# removing burrs from edge‏



## Cr0_Reps_Smit (Jun 27, 2009)

I have a set of diamond stones I use for taking the burrs out of my edge, most files will be too abrasive and take off more edge then you want for just taking out a few burrs.

I also don't use a file guide when I do this, just do it by hand. I figured the grit on the diamond stones is too fine to really change the angle of my edge but I could be wrong about that.


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## Efilnikufesin (Oct 8, 2011)

Just take a gummy or diamond stone and remove the burrs. Slide it across the base a few times and side a few times till it's smooth. Just file the side edge, shouldn't have to worry about your base edge bevel.


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## Extremo (Nov 6, 2008)

Cro 's right. You want to use diamond stone to polish. A file will take off too much metal and you'll end up needing base grinds and your sidewalls planed to keep it flat with the edge

I personally use different bevels on my boards so I use an SKS tool with the file to set the angle and then polish and sharpen with a set of diamond stones. The tool just helps to stay consistent. I use it so much that it's more than paid for itself.


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## kusanagi (Sep 16, 2012)

do i still need to file the edges after i have polished them with the diamond stone/gummy stone?


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## kusanagi (Sep 16, 2012)

and how does a gummy stone differ from a diamond stone


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## Cr0_Reps_Smit (Jun 27, 2009)

kusanagi said:


> do i still need to file the edges after i have polished them with the diamond stone/gummy stone?


no, that would ruin the "polish" of the edge. diamond stones should be the last step in edge maintenance.


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## Extremo (Nov 6, 2008)

kusanagi said:


> and how does a gummy stone differ from a diamond stone


Gummy and Ceramic stones are used for egde polishing too, they also come in different coarseness from rough to ultra fine. It's my understanding that the daimond stones are finer, keep their consistency longer, and are designed to fit into file guides, whereas the gummy stones are done used by hand.


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## kusanagi (Sep 16, 2012)

so I would use a file only if I wanted to tune the edges, i.e. changing the bevel angles?

so for removing minor nicks, a diamond stone would be better because its finer??

and one more stupid question, I can deburr both the side edges and the base edges without ruinging the bevel angles? the nicks come in both directions.


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## Extremo (Nov 6, 2008)

kusanagi said:


> so I would use a file only if I wanted to tune the edges, i.e. changing the bevel angles?
> 
> so for removing minor nicks, a diamond stone would be better because its finer??
> 
> and one more stupid question, I can deburr both the side edges and the base edges without ruinging the bevel angles? the nicks come in both directions.


I change the bevel angles with the file. This usually only needs to be done once. Then I put the daimond stones in the file guide to remove the burrs with a 200 grit stone, then I put in a 400 grit stone to start the polish and finish it off with a 600 grit stone. The guide ensures you stay on the angle you set the bevel at.

The tool I use does both side and base angles.


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## eelpout (Mar 1, 2009)

Extremo said:


> I change the bevel angles with the file. This usually only needs to be done once. Then I put the daimond stones in the file guide to remove the burrs with a 200 grit stone, then I put in a 400 grit stone to start the polish and finish it off with a 600 grit stone. The guide ensures you stay on the angle you set the bevel at.
> 
> The tool I use does both side and base angles.


Curious, how often do you do the burr removal and polish?


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## Cr0_Reps_Smit (Jun 27, 2009)

generally you can feel the burrs with your hand if you run your fingers lightly down your edge. be careful doing that though cause if the burrs are bad you can get pricked or cut.

if you hit rails often you you'll find yourself de burring your edges more often then someone who just likes to bomb down groomers.


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## Extremo (Nov 6, 2008)

eelpout said:


> Curious, how often do you do the burr removal and polish?


Depends on the board. 

I have an all mountain board that I do only when the edge dulls, which I find is when it doesn't shave anything off my fingernail when I drag it accross it. I'll sharpen the edge with the 200 grit stone and polish with the 400 and 600 at the same angle as the edge (1 degree). 

My park board's edges take more of a beating so I'm less precise with them but give them more attention. Right out of the box I'll put a 2.5 degree bevel on the base and a 2 degree bevel on the side, deburr, polish and do a light detune down the entire edge(I don't take too much off because I ride mostly ice). When I get edge gouges or nicks I'll take the 200 grit stone to it until it's smooth, then polish and detune as usual. I'll do this as much as it's needed. I check it regularly, almost after ever day of riding it. It taks about 10-15 mins to get the edge back into shape.

Edit: I mean I check it every day, I don't deburr and polish it every day. You can kind of tell when it gets bad enough to need it.


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## kusanagi (Sep 16, 2012)

Burrs refer to dulling of edge through riding on granular snow/ firn/ corn snow, and nicks refer to damaged edge through collision with rocks???:dunno:


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## Cr0_Reps_Smit (Jun 27, 2009)

kusanagi said:


> Burrs refer to dulling of edge through riding on granular snow/ firn/ corn snow, and nicks refer to damaged edge through collision with rocks???:dunno:


i kinda refer to the 2 as the same, knicks being a little worse i guess. whenever i run my fingers down my edge and i feel a little catch, i'd call that a burr.


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## Extremo (Nov 6, 2008)

Cr0_Reps_Smit said:


> i kinda refer to the 2 as the same, knicks being a little worse i guess. whenever i run my fingers down my edge and i feel a little catch, i'd call that a burr.


Same for me. Treat nicks and burrs the same way. When you use a file, or even a gritty stone, it creates micro burrs that you can't see without a magnifying glass (they make these for edge work as well). That's why it's important to polish the edges with finer stones. You can feel the difference between a rough edge and a polished one.


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## ARSENALFAN (Apr 16, 2012)

So just slide the gummy or fine ceramic stone down the base edge and then side edge for minor burrs? No need for edge guide unless filing edges and taking off some good metal?


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## Extremo (Nov 6, 2008)

ARSENALFAN said:


> So just slide the gummy or fine ceramic stone down the base edge and then side edge for minor burrs? No need for edge guide unless filing edges and taking off some good metal?


I use the guide because if it has a 2-3 degree bevel (which is what I run) you can't run it flat down the base the way you'd be able to with a 0 degree flat bevel.


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## Efilnikufesin (Oct 8, 2011)

ARSENALFAN said:


> So just slide the gummy or fine ceramic stone down the base edge and then side edge for minor burrs? No need for edge guide unless filing edges and taking off some good metal?



Basically, just don't grind on the edges, just enough to take the burrs off and smooth it out.


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## kusanagi (Sep 16, 2012)

Extremo, what kind of guide are you using?

So deburring and sharpening the edges gives more grip onto icy slopes and steep narrow chutes. Any other advantages?


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## Cr0_Reps_Smit (Jun 27, 2009)

kusanagi said:


> Extremo, what kind of guide are you using?
> 
> So deburring and sharpening the edges gives more grip onto icy slopes and steep narrow chutes. Any other advantages?


it can double as a battle axe in emergencies.


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## Extremo (Nov 6, 2008)

kusanagi said:


> Extremo, what kind of guide are you using?
> 
> So deburring and sharpening the edges gives more grip onto icy slopes and steep narrow chutes. Any other advantages?


Sharpening the edge gives it more grip. Deburring and polishing allow it to ride smoother. I use an SKS multi angle edge tuner. It does both base and side edges and it holds any 70mm files and diamond stones. It allows you to keep the file and stones all at the same angle. If you've set the bevel at 2 degrees you don't want to deburr and polish at 0 or 5 degrees. Too little will fail to get all of the edge and too much will round it over and dull it. It just helps to keep it consistent.


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## kusanagi (Sep 16, 2012)

just curious, if i leave the burrs on the edge and ride on slopes with granular snow, such burrs will act as a saw and cut the snow. Will that screw up the edges even easier than riding on such snow with a deburred and sharpened edge ??


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## Extremo (Nov 6, 2008)

kusanagi said:


> just curious, if i leave the burrs on the edge and ride on slopes with granular snow, such burrs will act as a saw and cut the snow. Will that screw up the edges even easier than riding on such snow with a deburred and sharpened edge ??


If you leave the burrs it'll just create drag.


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## extra0 (Jan 16, 2010)

supposedly, you should always use some sort of stone first to de-burr the edges before using a file. Anything that hammers steel enough to nick it is actually case hardening it. The theory is: rubbing a case hardened file against a case hardened edge is not going to do anything...except maybe dull your file. The stone removes the hardened parts of the edge prior to filing.


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## kusanagi (Sep 16, 2012)

if i wanna get only one diamond stone for burrs from rocks, what degree of fineness would you suggest me?? do i need to polish the stone after some time?


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## Extremo (Nov 6, 2008)

I'm not sure that edge is salvageable. It looks like the cuts go pretty deep. You'd need to file the edge down pretty far and would need both a base grind and sidewall plane to get them even again. I'd take it to a shop...they'll do it all for $40-$50.


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## Extremo (Nov 6, 2008)

extra0 said:


> supposedly, you should always use some sort of stone first to de-burr the edges before using a file. Anything that hammers steel enough to nick it is actually case hardening it. The theory is: rubbing a case hardened file against a case hardened edge is not going to do anything...except maybe dull your file. The stone removes the hardened parts of the edge prior to filing.


Make sense. Sand down the nick even with the edge with a low grit stone so the nick doesn't directly impact the file.


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## extra0 (Jan 16, 2010)

Extremo said:


> I'm not sure that edge is salvageable. It looks like the cuts go pretty deep. You'd need to file the edge down pretty far and would need both a base grind and sidewall plane to get them even again. I'd take it to a shop...they'll do it all for $40-$50.


 agreed - that edge is pretty bad. 

However, he could do a half decent home job, if need be. Rub the base edge lengthwise with your stone, contacting the p-tex as least possible. You're not going to be able to get out all the nicks, but it'll be better than nothing. 

Then grab a file (without a handle) and wrap one end with tape so the file is lifted about 5 mm (2-3 deg) from the base. Grind the edge down, lengthwise, until it's relatively smooth (once again, this is the ghetto/home version - there's still going to be nicks, but it'll ride smoother and you'll be able to get a better edge).


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