# Self Waxing vs. Serviced Waxing



## Zehno (Sep 27, 2014)

Hey guys. So I am new to snowboarding and was wondering is it cheaper to get my board waxed current rate: $14.99. Or is it better to buy a waxing iron, wax, brushes, cleaners, and a scraper. And be able to do it is much as needed? Of course in the long run it will be worth it but just for, say a seasons time will my invest be paid off?


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## jjb7733 (Feb 1, 2014)

$10 iron from Walmart, scraper, wax, its pretty cheap and much more fun to do yourself


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## SkullAndXbones (Feb 24, 2014)

it depends on how much you wanna wax your board. some people wax it every time they go riding. others do it every 2 or 3 times they go out riding. some only do it a few times a year.


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## lab49232 (Sep 13, 2011)

Wax, Iron, Scraper. All you need. Don't get me wrong brushes and such all do help but unless you're racing or riding in warm sloppy spring conditions getting overly technical for 95% of riders is pointless. Wax can be expensive but you'll get better at realizing how much you need (it's not much at all) and then bricks of wax will last you much longer. Shops are far to expensive and at most mass wax shops (like those at the hill) you actually are just getting a quick ru down that gets no attention brushes and the like so you aren't really getting a professional job done. If anybody tells you different they were the exception or just didn't know. I've worked in them and I can assure you that's how it works


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

Yep, most shops will just do a quick belt wax that gives a nice finish that looks like its been waxed!!!!!

They'll also use Hydrocarbon Waxes that are noticeably slower than Flourocarbon Waxes that you can buy at ya local Board Store!!!!! 

For ya $14 (once ya buy ya gear), a wax job will cost ya around 1 to 2 Bucks a go!!!!! And be weirdly satisfyin for some reason?????


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## Flee21 (Mar 16, 2013)

Definitely cheaper to do yourself. Once you get the supplies it will save you money in the long run. It doesn't take long to wax your board. Watch a couple youtube videos and you will be straight. And like another member said "It's weirdly satisfying". Don't be lazy, do it yourself.


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## kosmoz (Dec 27, 2013)

Driving to a shop, leaving a board, then getting back to take it... Thank you, I'll do it myself.


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## ekb18c (Mar 11, 2013)

As others have said, once you get all the supplies it doesn't cost much to do it yourself. 

I enjoy waxing my boards, it's kind of therapeutic. Nothing like some beers and wax and hot iron.


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

Definitely much cheaper to wax yourself! However, the Brazilian will likely be fairly awkward to do by yourself! :shrug:








:signlol:


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

chomps1211 said:


> Definitely much cheaper to wax yourself! However, the Brazilian will likely be fairly awkward to do by yourself! :shrug:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


But still weirdly satisfyin!!!!!


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

I even made a boring arsed video of myself doin it!!!!!

* Not the Brazillian one though!!!!!


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## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

Short term no, long term yes. If all you have is one board and all you do is wax it once a year, which a lot of people do, and you don't put a monetary value on your time spent taking it to a shop or you think it's a chore rather than fun then I say take it to the shop.


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## mojo maestro (Jan 6, 2009)

lab49232 said:


> Wax, Iron, Scraper and beer. All you need.


Fixed for ya!:dance:


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## Zehno (Sep 27, 2014)

Alright thanks for all your replies. So now I'm convinced that its better to get my own stuff. Where can I get a good value iron in Vancouver, B.C. also what type of wax should I get? I'm an beginner-intermidiate rider. I don't mind spending around 50-75 for some good tuning supplies. Including: Iron, Wax, Scraper, and maybe if enough cash left over a brush. And also is it easy to tune your own edges? Or should i get that done from a shop?


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## Zehno (Sep 27, 2014)

Also do I need a "snowboarding" iron or will any household iron do?


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## cav0011 (Jan 4, 2009)

Get a travel iron from any store probably $10-15. Ideally you want one without holes in the bottom of the iron but its not a big deal either way. Buy a brick of all temp/cold temp/warm temp then buy a small piece of plexiglass and a green scouring pad its all you really need.


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## F1EA (Oct 25, 2013)

Zehno said:


> Alright thanks for all your replies. So now I'm convinced that its better to get my own stuff. Where can I get a good value iron in Vancouver, B.C. also what type of wax should I get? I'm an beginner-intermidiate rider. I don't mind spending around 50-75 for some good tuning supplies. Including: Iron, Wax, Scraper, and maybe if enough cash left over a brush. And also is it easy to tune your own edges? Or should i get that done from a shop?


Iron: Walmart $12
Nylon brush: Walmart $3
Scrubbing pads: walmart $2
All temp Wax: Boardroom, Sports junkies, Whiteroom, any ski shop... $13
Scraper: any of those shops^ $12

Will last you more than you think.

Watch some youtube waxing tutorials. For edges or repairs... take it to a shop.


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## Zehno (Sep 27, 2014)

F1EA said:


> Iron: Walmart $12
> Nylon brush: Walmart $3
> Scrubbing pads: walmart $2
> All temp Wax: Boardroom, Sports junkies, Whiteroom, any ski shop... $13
> ...


Scrubbing pads = Scotch bright?? or what do you mean by that lol


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## F1EA (Oct 25, 2013)

Zehno said:


> F1EA said:
> 
> 
> > Iron: Walmart $12
> ...


Yep. Walmart has a pack that ha a few greens (rough) and a few blues (smoother).

I do:
1. Warm iron
2. Apply wax
3. Scrape with scraper (tip to tail direction)
4. Green scrub pad (any direction)
5. Blue pad (any direction)
6. Nylon brush (tip to tail)
7. Quick little cloth to remove loose wax bits
8. Clean up the mess

You can substitute any step after #3 with: have a beer.


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## Zehno (Sep 27, 2014)

Nylon Brush: Scrub Brush - POWERFIBRES | Walmart.ca

Iron: Proctor Silex® Durable Iron | Walmart.ca

Scrubbing Pad: SB411 HEAVY DUTY SCOUR PAD at Walmart.ca

Wax, and Scraper will be purchased from local shop.


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## Snow Hound (Jul 21, 2012)

Definitely DIY, I find it very Zen inducing, like snowboarding meditation.

If Julia offers though you might be wise to take her up:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFp4X5Ivixs

Get her to skip the base cleaner, unless your stick is really dirty.


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## ekb18c (Mar 11, 2013)

She might scratch up my board with the way she does it...


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## Bones (Feb 24, 2008)

Zehno said:


> And also is it easy to tune your own edges? Or should i get that done from a shop?


Get your edge angles set at a shop until you know what you're doing. Or practice on an old board you've rescued from a dumpster.

Once your angles are done, then it is just a question of keeping them polished and smoothing out any nicks or burrs. A gummi stone and a fine diamond stone will work fine. If you can't smooth out a burr with those (ie it is work hardened) and you can feel it riding, then take to a shop. You won't need to screw around with your edges that frequently: a touch up from time to time and maybe a midseason tune if you need.


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## highme (Dec 2, 2012)

I don't really dick around with edge tuning, too easy to fuck up. But as long as I have space (sometimes my garage is really fucking full), I try to wax our boards a few times a season. I always do 3 or 4 at a time, so it's a bit of a time sink.

My step that isn't included in the previous list is corking it. I do that before the brush with a nice wide Swix cork.


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## Zehno (Sep 27, 2014)

A quick thought, if my iron has holes in it ik its fine. But if i put tinfoil to cover the holes or on my normal iron I can then use it on clothes and it will be holeless, And flat?


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## freshy (Nov 18, 2009)

Buy some Hertel wax, youll need to but it online but it's some of the finest wax available. 
If not just head down to W4th in Vancouver where you'll find a bunch of board shops.


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## freshy (Nov 18, 2009)

F1EA said:


> Yep. Walmart has a pack that ha a few greens (rough) and a few blues (smoother).
> 
> I do:
> 1. Warm iron
> ...


No way after step 2 for beer and or weed. I let my wax sit for at least 20 mins.


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## Argo (Feb 25, 2010)

Yeah, put a beer between every other step. We use a wax iron that came in a kit and rarely put effort into scraping unless it's a sticky snow day..... 

I love a ski race wax now, dominator wax.... Shit is FAsT!


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## mojo maestro (Jan 6, 2009)

Mmmmmmmm.......beeeeeeeeeer!ccasion14:


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## ross1998 (Dec 27, 2013)

Waxing you board is all fun and games till your friends and family members find out you wax boards... 

Also I was able to pickup a demon complete tune kit (the one that 80$ on their site) for 45 at Big 5 last season and it has everything in there from iron to bunch of edge tools. 

Also if you get into waxing your own boards do yourself a favor and buy the big Block of HERTEL wax on Amazon for 20 dollars, dont buy the small packs of wax that cost 15 dollars and last you about 5 wax jobs.


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## lab49232 (Sep 13, 2011)

Step one grab 6 pack.

Step two commence drinking beer

Step three.... what were we talking about again?


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

SGboarder said:


> Much cheaper to get it done by a shop - even in Japan where I pay USD~20 a pop. Get it done about twice a week and there is no way I could justify spending the time myself.


I have a shop within a 5 minute drive from my house, and I guarantee I could wax and texture my board in less time than it would take me to drive there and back (not including cool down time).

That said, I put 36 hard days work on my board last year and probably waxed twice. It's all in the texture/structure. I love it when people tell me I've got my wax right, and I tell them I haven't waxed in 20 days!!! :rofl2:


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

Most stores will hold ya board o'night for a hot wax too!!!!!

Turnaround time for home done will be way faster!!!!!


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## Zehno (Sep 27, 2014)

Alright guys so my plan now is: Go to walmart grab an iron that I think will do the job, scotch brite pads. Then head to my local shop grab some wax (called them and said they have some on sale from last season.) A scraper, and maybe a brush if I like one. And while I'm at walmart I'll drop the board off at Sportchek for an Edge Tune. Am I missing anything, I don't need a base cleaner or anything, right?


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

SGboarder said:


> Total time invested handing the board in on the way home and picking it up in the morning (i.e., if I do not have it picked up and delivered) = 5 minutes at most.
> 
> No way it can be done in less time at home.


I don't even have to leave the house/accommodation, or even make a detour!!!!!

And I'll get my board done and ready to ride in an hour tops!!!!! (Not 1 Hours Work)

Takes me 5 mins at the most to wax, 2 mins to scrape and buff!!!!! 

You face the possibility of waitin that long at the shop if there's a morning line up!!!!! While the only line I'm in is the one for first tracks!!!!!


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## Mike E (Mar 10, 2013)

2min to scrape? Am i doing something wrong cuz scraping alone is 15-30min for me.


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

Mike E said:


> 2min to scrape? Am i doing something wrong cuz scraping alone is 15-30min for me.


15-30mins?????

Yep, you're doin it wrong!!!!!


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## Zehno (Sep 27, 2014)

Zehno said:


> Alright guys so my plan now is: Go to walmart grab an iron that I think will do the job, scotch brite pads. Then head to my local shop grab some wax (called them and said they have some on sale from last season.) A scraper, and maybe a brush if I like one. And while I'm at walmart I'll drop the board off at Sportchek for an Edge Tune. Am I missing anything, I don't need a base cleaner or anything, right?


Anyone wanna reply to this? Lol


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## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

Zehno said:


> Anyone wanna reply to this? Lol


you are cool. the only reason u need base cleaner is if you are a prissy bitch or you rode through a giant puddle of tree sap that somehow got really into the top layer. otherwise just brush off your board and if u want a wet rag is fine if ur shit gets dirty from roof racks or parking lot. if you have tons of dirt you can also do a hot scrape, this also skips the base cleaner. i wax my own shit, never used any base cleaner. 

my kit is:

iron (walmart $10)
table
plastic sheeting for floor
scraper
a few rags
a squirt bottle of water just to have around to clean dirt with rags beforehand
scotch brite pads
a 6" hand brush with short stiff bristles
a couple cinder blocks wrapped in mattress foam
1lb blocks of wax
a couple of sanding blocks in different coarseness to smooth out my rails after I ride on rocks. I ride on lots of rocks.


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## Lamps (Sep 3, 2011)

In addition to the usual list shown here I have a good quality metal brush, the kind that is designed for skis/ boards. 

I find it's handy prior to waxing for cleaning/getting old wax out of the base structure. 

Second wher my scraping didn't work out the metal brush is great for getting rid of excess wax.


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## OU812 (Feb 2, 2013)

I have a Toko iron, a scraper and a brush I bought at a ski shop with short plastic bristles. Good enough for what I need. I've only used the Toko universal wax, but might try some other ones this season. The good thing about owning all this, is you can experiment with different waxes and see what you like best and the cost isn't gonna make a hole in your wallet. Going to the shop, dropping off your board, picking it up, higher cost, lost time I could be doing something else. Forget it, I'll wax my own board and like others have said its therapeutic and I can see exactly whats going on with the board and the base etc. You get to know your board more personally.....hopefully not too personally for some of you.


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## davidj (May 30, 2011)

SGboarder said:


> Much cheaper to get it done by a shop - even in Japan where I pay USD~20 a pop. Get it done about twice a week and there is no way I could justify spending the time myself.
> 
> Just make sure that the shop does a proper hot wax, not just a belt-wax job.


Twice a week at a shop? All season long? Awesome! 2: :bowdown:


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

Mike E said:


> 2min to scrape? Am i doing something wrong cuz scraping alone is 15-30min for me.





Mizu Kuma said:


> 15-30mins?????
> 
> Yep, you're doin it wrong!!!!!


I must be doing it wrong too. Guessing I'm either putting down too much wax. (…I know I put down _WAY_ too much the first few times I waxed 'em myself but,.. thought I'd fixed that!)

_...Or_ You guys are maybe just yankin' mine and the other poster's chains?! It takes me at least 10-15 min. to properly scrape and scotch brite any one of my boards.



poutanen said:


> ….That said, I put 36 hard days work on my board last year and probably waxed twice. *It's all in the texture/structure. I love it when people tell me I've got my wax right, and I tell them I haven't waxed in 20 days!!! *:rofl2:


Pout,… not sure I recall whatcher riding. (…besides the fact that it's no doubt Cambered!)  :signlol: 
But I believe the base construction/materials of any particular board has a _LOT_ to do with that also!!!

I will notice a _BIG_ difference in the speed of my X-truded base Rome after only a few days riding. And even with the sintered base of my Arbor, (…although it does take longer with the Arbor for it to become noticeable.) But my point is, Both of these boards will be letting me know they need a wax job _LONG_ before my NS Proto does!

I swear that board is wicked fast even after 15-20, even 30 days or more, of riding between waxing. I can't go near that long between waxing with either of the other decks! I'm not sure how the sintered base of the NS is different from the sintered base of my Arbor? But it is!


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## Deacon (Mar 2, 2013)

OP, what you're probably noticing is that there is a lot of ways to wax your board. None are really gonna be wrong or right, as long as you follow a couple of basic rules. Don't burn your wax or board and let the wax cool before you scrape it (if you scrape it at all, some don't). Don't use your iron on clothes too, you'll eff up your clothes. Just go to a second hand shop and pick up an old one for a couple bucks and make it your dedicated board iron. The holes don't make a damn bit of difference. Oh yeah, and don't put water in the iron. That's bad.

Watch a lot of videos, it's daunting at first, but you'll quickly find your groove.

To the dude spending 15-30 minutes scraping, you're putting too much wax on.


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## mojo maestro (Jan 6, 2009)

OU812 said:


> You get to know your board more personally.....hopefully not too personally for some of you.


Wifey was out of town, so I thought it might be fun to get to know my board a little better. Had some wine........dimmed the lights.......broke out the hot wax. Forgot to deburr the edges..........didn't turn out so well for 'lil mojo.


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

In all seriousness, if ya spendin that much time scrapin off wax, then I'm guessin ya puttin too much on still?????

Do ya end up with a lot of scrapings????? 

Or ya scraper is in desperate need of sharpening????? (Best scraper I've found is the Triangle Burton one) 

Buffing with the Scotchbrite should take about 20 seconds!!!!!


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

Check out this vid of Johan from Underground in Whistler!!!!!


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

SGboarder said:


> On a related note: Does everybody here do oil changes, swap break pads, etc. for their cars themselves?


Not 100% of the time, but they're easily done!!!!!

I even cook my own steak when I'm havin a BBQ too!!!!!


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## Deacon (Mar 2, 2013)

SGboarder said:


> On a related note: Who here does oil changes, swaps break pads, etc. for their cars themselves?


Most people possessing a modicum of mechanical aptitude and work ethic.


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## lab49232 (Sep 13, 2011)

Deacon said:


> Most people possessing a modicum of mechanical aptitude and work ethic.


Yup, all things mechanical aren't scary and difficult. I will say however I often take up shops running oil changing specials. By the time you get the filter and oil to do it yourself it's more expensive. Plus then I don't have to find some place to recycle the used stuff :wavetowel2:


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## mojo maestro (Jan 6, 2009)

Used oil makes great lawn fertilizer.


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

mojo maestro said:


> Used oil makes great lawn fertilizer.


You fertilise your own lawn????? :dropjaw:


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## Argo (Feb 25, 2010)

SGboarder said:


> But given that waxing arguably has no/negligible impact on board performance, I guess the real benefit is psychological. Obviously the ritual is important for that and never going to get that from handing over the deck at the end of the day.
> 
> On a related note: Who here does oil changes, swaps break pads, etc. for their cars themselves?


What? It makes a noticeable difference for sure. Iride daily and know immediately when I need a wax and I know when I wake up, depending on the snow/weather, what kinda wax I need. 

Yeah I change my oil and brakes, takes about 10 minutes for oil, 15 per tire on brakes.


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## Deacon (Mar 2, 2013)

SGboarder said:


> WTH has work ethic got to do with it?
> 
> I get that none of these things (waxing boards, changing oil, whatever) are particularly difficult, if difficult at all. However, I really have better things to do with my time -* ride more, hang with friends, drink*,... . But fair enough, it is a personal choice for sure.


Defined perfectly, thank you. Work ethic is choosing to do what needs to be done instead of choosing to do what's fun. If you're good you can find enjoyment in executing and completing tasks. :shrug: if you have it, you know what I'm talking about. If not, no big deal, you're giving a job to somebody who does.


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## Deacon (Mar 2, 2013)

Fair enough. I usually turn mechanic work or waxing or lawn maintenance into family time too. Figure it's a good skill to teach my kids.


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## Zehno (Sep 27, 2014)

Update: Back to waxing. I bought the iron, some wax, scraper, (ended up getting an edge tunet because I got a kit) scoth brite pads. I need to get a brush and some hertel wax but oneballjay will do for now. I was just wondering i waxed my board scraped off the wax idk if its my scraper but it didnt get it all off and wont let me take more off. I can see the wax and can scratch it off. I have the burton triangle scraper, any scraper recomendations??


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

Zehno said:


> Update:…
> i
> ...waxed my board scraped off the wax idk if its my scraper but it didnt get it all off and wont let me take more off. I can see the wax and can scratch it off. I have the burton triangle scraper, any scraper recomendations??



There is _supposed_ to still be some wax on/in the board's base! It's how we get them to slide on the snow! Have you watched _any_ of the waxing vids? (…not the ones for the brazilian, I mean snowboard waxing?)

-edit-



zoom111 said:


> ...I presume you just purchased the scrapper, so no need to sharpen it. Try applying more pressure *or get a hold of a metal scrapper.*


*NO!* Not until you know *exactly* wtf you're doing! A NooB with a metal scraper will only fuck up his board. A metal scraper can cut & gouge your base if you are not very careful!


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## zoom111 (Dec 14, 2010)

If the scrapper isn't taking any more off but your still scratching it off with your finger nails. First off maybe try running a rag or your fingers along the edge of your scrapper to clear it of all the wax "gunk". The rest should come out with your scotchbrite and whatevers left after that the snow will take care of.

I presume you just purchased the scrapper, so no need to sharpen it. Try applying more pressure or get a hold of a metal scrapper.


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## vknyvz (Jan 23, 2013)

jjb7733 said:


> $10 iron from Walmart, scraper, wax, its pretty cheap and much more fun to do yourself


pretty much this is it, or you can get a burton iron, i've been using mine for 2 seasons now going strong and a scraper you can grab for 6-7 bucks from REI. I do it every other time!!!!


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## F1EA (Oct 25, 2013)

Zehno said:


> Update: Back to waxing. I bought the iron, some wax, scraper, (ended up getting an edge tunet because I got a kit) scoth brite pads. I need to get a brush and some hertel wax but oneballjay will do for now. I was just wondering i waxed my board scraped off the wax idk if its my scraper but it didnt get it all off and wont let me take more off. I can see the wax and can scratch it off. I have the burton triangle scraper, any scraper recomendations??


Go and ride it.


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## Zehno (Sep 27, 2014)

F1EA said:


> Zehno said:
> 
> 
> > Update: Back to waxing. I bought the iron, some wax, scraper, (ended up getting an edge tunet because I got a kit) scoth brite pads. I need to get a brush and some hertel wax but oneballjay will do for now. I was just wondering i waxed my board scraped off the wax idk if its my scraper but it didnt get it all off and wont let me take more off. I can see the wax and can scratch it off. I have the burton triangle scraper, any scraper recomendations??
> ...


Gotta wait for slopes to open


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## Tarzanman (Dec 20, 2008)

SGboarder said:


> .But given that waxing arguably has no/negligible impact on board performance, I guess the real benefit is psychological.


This is 100% WRONG. Just thank the snowboard gods that you have never had the misfortune of having to ride a rental board that has never been waxed. I am talking about a board at a southeast resort that probably had 100+ days of riding in artificial snow. They don't slide well at all. Even on a fairly steep slope.

Wax your junk, fellas!


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## SGboarder (Jun 24, 2012)

Tarzanman said:


> SGboarder said:
> 
> 
> > But given that waxing arguably has no/negligible impact on board performance, I guess the real benefit is psychological. Obviously the ritual is important for that and never going to get that from handing over the deck at the end of the day.
> ...


Note that I said *arguably*. And some pretty prominent and knowledgeable people on this board have made exactly that argument (that waxing is of little or no importance) - see poutanen in this very thread, BurtonAvenger here, herzogone here - even Jed said that the difference is too small to worry about.
Maybe it does make a difference for some people - I never claimed that it did not and some other respected people like Argo say it does for them. Now that might be psychological or a real difference in board performance. Either was a pretty strong case can be made the other way as well, so I do not think that I was wrong in my post.


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## kosmoz (Dec 27, 2013)

I felt a huge difference between unwaxed and waxed in snowdome on artificial snow. Never been in mountains with waxed and unwaxed same board, I wax it every two days. When I see edges getting dried up (white), I know that it needs to be waxed.


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## xIceHoundx (May 12, 2013)

Personally I dont care for dropping my gear off to be waxed by anyone, did that one time in germany and apparently there was a miscommunication between my american english and the german at that resort, came the next day to pick it up and it had been all machine edged and stuff which I wasnt happy about. Would hate to see that happen to my magnetraction.

I enjoy waxing my board, and in just one season its already saved me money id have spent getting waxed a few times on a long weekend of riding. Hertel wax is cheap and rides really well, a decent snowboard wax iron isnt too expensive. This season I think ill buy a stand to make it easlier than putting it on a box like I have done up till now to wax it up.


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## ItchEtrigR (Jan 1, 2012)

If I haven't waxed I'll feel it on a flat but once it's pointed downhill it's all the same to me...


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## Bones (Feb 24, 2008)

ItchEtrigR said:


> If I haven't waxed I'll feel it on a flat but once it's pointed downhill it's all the same to me...


Same here. I wax regularly and that's about the only time I really notice it. Unfortunately, the place I ride most often has two long flats connecting the two sides of the hill and one annoying uphill going to my favorite runs. With a fresh wax I can just make the uphill.


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## radiomuse210 (Sep 5, 2014)

SGboarder said:


> Note that I said *arguably*. And some pretty prominent and knowledgeable people on this board have made exactly that argument (that waxing is of little or no importance) - see poutanen in this very thread, BurtonAvenger here, herzogone here - even Jed said that the difference is too small to worry about.
> Maybe it does make a difference for some people - I never claimed that it did not and some other respected people like Argo say it does for them. Now that might be psychological or a real difference in board performance. Erither was a pretty strong case can be made the other way as well, so I do not think that I was wrong in my post.


Interesting views on it...when I was first starting out, I didn't wax my board at all during the season. I just didn't have the cash because I was spending it at the mountain and I hadn't yet gotten into it how to do it myself. The day I decided to get it done...god damn my board was noticeably faster. I could zip right through areas that I would usually get stuck on. This was after 25 days or so of not being waxed. Whether waxing every time you ride is as beneficial as people make it seem...that I don't know. I do want to be sure I'm taking care of my board and if I get a faster ride out of it, that's even better.


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## OU812 (Feb 2, 2013)

Anyone know where I can buy Hertel wax in Europe? Preferably online


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## larrytbull (Oct 30, 2013)

i buy mine by the brick on amazon.
ebay also sells it


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

SGboarder said:


> On a related note: Who here does oil changes, swaps break pads, etc. for their cars themselves?


I pretty much do EVERYTHING myself when possible. Engine swaps, tranny swaps, simple stuff like brakes/suspension/etc... But I grew up taking a half day of auto and a half day of regular classes through high school, and find that kind of thing fun. 

I also find that most "professionals" of anything don't tend to take the time to do a good job, even if they have the experience/training to do a better job than an amature. So for me it's worth it to do things myself.



Tarzanman said:


> This is 100% WRONG. Just thank the snowboard gods that you have never had the misfortune of having to ride a rental board that has never been waxed. I am talking about a board at a southeast resort that probably had 100+ days of riding in artificial snow. They don't slide well at all. Even on a fairly steep slope.


It depends on the snow, and it depends on the board, and it depends on if/when it was waxed last. Note that in my post in this thread, I said that texture was everything. A solid base grind/profile is as important if not more important than waxing.

I used to be one of the wax every 3-4 day crowd, and then I got busy and didn't have time/was too lazy to wax. Ended up at the end of the year with the board still beating nearly everybody in flats. Realize that it's not necessary for me to wax every 3-4 times, more like a couple times a season.



radiomuse210 said:


> Interesting views on it...when I was first starting out, I didn't wax my board at all during the season. I just didn't have the cash because I was spending it at the mountain and I hadn't yet gotten into it how to do it myself. The day I decided to get it done...god damn my board was noticeably faster. I could zip right through areas that I would usually get stuck on. This was after 25 days or so of not being waxed. Whether waxing every time you ride is as beneficial as people make it seem...that I don't know. I do want to be sure I'm taking care of my board and if I get a faster ride out of it, that's even better.


When was the last time you had a base grind?


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

Mike E said:


> 2min to scrape? Am i doing something wrong cuz scraping alone is 15-30min for me.





chomps1211 said:


> I must be doing it wrong too. Guessing I'm either putting down too much wax. (…I know I put down _WAY_ too much the first few times I waxed 'em myself but,.. thought I'd fixed that!)


You put down way too much wax. How do you apply the wax?

We only use iron, wax n scraper - well, and beer.
Take the wax block n rub it over the base, it'll leave a thin layer of wax. Then melt n distrubute that layer with the iron, moving smoothly n constantly. Scraping actually isn't needed with such a thin wax layer, one run and it's fine. But for rite reasons, clean wax off edges n scrape base, done in 1 min.

Wax frequency: depends on weather/snow conditions. If very cold, every weekend (2nd day)- it really makes a difference then. Normal temps: doesn’t matter too much, maybe every 10d, more of a rite thing. When the warm spring slush days come: most important, get it stone grinded.

Edge tuning: at the boot slopeside whenever it's necessary. Also depends on snowconditions. I'll kbow it after the first run if they're due to be re-tuned.


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## Lamps (Sep 3, 2011)

Bones said:


> Same here. I wax regularly and that's about the only time I really notice it. Unfortunately, the place I ride most often has two long flats connecting the two sides of the hill and one annoying uphill going to my favorite runs. With a fresh wax I can just make the uphill.


Mt St Marie in Quebec?


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## Bones (Feb 24, 2008)

Lamps said:


> Mt St Marie in Quebec?


Very good. Then you know the uphill. Its not huge, but it is just below the top of the lift and there's not much vertical above to gather speed.


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## Panduri (Oct 26, 2013)

neni said:


> When the warm spring slush days come: most important, get it stone grinded.


Hey Neni, why do you stone grind it for the slush?

I just wax it more often in the spring, preferably with a warmer snow wax
Then I stone grind at the end of each season


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## ridinbend (Aug 2, 2012)

Panduri said:


> Hey Neni, why do you stone grind it for the slush?
> 
> I just wax it more often in the spring, preferably with a warmer snow wax
> Then I stone grind of each season


A stone grind for spring will have the structure going at a 45 degree angle to properly allow excess water to escape from under the board.


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## Panduri (Oct 26, 2013)

Thanks, sounds legit. I will consider it this year, this would decrease the wax wear as well


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## Panduri (Oct 26, 2013)

btw how many stonegrinds you can do on total during the life of the board? I know somewhere between 10 and 15...
I am asking about the usual "texture" grindings, not the damage related ones


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## ridinbend (Aug 2, 2012)

Panduri said:


> btw how many stonegrinds you can do on total during the life of the board? I know somewhere between 10 and 15...
> I am asking about the usual "texture" grindings, not the damage related ones


You will want a new board before you reach the max for stone grinds. Grind away.


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

Panduri said:


> Hey Neni, why do you stone grind it for the slush?
> 
> I just wax it more often in the spring, preferably with a warmer snow wax
> Then I stone grind at the end of each season





ridinbend said:


> A stone grind for spring will have the structure going at a 45 degree angle to properly allow excess water to escape from under the board.


+1



ridinbend said:


> You will want a new board before you reach the max for stone grinds. Grind away.


+1

One grind in spring was sufficient to me. Our slush season is short, maybe 10d


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

neni said:


> You put down way too much wax. *How do you apply the wax?*


I use the methods this guy Johan talks about. I saw one of his vids after my first time 'r two of doing it myself and it definitely helped with putting down too much wax. Even so, he recommended putting down 3 drip lines of wax for proper coverage. One down both edges, spread evenly to edge, and one down the middle to fill between (I don't bother brushing just scotch brite.) . 


Mizu Kuma said:


> ….Johan from Underground in Whistler!!!!!





neni said:


> ….We only use iron, wax n scraper - well, and beer.
> Take the wax block n rub it over the base, it'll leave a thin layer of wax. Then melt n distrubute that layer with the iron, moving smoothly n constantly. Scraping actually isn't needed with such a thin wax layer, one run and it's fine. But for rite reasons, clean wax off edges n scrape base, done in 1 min.


One reason I may have to put down more wax than is necessary? I have to wax outside in the cold in my garage. It's a lot harder to keep wax warm enough to spread, without risking getting the board too hot! Too much mess to do this in the house!

I may try the crayon method Johan showed for the expensive wax. See how that works for me!

(…oh and I have a triangle scraper and a plexi sharpener for it!)


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## radiomuse210 (Sep 5, 2014)

poutanen said:


> When was the last time you had a base grind?


On my old board - not one time. I picked up a new board over the summer...and to be completely honest, this is the first time i'm hearing of a base grind. Any info on that whole procedure would be appreciated.


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

radiomuse210 said:


> On my old board - not one time. I picked up a new board over the summer...and to be completely honest, this is the first time i'm hearing of a base grind. *Any info on that whole procedure would be appreciated.*


I wouldn't mind a little more detailed info on how & why one would undergo that process myself!

I've been around here long enough to have heard about and have some familiarity with the term. Even so,.. I only have a rudimentary idea of what a base grind is and apparently, even less knowledge on *why* you would get one done.

TBH, until neni mentioned it,.. I was under the impression that base grinds were strictly for restructuring after some sort of damage to the base. I don't recall anyone mentioning before now, having it done just to liven things up for wet, spring slush riding! 

…although I do understand the basic concept of why structure would help riding in the slush! I am still pretty unclear as to exactly when you would want to get this done on any particular board.


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## ridinbend (Aug 2, 2012)

The boards base causes snow to melt from friction when moving over the snow. It helps move moisture out from under your board instead of it, the water, slowing you down(suction). Grooves to move water. Plus it removes all the shit on your base and smoothes it all out. I usually have to get my early season rock board done once or twice after all the holes and scratches I fill from lava lacerations.

Keep in mind too that water content in the snow based on temperature will also significantly determine how your board will ride. First chair temp is 26 and in two hours temp is 33, snow is changing significantly, especially on the surface. Wax and structure. I always take a wire brush to the hill.


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## surfinsnow (Feb 4, 2010)

I bought all the stuff -- the iron, scraper, brush, etc. I even bought base cleaner and top sheet cleaner. And then made love to my board for the first several times. It _was_ kind of a zen thing, but I didn't have a dedicated area for it, just the garage, which is full of car during winter. So every time I'd have to take out the sawhorses, get all the shit ready...then put it all away until next time. It got to the point to where it really became worth it to me just drop it off at the shop for a quick wax/tune while I ate breakfast (or drop it off at the end of the day and pick it up in the morning if you're staying at the resort). Still, once or twice a season (like, real soon!) I'll break out the kit and give everything a serious work over.

Another plus to doing it yourself is that you are right there close-up with your equipment, and it gives you a chance to check for damage and wear and tear on your bindings.


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## Panduri (Oct 26, 2013)

neni said:


> Our slush season is short, maybe 10d


10days is like 1/3 of the season for me


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## ridinbend (Aug 2, 2012)

Panduri said:


> 10days is like 1/3 of the season for me


My spring/corn season is four months.


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

Base grinding itself is an art! There are many different types of grinds, but the main thing to think about is coarse vs. fine. 

A coarse structure is better for warmer/wetter snow, a fine structure is better for colder/drier snow.

This is one thing that I take my board to a ski shop for, as most snowboard only shops just have a one size fits all base grind.

Here's a shop that does proper base grinds: notice how they mention being able to do different structures (I.E. they don't just run the board under a drum sander)

Ski Tuning Service - Race Ski Base Grind - Ski Base Structure - Ski Hot Wax

Here's a fairly in depth description of what it's all about.

The Piste Office - Stone Grinding & Structuring

If the machine the shop uses looks anything like this, it's just a stone grind (which isn't bad, and if they can change the drums they could change the depth of the grind too):










This is what some various structures look like.


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

ridinbend said:


> My spring/corn season is four months.


I meant 10 riding days . Thus ~ a month. There would be corn earlier at lower elevation, but as I prefer "proper" snow, we crawl up to higher elevations and skip the lower parts. 

Can be bit tricky to choose the right wax/grind if riding 7500ft verts in spring tho  At 12700ft there's perfect firm cold snow, but at the base soaking wet 




chomps1211 said:


> I don't recall anyone mentioning before now, having it done just to liven things up for wet, spring slush riding!


Ridinbend already explained, thus just a little addition: put a CD disk on a flat dry table. Grab it off the table. Works ok. Now put some drops of water on the table, put the disc on the water and try to grab it. Water adhesion is pretty heavy between two smoothe surfaces. Wouldn't be a problem on a table with rough surface. 
In spring, the snow is very wet, and builds a smoothe layer adhering to the board surface. The smoother the base, the more adhesion. Thus I get the stone grind in spring, to get a structured surface of the board to reduce that water adhesion. Never felt it's needed in cold snow as the board is way too fast then anyway


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## Lamps (Sep 3, 2011)

Base grind is essential, night and day difference in warmer conditions. One of my fav boards has a deep structure, huge difference in slush. In cold conditions it makes a zippering, zzzz sound when it's not pointed exactly downhill. I dig that sound.


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## ItchEtrigR (Jan 1, 2012)

Let's see pics of those stone grinded bases folks...


Edit: can one achieve similar results with a brush?


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## Lamps (Sep 3, 2011)

ItchEtrigR said:


> Let's see pics of those stone grinded bases folks...
> 
> 
> Edit: can one achieve similar results with a brush?


You definitely can't get the same result with a brush, the base material is too tough.


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

Yeah no way a brush could do it, but it shouldn't be expensive for a shop to do it for you... Just gotta find the right shop.

I've got a few pics of my bases online, but they're not focusing on the texture/grind. I can take some pics when I get home.


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## highme (Dec 2, 2012)

A brush can't exactly replicate those results. However, since the adhesion works at a molecular level a, stiff brush will create deep enough grooves to make a difference in super wet snow.


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## ridinbend (Aug 2, 2012)

highme said:


> A brush can't exactly replicate those results. However, since the adhesion works at a molecular level a, stiff brush will create deep enough grooves to make a difference in super wet snow.


Next year I will be getting a spring grind as my steel brush just didn't do enough during May. I used multiple different warm waxes and angled brushing and still got some serious stickage down low. Never fun to go over the bars when your board decides to stick.


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## highme (Dec 2, 2012)

"didn't do enough during May" is a horrible problem to have. But, I guess I should edit that to say "wet snow" not "super wet snow".


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

highme said:


> A brush can't exactly replicate those results. However, since the adhesion works at a molecular level a, stiff brush will create deep enough grooves to make a difference in super wet snow.


At the molecular level, my 180 pound ass sliding over little frozen shards of water is going to negate most of what a brush can do within one run.

I use a stiff bristled nylon brush when I wax to clean out the grooves, but I highly doubt a brush can add structure to a base that's too flat. Just my $0.02 of course.


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

ItchEtrigR said:


> Let's see pics of those stone grinded bases folks...
> 
> 
> Edit: can one achieve similar results with a brush?











Tiny grooves app. 1mm. in parallel to the edge.
I'm sure there would be other patterns and I don't say this is the best one. It's just the grind my trusted "tuning dude" recommends (disclaimer, I don't know if it's the only pattern his machine can do) but it works great.

Doesn't look like much but with the smoothe base, I go over the bars on the flat sun exposed soaking wet runouts of our resort in spring, like riding a cabby pony, it sucks, literally and figuratively. After the grind we're friends again 

Never have used a brush so can't say if it would do similar. Tho I doubt it.


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## ItchEtrigR (Jan 1, 2012)

I wanna get this done, but it's too expensive of a prep for a situational grind, what kind of pattern does someone recommend for all purpose?

Nenis looks like the same kind of finish you get on a brand new high end ski...


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## surfinsnow (Feb 4, 2010)

I've had my board for four seasons now (NS Titan) and I've never done a base grind because I always heard you don't grind a sintered base. Did I not get the new memo?


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## ekb18c (Mar 11, 2013)

My Yes Asym came with noticeable grooves from the factory, my other boards weren't as noticeable. (gnu, lib, burton, etc.)


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

ekb18c said:


> My Yes Asym came with noticeable grooves from the factory, my other boards weren't as noticeable. (gnu, lib, burton, etc.)


Same for my Arbor. It's subtle but it's there. I believe my NS Proto has structure like that also. Both are sintered bases. I'll have to go check the Rome GR. It's the only extruded base board I have so I wonder if it came from factory /w same structured lines/grooves as the sintered boards.


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## surfinsnow (Feb 4, 2010)

SO...what's the deal? Do you grind a sintered base or not? I've always heard you never grind a sintered base, but no one seems to be addressing this in this thread.


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

It's still early out west. Someone will chime in once they've had breakfast. 





...of course, if you can't wait there's always Google! :shrug: :laugh:


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

surfinsnow said:


> SO...what's the deal? Do you grind a sintered base or not? I've always heard you never grind a sintered base, but no one seems to be addressing this in this thread.


Other way around: why should one _not_ grind a sintered base?


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## ross1998 (Dec 27, 2013)

I've never heard or read anyone say don't base grind you sintered board.

My k2 happy hour came with a noticeable base grind from the factory, it was just lines running parallel with the board edges.


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

neni said:


> Other way around: why should one _not_ grind a sintered base?


Uhm,.. I think the question might have to do with a sintered base's characteristics of having "pores" to absorb and hold wax. I don't have a definitive answer, about why or why not? I have no actual knowledge to give any reason for or against putting a grind on a sintered base. 

However,.. I think I can understand the confusion since I also do not have any idea of how a base grind is actually done. My question would be could the process of grinding it cause enough heating of the board's sintered base material to essentially _close / alter_ those pores as it "Grinds" and produces structure in the base? That would _obviously_ not be an issue on extruded bases. No pores! 

Having no first hand experience or knowledge concerning any of these processes? I can understand the confusion surrounding them. …not withstanding the obvious point that just waxing a sintered base? Spreading wax with an iron "heats up" the base! Could _Grinding_ involve more heating to the base. Could it be enough to melt, or otherwise alter the base material substantially more than just moving an iron back and forth across the base?

…again, I have no idea, but someone here must!


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## lab49232 (Sep 13, 2011)

Grind sintered bases all day long. No reason not to unless you want your board to continue to be beat up.


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## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

12 pages ... 

Perhaps this applies to some of our cohorts... (I know it does me...)


How do you behave when it comes to decision making? Do you spend a long time thinking over every single decision, because you are afraid of making the wrong choice? Do you feel a need to analyze every single option before you come to a conclusion? Does your over-analysis often stop you from making a move quickly — at times missing perfectly good opportunities?
If so, congratulations — you “suffer” from analysis paralysis. Analysis paralysis is the state of over-thinking about a decision, to the point where a choice never gets made, thereby creating a paralyzed state of inaction. A person faces analysis paralysis when he/she…

Is overwhelmed by the available options Over-complicates the decision when it’s supposed to be quite simple Feels compelled to pick the right “perfect” decision, thereby delaying making a decision until due research is done Feels a deep fear of making a wrong decision, hence stalling decision making to prevent a wrong decision being made … 

all in all, not able to decide at all.


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## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

I haven't seen much base structure from a grind round these parts. Never had it on my boards or seen it on homies.

dunno? 

our snow is too awesome? lolwut?


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

snowklinger said:


> I haven't seen much base structure from a grind round these parts. Never had it on my boards or seen it on homies.
> 
> dunno?
> 
> our snow is too awesome? lolwut?


... or you don't mind to be slow...


Cos your resorts are well structured so that they don't have flats on every run and are all over steep enough?


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## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

Well my problem with being slow is that I like to smoke a bunch of herbs and then fuck with my gear and fall down in the parking lot and whatnot. 

On the hill though, I don't have any trouble.

I do wax myself and keep it fresh, but again, no base structure other than factory.


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

snowklinger said:


> On the hill though, I don't have any trouble.
> 
> *I do wax myself and keep it fresh,* but again, no base structure other than factory.


Well, while grooming and personal hygiene is _always_ important! But how does that help you go any faster? Oh Wait,..!!! Reduced wind resistance, right???  :laugh: :rofl3:


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## ItchEtrigR (Jan 1, 2012)

I wouldn't mind giving it a go. Last time I sent some equipment for a full prep the boards came back without the full treatment, dunno why they skipped the base prep, all I payed for was a clean, wax job & edge tune.


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## SnowDogWax (Nov 8, 2013)

Wax the difference that makes all the difference... My grandson was taking a ski lessons so I waxed his skies. My daughter said instructor asked what wax she used because he had trouble keeping up with him. Grandson was 6.


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## Zehno (Sep 27, 2014)

f00bar said:


> 12 pages ...
> 
> Perhaps this applies to some of our cohorts... (I know it does me...)
> 
> ...


You think you're all smart but I'm the one who posted this and got my info quick, it has just turned into a discussion, so why do you even care? If it bothers you that others are getting some more information and other points of views then a forum isn't the best place for you to be.


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

Zehno said:


> You think you're all smart but I'm the one who posted this and got my info quick, it has just turned into a discussion....


Lol! Yup! Absolutely no way whatsoever to predict what direction _ANY_ thread is going to take! Any discussion here can easily evolve and morph into something completely unrelated and unrecognizable from the OP's intent in starting the thread!

:signlol:


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## radiomuse210 (Sep 5, 2014)

chomps1211 said:


> Lol! Yup! Absolutely no way whatsoever to predict what direction _ANY_ thread is going to take! Any discussion here can easily evolve and morph into something completely unrelated and unrecognizable from the OP's intent in starting the thread!
> 
> :signlol:


Agreed! This post (and all of its pages) has been helpful to me as I begin to pick up the supplies needed to start waxing my own gear. It's a pretty straight-forward process when you get down to it, but when you're just starting out, you want to make sure you're doing everything right to avoid damaging your board.


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

radiomuse210 said:


> Agreed! This post (and all of its pages) has been helpful to me as I begin to pick up the supplies needed to start waxing my own gear. It's a pretty straight-forward process when you get down to it, but when you're just starting out, you want to make sure you're doing everything right to avoid damaging your board.


Oh yeah,.. I was scared half to death first time! I was just certain there was a very real chance I was somehow going to fuck up my one and only expensive, beautiful board!:signlol: Now,..? shit!!! LOL I just slather the stuff on, scrape until I'm done, (…or just plain tired of scraping!) Scotch brite it and ride!  Sometimes I'm all zen and into it. Take my time and do a really "Purty" job of it. Others I just need it done fast, so it's sloppy, quick and dirty just to get out there & shred!  

As long as you don't overheat the board when spreading the wax around,.. (which is easy enough btw, to determine when your getting close to that.) Feel underneath on the topsheet of your deck every once in a while, during your wax application and spreading. If you feel it getting hotter than just nicely Warm to the touch? Let it cool some before proceeding! It really is pretty hard to foul this up and damage your deck doing your own waxing! 

Also, I've heard it said to always use the plexi, triangle scrapers! Those long rectangle, plexi or metal scrapers can possibly bow when applying pressure during scraping, thereby gouging the base. 

Don't sweat it too much. It gets easier and easier every time!


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## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

Alot of waxing work will depend on conditions. 

If shit is warm or manmade, may as well not even scrape, let the hill do it for you, and by the 3rd or 6th run you will be running waxless regardless of what you did. 

On teh flip side, we have extremely dry snow here and last year was epic with constant snow. I barely needed to wax as the conditions made little impact on my base throughout the bulk of the season.


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## Zehno (Sep 27, 2014)

Ok so I waxed my board using these steps: 

1. Apply wax with iron
2. Let cool
3. Roughly scrape off with 10 Inch scraper.
4. Scrape of remaining with burton triangle scraper.
5. Green scotch Brite pad.
6. Blue Scotch Brite pad.
7. Hard bristle nylon brush. 

All going tip to tail. It kind of feels like all the wax is off I believe this is good cuz it means theres only a thin layer of wax? Can someone let me know?


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## Manicmouse (Apr 7, 2014)

Zehno said:


> Ok so I waxed my board using these steps:
> 
> 1. Apply wax with iron
> 2. Let cool
> ...


Seems a bit overkill to have that many steps to remove wax?

Wax, cool, scrape, brush, ride

You will have one of the fastest bases on the mountain just by doing the basics.

Don't get me started on base cleaner some use each time


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## ridinbend (Aug 2, 2012)

:thumbsup:

:cheer:


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## frankz (Oct 15, 2014)

I found doing it myself to be a pain trying to get the wax even and scraping it off. I find a shop does a much better job. Remember, 'thin to win'


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## SnowDogWax (Nov 8, 2013)

frankz said:


> I found doing it myself to be a pain trying to get the wax even and scraping it off. I find a shop does a much better job. Remember, 'thin to win'


We live in a microwave world.
Shops will not do a better job!
Shops are good for recreational/beginner ski or boarder.


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

Bunch of ya all are anxiety ridden compulsive autistic wax heads.

Do the crayola wax method...go look for it
easily done under 5 minutes,
much less wax
much less breathing of petrochemical fumes that cause brain damage
no scraping or if you want...1 light scrape and very easy scrubbie pad
none or very little clean up if all
easier on the environment
cheap...this fall...1 pound of wax for $3.49 and will last me 2-3 years

My waxing kit...cost maybe $3....equals more money for other bc shit = more fun


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## Manicmouse (Apr 7, 2014)

wrathfuldeity said:


> Bunch of ya all are anxiety ridden compulsive autistic wax heads.
> 
> Do the crayola wax method...go look for it
> easily done under 5 minutes,
> ...


How long does that wax job last I wonder?

As for the petrochemical fumes...  Most fluorocarbons are non-toxic! You're probably breathing in more toxins filling up your tank.


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

…after almost four years as a member here I honestly and truly don't know what to make out of _ALL_ the various debates I have read here in the forum on waxing!!!

When to, How often? What wax types, scraping, no scraping, which board bases do or don't do what for holding wax, needing waxed?? So on & so forth, Yada-yada, etc. etc. etc, ad infinitum!!! :blink: :shrug:

It seems as though there are opinions, preferences, experts, advocates, (…not to mention _zealots!_ ) Contradicting one another on either side of _every_ aspect surrounding the subject of waxing!!!! 

*(*side note) * 
_I am going to post this comment, *as is* for now, but I want to go and do a little more research and digging! I want to get a few more facts first because I plan on invoking the possible wrath of,… :notworthy:* "The Angry One" *:notworthy: later to see if there isn't a more definitive answer. _


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

chomps1211 said:


> …after almost four years as a member here I honestly and truly don't know what to make out of _ALL_ the various debates I have read here in the forum on waxing!!!


I think there may be a bit of a placebo effect, or it has to do with where we normally ride. I ride dry fluffy powder, and I've made my stance on waxing quite clear. Maybe for those that ride different snow have a different result than me?

Or maybe waxing a poorly textured base makes a bigger difference than waxing a base with a good texture?


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

How I look at it!!!!!

If waxin ya board doesn't make any difference, maybe these guys are wastin their time?????


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

poutanen said:


> I think there may be a bit of a placebo effect, or it has to do with where we normally ride. I ride dry fluffy powder, and I've made my stance on waxing quite clear. Maybe for those that ride different snow have a different result than me?
> 
> Or maybe waxing a poorly textured base makes a bigger difference than waxing a base with a good texture?


Exactly!!! These are some of the other variables that add to the disagreements and differences of opinions on this subject!! The type of snow, warm temp wax on cold snow, cold wax on warm slush, Textured base, no texture, Sintered vs extruded!

It just seems to me that unlike most other questions regarding the "hard goods" of snowboarding,… Opinions on Boards, boots, bindings, etc. With almost all of these, any disagreements can usually, eventually be boiled down and settled by invoking "personal preference!"

This subject however, would seem to me to be one of those that shouldn't be so dependent on "subjective" opinion or preference! 

One would think,.. or at least _"I"_ would, that this could be definitively answered one way or t'uther! Either waxing works or it don't,… Right?? :shrug:

Now, if it really is only a placebo kind of thing? :dunno: If I *feel* like I'm going faster after a good wax? Well,.. I guess I'm ok with that! 

It's kinda like fallin' for the wrong women that way!! If I "_think_" I'm in love,..? Well then, I'm in Love! (at least till I sober up anyway!)  lol!


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## SnowDogWax (Nov 8, 2013)

chomps1211 said:


> Exactly!!! These are some of the other variables that add to the disagreements and differences of opinions on this subject!! The type of snow, warm temp wax on cold snow, cold wax on warm slush, Textured base, no texture, Sintered vs extruded!
> 
> It just seems to me that unlike most other questions regarding the "hard goods" of snowboarding,… Opinions on Boards, boots, bindings, etc. With almost all of these, any disagreements can usually, eventually be boiled down and settled by invoking "personal preference!"
> 
> ...


IMHO this is not a subject that is subjective but proven. Now that you have some time... research for yourself... or just stop waxing your board. Either way will prove my point.
Hope your mending well.


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## Manicmouse (Apr 7, 2014)

When you're cruising on a cat track past snowboarders skating along with one foot then you have your evidence!


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

chomps1211 said:


> One would think,.. or at least _"I"_ would, that this could be definitively answered one way or t'uther! Either waxing works or it don't,… Right?? :shrug:


I think we can difinitively answer that right now. It works!

But the amount of analness (is that a word?!?) put into it by some people seems a tad excessive.

I used to be one of the guys who waxed every 4 days out, and like I said earlier in the thread, last year I got too busy to wax, and probably had 20-30 days on at the end of the season. I was still passing hardcore skiers (i.e. patrollers who are on the hill 5/6 days a week for 10 hours a day) in the flats. They commented that I must have had my wax really dialled in!

I'm convinced it's the base grind/texture on that board... I'll wax all my boards again before this season starts, but that may be the last time I wax this year.

Get busy waxin' or get busy ridin'... Goddamned right! :whiteflag:


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## lab49232 (Sep 13, 2011)

If your boards sticking, your hill's not steep enough.


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## SnowDogWax (Nov 8, 2013)

lab49232 said:


> If your boards sticking, your hill's not steep enough.


+1

:cheer::yahoo::laughat::wavetowel2:


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

SnowDogWax said:


> ...research for yourself... or just stop waxing your board. Either way will prove my point.


Oh, I have! I have gone long periods between waxing my boards! First partial season,.. I was scared & nervous about waxing myself, so only did when I could afford it. And now,.. Well, I'm just lazy! 

Last season was really the *only* time I actually experienced some oddities with my boards bases sticking and/or not performing like I had been used to. 

I believe most of that was because it was just so bitterly cold here for most of last season! Sometimes my boards were feeling slow or sticky, freshly waxed or not! And Iir, that seemed to occur on some of the colder of those cold days. (…In general, I use all purpose, all temp wax!)

Of course,.. on any really warm days, with fresh, "un-corned" snow? Board suck, just *Sucks!!* Wax or no wax!!!! :crazy2: Next time? That's when I'll try a base grind for some texture and suckage relief!  lol



-edit-
These came in while I was composing my reply,…



lab49232 said:


> If your boards sticking, your hill's not steep enough.





SnowDogWax said:


> +1
> 
> :cheer::yahoo::laughat::wavetowel2:



+ 1000 + 
:notworthy::cheer::notworthy:


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## Zehno (Sep 27, 2014)

What type of base cleaner should I use or is it not necessary?


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## lab49232 (Sep 13, 2011)

None, done, let's not get in to a ten page debate about this, unless you have gunk like tree sap on it just don't bother.


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## F1EA (Oct 25, 2013)

poutanen said:


> I think there may be a bit of a placebo effect, or it has to do with where we normally ride. I ride dry fluffy powder, and I've made my stance on waxing quite clear. Maybe for those that ride different snow have a different result than me?
> 
> Or maybe waxing a poorly textured base makes a bigger difference than waxing a base with a good texture?


What texture do you have on your powder boards?
Do you have different textures for different conditions or do you do a "all-around" texture on all your boards?

(Not a trick question. Just curious)
(Also I'm asuming by textured you mean structured)


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## speedjason (May 2, 2013)

Zehno said:


> What type of base cleaner should I use or is it not necessary?


Usually citrus cleaner gets rid of wax very good.
It's not necessary but when the base is very dirty you end up with a mixture of wax and dirt after waxing. I just clean it up once every 5 waxes.
You can also do hot scrape to clean the base.


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## Zehno (Sep 27, 2014)

Just wanna let you guys know. Holy shit hertel wax is good. Tht shit is soo smooth and i was so quick on the slopes.


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## Lamps (Sep 3, 2011)

If you're not gonna wax yourself specify hand wax at the shop, belt waxes are the worst


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## Steezus Christ (Jul 29, 2013)

Lamps said:


> If you're not gonna wax yourself specify hand wax at the shop, belt waxes are the worst


this! we used that shit on our standard rental fleet and its like having wet newspaper permanently on the bottom of your board.. any self respecting shop wouldn't use it on a customers board. sometimes we used it to apply the wax then run the iron over it after to soak it in, that worked just fine but realistically it doesn't save that much time.


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

Save the base cleaner for cleaning your scraper and iron

Hot scrape is best (and expensive) to clean your base

Base structures, type of wax, etc... If you care about maxing the speed.... This is when you develop OCD.

Other than that, all temp wax and factory base grinds are like all-season tires. Jack of all trades and master of none.

If you put too much wax (it is insurance for base burn) while the wax is still hot, put Swix fiberlene in between the board and iron, and let the fiberlene soak up some wax as you make a final pass down the board


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## ecr (Nov 25, 2014)

I want to do this on my balcony which is long but only about 3.5 ft wide. Any advice on how to put down the snowboard to wax out there?
I used saw horses before on a bigger balcony and they don't provide enough support for scraping.


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## Motogp990 (Mar 10, 2013)

ecr said:


> I want to do this on my balcony which is long but only about 3.5 ft wide. Any advice on how to put down the snowboard to wax out there?
> I used saw horses before on a bigger balcony and they don't provide enough support for scraping.


My balcony is very small as well.

Use any two equal height objects (I use 2 ikea mini stools, about 36" high) to rest the board on. 
I sit on top of the board, to keep it stable, on one end where its resting on the stool. After I'm done one half, I sit on the other end and finish it off.


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## ecr (Nov 25, 2014)

Motogp990 said:


> My balcony is very small as well.
> 
> Use any two equal height objects (I use 2 ikea mini stools, about 36" high) to rest the board on.
> I sit on top of the board, to keep it stable, on one end where its resting on the stool. After I'm done one half, I sit on the other end and finish it off.


Good idea, Thanks!


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

Most of the time I just put down a mat and put the board on the hickbacks. It's not perfectly level but fine for my needs. I'm not one of those wackjobs that removes bindings every time I wax! :facepalm3:

Also, I've used a rubbermaid tote. If you get one big enough for both bindings to fit inside, it makes a good stand at about knee height, and you can store all your tuning stuff in it.


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## ecr (Nov 25, 2014)

poutanen said:


> Most of the time I just put down a mat and put the board on the hickbacks. It's not perfectly level but fine for my needs. I'm not one of those wackjobs that removes bindings every time I wax! :facepalm3:
> 
> Also, I've used a rubbermaid tote. If you get one big enough for both bindings to fit inside, it makes a good stand at about knee height, and you can store all your tuning stuff in it.


Do you loosen the bindings every time? Or not even?
Last year I didn't take off or loosen mine either, base looks fine. But I am hearing now I should at least loosen them every time.


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

ecr said:


> Do you loosen the bindings every time? Or not even?
> Last year I didn't take off or loosen mine either, base looks fine. But I am hearing now I should at least loosen them every time.


No need to loosen bindings!!!!!

Just somethin made up by some pelican!!!!!


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## lab49232 (Sep 13, 2011)

ecr said:


> Do you loosen the bindings every time? Or not even?
> Last year I didn't take off or loosen mine either, base looks fine. But I am hearing now I should at least loosen them every time.


12 years, never loosened mine once to wax, never had a problem. Some people go way too overboard when waxing


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## XR4Ti (Dec 12, 2009)

I either take the bindings off to fit my table better or loosen them. It drives me crazy to feel the dimple wax with my hand otherwise.


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

XR4Ti said:


> I either take the bindings off to fit my table better or loosen them. It drives me crazy to feel the dimple wax with my hand otherwise.


Dimple Wax?????


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

lab49232 said:


> 12 years, never loosened mine once to wax, never had a problem. Some people go way too overboard when waxing


Yeah I never loosen... NEVER! Only when removing the bindings to put on another board.


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## radiomuse210 (Sep 5, 2014)

poutanen said:


> Yeah I never loosen... NEVER! Only when removing the bindings to put on another board.



Same here. I don't find that it causes any problems to leave the bindings as they are when I wax. If space is limited or depending on what you're placing your board on to wax, it may be beneficial to remove them. But otherwise...it's just an extra step you don't need.

I was saying this the other day after waxing my board...I don't feel the same way about it that it seems most people do on this forum. Enjoying the process and the ritual of waxing a board. I really am just not into it. I make sure I do a decent job, but man it takes some time. Each time I do it, I get a little better and more efficient at it though.


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## Steezus Christ (Jul 29, 2013)

waxing's just waxing really.. i dunno, maybe i've speant too much time working in a service shop but it really is pretty basic.


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## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

Take them off so they fit in my harbor freight drill press vices. I have some long 6m bolts I put in and use to clamp down on.


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

XR4Ti said:


> …..It drives me crazy to feel the *dimple wax *with my hand otherwise.


:rofl4: :rofl3: :rofl2:
  
:rofl2: :rofl3: :rofl4:


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

I got a pair of vices from Canukstan!!!!!

Lightweight and compactable, holds board for wax and edge tunes etc!!!!!


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## Motogp990 (Mar 10, 2013)

My Kit.

Bought that Red tuning kit, clamps and base cleaner in 1998.

The iron is one of my mom's old ones, which is probably older than the majority of people on the forum.

I have about a third of the base cleaner left, which goes to show you how much I've used in 16 years.


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## ecr (Nov 25, 2014)

Motogp990 said:


> My Kit.
> 
> Bought that Red tuning kit, clamps and base cleaner in 1998.
> 
> ...


Nice. Are you able to do your stool and sitting waxing technique without removing the bindings? Can you put the stools on the very outside of the board?

Thanks to everyone who pointed out that bindings don't need to be loosened or removed.


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## Motogp990 (Mar 10, 2013)

ecr said:


> Nice. Are you able to do your stool and sitting waxing technique without removing the bindings? Can you put the stools on the very outside of the board?
> 
> Thanks to everyone who pointed out that bindings don't need to be loosened or removed.


Yup, I don't take my bindings off.

I thinks so. I can't remember, but it doesn't really matter.
I may put one in between and one outside. The board may not fit perfectly flush on the stool(s) but when you sit on top of it, it'll keep it steady.


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## Big Foot (Jan 15, 2013)

I used to take mine to a shop right by my apt because I'm lazy. $10 for a wax. I recently moved and the closest shop is now 20 minutes away. So a round trip dropping my board off + a round trip picking my board up is 1 hour 20 minutes of my time wasted. Not to mention to $10 for the wax + however much gas my gas guzzler uses. So I said fuck it and bought an iron, scraper, and pound of wax. 

If I had realized how quick and easy waxing is, I'd have been doing it myself all along. I just set up two tall cardboard boxes with full .50 cal ammo cans in the bottoms so they don't move. Put my board ontop of those with the bindings against the sides of the boxes so the board doesn't move. Then put wax on the board. Then I go play video games for a half hour, come back and scrape the wax off. Total time actually spent physically waxing/scraping is 15 minutes tops. I've waxed my board 3 times so far, so the supplies have already paid for themselves.

My advice. If you are on the fence about doing it yourself or paying a shop, just do it yourself. It's cheaper, faster, and you'll probably end up doing a much better job.


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## CassMT (Mar 14, 2013)

boards last longer and ride better if you are on it. 

you can get set up for less than the price of one wax. it's enjoyable, i won't say fun 

it's like changing your own oil in the car, yer either into that kinda shit or your not...maintainence


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## KIRKRIDER (Mar 18, 2008)

CassMT said:


> boards last longer and ride better if you are on it.
> 
> you can get set up for less than the price of one wax. it's enjoyable, i won't say fun
> 
> it's like changing your own oil in the car, yer either into that kinda shit or your not...maintainence


For me it's a ritual....Love that time in the garage, between a Sierra Nevada and a spliff.. checking the KWood cam, charging the Contour... hmm this afternoon.. 
Kwood is getting some right now.


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## SnowDogWax (Nov 8, 2013)

"it's worth it to spend some time sharpening our saws before we spend the whole year cutting with them".



SnowDog | SnowDogWax.com


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