# Are base cleaners a no go?



## ninjalovegod (Jan 15, 2013)

I have always used a hot wax scrape to clean the base of my boards, but I am starting to wonder whether all base cleaners are bad. Purely out of laziness it would be a little quicker but a long time ago I was told it would damage and dry out the base, does this still apply to all base cleaners. 

Anyone got any wisdom on the topic?


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

yes. Base cleaners do what they do well, dissolving the wax. Generally, I would not use solvent base cleaners. When you dissolve and remove the wax and other compounds, you'll spend more time waxing afterwards to rejuvenate the base.

But, base cleaners are good for spot cleaning for preparation of P-tex repairs.

So your choice. A little extra effort cleaning the base, or more effort later waxing, building up the wax in the nooks and crannies.


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## ninjalovegod (Jan 15, 2013)

Does this also apply for Citrus based base cleaners, I have heard their more 'gentle' or do they just dry base out as well?


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

They are more gentle on your hands.. the ones that are actually citrus oil based.... that's about it. They still do what petroleum distillate based cleaners do well, dissolve wax and such to clean your base.


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## ninjalovegod (Jan 15, 2013)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> They are more gentle on your hands.. the ones that are actually citrus oil based.... that's about it. They still do what petroleum distillate based cleaners do well, dissolve wax and such to clean your base.


Thanks for the info - hot wax and scrape it is. Hardly a time saver if I end up just having to wax it more.


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## CassMT (Mar 14, 2013)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> ... base cleaners are good for spot cleaning for preparation of P-tex repairs.


thats the _only_ time i do a base clean...found a killer all-temp wax, so there's really no reason to deep clean if you are not changing wax colors


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## KansasNoob (Feb 24, 2013)

CassMT said:


> thats the _only_ time i do a base clean...found a killer all-temp wax, so there's really no reason to deep clean if you are not changing wax colors


What wax do you use?


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## CassMT (Mar 14, 2013)

lose your friends, pass tucking skiracers on the cattrack all day ...i did switch to some red at the end of the season, just cuz the shop ran out of XF, didnt even base clean just waxed it right in with, no probs


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## boarderaholic (Aug 13, 2007)

I'll usually just do a hot scrape, and then slap on a thick layer of wax before storage. I've only ever used base cleaner a couple times in the 8 or so years I've been snowboarding, and that's from riding through mud and having that crap stuck in there pretty good. As someone else already mentioned, base cleaner is pretty harsh stuff, even if it is citrus based.


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

CassMT said:


> lose your friends, pass tucking skiracers on the cattrack all day ...i did switch to some red at the end of the season, just cuz the shop ran out of XF, didnt even base clean just waxed it right in with, no probs


Most of the time, I find Swix to be overpriced at various shops.

So... I use Racewax FluoroMax All Temperature

RaceWax All Temperature Universal Fluoro Ski Snowboard Wax, 80 g

Not sure about shipping costs to Europe though.

Ironically, in the US, Swix seems to be a big proponent of base cleaners, instead of hot scraping....

which... I use RaceWax Warm Temperature Hydrocarbon Ski Wax, 150 g


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

ninjalovegod said:


> Purely out of laziness it would be a little quicker but a long time ago I was told it would damage and dry out the base, does this still apply to all base cleaners.


Whoever told you that was just perpetuating a bad myth. Bases are plastic. Plastic doesn't "dry out" using cleaners.

Hell I use brake and parts cleaner to spot clean a repair area before p-tex. If anything will "dry out" plastic it'd be that.



CassMT said:


> thats the _only_ time i do a base clean...found a killer all-temp wax, so there's really no reason to deep clean if you are not changing wax colors


Exactly, same here! In 20+ years I've never felt the need to clean my base. Maybe I ride over too many rocks? It's self cleaning?!? :laugh:


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## CassMT (Mar 14, 2013)

yeh, the XF was a bit spendy, but imo worth it, i think i used 2 blocks for the whole winter, so...

def cheaper to find it online somewhere than in a shop,(true for all things snowboard). somewhere i saw it $18 a brick, i'll find the link....

i've never bought base cleaner either, when i needed to ptex a bit i used some paint thinner or gas or some shit i found in the garage...whatevah, it worked


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## Psi-Man (Aug 31, 2009)

When a base has no wax it's going to look dry, why wouldn't it, right? So by using a cleaner to remove all the wax it will look dry as hell. I think that is the reason most people are hesitant to use the solvent cleaners. Good old mineral spirits cleans the extruded bases on my kids boards very well. No way I am going to hot scrape those things everytime they go out. I look at the base on these things and wonder where the hell they rode these things when I wasn't looking. Now brake cleaner is interesting in a pinch....WD-40 works well too.


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

Psi-Man said:


> When a base has no wax it's going to look dry, why wouldn't it, right?


No. "Dry" bases will look white. Fresh (good p-tex) is more opaque (unless it's black p-tex)

Friction + no wax will damage the P-tex, and in laymen's terms, make it go white (it's a molecular change at the surface of the p-tex) and waxing it again won't fix the problem. You'll have to remove that layer to expose the good p-tex again. A good brushing with a steel brush will expose it again, or stone grind.

You'll notice the p-tex by the edges end to wear more, since we use the edges to turn.

P.S... I used to be very lazy... well cheap, to get the board waxed.... until I invested in the supplies to wax... then I wax after every day I ride....


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## Psi-Man (Aug 31, 2009)

Correct, "dry" bases look white. I don't necessarily agree with the rest of the stuff about damaging the p-tex. I have seen nasty, dry, white bases come back to life quite nicely after a hot wax (scraped, structured, polished, etc.). I used to be a little fanatical about this stuff after reading all the info on Tognar. Not saying it's not true, I just think it's a little excessive unless you are Bode Miller looking to pickup an extra tenth of a second in the downhill.


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

Psi-Man said:


> Correct, "dry" bases look white. I don't necessarily agree with the rest of the stuff about damaging the p-tex. I have seen nasty, dry, white bases come back to life quite nicely after a hot wax (scraped, structured, polished, etc.). I used to be a little fanatical about this stuff after reading all the info on Tognar. Not saying it's not true, I just think it's a little excessive unless you are Bode Miller looking to pickup an extra tenth of a second in the downhill.


If you think lack there of waxing plus friction of snow doesn't damage the p-tex... then waxing must be a scam.

What else would cause the p-tex to "dry out"?


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## hktrdr (Apr 3, 2012)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> If you think lack there of waxing plus friction of snow doesn't damage the p-tex... then waxing must be a scam.
> 
> What else would cause the p-tex to "dry out"?


'Friction' from snow will do fuck all (i.e., nada, zilch, zero) damage to the base. Ptex is about 15 times as abrasion resistant as carbon steel, so you would have to wax your edges as well to 'protect' them from the snow :laugh:


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## ItchEtrigR (Jan 1, 2012)

hktrdr said:


> 'Friction' from snow will do fuck all (i.e., nada, zilch, zero) damage to the base. Ptex is about 15 times as abrasion resistant as carbon steel, so you would have to wax your edges as well to 'protect' them from the snow :laugh:


Leonid Kuzmin has joined our forums...


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## Psi-Man (Aug 31, 2009)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> If you think lack there of waxing plus friction of snow doesn't damage the p-tex... then waxing must be a scam.
> 
> What else would cause the p-tex to "dry out"?


Well, technically, I suppose, you are correct. Riding the board is going to cause friction and wear, like anything else. The wax wears off, base looks/gets dry, time for new wax....pretty simple stuff IMO. I just think the term "damaging the base" and "changing molecular structure" are a little overblown. P-tex is tough stuff. I keep my board waxed to keep it fast not because I think I'm damaging anything, that's all.


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## ItchEtrigR (Jan 1, 2012)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> No. "Dry" bases will look white. Fresh (good p-tex) is more opaque (unless it's black p-tex)
> 
> Friction + no wax will damage the P-tex, and in laymen's terms, make it go white (it's a molecular change at the surface of the p-tex) and waxing it again won't fix the problem. You'll have to remove that layer to expose the good p-tex again. A good brushing with a steel brush will expose it again, or stone grind.
> 
> ...


the only person here who knows what he's talking about....

(Dry Base, Base Burn, Oxidation) is all the same sh!t its the ripping of polyethylene micro hairs from the base or "shredding" by the sharp spikes of snow crystals it mostly occurs where the friction is greatest along the edges of your snowboard. Snow abrasion is unavoidable in skiing & snowboarding, hell its even a problem in cross country where our speeds are considerately slower than alpine or snowboarding. Once base burn has occurred only a stone grind will fix the problem. Wax all you want but you'll notice whitening on your base shortly after waxing especially on extruded bases which absorbs the least wax. The stone grinding process strips away a thin layer of base material, exposing healthy polyethylene. Base burn will occur whether you wax or not because of snow abrasion and on extruded bases its nearly unavoidable, but maintaning your board or skis will slow the process.


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