# Looking for advice on where to go in the Alps



## Luffe (Apr 5, 2021)

TL:dNR: Looking for a place to go snowboarding in the alps. *Pow* and *off piste* is the kind of terrain we like the best, but due limitations of our legs, terrain where you can also *cruise* at *medium/high speed* without putting the brakes on for resting runs would be ideal.

So, me and my buddies are planning a trip to the Alps for the next season. We are all ~30 years old. We all like riding pow, off piste(nothing to extreme, more flowy) and cruising at medium to higher speeds on the groomers in terrain where you don't really have to put the brakes on, if that makes sense. I don't really have the legs to ride too steep terrain multiple days in a row, unless it is pow, where the snow slows you down.

We all grew up riding, so we are also trying to avoid slopes where you have to do tourist slalom and standing in long lift lines. Weather and light conditions are also important, so if it is possible to choose a place with generally better weather, it would be ideal. The experience outside of snowboarding is also important, like *afterski* and *going out for something to eat* etc.

I've been trying to do some research online, but it's not that easy I've found out. Places that has kept showing up as recommended are places like *Laax*, *St.Anton*, *Verbier* and *Kitzbuel*, but it's hard to tell what is what, as there seems to be hundreds of places down there. We are also not rich kids, so from what I've heard, we should stay away from the more expensive Switzerland. If you care to share your experience with different places in the Alps, it would be much appreciated.


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## Etienne (Apr 2, 2021)

A few ideas on where to go in France (not that Alps are limited to it but it's where I ride  ). I have to do a full write up one day.


*Tignes/Val d'Isère : *This would be my no1 recommandation. You have the French "mega-resort/area" effect, excellent groomers from tree-lines to glaciers, very nice parks (especially after the "ride the snake" event) and tons of off-piste terrains. The spreadout is ideal : nothing is to far away from a lift, but there is enough space to give you access to lots of lines (compared to 3 Vallées which is bigger but a bit more stacked). In a good week, I can barely do all my favs gravity accessed runs. If you had skins to the mix, there is more than you can do in a season. The hight altitude also means that you are guaranted some good snow no matter what.
*Chatel/Avoriaz : *One of the "core" snowboarding place. Excellent park not only in Avoriaz, but also in Chatel and les Crozets, lots of fun small backcountry runs.
*La Clusaz : *One of the "core" freestyle place too. Park is decent, but the place is full of small backcountry runs, often with kickers along the way (some shaped by Candide himself). Can be crowded on WE. Super vibrant town. Late season parties are crazy. Best cheese ever.
*La Grave :* One straight gondola to the top of the mountain, zero groomers or controlled avalanches, only wilderness with partols to give you hints. It's a place like no others, really great to experience. The two main runs are easy to navigate by yourself but will be full on moguls quickly, else get a guide if you don't have the skills, some lines can get you straight to your death. It's not necessarily worth a full trip in itself, but can be paired up with Alpes d'Huez or les deux Alpes easily.
*Haute-Maurienne : *A group of smaller freeride gems that you can access with the same pass. While not impressive resorts by themselves, they all offer great off-piste and combined quite a lot of runs. If you skin (there are special, one climb tickets), you have access to the full Vanoise range of huts. Bonneval-sur-Arc is not only beautiful, it also has the biggest snowfall in France. Queyras or La Rozière & Ste-Foy Tarentaise are in the same league (in different places…).
These are only a handful of ideas. France is usually in the cheaper price range, but is not a prime pow destination. We see some enough, especially if you know where to hunt for it, but you can defenitely have a dry week or two, it's no BC or Japan for sure.


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## LeDe (May 16, 2018)

I have mostly only been in the French Alps (3 days in Italy in Courmayeur) but for what I know there is lots of choices that will be cheaper than Switzerland for both ski lift and food. 
Dont know much about Austria so wont comment but Italy will be even cheaper than France. 

In France, the 
- Chamonix is a great place, lots a smallish resorts around, some with easy run, a couple are mostly reds and black. Not a family place I would say but for a bunch of mates it can be fun to see different resorts. If you take the Mont Blanc Pass you can also go ride in Courmayeur in Italy which is a lot of fun, great food and the groomers were just perfect from 9am to 5pm on weekdays in January. 
There is also a freeride option from Chamonix center if you get the cabine and do "Vallee Blanche" with a guide. 

- Les 3 Vallees: well that is the biggest place, so much to do, Val Thorens is a party place with the bottom at 2400m there is no trees but a lot pf really wide runs, Courchevel the high end side, my favorite, trees, some good open run. 

- Les 2 Alpes: no trees, lots of options for blue slopes when you get tired, cheaper than 3 Vallees. 
Could go to La Grave for a day trip from there. 

Tignes- Val D'Isere: went a long time ago, from what I remember a lot of challenging runs so not always able to relax on your way back at end of days.


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## Luffe (Apr 5, 2021)

Seems like both Tignes and Les 3 Vallees are great options for resort/off-piste/after ski combo, where you really can’t go wrong. Seems like Tignes gets the upper hand when it comes to finding some pow stashes if we are unlucky with the snow conditions. I’ll add them to my list of places to go.


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## Eivind så klart (Aug 30, 2020)

Laax is sweet, been there 2 times back in the days with NSBF (old version of brettforbundet) Awesome place!

Can’t speak for the other places but La Grave is awesome too, specially if you are lucky with the weather! Had some of my best runs there, just a insane place. Bring food, beer and shovels. There are some insane natural hits there that just need a tap with the shovel to send you for some huuuuge airs.


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## Luffe (Apr 5, 2021)

Laax sounds really nice. If I breathe some of that Mullair, maybe my skills will increase a little bit as well.

Har du vært på landslaget?


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## kimchijajonshim (Aug 19, 2007)

I've only ridden one resort in Europe, but having ridden I've ridden a bunch of destination resorts around Western North America and Japan... and St. Anton is one of my favorite resorts in the world. 


The terrain does trend a bit gnarlier, so may not be a great place if you want to dial back and relax a bit. 
I was really impressed by relatively high skill levels of riders and skiers at that resort. I wasn't too concerned about dodging tours or someone taking me out from behind. The only place I've ridden where I felt comparably comfortable in crowds is Jackson Hole.
The apres scene is pretty legendary and the town is cute.


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## Kevington (Feb 8, 2018)

I can highly recommend the Vorarlberg region in Austria. I spent three months there this season. Its slightly to the West of Tirol and borders Arlberg where you have St. Anton (1.5hr drive/bus away). There are no mega resorts there and far fewer tourists, its mostly locals and some Germans who drive down on the weekends. Lift lines are not really a thing. It is the snowiest area in Europe due to being the first high ground that westerly weather systems meet. There are some great small to medium sized resorts: Damüls is very snowboard-friendly, has a great park and lots of non-lethal off piste. Diedamskopf is 15 mins drive away and is great on a powder day (and for a few days after) with zero lift lines and very few frothy pow chasers to track it out. The mountains here are mostly alpine cow pasture in summer so the terrain is rolling, fun and interesting but not particularly rocky or glaciated. I rode a lot of in-bounds and sidecountry pow solo, which I wouldn't necessarily do elsewhere due to the higher risks. The majority of the pistes are in that sweet spot of being steep enough but not exhaustingly so. Lots of cruisy runs. For a mellow area that can be gnar if you want it its hard to beat. I rode the best pow of my life right under the chair just dropping slightly to the left each lap. All day long! Rome had a lodge here for a few seasons and its Gigi Rüf's home turf so you get the idea. Lift passes are also relatively cheap. I got a season pass that covered 35 resorts for under €500. 

The French resorts mentioned by @Etienne and @LeDe are also great. I'd avoid Chamonix and La Grave if you want chill terrain though, they are both gnarly spots that require serious leg work. I just got back from Avoriaz last week, I've been there a lot and its excellent. It has several parks including 'The Stash', all wooden features in a tree area that is super fun. They have a park pass for €26 that gives access to the park areas but as there are 3-4 parks on different parts of the mountain it actually covers a lot of terrain. It is also connected to the Portes du Soleil mega area that spans the French-Swiss border so you can do a full day circular route around loads of connected resorts. Its a big skier thing apparently. Plenty of aprés and food up in the village and even more down in the main town of Morzine. 

Or, if money is not an issue, just go to Laax and live the luxury life! I personally refuse to pay €80 per day but I hear its really nice.


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## Luffe (Apr 5, 2021)

Kevington said:


> I can highly recommend the Vorarlberg region in Austria. I spent three months there this season. Its slightly to the West of Tirol and borders Arlberg where you have St. Anton (1.5hr drive/bus away). There are no mega resorts there and far fewer tourists, its mostly locals and some Germans who drive down on the weekends. Lift lines are not really a thing. It is the snowiest area in Europe due to being the first high ground that westerly weather systems meet. There are some great small to medium sized resorts: Damüls is very snowboard-friendly, has a great park and lots of non-lethal off piste. Diedamskopf is 15 mins drive away and is great on a powder day (and for a few days after) with zero lift lines and very few frothy pow chasers to track it out. The mountains here are mostly alpine cow pasture in summer so the terrain is rolling, fun and interesting but not particularly rocky or glaciated. I rode a lot of in-bounds and sidecountry pow solo, which I wouldn't necessarily do elsewhere due to the higher risks. The majority of the pistes are in that sweet spot of being steep enough but not exhaustingly so. Lots of cruisy runs. For a mellow area that can be gnar if you want it its hard to beat. I rode the best pow of my life right under the chair just dropping slightly to the left each lap. All day long! Rome had a lodge here for a few seasons and its Gigi Rüf's home turf so you get the idea. Lift passes are also relatively cheap. I got a season pass that covered 35 resorts for under €500.
> 
> The French resorts mentioned by @Etienne and @LeDe are also great. I'd avoid Chamonix and La Grave if you want chill terrain though, they are both gnarly spots that require serious leg work. I just got back from Avoriaz last week, I've been there a lot and its excellent. It has several parks including 'The Stash', all wooden features in a tree area that is super fun. They have a park pass for €26 that gives access to the park areas but as there are 3-4 parks on different parts of the mountain it actually covers a lot of terrain. It is also connected to the Portes du Soleil mega area that spans the French-Swiss border so you can do a full day circular route around loads of connected resorts. Its a big skier thing apparently. Plenty of aprés and food up in the village and even more down in the main town of Morzine.
> 
> Or, if money is not an issue, just go to Laax and live the luxury life! I personally refuse to pay €80 per day but I hear its really nice.


Do you work remotely?

We will likely go to one of the larger resorts for a first trip, so I think Val D Isere, some town in St. Anton or Courchevel/les 3 Vallees is most likely from what I know at the moment. Laax/Switzerland seems expensive, so if we can get the same for less, why pay more. But it also seems like there are a ton of other great places to go.

But I also wonder how bad the lift lines are at these places around end of Jan, Feb and start of March? I’m used to my buddies starting to cry if there are more than 5 minute lines, which usually only happens at the main lifts at the resorts between 11-13 at saturdays or in the winter and easter holiday weeks over here.


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## Kevington (Feb 8, 2018)

Luffe said:


> Do you work remotely?
> 
> We will likely go to one of the larger resorts for a first trip, so I think Val D Isere, some town in St. Anton or Courchevel/les 3 Vallees is most likely from what I know at the moment. Laax/Switzerland seems expensive, so if we can get the same for less, why pay more. But it also seems like there are a ton of other great places to go.
> 
> But I also wonder how bad the lift lines are at these places around end of Jan, Feb and start of March? I’m used to my buddies starting to cry if there are more than 5 minute lines, which usually only happens at the main lifts at the resorts between 11-13 at saturdays or in the winter and easyer holiday weeks over here.


I work as an artist so I can choose my time to a certain extent. I sometimes get to participate in residency programmes, hence three months in Austria this winter. Basically I'm semi-broke but get to ride often. I have no pension or job security but I'm a snowboarder so have little concern for things like that  

I've been to 3 vallees and stayed in Val Thorens, the highest village. It was nice. Meribel is a fur coat and Ferrari type of place. Courchevel is a bit in between if I remember correctly. Its best to check the local holidays before you book. Different regions of France have school holidays at different times for example. When Paris has holidays, certain places can be busier. Also if its UK holidays try to avoid resorts popular with Brits (Val D'Isere/Tignes and Avoriaz). Ditto Germany and The Netherlands.


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## Luffe (Apr 5, 2021)

Kevington said:


> I work as an artist so I can choose my time to a certain extent. I sometimes get to participate in residency programmes, hence three months in Austria this winter. Basically I'm semi-broke but get to ride often. I have no pension or job security but I'm a snowboarder so have little concern for things like that
> 
> I've been to 3 vallees and stayed in Val Thorens, the highest village. It was nice. Meribel is a fur coat and Ferrari type of place. Courchevel is a bit in between if I remember correctly. Its best to check the local holidays before you book. Different regions of France have school holidays at different times for example. When Paris has holidays, certain places can be busier. Also if its UK holidays try to avoid resorts popular with Brits (Val D'Isere/Tignes and Avoriaz). Ditto Germany and The Netherlands.


How does the boarding compare between Val D’Isere, Val Thorens, St. Anton and Courchevel? We are looking for ski in ski out also, with decent aprees ski and hopefully good snow, but you can’t really plan for pow conditions.


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## LeDe (May 16, 2018)

If you avoid french school holidays, you wont queue much if at all in the 3 Vallees or Les 2 Alpes (assume the same is true in Tignes/Val Disere). 
In January lifts stop about 30mn earlier. I like March but obviously can be hit and miss for snow (school holidays tends to finish around 7/10 of March). I had a few fantastic march before covid, this time was not great but then it snowed a tpn pver a few days at the end of the month.


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## Kevington (Feb 8, 2018)

Luffe said:


> How does the boarding compare between Val D’Isere, Val Thorens, St. Anton and Courchevel? We are looking for ski in ski out also, with decent aprees ski and hopefully good snow, but you can’t really plan for pow conditions.


I've only been to Val Thorens (and ridden Courchevel as its the same resort) from that list. St. Anton is a big freeride destination, pow chasers from all over the world go there. The others are more all-round large resorts. Val Thorens and Val D'Isere are both very high altitude so more snowsure but more tiring to ride as a result. In general the French resorts are purpose built ski in/out villages up among the pistes. Very convenient but more or less charmless. St. Anton like most Austrian resorts, is village(s) down in the valley with a cablecar going up. France: mostly self-catering apartments, Austria: all inclusive guest houses. Aprés is what you make of it in my experience. You want to get fucked up and have a good time with your friends, you can do it anywhere. If you want to see 300 people dancing in ski boots on tables to the worst music you ever heard from 3pm to 3am then I guess Austria has the edge over France but it still gets pretty wild there too.


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## foe (Feb 10, 2017)

Luffe said:


> But I also wonder how bad the lift lines are at these places around end of Jan, Feb and start of March? I’m used to my buddies starting to cry if there are more than 5 minute lines, which usually only happens at the main lifts at the resorts between 11-13 at saturdays or in the winter and easter holiday weeks over here.


There is a UK based ski forum where they discuss this each year. Has some useful charts on which countries have their school holidays fall in which weeks: Snowheads forum: European School Holidays 2022-23


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## edi414 (Feb 20, 2018)

Havent been to the French alps but loads to Austria and Switzerland.

Aware of the risk of generalising too much: imo the difference is that Austria is the place to be if your focus is on apres ski and going out. Switzerland on the other hand is the place for serious riding. Just for reference, I've been to places like Solden, Ischgl, Serfaus, Flachau, Saalbach, etc. in Austria and Laax, Klosters, Davos, St. Moritz, Andermatt, Engelberg, etc.in Switzerland (so would say a decent benchmark  ).

I've been to Laax many, many times and love that place. Fewer (yet very modern) lifts/gondolas than most other larger resorts in the alps but long runs with endless really good off piste options right in the resort (mostly you dont even have to walk a single metre although you can get into even more areas with a bit of hiking). Most of the regular runs are very natural with ups and downs etc.; i.e. you can play with the terrain nicely where other resorts I've been at simply have pretty much straight line slops with same inclination everywhere. During the week it's usually super empty (outside of holiday season). Another huge plus for me: people know how to ski/snowboard. Other than most Austrian resorts I've been to no idiots that simply cross the whole slope without checking if someone is coming from uphill, overtaking at very tight margin, and especially no drunk people on the slopes.

Only issue can be the weather. Although it might sound a bit strange at first, you might be unlucky in case there is a lot of snowfall during your stay and depending on how long you are planning on going. Laax is very prone to strong winds during snowfall periods and usually most of the resort is then closed (plus a day or two afterwards due to avalanche blasting etc.). So if you go for one week you might end up in a situation where you can only ride 3-4 days. But with a bit of luck you had some fresh snow just before you'd get there and a few bluebird days...then there are very few places more enjoyable to ride at. Obviously staying longer than a week increases your chances (and ski pass prices are getting much more reasonable too on a per/day basis the longer you stay). And on weekends you can defo notice that the place is close to Zurich as it gets much more crowded.

My general advice: go west. With the temperatures in recent winters imo it's crucial to have peaks >2,500m to be safe with the snow. The further to the west you go in the alps the higher the peaks and therefore the better the snow conditions (at least likelihood of having good conditions). Best case of course is if you are flexible (e.g. using a camper van) and you can chase the snow 



Kevington said:


> Also if its UK holidays try to avoid resorts popular with Brits (Val D'Isere/Tignes and Avoriaz). Ditto Germany and The Netherlands.


Second that. From my experience, France generally is super popular in the UK and Austria for the Dutch and Germans.


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## Lamedog (Apr 9, 2020)

Oh no! I've just booked Val d'isere for next week. Silly me for not thinking about school holidays/Easter.

It's it going to be chaos?

Never been so late in the season hence never even considered the school schedules across Europe. The need for some snow either now or not for another year made it a no brainer.


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## Kevington (Feb 8, 2018)

Lamedog said:


> Oh no! I've just booked Val d'isere for next week. Silly me for not thinking about school holidays/Easter.
> 
> It's it going to be chaos?
> 
> Never been so late in the season hence never even considered the school schedules across Europe. The need for some snow either now or not for another year made it a no brainer.


I was chatting to some locals in Avoriaz last week and they said that when easter falls later in the year (as it does this year), that is it not as busy because a lot of people go on a beach or city holiday to somewhere warm instead. I'd guess there will still be plenty of people but not a terrible amount. Val D'isere is also a modern resort well equipped for high capacity periods so I wouldn't worry. 

Also, winter has returned so the snow is looking good. Have fun!!


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## Luffe (Apr 5, 2021)

edi414 said:


> Havent been to the French alps but loads to Austria and Switzerland.
> 
> Aware of the risk of generalising too much: imo the difference is that Austria is the place to be if your focus is on apres ski and going out. Switzerland on the other hand is the place for serious riding. Just for reference, I've been to places like Solden, Ischgl, Serfaus, Flachau, Saalbach, etc. in Austria and Laax, Klosters, Davos, St. Moritz, Andermatt, Engelberg, etc.in Switzerland (so would say a decent benchmark  ).
> 
> ...


Laax sounds like it got interesting terrain and more quality over quantity. Sounds like what I like to ride, with natural roller hits on the groomers and natural hits in the side country and trees. What other resorts are there, that are also at the western part that also got interesting terrain and not only more open and flat terrain? As long as the aprees ski and food is good enough and not crazy expensive, I'm fine. I go for the snowboarding first and foremost.


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## edi414 (Feb 20, 2018)

Luffe said:


> Laax sounds like it got interesting terrain and more quality over quantity. Sounds like what I like to ride, with natural roller hits on the groomers and natural hits in the side country and trees. What other resorts are there, that are also at the western part that also got interesting terrain and not only more open and flat terrain? As long as the aprees ski and food is good enough and not crazy expensive, I'm fine. I go for the snowboarding first and foremost.


I mean Switzerland definitely is more expensive than Austria (and presumably France). There are restaurants and bars but by no means similar to the classic Austrian resorts like Ischgl with parties at every corner. If you were to consider Laax you might want to stay in Laax itself, think they have a few more options there. The other villages connected to the resort (Flims and Falera) are quieter.

As said, there seem to be good places in France (many have been named by others above) which I can't comment on. From the places I've been to, Laax hands down is the best one imo. But I also liked Solden and Serfaus. The others for different reasons not so much (after being a bit spoiled...). Heard good things about Gurgl and Arlberg but never been either.

You could look at St Moritz. I've been there many years ago so no idea what it is like today but back then it was super posh with fur coats all over the shop. Zermatt supposedly is also great but haven't been there either (that's on my list for next year together with some places in France). I do not recommend Saas Fee.


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## Luffe (Apr 5, 2021)

edi414 said:


> I mean Switzerland definitely is more expensive than Austria (and presumably France). There are restaurants and bars but by no means similar to the classic Austrian resorts like Ischgl with parties at every corner. If you were to consider Laax you might want to stay in Laax itself, think they have a few more options there. The other villages connected to the resort (Flims and Falera) are quieter.
> 
> As said, there seem to be good places in France (many have been named by others above) which I can't comment on. From the places I've been to, Laax hands down is the best one imo. But I also liked Solden and Serfaus. The others for different reasons not so much (after being a bit spoiled...). Heard good things about Gurgl and Arlberg but never been either.
> 
> You could look at St Moritz. I've been there many years ago so no idea what it is like today but back then it was super posh with fur coats all over the shop. Zermatt supposedly is also great but haven't been there either (that's on my list for next year together with some places in France). I do not recommend Saas Fee.


The bottom line seems to be multiple trips are necessary. But I seem to have a good list of the resorts you guys like now that match up to out needs, so I’ll take that as a start.

Laax
Val D’isere
Courchevel
St.Anton

The most posh places won’t appeal to us, but nice places that are not super touristy and not only purpurpose built for tourists is nice. Some history and soul in the towns is cool. Also the hard core free ride only can be for a later trip. The pure freeriding is also possible in Norway, but those places are usually not good for aprees ski. It’s actually the same price for us to fly to the Alps and book accomodations as it is to drive 3 hours to Hemsedal or Trysil and rent some place.


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## Kevington (Feb 8, 2018)

Luffe said:


> The bottom line seems to be multiple trips are necessary. But I seem to have a good list of the resorts you guys like now that match up to out needs, so I’ll take that as a start.
> 
> Laax
> Val D’isere
> ...


Those are 4 of the poshest ski resorts in the Alps.


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## Luffe (Apr 5, 2021)

Kevington said:


> Those are 4 of the poshest ski resorts in the Alps.


Ok 😂 I thought St.Moritz and others where worse, but I guess I was wrong.


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## Kevington (Feb 8, 2018)

Luffe said:


> Ok 😂 I thought St.Moritz and others where worse, but I guess I was wrong.


Yeah I guess St.Moritz, Klosters, Megeve etc have the super rich and actual royalty going there but the others are pretty posh too. If you can afford it, just go and shred. Probably less people on the slopes due to them strutting around in furry boots. Those massive filler lips must be a nightmare for sunburn too.


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## Luffe (Apr 5, 2021)

Kevington said:


> Yeah I guess St.Moritz, Klosters, Megeve etc have the super rich and actual royalty going there but the others are pretty posh too. If you can afford it, just go and shred. Probably less people on the slopes due to them strutting around in furry boots. Those massive filler lips must be a nightmare for sunburn too.


I guess we will just have to check the prices. I’ve heard some places charge 50 Euro for lunch, which seems too much. But at the same time, I’m sure I won’t be able to convince my friends to not go to any of the big and well known places for a first trip. As long as it is not 50 euros for lunch.


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## LeDe (May 16, 2018)

In term of prices, I think all of the biggest resorts in France will be roughly the same for lift tickets. 

I read recently that Val D Isere is the most expensive place to buy accomodation which probably translate to rentals. 
I have been to Courchevel from 2008 to 2020, a friend had a family place. In people mind, Courchevel is the poshest and most expensive place. And that is true to some extent at least, but the resort has many levels, 4 or 5 villages. The highest (1850) is unattainable, luxury shops, people not even there for ski but drinking champagne. However, I was looking at the prices for rentals precovid in the other villages it was ok. 
For food on the slopes, it is also easy to find standard prices (for a french ski resort), by example one of the posh restaurant (just above the tiny private airport) has truffle pizza for 150 euro, but also a "bar" area where you can get a burger for 20. There are cheaper options at the bottoms. 
I may be a little biased obviously, I never had to pay for accomodation, and do not care about apres-ski so my expenses never seemed crazy.


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## Etienne (Apr 2, 2021)

Tignes will be cheaper than Val d'Isère (same ski Area) and for 3 Vallées, the cheapest will be Orelle, then les Ménuires probably. My favorite (and a lot of hardcore riders) in 3 Vallées is Val Thorens. Courchevel has gone absolutely mad (used to go there a lot, when my father worked there, but at some point it was not possible to rent anything anymore). If you are into huge resorts, les Arcs is definitely worth a look too (excellent off-piste too).

But don't limit France to huge ski area, they are cool and I ride them a lot, but there are some great small freeride gems everywhere, with very authentic towns. Especlially going on the "snowboard-mountaineering" side or "free-rando" (mix of lifts and skinning a bit).


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## Kevington (Feb 8, 2018)

To be honest I'm usually a dirtbag with cans of beer and a sweaty baguette in my backpack. I'm probably not the best person to ask about this stuff. However, the best lunch I had was in Courmayeur (over the Italian side from Chamonix). Family owned stone refuge in the forest just a glacier between the spot and Mont Blanc. Truly epic setting. Polenta with wild boar sausage ragout, a beer and a genepi. All for €15. If you want great food and no luxury bullshit prices, go to Italy. Austria has great local food at good prices too. Chamonix is the only place in France I found small places taking pride in local produce at decent prices. Everywhere else I expect average burgers and pizza which the price depending how fancy the resort is. Or Savoyard cuisine, which is great when done well but often just variations of too much cheese. Tartiflette, Raclette, Fondue. Kind of fun but a bit of a tourist novelty.


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## Etienne (Apr 2, 2021)

Kevington said:


> I've been to 3 vallees and stayed in Val Thorens, the highest village. It was nice. Meribel is a fur coat and Ferrari type of place. Courchevel is a bit in between if I remember correctly.


It's the opposite : Courchevel is full-on millionaire and Ferraris (saw some stuck in the snow…) luxury and Meribel is more in between (and not same style). Really, unless you are into Caviar and 4 digits wine bottles, stay elsewhere, you can still ride in Courchevel (which has the best forest riding in 3 Vallées).


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## Kevington (Feb 8, 2018)

Etienne said:


> It's the opposite : Courchevel is full-on millionaire and Ferraris (saw some stuck in the snow…) luxury and Meribel is more in between (and not same style). Really, unless you are into Caviar and 4 digits wine bottles, stay elsewhere, you can still ride in Courchevel (which has the best forest riding in 3 Vallées).


Ah yeah, I knew one was the fancy place. I do remember those trees too


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## Kevington (Feb 8, 2018)

This has some good info on resorts from a snowboard perspective. 








The Whitelines Resort Guide


Check out our latest in-depth resort reviews for the 2017/18 season




whitelines.com


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## Kevington (Feb 8, 2018)

I guess my secret spot is not so secret anymore:








Riders' Resort Guide - Damüls, Austria


A little gem with big bragging rights




whitelines.com


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## Luffe (Apr 5, 2021)

LeDe said:


> In term of prices, I think all of the biggest resorts in France will be roughly the same for lift tickets.
> 
> I read recently that Val D Isere is the most expensive place to buy accomodation which probably translate to rentals.
> I have been to Courchevel from 2008 to 2020, a friend had a family place. In people mind, Courchevel is the poshest and most expensive place. And that is true to some extent at least, but the resort has many levels, 4 or 5 villages. The highest (1850) is unattainable, luxury shops, people not even there for ski but drinking champagne. However, I was looking at the prices for rentals precovid in the other villages it was ok.
> ...


20 Euros for a burger seems ok for a resor as long as it has decent quality.


Kevington said:


> To be honest I'm usually a dirtbag with cans of beer and a sweaty baguette in my backpack. I'm probably not the best person to ask about this stuff. However, the best lunch I had was in Courmayeur (over the Italian side from Chamonix). Family owned stone refuge in the forest just a glacier between the spot and Mont Blanc. Truly epic setting. Polenta with wild boar sausage ragout, a beer and a genepi. All for €15. If you want great food and no luxury bullshit prices, go to Italy. Austria has great local food at good prices too. Chamonix is the only place in France I found small places taking pride in local produce at decent prices. Everywhere else I expect average burgers and pizza which the price depending how fancy the resort is. Or Savoyard cuisine, which is great when done well but often just variations of too much cheese. Tartiflette, Raclette, Fondue. Kind of fun but a bit of a tourist novelty.


I’m that guy at home as well, but when on vacation it is more of a logistics problem to always be prepared with food. Regular stores usually doesn’t have good options for food you don’t have to prepare, so buying out is convenient.

That family owned places sounds epic. The kind of place you remember. Maybe Italy is more the place for me. Good food really elevates everything. As long as it’s not crazy expensive.


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## LeDe (May 16, 2018)

Kevington said:


> However, the best lunch I had was in Courmayeur (over the Italian side from Chamonix). Family owned stone refuge in the forest just a glacier between the spot and Mont Blanc. Truly epic setting. Polenta with wild boar sausage ragout, a beer and a genepi. All for €15


Thaaat!!!

Same, was in chamonix for a few days in 2020, planned to go one day to Courmayeur, went 3 times and organized a 20 personnes restaurant for my brother birthday, just because of that restaurant and its owner! 

We ended up geting back down in the dark after the owner started to just give bottles away.


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## edi414 (Feb 20, 2018)

Kevington said:


> Those are 4 of the poshest ski resorts in the Alps.


Depends on your definition of "posh". For Laax: Pricewise - yes probably (as all other Swiss resorts). Posh in the sense of fur coats and unpleasant rich kids everywhere - definitely not.

If you're after the best food (at probably the best prices) then go to Italy but that shouldn't come as a surprise .


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## Turms (12 mo ago)

Lamedog said:


> Oh no! I've just booked Val d'isere for next week. Silly me for not thinking about school holidays/Easter.
> 
> It's it going to be chaos?
> 
> Never been so late in the season hence never even considered the school schedules across Europe. The need for some snow either now or not for another year made it a no brainer.


nope...a little bit more, but definitely will be not so tragic als in the Feb holidays.


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## Turms (12 mo ago)

Luffe said:


> TL:dNR: Looking for a place to go snowboarding in the alps. *Pow* and *off piste* is the kind of terrain we like the best, but due limitations of our legs, terrain where you can also *cruise* at *medium/high speed* without putting the brakes on for resting runs would be ideal.
> 
> So, me and my buddies are planning a trip to the Alps for the next season. We are all ~30 years old. We all like riding pow, off piste(nothing to extreme, more flowy) and cruising at medium to higher speeds on the groomers in terrain where you don't really have to put the brakes on, if that makes sense. I don't really have the legs to ride too steep terrain multiple days in a row, unless it is pow, where the snow slows you down.
> 
> ...


a point here about off piste. In Alps, off piste is not controlled. It is not as in USA (or Canada?) where the ski patrol controlled also the terrain between the slopes etc. If you want to go from one slope to another and you go aout from the slope signing you are OUT of the resort.
Everything outside the slopes is outside the resort. Meaning : you have to have the Avalanche equipment, and probably a insurance for resuce in such a case. 
You are alone and responsible for yourselft.


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## DJ_Dup (8 mo ago)

If you wanna ride Europe the Best advice would be to avoid February. It is school holiday there and all resorts get complety madly overcrowded .

France propably gonna be cheaper than Switzerland or Austria.

In France Tignes is good, but 3 vallées is Better imo.
Out of the 3 vallée resorts, ValThorens and Meribel will be the ones with most snowboarders and the decent parks. Courchevel is great for it slopes and forest runs but lodging cost the bollocks. Les Menuires would be the one good value for money one.
All the 3 vallées resorts are linked together and makes the biggest resort worldwide. Loads of nice slopes. Loads of easy to access pow/freeride spots.

If you're trip is a one off why might be Best is to rent a car and have a trip across France and Switzerland. Moss of the resorts are fairly close to each others... that way you can try all the good ones: Laax, Diablerets in Switzerland, Avoriaz, la Clusaz, Tigres, 3valles, Valmorel, 2alpes in France.
If ever you get fresh pow try La Grave


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## Turms (12 mo ago)

rent a car and visit one or a couple resorts from Each Country.
Zb Tignes - Valdisere or 3V (France) , Zermatt or Verbier (Swiss), Arlberg (Austria) , Dolomiten (Italy)
In Europe the distance from one country to another is not so big e.g. from East to West Coast etc
Such a way you will visit the top resorts in Europe
La Grave is super for pow, but instead of USA , in Europe outside the slopes you are "alone"...The area outside the slope ist not checked up for avalanches , risks etc (as the ski patrol in USA)
La Grave is one level more to this direction...
never been, but i advice to go with someone who knows the terrain....


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## Luffe (Apr 5, 2021)

I’m sure I have seen a winter holiday calendar somewhere that gives an overview of when not to go to the Alps, but not sure where. Anyone knows? Or is it enough to just avoid february?


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## Turms (12 mo ago)

usually Febr are the school holidays...ca von 10th Feb tille the End...according to this, is almost everywhere full


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## Luffe (Apr 5, 2021)

How is January in e.g St Anton? Or is March better?


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## Turms (12 mo ago)

in theorie both are really good....theoretically....


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## Luffe (Apr 5, 2021)

And realisticly?


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## Turms (12 mo ago)

Usually Januar is los season...and from mid März the eesorts are empty...espevially from monday till friday...

Definitely better as feb


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## Luffe (Apr 5, 2021)

How bad are the lift lines in feb?


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## Turms (12 mo ago)

The Biggest Problem are not the Lifts. Austria hat many detachable chairlifts gondolas etc 
But the proportion Lifts/ slopes is Not as in N.America AMD that make the slopes overcrowded


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## BoardieK (Dec 21, 2015)

If you have to go in February, go to Switzerland.


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## edi414 (Feb 20, 2018)

Mate, don’t over-engineer this whole thing. Think you simply have to make a decision what’s most important, empty slopes, apres ski,…? If Apres Ski and a lot of party don’t go to Switzerland and if you’re worried about crowded slopes don’t go to either Austria or France no matter which month.


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## Turms (12 mo ago)

ok, in France after the february holidays the slopes are relative empty. 
Austiria also...but you have to know where and when.


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## Etienne (Apr 2, 2021)

In the biggest resorts France in the problem will more be price than crowd in February actually. They've reached a point where there's is just enough space and family holidays have people who ski less (espacially off piste!). I've ridden in Val Thorens during two peak sundays last year and didn't spend more than two minutes in line (admittedly, I know how to avoid the crowd there). Even in Chamrousse, I was not definitely not alone, but it was pretty manageable. In the smaller resorts though, it can be madness.

I would say January is more risky, as you can have lacking snow or more bad weather (this is usually the month with the biggest dumps), but can be an absolute steal on cold fresh snow wether groomed or ungroomed. March will be safer on snow cover and sun, but will be on average more springish snow (although, you can be lucky…).


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## DJ_Dup (8 mo ago)

February is a no no in Europe. Its overcrowded everywhere... anyothertime is fine...


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## Snow Hound (Jul 21, 2012)

Eric Bonnel makes this chart showing the European school holidays, pretty handy if you can decipher it. France (Paris in particular) and GB are the main ones to avoid, well at least they were before Covid and Brexit.
View attachment eric2223.pdf


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## Luffe (Apr 5, 2021)

Has anyone been to Obertauern and cares to share some knowledge about that place? It’s said online that it should be good for freeriding and snowfall.


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## Turms (12 mo ago)

Obertauern is the only purpose built resort in AUT....
is not bad at all, but the slopes are a little bit small...not so long as olther resorts. Mabye something like East Coast resorts...(never benn there but from the fotos i think it almost the same)
Freeride you could find some, but the no1 ist the Arleber in Austria


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