# Too much wax - how much do you use?



## Qball (Jun 22, 2010)

I use at most .5 ounces per wax. I go around the edge first, making a full circle. I then down the middle of the board in sort of a zig zag pattern one way and then do the same the other way, resulting in somewhat of a criss-cross pattern. The more you do it, the better you will be able to gauge how much wax you need to use.


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## john doe (Nov 6, 2009)

Heat up the base with the iron for a few minutes. Then rub the wax directly on the base like you're coloring it in with a crayon. Then iron like normal and drip wax anywhere that may need more.


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## MistahTaki (Apr 24, 2010)

john doe said:


> Heat up the base with the iron for a few minutes. Then rub the wax directly on the base like you're coloring it in with a crayon. Then iron like normal and drip wax anywhere that may need more.


i think that putting an iron to a wax-less base would damage it???


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## Bones (Feb 24, 2008)

john doe said:


> Heat up the base with the iron for a few minutes. Then rub the wax directly on the base like you're coloring it in with a crayon. Then iron like normal and drip wax anywhere that may need more.


Personally I soften the surface of the wax block by touching it to the iron and then crayoning the base. Touch/smear, touch/smear half a dozen times (using a big shop block of wax) and the base is covered. Iron well to spread it around and there's way less scraping to do than with the drip method


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## AWNOW (Sep 12, 2009)

john doe said:


> Heat up the base with the iron for a few minutes. Then rub the wax directly on the base like you're coloring it in with a crayon. Then iron like normal and drip wax anywhere that may need more.


You don't want to put the iron on the base by itself if it is dry. There really isn't even a reason why that is a good idea. After the wax drips to the board you ought to be going over the base enough that the pores open in the process. 


As for how much wax, it really depends on what you feel or how your budget looks. I actually tend to use a bit more than I need because I hate the sticking, dry feeling when running the iron if I need to conserve. Much rather prefer the smooth back and forth of a well lubed board.  Of course, if you use to much wax then it can become a pain to scrape. There really is no punishment in terms of margin of error with using too much wax. Experience will teach you.


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## john doe (Nov 6, 2009)

MistahTaki said:


> i think that putting an iron to a wax-less base would damage it???


That would makes no sense. UHMW wears slower then steal much less the aluminum base of a wax iron and it isn't getting any warmer then if it was sitting in the sun. I came up with the technique after seeing the other crayon on technique and didn't really want to keep putting my hand near the really hot thing.


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## Deviant (Dec 22, 2009)

As far as the edges go, you don't have to go crazy with dripping wax along the edges, if there's an area that doesn't have the wax near the edge, just keep pushing around the wax so that you can see the wax on the edge.


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## slyder (Jan 18, 2010)

This is what I use:










I can do a board in about 1/2 hour from start to finish.
Removing old wax
cleaning base
applying new wax
remove wax
buff clean
and tuning edges
all taking my time

When you apply wax you only need enough to cover board. It doesn't need to pool. You will see it get all shinny then as it cools it will turn milky. You will be able to see where you have enough and to much. If an area doesn't have enough just drip a few drops there, reheat and you'll be good.
This will save you a ton of scrapping time and wasted wax.


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## Sincraft (Sep 6, 2010)

good replies all. Thanks. Very interesting. Going to try some different things after the next couple days out


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## Hodgepodge (Dec 9, 2010)

Also, you should check out some videos on youtube. the guy from The House does it a pretty standard way. what I usually do is clean the base really well with pine sol spray to get the dirt and old wax off. then I heat the base up a bit with a common blow drier, just to open up the pores where the wax will sit. I heat up the iron to about 150 degrees, drip the wax once or twice around the entire edge of the board, using smaller drips about 1/2 an inch apart, then let the wax drip in zig zags on the rest of the base. with a little less than an ounce of wax, my board doesnt dry out for 5 sessions or so.


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## Joeyblunts420 (Dec 14, 2010)

Waxed my board in the hotel the other night, first time I'd ever waxed one. Iron wasn't hot enough at first, used waay too much wax. Scraped my board while warm. Waxed my friend's board with the excess. And then STILL had a good amount of shavings hahahahaha!!! Luckily I only got 2 or 3 drops of melted wax in the carpet and I got my $100 deposit for the room back lol


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## Roundabout136 (Aug 26, 2008)

Joeyblunts420 said:


> Waxed my board in the hotel the other night, first time I'd ever waxed one. Iron wasn't hot enough at first, used waay too much wax. Scraped my board while warm. Waxed my friend's board with the excess. And then STILL had a good amount of shavings hahahahaha!!! Luckily I only got 2 or 3 drops of melted wax in the carpet and I got my $100 deposit for the room back lol



You didn't wax your friends board with the excess shavings from your board right....?


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## Lstarrasl (Mar 26, 2010)

I'm a wax whore. Fresh wax is the best!


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## Joeyblunts420 (Dec 14, 2010)

Roundabout136 said:


> You didn't wax your friends board with the excess shavings from your board right....?


Well technically HE waxed his board with the excess shavings from my board.. But, the answer to your question is YES.


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## Lstarrasl (Mar 26, 2010)

Joeyblunts420 said:


> Well technically HE waxed his board with the excess shavings from my board.. But, the answer to your question is YES.


nothing wrong with that.


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## Grizz (Nov 10, 2008)

john doe said:


> That would makes no sense. UHMW wears slower then steal much less the aluminum base of a wax iron and it isn't getting any warmer then if it was sitting in the sun. I came up with the technique after seeing the other crayon on technique and didn't really want to keep putting my hand near the really hot thing.


It's not an issue with base "wear". Too much heat can cause a base delam and is probably what the other poster was concerned with. It doesn't sound like you are heating your board up to that point.


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## vrecksler (Apr 18, 2010)

From what I understand, you don't need a lot of wax for your board. Since you're basically just filling the pores of the base material with wax, and scrapping the excess off, there's no point in going crazy.

When you're waxing, just try to remember roughly how many drips you use for a specific part of the board (say, between the bindings) and keep that in mind when you're scraping. If you have a ton of shavings and you're having to scrape the same section of board more than 10 times, you used too much wax...not that there's anything wrong with that.


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## Leo (Nov 24, 2009)

Roundabout136 said:


> You didn't wax your friends board with the excess shavings from your board right....?


What's wrong with using the excess shavings? It's just wax. I understand that it's not the best thing to do if the wax was soiled from a dirty base.


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## ross1998 (Dec 27, 2013)

Picked up a demon wax kit for 40 dollars at big 5 sporting goods and tried waxing my board yesterday. Did I use to little wax because it took me like 15 minutes to spread onto the board after I dripped it and there where still some spots after I scraped the show no wax.


Also can anyone send me a picture of the iron sole base, feels like mine scratches to easy from the edges.


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## MGD81 (Mar 13, 2012)

You guys put a lot of effort into waxing. I drip, smear with the iron then go ride, takes about 3 minutes.


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## SnowDogWax (Nov 8, 2013)

Any wax is better than no wax, but do not heat your board up with an iron without any wax on it.


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## emc19 (Jan 29, 2014)

MGD81 said:


> You guys put a lot of effort into waxing. I drip, smear with the iron then go ride, takes about 3 minutes.


Im no expert but you're missing an important step here.


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## Lamps (Sep 3, 2011)

emc19 said:


> Im no expert but you're missing an important step here.


yah, open a beer first


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

emc19 said:


> Im no expert but you're missing an important step here.


Yeah, gotta agree there! ...I have to believe the board is gonna ride slower without scraping and smoothing out that wax. Doesn't matter how hot my iron, or how many times I run it the length of the board, I still end up with globs and ridges of hardened wax. I have to believe that's less efficient for speed than a smooth scraped base! :dunno:

I suppose it's possible that it really might not amount to much in the way of slowing the ride, but I do get a certain satisfaction out of seeing that smooth, freshly waxed and scrapped base!


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## Lamps (Sep 3, 2011)

chomps1211 said:


> Yeah, gotta agree there! ...I have to believe the board is gonna ride slower without scraping and smoothing out that wax. Doesn't matter how hot my iron, or how many times I run it the length of the board, I still end up with globs and ridges of hardened wax. I have to believe that's less efficient for speed than a smooth scraped base! :dunno:
> 
> I suppose it's possible that it really might not amount to much in the way of slowing the ride, but I do get a certain satisfaction out of seeing that smooth, freshly waxed and scrapped base!


I wax in the spring before storage for the off season and don't scrape (never mind whether this has any value or not, it takes almost no time to do it). I forget to scrape one of my boards before going back out the next season, so I left it as a test case. 

I had expected that the wax would wear off fairly quickly since there is a lot of man made snow at my hill, but it stayed on, and worked fine until it got really cold one day and was sticking like crazy (it was warm temp wax). So I scraped it and brushed it and went back out and even though it was cold temps and warm wax, it worked pretty good.


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## booron (Mar 22, 2014)

MGD81 said:


> You guys put a lot of effort into waxing. I drip, smear with the iron then go ride, takes about 3 minutes.


Yep. I scrape a little for the Zen: Drip, Iron, half-ass scrape, half-ass brush, let the snow do the rest...

Maybe throw in a hot scrape with base prep every couple of weeks, in this case I'll actually try to scrape/brush off most of the base prep...


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## CassMT (Mar 14, 2013)

interesting tidbit from the guy here who is considered the waxing Guru of the mountain, the peeps line up for just him every day: he uses_ just enough _wax, the perfect amount, and has his ironing technique so dialed that he just puts a perfect, thin coat, *no scraping necessary*. everyone swears by this dude


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## speedjason (May 2, 2013)

use less wax as possible. you can always add more later.
spread it slowly and evenly. too fast movement causes wax to pile up.


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## Lamps (Sep 3, 2011)

CassMT said:


> interesting tidbit from the guy here who is considered the waxing Guru of the mountain, the peeps line up for just him every day: he uses_ just enough _wax, the perfect amount, and has his ironing technique so dialed that he just puts a perfect, thin coat, *no scraping necessary*. everyone swears by this dude


I wanna be like that, I'm pretty good with a surfer grinder on fibreglass but my ironing skills are rudimentary. 

However the best wax/tuning guy that I know here in ontario told me last week that come spring to lay it on thick, the warm snow eats wax and also the manmade snow starts poking through, and it eats wax too. This was purely in a conversation about what to do for recreational stuff, he had different advice for racing, which started with $75 blocks of fancy wax, once I told him I was a bulk wax kind of guy he said lay it on thick in that case for spring.


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## CassMT (Mar 14, 2013)

yep i do that too for spring, bulk red layed on pretty thick ( not crazy), smooth as best i can with the iron, and just let the corn and slush do the scrapin'


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## SnowDogWax (Nov 8, 2013)

The warmer the temperature as been noted no scraping will work. As it gets colder you do need to scrap. 
I guess? :icon_scratch: Unless your a wax guru…..:dunno:


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## ItchEtrigR (Jan 1, 2012)

What's the point of a half assed job, your better off with spray wax. Smoother the base the better glide your going to get which is why you scrape & polish in the first place. If you don't wanna suction cup in the wet add some structure with a hard nylon brush. Purpose of wax is to moisten the base not layer it on as a protective coating. A layer of wax will hold on to grime & dirt that will slow you down untill the wax rubs off, Sure you'll get away without scraping but you get away without waxing either. Plus you'll come to a compete stop on a boardslide or end up faceplanting if you suction cup the box.


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## kosmoz (Dec 27, 2013)

What's behind not removing bindings when waxing? It's just a recommendation or a must?


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

kosmoz said:


> What's behind not removing bindings when waxing? It's just a recommendation or a must?


No point whatsoever!!!!! :dunno:


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## kosmoz (Dec 27, 2013)

I noticed just 4 white spots in place where screws are, IMO screws sucks base a bit and there is just an excess of wax in these spots, nothing else. After that I did all other (maybe 3) wax jobs with bindings removed, but I'm sick of removing them, and screw heads are showing signs if wearing out.


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

kosmoz said:


> I noticed just 4 white spots in place where screws are, IMO screws sucks base a bit and there is just an excess of wax in these spots, nothing else. After that I did all other (maybe 3) wax jobs with bindings removed, but I'm sick of removing them, and screw heads are showing signs if wearing out.


hence the point of not removing the bindings to wax


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## kosmoz (Dec 27, 2013)

so these 8 points are 0.000? % of total surface area... nah, doesn't care


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

kosmoz said:


> I noticed just 4 white spots in place where screws are, IMO screws sucks base a bit and there is just an excess of wax in these spots, nothing else. After that I did all other (maybe 3) wax jobs with bindings removed, but I'm sick of removing them, and screw heads are showing signs if wearing out.


The white spots are just where the screws are absorbing most of the heat, and therefore cool the wax faster than the rest of the base!!!!!

It won't do any harm to board or binder, and if ya notice any difference in the performance of the board, then someone should be waxin ya boards as part of a contractural agreement!!!!!

Leave ya binders on I say!!!!! Viva le Binder!!!!!


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

kosmoz said:


> I noticed just 4 white spots in place where screws are, IMO screws sucks base a bit and there is just an excess of wax in these spots, nothing else. After that I did all other (maybe 3) wax jobs with bindings removed, but I'm sick of removing them, and screw heads are showing signs if wearing out.


These imprints appear cos the inserts have a different heat retention as the rest of the board. Nothing to worry. Move the iron continuously, smooth and evenly. That's what I was told by our local wax guru dude (who uses an automated moving infrared heat lamp instead of an iron and won't take bindings off).


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

kosmoz said:


> so these 8 points are 0.000? % of total surface area... nah, doesn't care


Need... resist... calculate... awwww... :laugh:


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## Oldman (Mar 7, 2012)

Why do people want to turn something as basic as waxing a board into something resembling brain surgery?

No where, at no time, is a blow drier needed to wax a board !!!!!!!! :thumbsdown:

How many times does it need to be said on this forum..... THERE ARE NO PORES IN A BASE !!!!!!!!!!

When it comes to waxing please adhere to the KISS Principle: ( Keep It Simple Stupid )

1) Put wax on board, drip it, crayon it, it matters not how, just get the wax on the board.

2) Heat wax with iron........ top of deck feels warm..... you're done!!!!!!!!!

3) Let board cool.

4) Scrape board with scraper. (Always tip to tail ) 

5) Polish with a green Scotchbrite. ( Again tip to tail )

For all but the most anal, your board is now good to go.

Please remember to enjoy at least two beers during this process.


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## linvillegorge (Jul 6, 2009)

Oldman said:


> Why do people want to turn something as basic as waxing a board into something resembling brain surgery?
> 
> No where, at no time, is a blow drier needed to wax a board !!!!!!!! :thumbsdown:
> 
> ...


Of all the overanalyzed subjects in snow sliding sports, waxing has to take the cake. I use to get a huge kick out of the crazy intricate waxing tutorials Snowolf would put together. :laugh:

Fucking shit people, melt wax on board, scrape it off, ride. It's really that simple.


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

Oldman said:


> How many times does it need to be said on this forum..... THERE ARE NO PORES IN A BASE !!!!!!!!!!


First I've ever heard of this?????

I do agree with the rest of ya post though!!!!!


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## linvillegorge (Jul 6, 2009)

There are pores in the base. P tex is a porous material. However, a base's ability to absorb wax is minimal at best. Base wax absorption is largely a myth.


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## Argo (Feb 25, 2010)

Just like miyagi said. 

Wax on
Wax off


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## larrytbull (Oct 30, 2013)

linvillegorge said:


> There are pores in the base. P tex is a porous material. However, a base's ability to absorb wax is minimal at best. Base wax absorption is largely a myth.


http://www.kuzmin.se/docs/isea2008_presentation.pdf

this says otherwise:dunno:


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

larrytbull said:


> http://www.kuzmin.se/docs/isea2008_presentation.pdf
> 
> this says otherwise:dunno:


That is pretty damn ambiguous?????

On one hand they say the samples have increased in size after being hot waxed, then they go on to say that the haven't absorbed any wax????? 

Now I'm no scientist, but what made the samples increase in size if they didn't take on any of the wax?????


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## Deacon (Mar 2, 2013)

Mizu Kuma said:


> That is pretty damn ambiguous?????
> 
> On one hand they say the samples have increased in size after being hot waxed, then they go on to say that the haven't absorbed any wax?????
> 
> Now I'm no scientist, but what made the samples increase in size if they didn't take on any of the wax?????


Heat makes plastics swell.
:dunno:


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

Deacon said:


> Heat makes plastics swell.
> :dunno:


I guess it is after it's been boiled in molten wax for 4 hours, but I'm not sure what this proves????? 

I reckon if I did the same with some synthetic sponge, it'd probably end up a blob of goop????? 

Doesn't mean that the sponge isn't porous?????


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

Oldman said:


> Why do people want to turn something as basic as waxing a board into something resembling brain surgery?


I'm with you. 80/20 rule. Basic wax, drink, scrape, drink process will get you 80% of performance. To get the last 20% is just not worth the effort for recreational snow gliding.

As it is physics, and including lots of variables, entire theses base on trying to elucidate the science behind "sliding on snow" 
E.g.
Investigation of the most essential factors influencing ski glide
A review of the friction of snow skis


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

neni said:


> I'm with you. 80/20 rule. Basic wax, drink, scrape, drink process will get you 80% of performance. To get the last 20% is just not worth the effort for recreational snow gliding.
> 
> As it is physics, and including lots of variables, entire theses base on trying to elucidate the science behind "sliding on snow"
> E.g.
> ...


A good wax job is pretty much a necessity down under in Australia, and especially durin the warmer periods!!!!!

Wet snow can be like ridin in glue if you haven't got a good coat of wax on ya base!!!!! 

Plus the first article (didn't read the second one) talks of a reduction in friction!!!!! When it's actually friction that's needed to generate the reaction in order to release the wax in minute amounts, and in turn lubricate the surface of the base and make it glide faster!!!!! 

Hence why a Cold Wax is harder (Cold Snow is harsher and more abrasive, and creates more friction that wears wax off faster), and Warm Wax is softer!!!!! 

Another factor is base structure!!!!! This creates little avenues for the displacement of the moisture created due to the friction, and makes the base glide faster yet again!!!!! 

I agree that an old plank of wood will still slide down the hill if ya have the gradient, but if ya wax that wood it will slide a whole lot better!!!!!


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## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

Mizu Kuma said:


> A good wax job is pretty much a necessity down under in Australia, and especially durin the warmer periods!!!!!
> 
> Wet snow can be like ridin in glue if you haven't got a good coat of wax on ya base!!!!!
> 
> ...


Pretty sure she understands the science behind all this. I agree with her but would say that a half assed job you sneak in between drinks will actually get you 95% of the performance of someone who obsesses over it assuming the same wax is used.


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

Oh yeah I agree wholeheartedly then!!!!!

I mean, the fark waxes their board without a drink?????

It's all about lubrication after all!!!!!


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## hardasacatshead (Aug 21, 2013)

Bloody hell! Between Mizu and TT there'll be no emoticons or exclamations marks left for anybody else on the internet.


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## ItchEtrigR (Jan 1, 2012)

Does anyone understand what they are reading here? Or even know who Kuzmin is?

Cuz your talking about waxing and linking to a thesis that basically concludes that waxing is waste of your time...

Kuzmin was the same quack that was pushing his base prep technology around the same time he published...


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

ItchEtrigR said:


> Does anyone understand what they are reading here? Or even know who Kuzmin is?
> 
> Cuz your talking about waxing and linking to a thesis that basically concludes that waxing is waste of your time...


Re-read... I didn’t link the thesis as a reference for my waxing statement. I inked it as an example on how "brain surgery like" the topic could get if you want to dive into it 

As I said, I'm with oldman on that topic, and keep it simple cos it worked well so far (based to unscientific simple observation, which may be wrong ) and I so far didn't feel the urge to spend days reading the science behind it, to understand studies and to determine why they may result in contoversional results - which is usually the case - to try to assess the quality of the study design and setup a.s.o.. cos I didn’t felt like needing more performance. So no, f00bar, I don't know the science behind this  Sorry, if I was unclear.


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## Argo (Feb 25, 2010)

I don't even scrape wax 90% of the time. Just let the snow take the layers off.... I only really pay attention to detail when it's sloppy wet out.....


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## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

neni said:


> Re-read... I didn’t link the thesis as a reference for my waxing statement. I inked it as an example on how "brain surgery like" the topic could get if you want to dive into it
> 
> As I said, I'm with oldman on that topic, and keep it simple cos it worked well so far (based to unscientific simple observation, which may be wrong ) and I so far didn't feel the urge to spend days reading the science behind it, to understand studies and to determine why they may result in contoversional results - which is usually the case - to try to assess the quality of the study design and setup a.s.o.. cos I didn’t felt like needing more performance. So no, f00bar, I don't know the science behind this  Sorry, if I was unclear.


You know enough of it, being the heat melts the wax, then it cools and you scrape it and in the end it melts the snow and makes you go zoom.

Anything else is over kill for most people.










:blowup:


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