# 5150 Stroke



## Guest (Apr 13, 2010)

Hello everyone, 
You may notice this is my first post, so don't be too hard on me.. I had a good season of snowboarding and am looking for a board cause renting a couple times a season isn't worth, and it'd be cheaper if I had my own board. 

I'm looking for opinions on the 5150 stroke. It looks nice, and very affordable. This is the package I'm looking at. 

Save on 5150 Stroke Snowboard Package - Mens

I'm not exactly sure I want a symmetrical board (twin tip?)? I'm not huge into park and jumps, but I'm starting to get into that, which would be nice having a symmetrical board. I'm not sure of the advantages of a directional board, but should I look into that?

I'm 6' - 145 lbs - size 11-12 feet (depending on the shoe). 


Some side notes, is the toe cap strap on the Burton bindings sufficient for keeping your feet in? It seems like it wouldn't hold the foot Down enough, but i've heard lots of good reviews. Another thing, I read that directional boards are better for powder... why?

Thanks guys.
If there's a place with these answers, lead me in the right direction.


----------



## Rufus (Nov 7, 2008)

If you're patient, watch for bargains and do some careful shopping you can end up with a much better setup for less money. I have not had any problems with the Burton cap straps, I have a couple of pairs of Cartels and a pair of CO2 bindings.


----------



## Guest (Apr 13, 2010)

Rufus said:


> If you're patient, watch for bargains and do some careful shopping you can end up with a much better setup for less money. I have not had any problems with the Burton cap straps, I have a couple of pairs of Cartels and a pair of CO2 bindings.


Where would I go about looking for these bargains?

Thanks


----------



## Guest (Apr 13, 2010)

That's a bit of a throw-away board and boot setup. I found that in the early years of my riding, I progressed faster then (maybe because I was younger then lol), and when you progress faster, you'll see that the only thing that holds you back is your gear. 

If I were you now that its the off season, I'd start scouring the forums, classifieds or eBay for deals on a decent deck and binding setup. For boots I'd go to your local shop. Because if its one thing that really sucks is buying a boot online and finding out that it's got pressure points when you lean this way or that way. 

I'm surprised that a reputable shop like The House sells 5150 snowboards??


----------



## Guest (Apr 13, 2010)

Sounds like good advice. I definitely know the whole entry level board thing. Im a big longboarder, and i know about picking gear, and i definitely don't want a board that I'll outgrow soon enough.

I've heard a lot of great things about The House, so I'd assume their packages would be good. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## nodaysoff (Dec 4, 2008)

check out sierrasnowboard.com, they still have a good selection of boards/binding available for 70%off. My first board was a 5150 Movement, didnt really have any complaints about it.... I can say that after riding my newer boards i dont.... think.... id ....go back to the 5150...just saying.

check evogear.com too

On another note. any recommendations for a longboard under 200? Just something to cruise around, good for speed and control(. Im having a hard time finding a local shop out here that carries them. So i may end up getting it from online retailer or just waiting till i go back to NY. Just unsure which length to get 6'0 165lbs. Thx in advance


----------



## Guest (Apr 14, 2010)

Ill check that out, thanks. 

As for longboards, most purchases will happen online, since longboarding is mostly crap in stores. 

Mile High Skates
KrackedSkulls.com 

First board is really nice, the Earthwing superglider, for beginners to experts. The guy who runs the shop really knows his stuff and sets the boards up with the right components. This board is actually on my list next. (Board #4 lol) It's got a kicktail (like that of a skateboard) and a bit of flex. 

Second board is from a custom builder, less known. He makes some quality boards, different style, more of a carving deck, has nice flex to it. You can add a layer of glass on the bottem to stiffen it up if you don't want so much flex. If you do go with this board, get the scimitar, an upgraded M1 basically. You can choose the length, im nearly 6' also, and I like a 40-42" board.

These are only two of many boards, two that stood out to me. Of these two, I'd go for the Earthwing superglider (as you can see i'm buying one. ) The advantage of the krackedskulls is the length option. The Earthwing is 38", where the scimitar ranges from 38-46". 

Hope this helps. If you are looking for more information, Silverfishlongboarding . com is the place to go. It's the same forum style as this, longboarding style.


----------



## nodaysoff (Dec 4, 2008)

Thanx, info definitly helped:thumbsup:


----------



## Guest (Apr 14, 2010)

If your looking for a low price progressive park board, look at the k2 WWW. It's twin tipped and pretty soft. A directional board is going to have a set back stance compared to a twin/centered stance board. The directional board will help you lift the nose of the board so you don't drag in powder. If your riding groomers don't worry about that. If your going to be in the park most of the time get a twin and just slide your stance back a little if your gonna cruise in some mellow powder. 

You could probably find an older WWW for fairly cheap. they retail around the 360 range brand new. Just keep a look out for a nice board that will last you a while and you wont outgrow in a season.


----------



## Guest (Apr 14, 2010)

The problem i'm having is determining what board is good, what is bad.. It seems like every product is the best, according to the description. 

So i'll be getting a symmetrical board, how exactly do you "slide you stance back"? Not exactly sure what you mean, is there a way to move the bindings back for a set back stance? Or are you simply saying position your weight back so you don't sink in powder. 

Thanks guys.


----------



## Guest (Apr 14, 2010)

By sliding your stance back I mean moving your front and back binding towards your tail by a set of bolt patterns causing your wait to be more towards the tale of your board. Most all mountain boards are already set back, but are designed for this. By sliding the stance back on a centered stance board you are just trying to move that wait back to your tail so you can lift up your nose of your board more easily. It isn't ideal to do this to your centered park board tho. It's just a sloppy way to make your board more versatile and when the boards are designed they aren't necessarily designed with this in mind. 

To tell whether a board is a quality board, stick to more known brands. Look up reviews on the boards through here or search engines to find what people have to say about them. If you can't find any reviews, it's possible that many people don't own the board or care enough to share what they think about it.


----------



## Guest (Apr 14, 2010)

bederboarder said:


> By sliding your stance back I mean moving your front and back binding towards your tail by a set of bolt patterns causing your wait to be more towards the tale of your board. Most all mountain boards are already set back, but are designed for this. By sliding the stance back on a centered stance board you are just trying to move that wait back to your tail so you can lift up your nose of your board more easily. It isn't ideal to do this to your centered park board tho. It's just a sloppy way to make your board more versatile and when the boards are designed they aren't necessarily designed with this in mind.
> 
> To tell whether a board is a quality board, stick to more known brands. Look up reviews on the boards through here or search engines to find what people have to say about them. If you can't find any reviews, it's possible that many people don't own the board or care enough to share what they think about it.


Very helpful, thanks for clarifying. The good thing is, I've got plenty of time to find a board.


----------



## Rufus (Nov 7, 2008)

viebster said:


> Where would I go about looking for these bargains?
> 
> Thanks


Check for sales at local shops and watch these web sites: sierrasnowboard, tramdock, steep and cheap, whiskey militia and brociety. With some careful shopping you can get a very nice board and bindings for $200 plus another $100 for good boots.


----------



## Snowfox (Dec 26, 2009)

Don't go with a 5150, especially a package. I haven't really seen any packaged deals that I'd call decent. 

Some reputable brands to take a looksie at are... 
Burton (Biggest company, don't take that as meaning they're automatically the best, they just have a huge marketing budget)
k2
Ride (owned by k2, but different lineup)
Rome
Lib-Tech/GNU
NeverSummer

There are more out there (especially some smaller ones), but those are the ones that are sticking out in my head right now (Calc test, bleah). Basically at this time of the year though, you can usually start finding things for near 50% off or more and basically build your own package. 

Directional boards will usually be better at freeriding (not so much jumping, tricks, or rails, but more groomers and backcountry). These are not designed to really ride switch. 
TwinISH boards will be a bit better in the park than directional boards, but they'll still be a bit more oriented towards freeriding (not a pure twin). 
Twin boards are usually meant for park. 

The above is obviously a generalization, but for the most part it's true. 


Last piece of advice for the moment...
Spend as much money as you can on boots and buy them IN STORE (or be an asshole and waste their time trying them on before buying online). My boots are actually my most expensive piece of equipment at the moment. :laugh:


----------



## Guest (Apr 14, 2010)

Thanks guys. I'll definitely keep a heads up on those websites for good deals.


----------



## Guest (Apr 15, 2010)

Another quick question, since I never really have a chance to try out boards.. Does a couple of CM make a big difference? I had a 160 went I was renting most recently, I'm 6'. It felt fine, but then again, I really have nothing to compare it to. 

Thanks.


----------



## Guest (Apr 15, 2010)

Boards will have a sizing chart to compare weight with the specific board. All boards have different weight ranges to a certain CM. A smaller board will be more maneuverable than a longer board, but a longer board will give more of a dig in shoot out turn (a nicer carve) than a washed out sliding turn of a smaller board. 

Smaller boards are more park/jib/groomer oriented, but do what ever feels good under your feet.


----------



## Guest (Apr 15, 2010)

I'm really wondering how a 160 would ride compared to a 159.. Can you tell a difference with a 1 CM difference?? 

Another little question... Does any binding fit any board?


----------



## Guest (Apr 15, 2010)

Just an update... Been looking at some Burton boards, possibly the Burton Hero or Guru? Hero is more park oriented, Guru more freeride. Not sure which I'd prefer. I definitely want to get into park more (for now i've Just done some Jumps and boxes), but I don't want a completely park oriented.. 

Right now I'm leaning towards the Hero, pretty cheap - $225 on Sierra Snowboards.


----------



## Snowfox (Dec 26, 2009)

viebster said:


> I'm really wondering how a 160 would ride compared to a 159.. Can you tell a difference with a 1 CM difference??
> 
> Another little question... Does any binding fit any board?


160 compared to 159 won't be a big deal at all. The boards might handle a lot differently because of what the boards are designed to do. 

Binding wise... pretty much all of them fit any board... the only problem is with Burton's new EST system. They make some converters, but that's complicating things...


----------



## Guest (Apr 16, 2010)

You wont feel a difference in 1 or 2 cm, if they are completely different boards you might, but usually you wont.
The Burton Hero is an amazing board. I've road it myself a few times. Its really soft and really playful. The hero has the Burton ICS system, this requires the Burton EST bindings. If you don't go with the EST binding adapter plates for non-EST Burton bindings will come with the board. In my opinion if the board has the ICS system, I would make sure to get the EST bindings. It's a waste of the ICS otherwise.


----------



## Guest (Apr 17, 2010)

Too many abbreviations... lol.

No I gotcha though, i didn't think 1 or 2 CM could be that big of a deal. And the Hero does look fun. I was thinking of the EST bindings, and that 
pretty much confirmed the purchase. 

Thanks.


----------



## Guest (Apr 21, 2010)

Just want to make things clear... pretty much any board I buy will be better than the rentals? Please tell me thats true


----------



## nodaysoff (Dec 4, 2008)

Pretty much,imo. And that's mentally too, as far as your pregression goes. Just sayin


----------

