# Base grind/waxing questions



## Mr. Right (Sep 27, 2007)

I was wondering a few things about this. I had a base grind done on my M3 two seasons ago because it had a few relatively deep gashes in it. It seemed to remove a lot of the squirlliness (sp?) when riding and the tech explained to me that a lot of boards aren't even all that flat on the bottom brand new from the factory. Are there any reasons to get a basegrind aside from deep scratches? Do boards really arrive in the package inconsitent (ie not flat)?

And waxing...I think it was TWS I read the article in but it was about the olympics and Shaun White etc. saying that the pros in the olympics waxed their boards a rediculous amount of times (like 30 each or more before the events started IIRC) because no matter how much you wax a board you can still get more wax into the base. So, if I wax the piss out of my board once daily up until the real season hits, could JI potentially have to hot wax it less during the full season and be able to get away with just rub on more often?

Are these just peoples opinions or more fact?

Hot waxing gets old, well atleast the scraping.


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## X1n54n3x (Sep 28, 2007)

i worked at a shop and and i know that when you wax enough it will just build up and can actually create inconsistancies. basically a wast of wax and if you hate scraping imagine what youre gonna have to scrape after 30 runs through the waxer. this is ofcorse with the wax at the shop and not some super high quality stuff- so maybe 30 runs of that does the trick? the base grinder and stone grinder do wonders for a board though.


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## Snowjoe (Jul 3, 2007)

Mr. Right said:


> I was wondering a few things about this. I had a base grind done on my M3 two seasons ago because it had a few relatively deep gashes in it. It seemed to remove a lot of the squirlliness (sp?)


Yep most higher end boards, in fact ALOT of boards now come with sintered bases. This means they arent flat and have lots of very small grooves in the base, its to help wax absorption and make the board faster.


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## Mr. Right (Sep 27, 2007)

Ok I'll probably go back to doing what I used to and just hot wax it once a week, and slap a little race paste on the the mornings before I ride. My M3 has a sintered base so did I damage it by getting a base grind??


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## boarderaholic (Aug 13, 2007)

Wait. What do you mean by "flat?" Do you mean the board is warped? Or that the base has grooves? If you mean the latter, that is a GOOD THING. I like to get base grinds once a year, to take off the old junk thats built up over the season. And yeah, base grinding takes off a bit of the base, but it's so little, it's not going to affect anything at all. Getting a base grind is like getting ride of extra baggage, once it's gone, it's like a fresh new start.


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## killclimbz (Aug 10, 2007)

Keep in mind you'll only get so many base grinds out of a board. 3 maybe 4 good grinds and it's done. I've definitely worn out boards with the base grind before. As of late, I get so many core shots, nicks, and stuff riding off piste and backcountry that I quit worrying about it. Just cut that crap off, do a base weld and go. Lots of ptex.

As far as waxing goes. I tend to wax after every two or three outings on a board, or it temps radically change. I tend to really notice the lack of wax on the third full day of riding.

Get yourself real ptex and other tuning tools. Candle ptex sucks. I don't care what anybody says. It blows when compared to real ptex. You can get shop quality stuff at Tognar. I've been buying from them for 4 years or so now. Very trustworthy. I think I am going to invest in the ptex gun this season.


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## Guest (Oct 12, 2007)

Snowjoe said:


> Yep most higher end boards, in fact ALOT of boards now come with sintered bases. This means they arent flat and have lots of very small grooves in the base, its to help wax absorption and make the board faster.


There are two types of p-tex used on skis and snowboards today...extruded and sintered. 
Extruded p-tex is a low molecular weight polyethylene that is manufactured by heating it to 350 degrees F. and pressure feeding it through a die (or slot) to the desired shape and thickness. It is used as a base material for many recreational skis and snowboards.
Sintered p-tex is made by packing ultra high molecular weight polyethylene powder into a cake that is heated and compressed (sintered) to form a log or billet (see diagram below). A lathe or mill is then used to shave (scive) off a thin layer to the desired thickness.

The advantages of sintered over extruded p-tex are 20-25% higher abrasion and impact resistance, a very low coefficient of friction, and the ability to absorb over 3 times more wax. Accordingly, sintered p-tex is found on the bases of most racing and high performance skis and snowboards.


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## KIRKWOOD-$LUT (Dec 16, 2006)

there are so many bases these days
main 2 were already pointed out

now did you get it STONE GROUND or just BELT tuned?

being a tech for over 10 years, i can tell you guys something
i grind my board at least 5 times a year, but you have to know what your doing
I also stone my board twice a year, spring snow is wet so you need a different pattern


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## Mr. Right (Sep 27, 2007)

That I really don't know. He did say he didn't remove much at all, just enough to get rid of a couple gouges and flatten the bottom of the board a little more.


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## landonk5 (Aug 19, 2007)

Get yourself real ptex and other tuning tools. Candle ptex sucks. I don't care what anybody says. It blows when compared to real ptex. You can get shop quality stuff at Tognar. I've been buying from them for 4 years or so now. Very trustworthy. I think I am going to invest in the ptex gun this season.[/QUOTE]

hey are you talking about the ribbon p-tex? cause the only p-tex i know is the
candle one and i want to know about the real p-tex that you say is so much
better. is it the one that site you gave us offers for $1 each ribbon?


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## KIRKWOOD-$LUT (Dec 16, 2006)

the P-TEX REPAIR STRING is great if you see base or along the sidewall
remember black will be always stronger than white
for light scratching i use the drip and never had one pull out


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## lisevolution (Sep 20, 2007)

Hey Kirkwood, I just ordered a Rome Flag 168 from your e-store through Daniela...I see you're a tech there, are you the one who epoxied the chip in the nose???


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## KIRKWOOD-$LUT (Dec 16, 2006)

we do not sell rome, last time i checked
where did u get it?


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## killclimbz (Aug 10, 2007)

KIRKWOOD-$LUT said:


> the P-TEX REPAIR STRING is great if you see base or along the sidewall
> remember black will be always stronger than white
> for light scratching i use the drip and never had one pull out


Really black repair string is stronger? There are two types of string I have bought. One that is made to bond to base and edge material and one that is made for ptex only. The former is a bit harder to work with and the latter works great on ptex only. Generally it comes right out if I use it to bond to core shots.
I've never read that before...


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## KIRKWOOD-$LUT (Dec 16, 2006)

yes black is stronger
i have seen white pull out and black not that much


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## Guest (Jan 13, 2008)

I have a sintered base on my board and have some oxidation on along the edges of my board. Will a good wax get rid of the oxidation or do I have to take it in to get a base grind? Thanks.


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## Guest (Jan 14, 2008)

how i know what kind base i have?
burton cruzer 155 i think 2005
sintered or extruded or some other?


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## Guest (Jan 14, 2008)

Mendel said:


> how i know what kind base i have?
> burton cruzer 155 i think 2005
> sintered or extruded or some other?


Your base is extruded. Google it. 

This means that your board will not hold wax very well, meaning you'll have to wax it more. Then again if you don't wax it you won't hurt it as much as you would a sinistered board. 

I have a Ride Fleetwood and I ride in PA and MD and because of the usual slushy conditions I have to wax my board almost every time I go because the slush takes the wax right off.


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## lisevolution (Sep 20, 2007)

it's not just the slush...it's also the fact that the majority of the snow is manmade so the crystals are tougher and wear out the wax that much faster also. I have a sintered base on my Rome and I generally re-wax every 3-4 days I use it. On my ride with the extruded base I did it after every trip


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## Guest (Jan 14, 2008)

lisevolution said:


> it's not just the slush...it's also the fact that the majority of the snow is manmade so the crystals are tougher and wear out the wax that much faster also. I have a sintered base on my Rome and I generally re-wax every 3-4 days I use it. On my ride with the extruded base I did it after every trip


That is true also. The day I went was really slush so thats why I said that.


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