# Edge tuning know how



## SkullAndXbones (Feb 24, 2014)

i'm no expert but for freeriding you'll want to stick with just keeping your edges sharpened. people usually detune (shave their edges on an angle) their edges for freestyle/park riding and to eliminate any catchiness but you sacrifice edge hold when you do this. again, i'm no expert but that's how i understand it.


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

Edge Tuning, like all things Snowboarding, are basically a "Personal Preference" thing!!!!!

But as a general set of rules;

Freeride Boards = Base Edge Bevel of 1º, and a Side Edge Angle of 88º!!!!! This keeps a responsive sharp edge that is close to the snow, and ready to react!!!!!

Freestyle Boards = Base Edge Bevel of 2º, and a side Edge Angle of 90º!!!!! This keeps the edge further away from the snow, and also a more obtuse angle, because when riding boxes, rails, etc, you don't want that edge to bite to easy if you're not set up perfectly!!!!! However, you still want a sharp clean edge for when you come into, and out of your tricks!!!!!

Boarder X, Carve Boards = Base Edge Bevel 0-0.5º, and a Side Edge Angle of 88º!!!!! You really want a super responsive locked in edge, cause you are gonna need it!!!!! 

Like I said, it's only a general rule of thumb, and can be changed to suit what you like!!!!! 

As for Nose and Tail Edges, they can be De-Tuned (Blunted), as you don't really use them!!!!!

Contact Points (Widest Part of the Effective Edge) are the same!!!!! De-Tune is the way to go!!!!! 

The rest of the Effective Edge is the part that you want to stay nice and sharp, without any little burrs!!!!! (However some street, park, jib, riders like to De-Tune a small section of their effective edge between the bindings, as this helps prevent hooking up on features)

As for tuning Side Edge Angles yourself, give it a go as it's super easy!!!!! Base Edge Angles, are best left to the Shop and good machinery!!!!!

These are super easy to use, as they have the angles locked in for you!!!!! Also get a Gummy Stone, and a Diamond File, to smooth up little burrs, and tidy up areas that you've De-Tuned!!!!! 










Just remember though, you can take it off, but you can't put it back on!!!!!


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

neni said:


> I admit I have not the slightest know how abt edge tuning; if I think my edges ain't sharp enough, the local shop gives them a tuning and I have no clue what they do - or even what they _should _ do.
> 
> What's the factory edge cut? Is that good, bad, why? What edge degrees are good for what type of riding? Why? Or is the type of snow asking different cuts? If so, why? Is a shop which mostly tunes skis likely to give boards a decent tuning? Do skis n boards differ?
> 
> ...


The Willi Wiltz series on tuning. Way more information that you every need to know.

Intro & Base edge tuning





Side edge tuning





Waxing (the 1st half is relevant)





I personally use a multi-angle/edge tool for the time being.
Complete Edge Care Kit Base-Side Ski Angle Tool +3 diamonds +Gummi stone
(haven't dished out the money for file guides yet, not sure if I ever will)


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## F1EA (Oct 25, 2013)

There's two things... tuning and simple edge maintenance.

Full on tuning you may change the bevel angles. I dont change the angles because most boards come with the angle for whatever it is... ie a freestyle board will come with 2* base and 90* side; most orhers come 0 and 90 or whatever else.

I think pro ski tuners know MORE about tuning than strictly snowboard people; mostly because they are more experienced (ie more skis than snowboards, and skis use more edges since they ride ice and hardpack more. Also, skiers race more so they go for all this performance stuff; there's also about 2x the anmount of edges on skis hehehe). So yeah.... but still, places like Underground Tuning in Whistler are suuuuuper good. They tuned my board last yr and the thing is mega sharp and edges super smooth. 

Normal maintenance.... i just sharpen if the edge get a beating. Then smooth it out with a gummy stone (i have a Bakoda which has both coarse and fine grain). Basically... this just smoothes the edges after you use the grinder file or simply scratched things up while riding.

In powder.... be it freeride or whatever, edges don't matter. I still keep the edges decent on my powder boards because eventually you hit groomers after the pow is done.

Pro tuners use a guide for the gummy stones. This basically keeps your edges smooth and does not alter the angles at all. I dont, but if i had a stone guide i'd use it. 

So in general.... it's no big deal. Keep your bevel angles at whatever they came at. Smooth out your edges if they got shredded. Do a full tune like once a season if your boards get a beating or if you feel you want optimum edges. 

Personally, i'd rather have the edges well kept than totally dull/scratched. Takes 10mins to do a board and you'll feel better when you do need the edges. All you really need is the gummy stone for this. I also don't de-tune the contact points, it's easy to do, but i would rather have the extra grab than sliding out when i need an edge.

When in pow..... just smile at life.


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

Gummy stones.... I don't think there are guides for that.

Guides for files and diamond stones... yes. Dedicated base bevels and edge bevel guides can add up to a lot of money (if you want to get the complete kit, or some the ones you use).

Hence, getting the multi-angle guides, for less money.

Those of us on the Ice Coast, it doesn't matter if you're on skis or snowboard, things tend to get icy for us, so edge sharpness does matter.


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## F1EA (Oct 25, 2013)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> Gummy stones.... I don't think there are guides for that.
> 
> Guides for files and diamond stones... yes. Dedicated base bevels and edge bevel guides can add up to a lot of money (if you want to get the complete kit, or some the ones you use).
> 
> ...



Yeah I used diamond and gummy interchangeably. 
They do almost the same..... smooth out the small burrs. You can also DIY a guide for either.

Use a diamond with a guide if you want a better overall job. Use the diamond or gummy with no guide if you just want sinple maintenance.

People who ride icy conditions need to pay more attention to edges.


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## Bones (Feb 24, 2008)

neni said:


> What's the factory edge cut? Is that good, bad, why? What edge degrees are good for what type of riding? Why? Or is the type of snow asking different cuts? If so, why? Is a shop which mostly tunes skis likely to give boards a decent tuning? Do skis n boards differ?


Factory angles differ from brand to brand (Never Summer is 0 & 90) but most are around 1 base and 89 side. Obviously check with your maker.

What angles are good for what? That depends on where and how you ride. A flat base bevel (ie zero) is good in that you don't need to tilt the board much to engage the edge....so pretty responsive. Also bad in that any side slip at all may well result in catching an edge. So park riders may well like a 2 degree base bevel, but might complain of the board feeling "sloppy" when carving because they have to tilt the board that much more to engage the edge. Most freeriders fall somewhere in between. 

Side angles are chosen based on your base bevel. Typically you want to keep the overall angle at 90 degrees, so if you have 1 degree on the base go with 89 on the side. If you ride a lot of ice (real east coast boiler plate), you might want to make the corner 89 degrees instead of 90 as it will be a bit sharper. It will dull a little faster though.

Once you've got the angles set, it all becomes a question of keeping it smooth and polished.

Personally, I get my edges sharpened at the beginning of the year at the shop and then maintain them throughout the season with gummi and diamond stones whenever I wax. Typically a few passes with a red diamond stone is all it takes and sometimes not even that.

A good shop can do good edges on anything, ask around. Unfortunately, things are only as good as the tech though. A stoned guy operating a high-end Winterstiger won't produce great edges.


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## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

Bones said:


> Factory angles differ from brand to brand (Never Summer is 0 & 90) but most are around 1 base and 89 side. Obviously check with your maker.
> 
> What angles are good for what? That depends on where and how you ride. A flat base bevel (ie zero) is good in that you don't need to tilt the board much to engage the edge....so pretty responsive. Also bad in that any side slip at all may well result in catching an edge. So park riders may well like a 2 degree base bevel, but might complain of the board feeling "sloppy" when carving because they have to tilt the board that much more to engage the edge. Most freeriders fall somewhere in between.
> 
> ...


They'll be better than great.:embarrased1:

Cause that stoner is gonna double & triple check everything, *Before *he does anything,

So they'll be better, sharper, stronger. haha.

It will just take 10-20 min longer, but fuck will they be sharp.


TT


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

Great info, thnaks guys! Gonna check at the local shop what side n base bevel they usually apply


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## F1EA (Oct 25, 2013)

neni said:


> Great info, thnaks guys! Gonna check at the local shop what side n base bevel they usually apply


They should be able to apply any angle you ask for. Or ask them to recommend angles for your riding.

Wht they ussually/normally/commonly apply depends on who they cater the most to. If they cater the ski racing club, itll probably be a 88* side bevel. So if you're going to Japan let them know 

For your riding 90* side and 0* base should be ok. Maybe 1* base and 90* side if you want to work the base angle.


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## rpadc (Mar 10, 2014)

Any idea the pros and cons of machined versus hand tuning?

All three of my nearby shops told me they use a machine.

I already got waxing supplies. Considering adding some edge tools to my kit and save more $$$.


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

rpadc said:


> Any idea the pros and cons of machined versus hand tuning?
> 
> All three of my nearby shops told me they use a machine.


And a follow up question: what about magnetraction and machined edge tuning?


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

Machines are gonna be a lot more accurate!!!!! 

But nothin beats the satisfaction of doin it yaself!!!!!


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## Snow Hound (Jul 21, 2012)

My first lesson after buying my first board and my instructor tells me to learn how to service my own kit. It's Important to be in tune so to speak with your equipment once you reach a certain level.


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## rpadc (Mar 10, 2014)

neni said:


> And a follow up question: what about magnetraction and machined edge tuning?


Gotta upvote this question. Was eyeballing my board trying to figure out its base and side bevels, then wondered how you put magnetraction through a machine without ruining it.


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## deagol (Mar 26, 2014)

this is so detailed, it makes my eyes glaze over. they seem to think that hand tuning is more precise than a machine..


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## Bones (Feb 24, 2008)

Mizu Kuma said:


> Machines are gonna be a lot more accurate!!!!!
> 
> But nothin beats the satisfaction of doin it yaself!!!!!


Yes and no

If you get a machine in a shop with experienced techs who take the time to secure the board well, touch up the work hardened spots in advance, etc., then machines do a really good, accurate job.

If you have a tech who only only got shown how to work the machine once by some other guy, then you'll get a base bevel that varies along the length, but you'll get it in 10 minutes.


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

Bones said:


> Yes and no
> 
> If you get a machine in a shop with experienced techs who take the time to secure the board well, touch up the work hardened spots in advance, etc., then machines do a really good, accurate job.
> 
> If you have a tech who only only got shown how to work the machine once by some other guy, then you'll get a base bevel that varies along the length, but you'll get it in 10 minutes.


Same can be said with a manual job!!!!!

The tool's as only good as the tradesman!!!!!


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## Bones (Feb 24, 2008)

Mizu Kuma said:


> Same can be said with a manual job!!!!!
> 
> The tool's as only good as the tradesman!!!!!


True enough.

So many suburban shops can't get or keep good techs so they lease the winterstiger machines that do everything and let their new hires pump boards and skis through them. Usually these places don't offer hand waxing or sharpening so you know it's all machine done. 

In the hands of an experienced tech, those machines are great. In the hands of a novice, they're.....well....fast


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## rpadc (Mar 10, 2014)

Bones said:


> So many suburban shops can't get or keep good techs so they lease the winterstiger machines that do everything and let their new hires pump boards and skis through them. Usually these places don't offer hand waxing or sharpening so you know it's all machine done.


And now I'd sold on doing it myself. Already got ptex for light base repair and waxing tools but was intimidated by edge tuning. I can't ruin my boards if I start out very conservatively. I think using a black marker helps in that regard. Now I just have to determine what bevels I have. (My eyeball says 90º?)

About magnetraction...

Shorter tool allows you to follow the dips and bumps more closely:
One Ball Jay Magne-Traction Edge Tuning Snowboard Tool - Free Shipping

Just go slow so you can follow the wave.

More from the forums (there's a lot more... I should have searched first! :facepalm3

http://www.snowboardingforum.com/boards/35083-sharpening-magnetraction.html


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## deagol (Mar 26, 2014)

I admire those who have the will and patience to tune their own boards. I will do waxing, but don't mess with the edges anymore. I have a local shop that deals with ski racers mostly and they came highly recommended, so it's worth it to me to take my boards there. 

If I could quit my job and ride full time, I would probably figure it out and tune my own boards, but with a job, it's too draining.


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## Bones (Feb 24, 2008)

rpadc said:


> but was intimidated by edge tuning. I can't ruin my boards if I start out very conservatively. I think using a black marker helps in that regard.


Hit up a garage sale and buy an old board/ set of skis for $5. Practice on that. It's not hard to learn but it's nice not having the paranoia of doing it on your good board the first time.


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## rpadc (Mar 10, 2014)

Bones said:


> Hit up a garage sale and buy an old board/ set of skis for $5.


I'm confident enough to start on my beater/rock board. No magnetraction. I'm DIY inclined. Still need a few tips...

I want to clean up some burrs, touch up my side edges and leave my base edges alone. I'm thinking I just need a gummy stone and one of those files that fit into a guide. Don't think I need to detune my contact points as I've learned how to ride on full camber, have caught edges a few times, eaten shit and survived. Ice coast life.

Rossi customer service tells me my Jibsaw is 1.5 base and edge bevel. I haven't seen any of those guides with that angle. What about adjustable ones? I think they cost a ton though.


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## Lamps (Sep 3, 2011)

deagol said:


> this is so detailed, it makes my eyes glaze over. they seem to think that hand tuning is more precise than a machine..


Best resource I've found on this topic


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

rpadc said:


> I'm confident enough to start on my beater/rock board. No magnetraction. I'm DIY inclined. Still need a few tips...
> 
> I want to clean up some burrs, touch up my side edges and leave my base edges alone. I'm thinking I just need a gummy stone and one of those files that fit into a guide. Don't think I need to detune my contact points as I've learned how to ride on full camber, have caught edges a few times, eaten shit and survived. Ice coast life.
> 
> Rossi customer service tells me my Jibsaw is 1.5 base and edge bevel. I haven't seen any of those guides with that angle. What about adjustable ones? I think they cost a ton though.


There's plenty of tools that do half degree angles!!!!!

FK Tools Edge Trick side deburr guide


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## rpadc (Mar 10, 2014)

Mizu Kuma said:


> There's plenty of tools that do half degree angles!!!!!
> 
> FK Tools Edge Trick side deburr guide


That's a sweet tool! Thanks!

So what stone should I also get? If I'm not detuning my contact points, I don't need a hand file, right?


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

Mizu Kuma said:


> There's plenty of tools that do half degree angles!!!!!
> 
> FK Tools Edge Trick side deburr guide


that tool with the 30mm DMT would be good for Magnetraction also.


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

rpadc said:


> That's a sweet tool! Thanks!
> 
> So what stone should I also get? If I'm not detuning my contact points, I don't need a hand file, right?


The Diamond Stone shown in it will be perfect for keeping a nice clean sharp edge, just that it won't take out big gouges etc, like a file will!!!!! That can be a good thing though, if you're starting out in the world of self tuning!!!!!

You can de-tune with the diamond file by just taking out of the guide, and using it by hand!!!!! It'll just take a bit longer to remove that sharp edge than it will with a file!!!!! If you do use a file to de-tune, it's always good to finish off with a diamond, or a gummy!!!!!


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