# Waxing irons



## areveruz (Jul 10, 2012)

Good all temp wax for your money: Hertel Super HotSauce Ski Wax

And as for the Iron.. go to walmart and get a cheap $7 clothes iron.. just don't be an idiot and you won't burn anything. It's cheap and effective.

Also, there's a ton of posts on here that already answer this question. Just do a quick search and you'll get all kinds of answers. I'm pretty sure there's even a sticky somewhere with video's Snowolf made showing you how to do it properly.


----------



## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

Been looking around for some affordable all-temp bulk wax...found this $20/lb to be the cheapest...plus the Bluebird guys are rad. Maybe even our local shop can order us some.

Bluebird Wax All-Temp Bulk Wax Wax at Bluebird Wax and Snowboards


----------



## Lamps (Sep 3, 2011)

Rookie09 said:


> I'm thinking about buying my own iron and wax to keep my board fresh without spending too much taking it in to the shop. I'm planning on riding about 15-20 times per year or so. Will it be worth it or is it cheaper to bring it into the shop 3 or 4 times a year ($15 per wax)? Also, what is a good iron that won't frustrate me for a really cheap price (I'm looking to spend less than $40 if possible). Also, a cheap all-temp wax that works well? Other than that, is all I need a scraper and buffer? Any other advice on waxing would be appreciated as well. Thanks!


You need a brush too. Not sure what you mean by a buffer, if you mean buffer like car wax buffer you don't need that. 

Many how to wax videos on YouTube, it's easy to do, saves money and trips to the shop.


----------



## Rookie09 (Sep 5, 2012)

Thanks guys. I hear that clothes irons suck because their temperatures fluctuate so much. Will this be a big problem or is it workable? And by a buffer I mean one of those green things that are sometimes used after the wax is scraped to get it all glossy looking and give it some groves


----------



## SimonB (Oct 13, 2010)

Rookie09 said:


> Thanks guys. I hear that clothes irons suck because their temperatures fluctuate so much. Will this be a big problem or is it workable?



I used to have a cheap clothes iron. It can't say it doesn't work. I now have a real waxing iron (cost 50$ CND). Works WAY BETTER. As you said, the temperature is much more stable on a waxing iron. If you wax 2-3 times in a season, you can get away with it. 

With the crappy man-made snow last season, I waxed 3 boards once a week, plus some friend's board once in a while. The waxing iron was a good investment.


----------



## RaID (Aug 27, 2009)

Rookie09 said:


> Thanks guys. I hear that clothes irons suck because their temperatures fluctuate so much. Will this be a big problem or is it workable? And by a buffer I mean one of those green things that are sometimes used after the wax is scraped to get it all glossy looking and give it some groves


Ive used both an old crap clothes iron and dedicating waxing iron. While the waxing iron was nicer, i didnt find any major issues using an old clothes iron, once you get used to its temperature range you can easily work with. 

Personally Ill keep using my clothes iron, does the job and it was free. Depends how many boards and how often youre going to be waxing your board.


----------



## jdmccright (Apr 8, 2011)

Rookie09 said:


> Thanks guys. I hear that clothes irons suck because their temperatures fluctuate so much. Will this be a big problem or is it workable? And by a buffer I mean one of those green things that are sometimes used after the wax is scraped to get it all glossy looking and give it some groves


Wax irons are not worth the cost for most people. I wax my board almost every tine I ride on the ice coast and the cheap irons have never failed me. If you have some common sense you will be alright. I also use paraffin wax for my hot scraps because its way cheaper than even the cheapest ski wax.


----------



## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

Small travel iron from thrift store…$2…most don’t have holes

Cheap wax, just use canning wax/paraffin…$5/lb at the grocery store. All ski/board was is 85-95% paraffin…a standard hydrocarbon…the rest is majical unicorn goat balls. I been using canning wax mixed with a bar of goat turds (free with an order or has been swag from a movie)…1# wax with 1 bar of sb wax…. melted and poured in to a mold like a plastic yogurt tub or ice cube tray. Be careful to use a hot water bath or microwave to melt (do not use over a open flame….gas stove) ….wax is highly flammable. 

If you use the crayon technique to wax…it will last a few of years of waxing every other time out. And with this method you really don’t need to scrape or buff; one run down will do it for ya. So total $...$10 and total time to wax…10 minutes and no mess on your mom’s coffee table.

Been using this for 4 years, no problems or issues...more $ for riding.


----------



## Rookie09 (Sep 5, 2012)

good to know. I only have 1 board to wax. maybe 2 if my bro wants me to wax his as well. i figure i'd normally wax every 3-5 times out. should you wax more or less if you ride more park?

Also, how do you know when the iron is warm enough and when it is too hot? I don't wanna be burning a $400+ board.


----------



## inpajamas (Oct 20, 2011)

http://www.snowboardingforum.com/boards/7010-guides-waxing-tuning-board-repair.html

this is the dedicated thread for waxing and stuff. i'd go through that first. i just read through some of it the other day, and it had more information than i even thought i would need to know, plust snowolf posted videos. all really helpful stuff.


----------



## Rookie09 (Sep 5, 2012)

inpajamas said:


> http://www.snowboardingforum.com/boards/7010-guides-waxing-tuning-board-repair.html
> 
> this is the dedicated thread for waxing and stuff. i'd go through that first. i just read through some of it the other day, and it had more information than i even thought i would need to know, plust snowolf posted videos. all really helpful stuff.


Thanks for that! I'll check it out


----------



## Rookie09 (Sep 5, 2012)

When you're scraping the wax off, would it be a good idea to stand the board up and lean it against a wall at like a 60 degree angle so you can scrape downward? It seems like this would be easier. If not, why not?


----------



## hktrdr (Apr 3, 2012)

Rookie09 said:


> When you're scraping the wax off, would it be a good idea to stand the board up and lean it against a wall at like a 60 degree angle so you can scrape downward? It seems like this would be easier. If not, why not?


Yes, you can do that. But no, it generally is not easier - some of the issues with this approach:
- Can be difficult to keep the board stable
- Can scratch or nick the top sheet at the nose or tail depending on the surfaces
- Can be difficult to maintain even pressure and angle with the scraper as the board flexes.


----------

