# Waxing Iron



## TooNice (Feb 7, 2014)

I've been using a Toko T8 for a couple of years but I am starting to feel like it is not working too well (anymore?).

I wax using the crayon method but I noticed that when I move the iron across the board some part where the iron touch the board melt the wax easily, while other part do not. I am not sure if the base is just not flat, or for some reason the heat is not spread evenly, but it is getting a bit annoying. I am pretty sure that I didn't have an issue with an entry level iron of a Japanese maker.

So I am thinking of getting of upgrading to digital iron. But I just noticed that the price change a lot. I am kind of keen on the Swix T73d on paper, it is still on the more affordable side (despite being more than double what I paid the T8), has a thick plate and is digital. However one Amazon reviewer commented that the plate was nowhere flat from factory. Not very reassuring because I neither have the tool, nor am keen with the idea of having to flatten a brand new iron myself.

Is it a common problem with wax irons, or just on the lower end? And, what's the deal with those higher end and significantly more expensive wax iron? Do they make sense if I wax very often _but not for racing purpose_?

Thanks.


----------



## WigMar (Mar 17, 2019)

I dropped my old iron a few times and it started heating unevenly. I used to let it warm up for a long time, and the iron would work a lot better. I think the metal had to soak up the heat. Since then, I've been using a basic Toko and it's been awesome.


----------



## lab49232 (Sep 13, 2011)

You got tons of money and want mximum ease when waxing, sure go for it.
You even have to think about the money on the iron, ABSOLUTELY not. They are better don't get me wrong, but waxing is such a basic simple thing thatyou shouldn't need to spend money on it. I've waxed for shops, waxed using machines and wax myself at home all the time. Again tons of people are still using old flat based clothing irons. 

Buying the high end digital irons for casual use is like buying a Ferrari to go pick up the kids from daycare. Your minivans will get ya there just fine, they may creak and not be as fun but they'll still work just fine.


----------



## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

TooNice said:


> I've been using a Toko T8 for a couple of years but I am starting to feel like it is not working too well (anymore?).
> 
> I wax using the crayon method but I noticed that when I move the iron across the board some part where the iron touch the board melt the wax easily, while other part do not. I am not sure if the base is just not flat, or for some reason the heat is not spread evenly, but it is getting a bit annoying. I am pretty sure that I didn't have an issue with an entry level iron of a Japanese maker.
> 
> ...



I found a little travel iron that comes apart into 2 pieces, then clicks together covering the metal part.

I love it, it's so tiny.
Fits in my jacket pocket & it cost like $3 bucks @ value village.
It melts wax on my snowboards, just like all those other ones.


TT


----------



## robotfood99 (Mar 19, 2016)

Sounds like the iron is working as intended and regulating temperature by cycling on and off. All irons do this. Even the digital doodads. Or, could be that your board base isn't flat, like with reverse cambers. Could be a combination of both.


----------



## freshy (Nov 18, 2009)

Seems like some more or slower passes would solve your issue. It's that's worth $70+ to you then by all means get a new fancy iron.


----------



## Craig64 (Jul 16, 2015)

lab49232 said:


> Buying the high end digital irons for casual use is like buying a Ferrari to go pick up the kids from daycare. Your minivans will get ya there just fine, they may creak and not be as fun but they'll still work just fine.


But Lab' the Ferrari would really impress a lot of the other mum's at daycare.


----------



## lab49232 (Sep 13, 2011)

Craig51 said:


> But Lab' the Ferrari would really impress a lot of the other mum's at daycare.


Digitial waxing irons = A handy from the mothers in the ski resort parking lot.... So I guess it's how much is THAT worth to you


----------



## Craig64 (Jul 16, 2015)

Put the iron upside down and check the temperature over the base. The heat will spread across the metal anyway. I'd imagine an iron would just have a one strand heating element spread across the base. You can run the iron across a bed of sand paper or belt to flatten it out. I have a few T8 and they have been faultless. I'd just buy another T8.


----------



## TooNice (Feb 7, 2014)

robotfood99 said:


> Sounds like the iron is working as intended and regulating temperature by cycling on and off. All irons do this. Even the digital doodads. Or, could be that your board base isn't flat, like with reverse cambers. Could be a combination of both.


It is not the cycling. If I do a pass across the board, part of the line would see the wax melt, but a bit above or below won't be. As for the base, I have both CRC and RCR and same issues (even on a new board). I've found myself pressing harder against the board and increasing iron temperature, and going slower and I am worried that this won't do the base much good.

It's something I've noticed a lot more since last season. Earlier this season I spent time in a lodge where they had an iron that customers can freely use. It's was Gallium (Japanese brand), they only make two models (I forgot which one it is), neither high end price wise (cheaper one is $55, more expensive one $115 - neither digital if I am not mistaken). Whichever one it was, it definitely worked better than my current T8. 

I can justify more than $115 for a digital iron, provided it does an even better job, though I am not looking to splash $500+ on an iron either. Ideally, a good quality iron that is unlikely to break long past the warranty for under $300. Note that when I say under $300, it doesn't mean that I am necessarily planning to spend that much. It will need some serious justification and ttakes into account that imported brands cost quite a lot more over here.In reality, I am still leaning towards the Swix T73d, which is only an entry level digital iron in the Swix line and cost about $170 here (and about $125 in the US?).


----------



## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

oh hell...you need a flame thrower...like a propane torch...NO really don't use a propane torch, wax is a petro based. But since you or your board surface is uneven...use a heat gun...which is a hot hair dryer. Just do a cold crayon to get the wax on yer board and then melt in the thin layer with the heat gun...or try your gf/mrs's hair dryer first.


----------



## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

I would check the base for flatness.

My CRC board is very concaved, so waxing is difficult. My camber board has a flat base, which makes it easy to wax. Skis are easy to wax also.

After dropping my basic iron a few times, I got a digital one with a heavier baseplate.


----------



## Jimi7 (Jan 14, 2020)

wrathfuldeity said:


> oh hell...you need a flame thrower...like a propane torch...NO really don't use a propane torch, wax is a petro based. But since you or your board surface is uneven...use a heat gun...which is a hot hair dryer. Just do a cold crayon to get the wax on yer board and then melt in the thin layer with the heat gun...or try your gf/mrs's hair dryer first.


Yep, I do the crayon and then hit it with my heat gun. Careful with the heat gun, they get up to 1000* F - I assume that's coil temp. I find it's quicker than an iron.


----------



## Rip154 (Sep 23, 2017)

I found the base of toko t8 better than entry swix at least, but they can bend over time, and maybe lose some effect and stop heating in the ends. Not sure how much more the digital does besides showing temperature, if it's written down or a "trade secret". The most expensive irons are thicker and hold their shape and heat longer. Have a feeling the japanese ones will be just as good.


----------



## smellysell (Oct 29, 2018)

Jimi7 said:


> Yep, I do the crayon and then hit it with my heat gun. Careful with the heat gun, they get up to 1000* F - I assume that's coil temp. I find it's quicker than an iron.


Never considered using a heat gun. Interesting

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


----------



## buller_scott (Jun 10, 2018)

Heat gun user here, too. Works pretty well, very even, and comfy to use on my 2x 3d based boards. And it's AMAZING at removing years-old hard, caked-on wax from old decks (I recently got re-gifted my old Option Dufficy from 2009, and 100% plan to ride it this season, after cleaning it up and removing the totally, totally, completely kooky metal stomp pad studs that its former rider put all over it. 

Only problem with a heat gun, compared to a GOOD ski iron, is that I find it takes longer than simply doing a few passes with a good iron, in my experience.


----------



## NT.Thunder (Jan 4, 2020)

Quick question, with a factory wax on a new board, would you scrape it and then wax again or just wax straight over the top? I only ask as one board had stickers on the base and you can see the adhesive it’s left behind. I was going to scrape and put a storage wax on and scrape again just before hopefully a July trip. But just wondering what most do with new decks.


----------



## buller_scott (Jun 10, 2018)

NT.Thunder said:


> Quick question, with a factory wax on a new board, would you scrape it and then wax again or just wax straight over the top? I only ask as one board had stickers on the base and you can see the adhesive it’s left behind. I was going to scrape and put a storage wax on and scrape again just before hopefully a July trip. But just wondering what most do with new decks.


In situations like that I've just wiped the base down with isopropyl alcohol (although that might be hard to get a hold of, as all the feral c7nts who bought up literally thousands of rolls of toilet paper, would have gone and bought hundreds of gallons of that stuff as well).

Short of that, warm soapy (dishwashing liquid) water, wipe down, rinse off with a hose, let dry, super soft / summer temp storage wax, go to kitchen, put beef jerky in bowl, grab beer from fridge, pop open, do manly "ahhhhhhh" exhale after first delicious, frothy, bubbly swig!

Edit: to answer more specifically, I wouldn't take the factory wax as anything more than an emergency layer for if you're literally going to ride the board right after buying it (I honestly don't know why manufacturers list a factory wax as a selling point -- "brand new: Wend factory wax.... demo, ridden only once: no more fancy Wend factory wax". 

I need to grow some balls, get a brass brush, and try NOT waxing this season, like AngrySnowboarder. Got the perfect board for it, too!


----------



## Craig64 (Jul 16, 2015)

buller_scott said:


> Heat gun user here, too. Works pretty well, very even, and comfy to use on my 2x 3d based boards. And it's AMAZING at removing years-old hard, caked-on wax from old decks (I recently got re-gifted my old Option Dufficy from 2009, and 100% plan to ride it this season, after cleaning it up and removing the totally, totally, completely kooky metal stomp pad studs that its former rider put all over it.
> 
> Only problem with a heat gun, compared to a GOOD ski iron, is that I find it takes longer than simply doing a few passes with a good iron, in my experience.


How do you control the temp' with a heat gun. I have a variable Makita heat gun and it goes up to 50- 650C. You'd just have to wave it around varying the distances to judge the temp' by eye as it melts the wax. How do you spread it around. The iron melts and distrubutes the wax around the base in the one process.


----------



## Jimi7 (Jan 14, 2020)

Craig51 said:


> How do you control the temp' with a heat gun. I have a variable Makita heat gun and it goes up to 50- 650C. You'd just have to wave it around varying the distances to judge the temp' by eye as it melts the wax. How do you spread it around. The iron melts and distrubutes the wax around the base in the one process.


The heat gun will blow the wax around. You use the crayon method to smear the solid wax all over the base, so the wax is already pretty well distributed prior to heating it.


----------



## Manicmouse (Apr 7, 2014)

Meh I just drip wax on the board until it's covered in dots and use the cheapest little iron to spread it around until it's fully covered. A scrape and then I'm good.










Wish I bought enough boards to worry about the factory wax!!


----------



## WigMar (Mar 17, 2019)

I feel like I finally learned how to make a wax job last a really long time right as I stopped waxing. Angry Snowboarder got in my head about heating the core and loosing pop. If a heat gun heats the core less while melting the wax in, it's probably better than using an iron.

Cleaning the base really well with warm soapy water and a scotchbrite sponge before waxing made the wax stick to the base so much better for me. That extra prep step made it so I had to wax half as often or less. I'd imagine washing it with iso alcohol like @buller_scott does would be great too. 

I haven't waxed any of my boards since early last season. I might start waxing my Pentaquark, but it's still really fast and the base looks good. I've got two boards with extruded bases, and structure makes them ride much better. I still have the factory structure on my Slush Slasher, and I've never waxed it. I haven't really noticed it slowing down at all yet.


----------



## Jimi7 (Jan 14, 2020)

WigMar said:


> I feel like I finally learned how to make a wax job last a really long time right as I stopped waxing. Angry Snowboarder got in my head about heating the core and loosing pop. If a heat gun heats the core less while melting the wax in, it's probably better than using an iron.
> 
> Cleaning the base really well with warm soapy water and a scotchbrite sponge before waxing made the wax stick to the base so much better for me. That extra prep step made it so I had to wax half as often or less. I'd imagine washing it with iso alcohol like @buller_scott does would be great too.
> 
> I haven't waxed any of my boards since early last season. I might start waxing my Pentaquark, but it's still really fast and the base looks good. I've got two boards with extruded bases, and structure makes them ride much better. I still have the factory structure on my Slush Slasher, and I've never waxed it. I haven't really noticed it slowing down at all yet.


Interesting. I never heard about heat killing the pop in a board, but I do know I was religious about getting my Custom tuned and it softened up for sure. OTOH, my Supermodel still has a lot of pop and hasn't seen the iron/heat gun nearly as much. I don't know that a heat gun heats the core less, for me I find it easier and less messy than an iron so I use the heat gun.


----------



## Kijima (Mar 3, 2019)

I used a heat gun all season with no problems, saved a lot of wax in the process.
Boards get very hot in the press when they are made so the thought of heating the core up beyond that temp is one you really dont need to worry about. Fking up the sintered base material is another story however, dont take that past 100c.


----------



## Crusty (Nov 8, 2018)

I use a $4 thrift store iron. My board is fast as fuck after, and I've never felt like I've ruined my base or lost pop or poop or pretty much anything else to make me care. Plus it's old and new stuff sucks. Luddite ftw.


----------



## eelpout (Mar 1, 2009)

found this Steamfast iron at Walmart in Park City this week for $12.88 (half price sale). I've finally found one I can pack for travel so don't have to lug around my Dakine. Works great, minimal holes, used at very low heat with no smoke. (wax included for size)


----------



## eelpout (Mar 1, 2009)

oh and if you want to see a pro geek out on waxing, watch this Tommie Bennett video with US Team rider Senna Leith. One can never have too many brushes apparently.


----------



## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

eelpout said:


> oh and if you want to see a pro geek out on waxing, watch this Tommie Bennett video with US Team rider Senna Leith. One can never have too many brushes apparently.


I guess no one told Senna, Fluorocarbon is banned from racing.


----------



## Scalpelman (Dec 5, 2017)

Well I geeked out. Good info, esp the ironing and brushing techniques. But I’ll never do that complete of a wax!


----------



## WigMar (Mar 17, 2019)

That video inspired me to grab a steel structuring brush a little while ago. It's probably my favorite brush now.


----------



## smellysell (Oct 29, 2018)

WigMar said:


> That video inspired me to grab a steel structuring brush a little while ago. It's probably my favorite brush now.


What's the process evolved to at this point? 

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## WigMar (Mar 17, 2019)

smellysell said:


> What's the process evolved to at this point?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


I'm doing a couple passes with the steel brush, followed by crayoning on a thin layer of wax and working it in with the rotobrush. It takes very little time or effort, and I think my block of wax is going to last a decade.


----------



## Scalpelman (Dec 5, 2017)

Yeah I need to get a steel brush. cold crayon?


----------



## smellysell (Oct 29, 2018)

WigMar said:


> I'm doing a couple passes with the steel brush, followed by crayoning on a thin layer of wax and working it in with the rotobrush. It takes very little time or effort, and I think my block of wax is going to last a decade.


Cork roto, right?

I need to get a steel brush

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## WigMar (Mar 17, 2019)

smellysell said:


> Cork roto, right?
> 
> I need to get a steel brush
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk


Yeah, I cold crayon a thin layer of wax and work it in with a nylon rotobrush. I was using cork at first, but the nylon gets it done faster. 

The steel brush is great. Brass would work too, but the steel brings your structure back nicely.


----------

