# Edge Angles for Advanced All Mountain Rider?



## deagol (Mar 26, 2014)

this is a pretty good reference..
Tuning - The Carver's Almanac


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

advanced all mtn...keep it at 0 and 90....if you have trouble...ride better.


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## deltout (Jan 10, 2014)

most burton boards come with 1* base and 1* side bevels.
the only way i liked hybrids was with 0 bevels otherwise they were loose and unpredictable.


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## CassMT (Mar 14, 2013)

deagol said:


> this is a pretty good reference..
> Tuning - The Carver's Almanac




good stuff in there, got my learnin for the day


this surprised me : "For this reason, only file the base edge after a stone grind, and then only if you really need to." well shit, could saved some serious time, and metal apparently!

0 base, 1 edge here, for no particular reason...works though, i trust it

Edit: make theat .5/1, just checked


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## Mig Fullbag (Apr 15, 2014)

On "traditional" camber, I have always liked 1° bevel with 89° or 88° edge. with detuned contact points.


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

Ugh... one more thing to learn n dial n worry about(?) Clueless ignorant here. Edges were either sharp or not sharp :laugh: The shop guy where I bring my boards to get "sharp" edges mentioned to use 0.5/2. I never questioned this. Pfwww... complicated sport...


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## vajohn (Jan 12, 2014)

You need a separate base edge bevel guide for base edge and you should not be trying to use metal files...real easy to remove too much material and f it all up...diamond stones only on a base edge bevel guide like the base beast. I usually only do side edges, typically base only once a season (can't really do base very often anyway without a base grind, so usually just do the base grind and base edge bevel once per season at same time, but can do base edge once, maybe twice in between grinds). I don't use metal files on side edges anymore either, only diamond stones. You can get a set of diamond stones for around 20 bucks. I usually just stick with factory angles.


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## kumimajava (Oct 11, 2011)

I think most of my current boards (Unity, Venture?) come with 1 degree bevel both base and edge, so i'm sticking with that.

when I was doing my own tuning for hardboot carving boards, i'd go with 0.5 degree base bevel, 88 (or 2 - depending how you measure) degree edge. I also tended to stick with diamond stones for sharpening - only used the metal file to re-set the bevel if the board had something different to begin with.


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## Oldman (Mar 7, 2012)

For the vast majority of free riders a 1 & 1 base & edge bevel will serve very well. 

Check this:

Edge Tuning for Skis and Snowboards

Scroll down for Snowboard info.


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## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

it can't possibly matter

i like the 0/0 that ships on NS


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## Argo (Feb 25, 2010)

Other than sharp on icey anything or crud/steep, I don't care about angles to much...


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## Big Foot (Jan 15, 2013)

neni said:


> Ugh... one more thing to learn n dial n worry about(?) Clueless ignorant here. Edges were either sharp or not sharp :laugh: The shop guy where I bring my boards to get "sharp" edges mentioned to use 0.5/2. I never questioned this. Pfwww... complicated sport...


Haha, same here Neni. Since I always took my board to a shop when the edges were dull, I operated under the edges are either sharp or not short assumption. But then when I looked into getting an edge sharpener and saw all the different angles I was like "Oh crap, more technical stuff to worry about". From the responses here though, it seems like edges don't matter that much. 

I guess I'll just try to figure out what angle the current edges are and just sharpen them at that angle.


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## vajohn (Jan 12, 2014)

Big Foot said:


> I guess I'll just try to figure out what angle the current edges are and just sharpen them at that angle.


They do matter, but less for areas that get a lot of good snow. Should be fine with factory angles. You can look up the angles online or just take your adjustable sharpenener and look real close with a flashlight to see which angle lines up best. My park/beater board has never been sharpened and I can absolutely tell the difference riding harpack and icy conditions.


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## ItchEtrigR (Jan 1, 2012)

I like em 1 degree bevel in the middle just a few centimeters from the inserts, detuned thru out the rest of the board.


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## CassMT (Mar 14, 2013)

the actual angles probably matter more to a racer or someone trenching, but these last few really icy days and this thread have me thinking about, within reason, going sharper. every little bit...


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## ashwinearl (Jan 19, 2010)

I went by the recommendation of the local shop. Given our hardpack and potential for ice, they suggested 1 degree base 2 degree side(aka 1 degree base 88degree side.

In the past I've run 1/1.. but then again, I am not an advanced rider


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## Cycle4Fun (Feb 22, 2012)

Given that I board the Midwest and East and much of what I ride is man made and groomed ice crystals I noticed a slight improvement between my factory tuned 0/0 edges and my tuned edges. This may have been a placebo, or just the fact that I filed the edge sharper than the factory.

I ride with a 1 degree base and 88 degree side angle. The 1 degree base makes the board just slightly less edge catchy. The side cut gives me a slightly sharper, but still strong edge at 89 degrees. 

The base edge very well may just be a placebo effect. If you riding ice or man-made snow the most important thing will be to have an actually sharp edge regardless of the angle.

Also, I wouldn't create an overall angle more than 90 deg. (less sharp) or less than say 87 (less strong, more sharpening required)

All this doesn't matter much if you get to board fresh snow or even real groomed snow. It's the hard ice and man-made stuff where edges matter.


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