# K2 Cinch strap problems...Any advice?



## surf-the-earth (Oct 10, 2010)

Hey, everyone. I was wondering if anyone here uses the K2 Cinch CTX bindings. I've had mine since last season and absolutely love them with one exception...the traditional front straps are a killer to release. Most of the time, I use the back lever lock to get in and out pretty quickly in between runs which is awesome. But when I do want to use the traditional straps (eg. on a steep incline or just after wiping out), I find it really tough for the straps to release.

Has anyone else had this problem? Any advice on how to fix it or has K2 come out with a more user friendly strap system this year? Thanks in advance.

STE


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## Rufus (Nov 7, 2008)

My wife had the same problem, we solved it by putting the Cinches in a box in the garage and mounting Burton Lexas on her board.


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## Leo (Nov 24, 2009)

Rufus said:


> My wife had the same problem, we solved it by putting the Cinches in a box in the garage and mounting Burton Lexas on her board.


LoL :laugh:

I have two solutions for you:

Flow NXT-ATSE Snowboard Bindings 2011

Flow NXT-FSE Mens Snowboard Bindings 2011

Don't be fooled, you can strap in and out like traditional bindings with these too


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## notter123 (Nov 11, 2010)

or instead of buying new bindings...... cuz not everyone can just go out and buy new bindings.... hahaha

i have the 2010 ctc's and i had that problem for a while too last year, but just use them a bit more and they will work fine eventually........ mine did atleast!


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## Leo (Nov 24, 2009)

notter123 said:


> or instead of buying new bindings...... cuz not everyone can just go out and buy new bindings.... hahaha
> 
> i have the 2010 ctc's and i had that problem for a while too last year, but just use them a bit more and they will work fine eventually........ mine did atleast!


That's a sound argument sir.

Yea, that's a good suggestion. Just play with the ratchet. Keep tightening and releasing it until it loosens up.


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## notter123 (Nov 11, 2010)

Leo said:


> That's a sound argument sir.
> 
> Yea, that's a good suggestion. Just play with the ratchet. Keep tightening and releasing it until it loosens up.


the back strap lock thing, i dunno what its called is wearing out on mine so i probably use the normal ratchet system the same amount as using the quick release thing...... it doesnt bother me cuz I dont board with any skiiers so not in a rush to strap in... and come to think of it Mine are the 2009's I'm cheap..... but yes definetly just use the ratchets more and it wont be near as bad


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## surf-the-earth (Oct 10, 2010)

Okay, I guess I'll just try to use the ratchets more to "break 'em in." I use the back level lock a lot since I board here in the midwest with pretty short runs, and I feel like I get more runs in since it takes me like 4 seconds to strap in and go. Oh well, I guess there's no such thing as a perfect binding. The Burton binding ratchets are definitely butter. Wish I could have the best of both worlds in one set of bindings. Thanks for the advice.


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## KIRKRIDER (Mar 18, 2008)

Why use the ratchet in a back - entry binding? Only time I needed to , was in 5 feet powder...stepping out of the board. but yes, use some lubricant, use them a bit more. they will loosen up.
Love MY CTX.


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## notter123 (Nov 11, 2010)

hahaha not to thread jack but the hill a ride is 110 vertical feet, it takes literally 45 seconds to go from the top right to the lift line..... and I use the normal Ratchets cuz I'm a college student and cant replace any of my gear until I'm done school and I already had to replace one quick release lock because it would snap up but then unsnap like half way down..... and it was due to being used so much....... so thats why I use the normal ratchets sometimes.


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## surf-the-earth (Oct 10, 2010)

Pawlo, I mainly try to use the ratchets when I'm trying to strap in on a steeper run, especially the runs that have an incline coming right off the top of the lift and its not so flat. Do you have a trick for getting in to your CTX bindings while you're already on an incline coming off the lift? For me, its kinda difficult not to already be moving forward downhill while I'm still trying to get my back leg in while using the back entry binding.


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## KIRKRIDER (Mar 18, 2008)

surf-the-earth said:


> Pawlo, I mainly try to use the ratchets when I'm trying to strap in on a steeper run, especially the runs that have an incline coming right off the top of the lift and its not so flat. Do you have a trick for getting in to your CTX bindings while you're already on an incline coming off the lift? For me, its kinda difficult not to already be moving forward downhill while I'm still trying to get my back leg in while using the back entry binding.


Yes...
I turn as soon as I can out of the unloading area, and stop on a gentle angle slope. Right side. Go down on my left fist (I ride regular) ) and incline the board about 15 degrees to let the edge catch. I slide my second foot in, keeping this sort of "football" position (as In US football) one hand down , the other pulling up the highback of my rear binding...lean a bit backward to align your calf with the highback and snap it in place. Done.

the whole thing takes about 6 seconds, and you don't need to sit. You can also do it on the lift if you're alone, or standing...but it's actually more comfortable going down on one hand for the time needed to pull the binding close.

when I slide away, all other riders are still "trick trick trick" ratcheting around  As I was before on my Cartels.

I keep both toe in front position, and I got a pair of Burton Driver X boots, they have a lower profile, and slide in the [email protected] really easily.
I used the ratchet once...to get out of the board in waist deep pow.


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## surf-the-earth (Oct 10, 2010)

Cool, I'll try that "football" position trick with one hand down. Thanks for the advice, man. Before, I was doing the "balancing on the left leg" while I was upright, trying to slide my right foot in on the back binding. It works well on flats off the lift on some runs, but not very well on inclines immediately off the lift on other runs. I'll try your method on those. Thanks again.


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## KIRKRIDER (Mar 18, 2008)

surf-the-earth said:


> Cool, I'll try that "football" position trick with one hand down. Thanks for the advice, man. Before, I was doing the "balancing on the left leg" while I was upright, trying to slide my right foot in on the back binding. It works well on flats off the lift on some runs, but not very well on inclines immediately off the lift on other runs. I'll try your method on those. Thanks again.


Welcome! I find that method more adaptable to all terrain..better than spend time finding a flat spot...


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## Leo (Nov 24, 2009)

I use Flows and always kick in on inclines. I turn my backside to down the mountain, dig my front toe edge into the snow while leaning to my left (I'm regular) and kick my rear foot in. I also bend at my knees a bit.

I can also kick in while on the lift so long as I'm not sitting with someone directly next to me. I can also step in while still moving after leaving the lift (as I slow down) and just lock the highback on the way down. Not too familiar with the angle of entry for Cinches though. With Flows, I just kick in directly from the rear.


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## surf-the-earth (Oct 10, 2010)

Hey, Leo. Yeah, I think it maybe a bit easier to get in the Flows since the highback goes most of the way down. The K2 Cinch's highback only goes half of the way down, but the straps also elevate as well. So, its kind of like sliding your foot into a slipper. I can get in and out really fast on flat spots, but it gets trick once on an incline. I've also tried to kick in the slope with my left toe edge to dig in for some stability, but it doesn't seem to work to well. I'll just keep practicing different methods. But, thanks for the suggestions.


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## edlo (Jan 24, 2011)

*Replacing Cinch Strap - Cinch Luver*

Sorry for any grammar errors. I know this is an old thread but still pretty high on a google search when I searched " replace cinch strap" so I'll add my experiences to it, more of a warning. I'm sure the originally poster has solved their problem. I switched the strap because of the powder reason. K2 designed the straps not to move easily. If you look at the buckle , you can see the bumps to add friction to the sides of the strap. I have the older cinch and it was pretty easy to change out the strap with a Burton toe strap. Here is the problem. When you are not strapped in and you accidentally hit the buckle with your free foot, it can significantly tighten the strap and you might not be able to lock the highback without loosening the strap first. if you adjust the strap so the ratchet can't be kicked tighter , you lose the ratcheting functionality. You can always loosen the strap on the lift. Using rear entry and tightening is still faster then sitting down and you can do it while moving. I rode it for about 15 days. Then I switched the bindings to the new Ride Contraband. The Contraband were almost just as easy to get into, they were super light unmounted but by the time they are mounted I couldn't tell the difference, boots, boards, helmet, jacket, phone, food, wallet, there are so many places to shave the weight. I like the g-string strap so much , I bought a used set just for the straps, removed the toe plate, and took a drill to the metal baseplate to drill a hole, I used on of the existing holes. The new cinch are plastic, I don't think the modification would be as easy, might need longer screws and locktite. I left the outside strap to mimic the "metal fence" of the Contraband. I still have the problem with the accidental tightening ,but I just loosen the strap on the lift. When I lock the highback, I push down the strap then give it maybe 1 or two ratchets. It literally takes about 3 seconds more, but escaping in the powder is so easy. I know the easy solution is to just not fall. 

The easy no turning back way to customize the strap , is to shave the edges just a little of the tooth straps on both sides to allow free movement. I say no turning back, because I haven't figured out how to remove the original straps on the new model, so do at your own risk. I've been using for about 3 seasons now.

The reason I don't like the flows, are too many people say you need to break them in, or keep adjusting the cable to get the high back to fall down. I don't go often enough to waste time fiddling with them. My wife had flows, I tried to break them in with putting the board upside down and using a blow dryer to the cable. I got her a pair of Cinch and she now loves them, so much they she bought a second pair for her other board. 

I'm not a marketing mastermind, but if K2 just sold different strap color options, I think they'd sell more, yes people still buy stuff for the way they look. Burton does how new technology with their new boards, but honestly would a beginner know the difference?


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## edlo (Jan 24, 2011)

*changing toe strap*

To change the toe strap, you might need to flip one of the toothed straps. You are not suppose to touch those hex screws at the toes, but I was able to remove it with 2 4mm hex wrenches, one on the inside and one on the outside. It was tight, so use loctite and put it on really tight, do at your own risk.


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