# Never Summer base/not holding wax



## buggravy (Feb 19, 2008)

Has anyone found that the NS bases, specifically the SL-R doesn't hold wax well? The factory wax was gone half way through the first day, which I guess is to be expected. I had it waxed at the local shop before going out again, but about 3/4 of the way through the day the base looked dry/grey (it's a black base), and it felt like I was hitting carpet when I'd hit flats. Granted, I'd done a lot of runs, and it was man made slush, but I was surprised to burn through 2 wax jobs in 2 days (less than really, as the wax was toast before the end of the day). Will this dissipate as it gets waxed more? Going to start waxing myself too, so I know what kind of job is done/what's used.


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## jardo56 (Mar 6, 2009)

Factory wax is poop. I don't trust it. 

Brand new boards are pretty thirsty for wax so I don't think this is anything out of the norm. I would give it a good waxing yourself before making any further jugements. Snowolf has a very good instructional video on how to do it.


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## RVM (Jan 31, 2007)

If you just had a machine wax job done it isn't gonna last long at all. Learning to do it yourself is the best bet. I can't see paying someone else $30-$50 to hot wax my board and sharpen my edges when it is so easy to do. It also allows you to become much more familiar with your board and how it responds to subtle tuning changes. 

Hot wax it and then take it out again. I'll bet the wax lasts a lot longer.


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## Guest (Mar 19, 2009)

i waxed my NS revy-r after 2 days ( after buying it) and it is holding well for at least 5 days after that, it is due for another one soon but it is still pretty fast!


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## Guest (Mar 20, 2009)

Well, a company calling itself neversummer, yet they still make skateboards... that shoulda been your first clue... dunno, i'd demo a titan tx for sure... but:dunno:


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## tomtom88 (Nov 13, 2008)

was that a slight towards never summer?! wtf. lol jk


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## Guest (Mar 20, 2009)

tomtom88 said:


> was that a slight towards never summer?! wtf. lol jk


Dunno. I'd like to eventually demo a Titan TX first! See how it compares to what i'm riding now...


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## tomtom88 (Nov 13, 2008)

i'd rather have the legacy-r. the titan just seems like its a step below splitboards and whatnot, like its a great backcountry board ya know?


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## Guest (Mar 20, 2009)

yo i have put at least 10-15 days on my NS revy-r and could not be happier with the base ( ad the board ) - do trees, pow, groomers, slush, some park ( just waxed it once so far)


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## killclimbz (Aug 10, 2007)

The bases hold wax fine. They use some of the harder, better, and more expensive base material out there. So it will take a wax or two to get it soaked in. I would never ride a brand new Neversummer without waxing first myself.

The Titan is a big mountain board. Steep, gnarly lines are what it excels at. Powder or ice. For plain old deep pow riding, the nose tends to perl a bit and the board loses float. You'd be better off with a rocker model or the Summit if you really want a fun pow ride.


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## Guest (Mar 20, 2009)

buggravy said:


> Has anyone found that the NS bases, specifically the SL-R doesn't hold wax well?


Nope. I've been waxing mine every 3-5 days and it seems to be doing well. It depends on what you're riding on too - after 3 days on mostly powder, it's fine. 2 days on spring slush and there's hardly a speck of wax left on it. As for the factory wax job, you could pretty much tell it sucked just by looking at it.


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## arsenic0 (Nov 11, 2008)

As Seedy said, my SL-R has no problems with wax really. But i tend to do my board, even if its just down the edges and a bit down the middle before every trip.


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## scottland (Jan 8, 2008)

Wax it 3 or 4 times right out of the gate. It'll be much better. They hold wax just fine.


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## Guest (Mar 20, 2009)

Not impressed with the factory wax job from NS on the board (revolver) I just received. It is night and day compared to my Bataleon Jam. Maybe the shop did their own wax job on the Jam? I picked it up at SkiDazzle.


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## Um...? (Jan 22, 2009)

Forget the SoCal ski shops for waxing and just diy. I've found that most of the shops use a warm temp wax that ends up coming right off after a few runs anyway. Get yourself a wax kit and get some good all temp wax and make the magic happen yourself. You'll save some $$ and only have yourself to blame for a dry base.


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## ScBlack (Dec 9, 2008)

Really? My Jam came factory waxed and it looked pretty sad, dried up edges...nothing a good DIY didn't fix though...


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## Guest (Mar 20, 2009)

ScBlack said:


> Really? My Jam came factory waxed and it looked pretty sad, dried up edges...nothing a good DIY didn't fix though...


Yeah. But this is in relation to the NS. And again maybe the shop did their own wax job.


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## Guest (Mar 20, 2009)

Um...? said:


> Forget the SoCal ski shops for waxing and just diy. I've found that most of the shops use a warm temp wax that ends up coming right off after a few runs anyway. Get yourself a wax kit and get some good all temp wax and make the magic happen yourself. You'll save some $$ and only have yourself to blame for a dry base.


Yeah, it 's definitely a DIY. I was just comparing how they came when I purchased.


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## arsenic0 (Nov 11, 2008)

Is there ANY company out there that actually has a factory wax that is worthy of riding? No.
Just wax your own boards FFS people, it takes like 15 minutes excluding letting it cool off..stop being lazy, you spent 300+ dollars on a board, spend a dollar or two to wax the damn thing yourself..


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## buggravy (Feb 19, 2008)

Um...? said:


> Forget the SoCal ski shops for waxing and just diy. I've found that most of the shops use a warm temp wax that ends up coming right off after a few runs anyway. Get yourself a wax kit and get some good all temp wax and make the magic happen yourself. You'll save some $$ and only have yourself to blame for a dry base.


Done. Dakine Super Tune kit and brick o' Super Hot Sauce en route. Like someone else said, at least if I have a shitty wax job from now on I'll know it's my own fault, and just need to adjust.


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## MunkySpunk (Jan 7, 2009)

arsenic0 said:


> Is there ANY company out there that actually has a factory wax that is worthy of riding? No.
> Just wax your own boards FFS people, it takes like 15 minutes excluding letting it cool off..stop being lazy, you spent 300+ dollars on a board, spend a dollar or two to wax the damn thing yourself..


Not to disagree with anyone here about waxing your own brand new board before taking it out, but I was pretty impressed with the factory wax job my my wife's Arbor Push. I agree that just about all factory wax jobs suck, but this was a nice one that still had some wax left on the edge and you could easily get some wax under the fingernail if you ran your thumb down it.

On the OTHER hand, I wasn't too impressed with my Arbor Roundhouse's factory wax job. Strange, I know.

And I second the assessment of the Titan TX. I got a lightly used one for dirt dirt cheap on Ebay last September. It's a solid board and fuck is it ever a fast base, but you had to be on your game at all times or it'd make a bitch out of you. If you're riding just to have a relaxing fun time, go for something else, like a Legacy or possibly a Heritage X if you're a big mountain type.


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## RidePowder (Oct 30, 2008)

big tip when waxing, if the wax smokes, turn down the heat. That is all

edit:^^ you dont want wax buildups that deep that you said were on your wifes arbor. what you want is a smoot, THIN, shiny finish. usually shaped with a combination of brushes, I have a 4 brush process I use on ever board I was, in order to break down the layer and polish it silky smooth


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## MunkySpunk (Jan 7, 2009)

I didn't say you could break off chunks of wax and eat them, just that it was a good wax job for a factory. 

And the four brush approach is good, if you're in competitive time trials. For me, good enough is good enough for just fuckin' around on a freeride.


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## RidePowder (Oct 30, 2008)

I notice a huge difference when I brush vs when I just scrape and scotchbrite. especially on softpack, pow not so much


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## BurtonAvenger (Aug 14, 2007)

Am I the only one that liked buttering the titan?


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## RidePowder (Oct 30, 2008)

if I had the opportunity to ride as many boards as you BA I might be able to comment, but NS is one of the many brands of snowboards I have yet to ride


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## DC5R (Feb 21, 2008)

RidePowder said:


> if I had the opportunity to ride as many boards as you BA I might be able to comment


+1. Seriously BA, you might have one of the best jobs on Earth :thumbsup:


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## BurtonAvenger (Aug 14, 2007)

It's only a job if you make it a job. I made it a part of my lifestyle.


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## Guest (Mar 21, 2009)

Since we're talking about waxing... stupid question: Do you Scotch Brite then brush, or brush then Scotch Brite? I've seen it done both ways in instructional videos.


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## I need a name (Mar 5, 2009)

Seedy J said:


> Since we're talking about waxing... stupid question: Do you Scotch Brite then brush, or brush then Scotch Brite? I've seen it done both ways in instructional videos.


1=

1. Iron on
2. Let cool
3. Scrape off
4. scotch brite pad
5. Stiff nylon brush
6. Non-scratch scotch brite pad (Not quite as abbrasive, this step isn't needed unless you are riding in pow.)
7. Soft horsehair brush
8. wipe down with towel


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## Triple8Sol (Nov 24, 2008)

You should've done a hot wax by hand before using it, despite the factory wax job.


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