# Snowboard box edges



## Raph (Feb 9, 2021)

.


----------



## Surgeon (Apr 13, 2020)

You could not put any metal pipes but it makes things a bit trickier. My mountain has a few like that and I caught and edge and faceplanted early this season when I didn’t land perfectly flat on the box. I strongly suggest you find some pipes if you can.


----------



## jstar (Sep 21, 2016)

I've built a few for the backyard, if possible use pipes.

One thing I found out is that the top sheet will contract/expand in response to temperature shifts. So to avoid the ripple effect and/or breaking, make sure you use *slotted* countersunk screw holes in the plastic top sheet.


----------



## Raph (Feb 9, 2021)

jstar said:


> I've built a few for the backyard, if possible use pipes.
> 
> One thing I found out is that the top sheet will contract/expand in response to temperature shifts. So to avoid the ripple effect and/or breaking, make sure you use *slotted* countersunk screw holes in the plastic top sheet.


Thank you!
And did you use HDPE sheets? Because I'm now reading mixed reviews on it, lots of people saying it's good and many are saying it's the cheap stuff compared to UHMW


----------



## SEWiShred (Jan 19, 2019)

UHMW is better HDPE vs UHMW | Compare Polyethylene Materials, Properties, Brands | Curbell Plastics


----------



## Raph (Feb 9, 2021)

Surgeon said:


> You could not put any metal pipes but it makes things a bit trickier. My mountain has a few like that and I caught and edge and faceplanted early this season when I didn’t land perfectly flat on the box. I strongly suggest you find some pipes if you can.


Would stainless steel metal corner (angle) pieces work? Similar to a skateboard box


----------



## Surgeon (Apr 13, 2020)

Raph said:


> Would stainless steel metal corner (angle) pieces work? Similar to a skateboard box


Wouldn’t be my first choice but definitely better than nothing. 
You could file/grind them to make them rounder and then polish them too to make sure they’re as smooth and catch-free as possible.


----------



## Raph (Feb 9, 2021)

Surgeon said:


> Wouldn’t be my first choice but definitely better than nothing.
> You could file/grind them to make them rounder and then polish them too to make sure they’re as smooth and catch-free as possible.


What would be your first choice? I’m thinking of using two small square tubes for the edges (steel). The corners are roundish. And what do you use to polish them?


----------



## Surgeon (Apr 13, 2020)

Raph said:


> What would be your first choice? I’m thinking of using two small square tubes for the edges (steel). The corners are roundish. And what do you use to polish them?


My first choice/recommendation will always be metal pipes. The round surface means the least amount of friction at any given angle.
If you're going to use a metal 90 degree edge of any type (corner, square pipe, etc) then it's better than nothing but still not ideal. That sharp corner does equal more pressure on a very tiny surface for your edge (as opposed to a round one which will distribute that pressure as your edge slightly wraps around/contours it [at a very micro level of course]) which means increased friction, which means more chances of just catching your edge or slowing your progress down enough so you go over.

When I say polish them, I mean work hard to remove ANY burr, imperfection you can along the whole lenght. It's not like a skateboarding box/rail where your trucs are round and won't ever catch anything (and where you usually wax the corner on top of that). Whatever you're using but moreso with a squared corner, file/grind to lessen that sharpness of the corner, sand to a very high grit, and yes, polish it as best as you can. The closer you are to being able to see your reflexion into it, the least your chances are of catching that edge and ruining your board or face.

Sounds overkill? Maybe to some, but I'm an old man now and it's just my experience talking. I'm still doing big air and jibbing and there's no way I'm taking the chance of knocking myself out if I can avoid it. That easiest way to avoid it: making sure the boxes and rails I ride are built to prevent that.


----------



## Raph (Feb 9, 2021)

Surgeon said:


> My first choice/recommendation will always be metal pipes. The round surface means the least amount of friction at any given angle.
> If you're going to use a metal 90 degree edge of any type (corner, square pipe, etc) then it's better than nothing but still not ideal. That sharp corner does equal more pressure on a very tiny surface for your edge (as opposed to a round one which will distribute that pressure as your edge slightly wraps around/contours it [at a very micro level of course]) which means increased friction, which means more chances of just catching your edge or slowing your progress down enough so you go over.
> 
> When I say polish them, I mean work hard to remove ANY burr, imperfection you can along the whole lenght. It's not like a skateboarding box/rail where your trucs are round and won't ever catch anything (and where you usually wax the corner on top of that). Whatever you're using but moreso with a squared corner, file/grind to lessen that sharpness of the corner, sand to a very high grit, and yes, polish it as best as you can. The closer you are to being able to see your reflexion into it, the least your chances are of catching that edge and ruining your board or face.
> ...


Okay thank you! I will use a 1/2” inch pipe on both side of my 4.5” hdpe sheet (all 8 feet long)


----------



## Raph (Feb 9, 2021)

Raph said:


> Okay thank you! I will use a 1/2” inch pipe on both side of my 4.5” hdpe sheet (all 8 feet long)


And the pipes would be stainless steel


----------

