax was a thing. Why spend money on another block of wax that you use once a year :nerd:

Hertel all the time!


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## Harry Forks (Apr 17, 2017)

SlvrDragon50 said:


> I didn't even know storage wax was a thing. Why spend money on another block of wax that you use once a year :nerd:
> 
> Hertel all the time!


It isn't really a thing. To the best of my knowledge, "applying storage wax" refers to the process of ironing it on and not scraping it off. As mentioned earlier in the thread, it might be best to use an all temp wax, so next season, you can scrape and go.

I didn't think about this, and used cold temp wax. Apparently no big drama.


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## lab49232 (Sep 13, 2011)

Ya this entire thing is overkill. Don't waste your time waxing your board for storage. If you do anyway because you think it's like a Ferrari or a '67 Corvette you need to keep cherry, it won't matter what you use for protection. Wax coverage will do wax coverage, the only difference is how hot the wax needs to be to melt.

Store you're board in a cool dry place. Attics are terrible, they get blazing hot in summer which can melt glue/epoxy materials used and....... THAT'S IT. That's all you have to worry about. Any rust you get on edges (which happens even in winter) is going to be very minor superficial rust that will instantly come off with either a couple runs next season or a quick sharpen. These aren't collectors cars, there a few hundred dollar piece of wood and fiberglass that are designed to be replaced every few years.


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## speedjason (May 2, 2013)

I think you guys are over thinking. Base doesn't get damaged if dry and sitting. Just wax it again before you ride next season.
Honestly, my base is pretty fucked up riding rails and boxes, still rides just fine. Keep the edges sharp if you have ridden over rocks and stuff.


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## freshy (Nov 18, 2009)

Harry Forks said:


> It isn't really a thing. To the best of my knowledge, "applying storage wax" refers to the process of ironing it on and not scraping it off..


Um, doesn't that make it a thing?


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## cliffjumper68 (Nov 30, 2018)

Hahaha resisted and now fresh pow coming tonight through weekend..... it may just be a thing!


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## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

Crusty said:


> All depends on conditions. In the house, nope. In the cellar, sure.
> 
> Maybe it's the radon.


If you're getting rust in your cellar you may want to consider a dehumidifier unless you like the living with mold. 80% is the magic number for both steel surface rust and mold and mildew to flourish.


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## Harry Forks (Apr 17, 2017)

freshy said:


> Um, doesn't that make it a thing?


I meant that storage wax isn't a special type of wax, it's a process.


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## Craig64 (Jul 16, 2015)

I recommend storage waxing up your sticks after the season end and making sure all the edges are covered by wax (prevents rust). I then throw the boards in a dry bag and chuck in a couple of silica gel bags in the snowboard bag. Board comes out after the summer slumber looking like new. 

I've repaired a few skis and boards for customers that have been sitting in their garages for years and the edges are often pitted deep so to get rid off this rust requires a lot of work on the gummie/diamond stone tools. I normally get them back close to perfect but you should never have to do this if you look after your boards.

I grabbed my son a new '13 Burton Vapor with S/Steel edges a few years ago......., set and forget.


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

mmurphy3333 said:


> My Season is over...I understand that a warm wax is best for off season storage. Appreciate any guidance.


Base prep specific wax is the best for storage. 
Swix has BP-series wax
Dominator has their Base prep wax also

If you don't have any, then warm wax is fine also. Some people clean their bases with base prep wax, but I don't, I use cheap warm wax to hotscrape then put a base prep wax in.

Might as well tune the edges so it's one less thing to worry about next season. Don't coat the edges in wax. It does seal the edges, but seals in residual moisture.

Throw in a silica gel moisture absorbing pack (that comes with many food packages) in the bag that you store your board.


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## Craig64 (Jul 16, 2015)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> Base prep specific wax is the best for storage.
> Swix has BP-series wax
> Dominator has their Base prep wax also
> 
> ...


This is an unusual observation???


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

Craig51 said:


> This is an unusual observation???


Think about it. Sure it seals out moisture, but it is also sealing in whatever residual moisture that is on the edges from handling (such as your hands) and/or the ambient moisture in the air. Unless you ensured there is no moisture by cleaning the edges with brake cleaner, then immediately sealing it, it's better to keep the edges clean of wax and have other methods of moisture control.


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## Snowdaddy (Feb 2, 2018)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> Think about it. Sure it seals out moisture, but it is also sealing in whatever residual moisture that is on the edges from handling (such as your hands) and/or the ambient moisture in the air. Unless you ensured there is no moisture by cleaning the edges with brake cleaner, then immediately sealing it, it's better to keep the edges clean of wax and have other methods of moisture control.


I'd imagine that the moisture you seal in is less than what it's exposed to over half a year if it's not sealed (not that I actually wax my edges myself). But once that residual water and oxygen has oxidized the iron it's done and no more oxidation can take place. Compared to the situation where new water can get to it.


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## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> Think about it. Sure it seals out moisture, but it is also sealing in whatever residual moisture that is on the edges from handling (such as your hands) and/or the ambient moisture in the air. Unless you ensured there is no moisture by cleaning the edges with brake cleaner, then immediately sealing it, it's better to keep the edges clean of wax and have other methods of moisture control.


Honestly, I think you are over thinking it and coming to some fairly dubious conclusions. Unless you're waxing in the pool the above simply isn't relevant.

The heat from the iron is more than enough in the summer wax case to overcome what I still say is a nonexistent issue of moisture.

The reality is a climate controlled storage of less than 80% humidity, which is pretty high, is all you need. Garage/barn/shed for a lot of people is not ideal because temperature variations (warm days and cool nights) can cause condensation on the edges when the dew point is hit.

I can't however comment for those lucky enough to be able to ride in the Winter and surf in the Summer. Salty sea air is really the only case I would say you may want to layer with wax or do some other end of season prep.


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## Craig64 (Jul 16, 2015)

Snowdaddy said:


> I'd imagine that the moisture you seal in is less than what it's exposed to over half a year if it's not sealed (not that I actually wax my edges myself). But once that residual water and oxygen has oxidized the iron it's done and no more oxidation can take place. Compared to the situation where new water can get to it.


Keeping your edges free from moisture and oxygen will prevent the formation of Iron oxide (Fe²O³). I have repaired skis and snowboards after long term storage and find that the rust is so much more prevalent and pitted around the contact point it had with the ground when left stored. I repair and restore hundreds of workshop/hand-tools and by later using grease/oil/WD40/paint to seal out moisture and oxygen which prevents the formation corrosion.


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

f00bar said:


> Honestly, I think you are over thinking it and coming to some fairly dubious conclusions. Unless you're waxing in the pool the above simply isn't relevant.
> 
> The heat from the iron is more than enough in the summer wax case to overcome what I still say is a nonexistent issue of moisture.
> 
> ...


It's not overthinking. It's a 2 way street, if it seals out something, then it has to seal something in. Wax isn't a 1 way moisture barrier like say Goretex.


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## SlvrDragon50 (Mar 25, 2017)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> It's not overthinking. It's a 2 way street, if it seals out something, then it has to seal something in. Wax isn't a 1 way moisture barrier like say Goretex.


Yea but oxidation isn't a nonstop process. You need a continual supply of moisture + air. Oxidation will consume what little moisture is present.


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## freshy (Nov 18, 2009)

Sweet only 8 more months of in depth discussions on the arbitrary and mundane 

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


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## Snowdaddy (Feb 2, 2018)

freshy said:


> Sweet only 8 more months of in depth discussions on the arbitrary and mundane
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk


Sometimes I wear shoes without socks just because I'm lazy.


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## alx9898 (Jan 13, 2018)

Craig51 said:


> I recommend storage waxing up your sticks after the season end and making sure all the edges are covered by wax (prevents rust). I then throw the boards in a dry bag and chuck in a couple of silica gel bags in the snowboard bag. Board comes out after the summer slumber looking like new.
> 
> I've repaired a few skis and boards for customers that have been sitting in their garages for years and the edges are often pitted deep so to get rid off this rust requires a lot of work on the gummie/diamond stone tools. I normally get them back close to perfect but you should never have to do this if you look after your boards.
> 
> I grabbed my son a new '13 Burton Vapor with S/Steel edges a few years ago......., set and forget.


Silica gel bags are a great idea. I was just wondering if I should keep the board and skis in a bag or leave it open to not trap moisture.


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## lab49232 (Sep 13, 2011)

alx9898 said:


> Silica gel bags are a great idea. I was just wondering if I should keep the board and skis in a bag or leave it open to not trap moisture.


You should actually remove the entire metal edge during storage. Store the in a bag of dry rice like when you drop your phone in water. You'll need to go to Costco to get their giant bag but once you buy one you'll never need to buy another, plus it will work well if you have a doomsday shelter!


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## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

lab49232 said:


> You should actually remove the entire metal edge during storage. Store the in a bag of dry rice like when you drop your phone in water. You'll need to go to Costco to get their giant bag but once you buy one you'll never need to buy another, plus it will work well if you have a doomsday shelter!


I remove, melt it down and reforge it before each season. Much easier to store in a giant cube so I cut out the trip to Costco.


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## SlvrDragon50 (Mar 25, 2017)

f00bar said:


> I remove, melt it down and reforge it before each season. Much easier to store in a giant cube so I cut out the trip to Costco.


You also get nice fresh edges at the start of each season.


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## Craig64 (Jul 16, 2015)

alx9898 said:


> Silica gel bags are a great idea. I was just wondering if I should keep the board and skis in a bag or leave it open to not trap moisture.


This is the big key...., before putting your boards/skis away for the off season make sure they are completely dry as well as the internal/external areas of your storage/carry bag. I zip the bags up and never have a problem. I repair/restore a lot of rusty edged ski's/boards that have been left in the garages without covers for a number of years and you generally find the corrosion is more prevalent with contact areas to the ground. This would be on the other end of the extreme as most people in here would be regular riders in winter. A dry cover can be a big help to keeping out the varying degrees of humidity throughout the year. Repairing a lot of ski's/boards gives you a good understanding of the importance of poor storage and care. A lot of people throw their board/ski's in a bag after the last run of the season, pack it away in the garage and wonder why it's all rusted up 8 months later when they pull it out for the next season.


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## NT.Thunder (Jan 4, 2020)

Noob question and sorry for the bump of an old thread.

I've got a couple of new boards that have still have a factory wax on them, was planning on using them on a trip in a couple of months but obviously no need to go into that.

Previously when I've lived near snowboarding shops/outlets I just drop to them to have tuning/waxing done and it mysteriously get's done, don't ask any questions. But now I'm in the tropics there's nothing here so interested in thoughts on whether I should look at a storage wax for the boards I have if they don't get used now until Dec/Jan heaven forbid and if I should learn to do it myself.

Is it worth me investing in a wax kit and learning how to do it over a few beers and youtube or go down the FckIt it'll be fine and have a shop do it at the end of trips in the future where ever I may be riding?

Can you wreck a board not knowing what you're doing?


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## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

NT.Thunder said:


> Is it worth me investing in a wax kit and learning how to do it over a few beers and youtube or go down the FckIt it'll be fine and have a shop do it at the end of trips in the future where ever I may be riding?
> 
> Can you wreck a board not knowing what you're doing?


What else do you have to do while in quarantine? And you can only ruin it if you're an idiot. In which case you're an idiot so self fulfillment was unavoidable.


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## Craig64 (Jul 16, 2015)

I always wax brand new and leave unscraped until the I ride it. I use low fluro hertal fc739 though. Wax also helps prevent edges from rusting but keeping board dry and free of moisture exposure in a cover also greatly assist.

You can ruin it if you leave iron on board for too long period.

If you want to set up for tuning which I would recommend it's a great idea. The problem we have in Australia is you have to source a lot of gear from overseas as it's pretty hard to buy everything if not anything in Australia. The best I've found is Snowinn from overseas. You need to get a 230/240 volt iron. Everything from USA is 110v. You just change plug over. I buy mainly ToKo gear as it's good quality. Just get a T8 iron. They are around $Au55 plus delivery. You'll need a base bevel and side edge tool. I have adjustable angle tools but most boards are around -1 degree 89 degree side edge. You can get jumbo scouring pads that Velcro to a solid plastic handle at Bunnings they are only about $4 a pad. You can get scrap 5mm perspex at plastic supplies and I just cut a scraper on my bandsaw. Amazon Au isn't bad to buy wax from. Sign up to prime and you'll get free delivery for wax etc from overseas. I set up a little tuning business on days off work and do about 50 peoples ski and boards. I've spent at least $3k setting up but I've got a really good workshop. I could be doing a dozen boards skis at once in winter. There is only 1 ski shop in Newie though. Diamond stones and vices will bring the cost to set up $$$. Keep to good brand tools ie ToKo Swix, moonflex. You can also get okay tools of Aliexpress. There a a few good snowboard tuning supply stores in the States but shipping is really expensive and our Aussie dollar is like shit now.


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## Craig64 (Jul 16, 2015)

I'd imagine there are no ski/snowboard shops in the Territory.


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## NT.Thunder (Jan 4, 2020)

Craig64 said:


> I'd imagine there are no ski/snowboard shops in the Territory.


Nope, there's a few of us up here that ride but all gear is online. I wondered whether a board - surf/skate/ski/kite business might survive but really with the crocodiles here it would just be skate and even that's not a big scene. Few guys surf and kite, I used to but won't do it up here, I've seen too many crocodiles moving further and further into areas they never used to be and where 10 years ago the crocs would stay away from boats/people somewhat, now they're not concerned one bit. If you could design evil a saltwater croc would be pretty close. plus we've made it a tourist attraction hanging meet of a stick and teaching them to jump next to boats for a feed.

Thanks for your post re: wax, helps a lot  

I used to live in Merewether right next door to the Burwood Inn up the road from the Prince, awseome spot but that was over 20 years ago.


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## Craig64 (Jul 16, 2015)

A wax iron, scraper and scotchbrite are pretty cheap to set up. Buy wax in bigger blocks as it is cheaper (500grms). Using the chalk on method rather than drip is the best for application to minimise excessive wax usage. So put wax on iron quickly which will heat up the contact section and then rub that on the board like you would with a surfboard. This will spread wax across the base thinly. You don't need it to be completely covered just in the general area's then go over the base with the iron on 100-120C which will spread the chalked on wax around and melt into into the pores of the sintered/extruded base. 

I have various rotor brushes 100mm and 300mm, various vices, edge tools that make set up expensive but really only have to go to a shop to get a base grind if I ever need one.


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## NT.Thunder (Jan 4, 2020)

Craig51 said:


> A wax iron, scraper and scotchbrite are pretty cheap to set up. Buy wax in bigger blocks as it is cheaper (500grms). Using the chalk on method rather than drip is the best for application to minimise excessive wax usage. So put wax on iron quickly which will heat up the contact section and then rub that on the board like you would with a surfboard. This will spread wax across the base thinly. You don't need it to be completely covered just in the general area's then go over the base with the iron on 100-120C which will spread the chalked on wax around and melt into into the pores of the sintered/extruded base.
> 
> I have various rotor brushes 100mm and 300mm, various vices, edge tools that make set up expensive but really only have to go to a shop to get a base grind if I ever need one.


Thanks, I notice there seems to be a few Demon kits around in Aus but not many of the other brands, I could find one Toko T8 for about $120 AUD. Also, are there any issues up here in the tropics with waxing decks? Someone said today up here it's no use waxing boards as you need cooler ambient air temperatures. Surely even if that was the case an aircon cooling a room to 20 degrees and drying it out would work no?


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## lab49232 (Sep 13, 2011)

NT.Thunder said:


> Thanks, I notice there seems to be a few Demon kits around in Aus but not many of the other brands, I could find one Toko T8 for about $120 AUD. Also, are there any issues up here in the tropics with waxing decks? Someone said today up here it's no use waxing boards as you need cooler ambient air temperatures. Surely even if that was the case an aircon cooling a room to 20 degrees and drying it out would work no?


All way too much thought. Melt wax drops on base, spread out with whatever the cheapest flat based iron you can find. Wax in any conditions, it doesn't matter. Spend more time thinking about what beer to drink while waxing. DO NOT buy a $120 iron. Well unless ya got tons of money to blow without care.


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

lab49232 said:


> All way too much thought. Melt wax drops on base, spread out with whatever the cheapest flat based iron you can find. Wax in any conditions, it doesn't matter. Spend more time thinking about what beer to drink while waxing. DO NOT buy a $120 iron. Well unless ya got tons of money to blow without care.


Totally agree on the beer part!

I prefer the cranion method instead of dripping method. Less wax excess, less scraping effort (I'm lazy), more time to drink. 

As of the former storage waxing topic? Never did that in 20 years snowboarding. No board ever disintegrated or complained. Wax before you use, and they will ride fine. Rust on edges will be gone after few turns. Storage waxing is a hobby, not a necessity. If you like to wax? Sure, do so. But the board doesn't needs it.


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## Craig64 (Jul 16, 2015)

NT.Thunder said:


> Thanks, I notice there seems to be a few Demon kits around in Aus but not many of the other brands, I could find one Toko T8 for about $120 AUD. Also, are there any issues up here in the tropics with waxing decks? Someone said today up here it's no use waxing boards as you need cooler ambient air temperatures. Surely even if that was the case an aircon cooling a room to 20 degrees and drying it out would work no?


With delivery to Australia $Au92.48 for a T8 from Snowinn.





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