# K2 Cinch CTX 2012 cable problem & questions?



## sldrose (Jan 18, 2012)

Hi,

I have just bought the K2 Cinch CTX 2012 online.

I know these bindings have been discussed in other posts, but i want to ask anyone who rides them some questions.

1. Every second run, the Cable slips out of the channel and i have to remove my gloves and fit them back into the channel. this is dangerous as i think the high back is locked, but my foot lifts out.
Has anyone else experienced this? can it be fixed?
looking for options for fixing as i bought these online so cant readily return them.

2. The highback lean looks like it is all the way back, but I prefer even less lean. they still feel a bit too far forward for my liking. The instructions are difficult to follow, is there any way to improve/reduce the lean?

3. What are your tips and tricks for getting into these bindings?
I still find myself struggling to balance whilst trying to get my back foot in.
i've found i can get in a bit easier if im toeside and kneel down, but if there is a better way or some tricks to get in i'd appreciate it.

thanks


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## sldrose (Jan 18, 2012)

no one had an issue with the cable slipping out of the channel?


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## KIRKRIDER (Mar 18, 2008)

No...I had the same bindings since last season. Not a problem. A picture would help understand the problem? Sounds like the binding is not strapped right and you have less tension on the cable.
If the forward lean is at zero already I don't think there is a way to reduce it. No tricks, other than buying a low profile boot (Burton Driver X in my case) and setting the bindings correctly. I bend on my knees on a edge and pull the back lever...done. They work like a charm for me.


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## sldrose (Jan 18, 2012)

KIRKRIDER said:


> No...I had the same bindings since last season. Not a problem. A picture would help understand the problem? Sounds like the binding is not strapped right and you have less tension on the cable.
> If the forward lean is at zero already I don't think there is a way to reduce it. No tricks, other than buying a low profile boot (Burton Driver X in my case) and setting the bindings correctly. I bend on my knees on a edge and pull the back lever...done. They work like a charm for me.


Thanks kirkrider,

yes the forward lean is already at zero, and i've increased the tension on the cable by using the allen key adjuster.
i've included a picture of where the cable slips out of the channel.

Yes, ive tried that trick to get in whilst kneeling, it works well (when the cable is working :dunno

I've tried contacting K2 and they say that this is the first they've heard of this problem.
They want me to go through the dealer which is hard cause I bought the binding online in the US.
I'm in Calgary.

(FYI - I tried to get the binding through my local shops, but no K2 dealer in Calgary had stock and I was told that they couldn't get stock from K2 either)

cheers


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## KIRKRIDER (Mar 18, 2008)

I had a similar problem when I aligned the highback with the board, as it should be. The cable was not symmetric anymore and would pop out of the guide. Reduce the angle of the highback respect to the edge of the board until the cable stays put. 

Another possibility is that the right side guide in your pic moved a bit, check that the screw is tightened and not moving. I see your right side cable attachment a bit high, there is a screw at the base of the ankle strap, make sure it is tight enough so that the cable attachment cannot rotate too much and go out of place.

Tighten the screws regulating the angle of the highback ( left and right, under the ankle straps attachments) make sure they are not loose letting the binding unaligned. They do loosen up.

ALSO:
There two small "bumps" for lack of a better term inside that piece that keep your cable aligned, forcing the cable to stay inside. Make sure that the cable is placed correctly in the first place. I am trying to replicate your issue on my binding...unsuccessfully.

Hope this helps!


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## hikeswithdogs (Sep 23, 2011)

I've been riding these for about a season and a half and have it happen 1 time, haven't adjusted a thing took them out of the box , mounted and rode.

Do you kick you highback forward when you skate?


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## sldrose (Jan 18, 2012)

KIRKRIDER said:


> I had a similar problem when I aligned the highback with the board, as it should be. The cable was not symmetric anymore and would pop out of the guide. Reduce the angle of the highback respect to the edge of the board until the cable stays put.
> 
> Another possibility is that the right side guide in your pic moved a bit, check that the screw is tightened and not moving. I see your right side cable attachment a bit high, there is a screw at the base of the ankle strap, make sure it is tight enough so that the cable attachment cannot rotate too much and go out of place.
> 
> ...


Thanks Kirkrider, ive tightened everything up and will try to get out this weekend and test it again.
i ride a pretty square stance, so I didnt need to realign the highback with the heel edge of the board. It's still at its factory setting.

the two small bumps are also still in the channel, and are not showing any signs that they are worn.

It's odd because at home I can't get it to pop out as regular as when i'm on the hill.

i'll let you know how it goes.

thanks for your help


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## sldrose (Jan 18, 2012)

hikeswithdogs said:


> I've been riding these for about a season and a half and have it happen 1 time, haven't adjusted a thing took them out of the box , mounted and rode.
> 
> Do you kick you highback forward when you skate?


hi hikeswithdogs, i do lift the highback forward when i skate, just with my hand, not kicking, I dont lock the highback up though. 
Then I push the highback backdown to get my foot in.

Now that you mention it, the cable slipping does happen more when i have to skate and after ive manually lifted and lowered the highback. (without using the rubber loop)
i find that things are smoother when i use the rubber loop to lift the highback rather than moving the highback into place directly.

what are your thoughts?


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## hikeswithdogs (Sep 23, 2011)

sldrose said:


> hi hikeswithdogs, i do lift the highback forward when i skate, just with my hand, not kicking, I dont lock the highback up though.
> Then I push the highback backdown to get my foot in.
> 
> Now that you mention it, the cable slipping does happen more when i have to skate and after ive manually lifted and lowered the highback. (without using the rubber loop)
> ...


I'm not sure exactly but I just know that a buddy of mine(with the same EXACT CTX year and model as me) had a major issue with the cable but he always kicked the kicked his high-back forward before he started skating, I've always just skated with my foot in front of my board so it's never been an issue for me.

not sure, go ahead and give it a shot and let us know if it made a difference. Good luck

BTW....I moved my Autoevers to my splitboard and put my Cinch's back on my resort board and I'm actually looking forward to having them back, hate to admit it but dam they are uber convenient.


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## KIRKRIDER (Mar 18, 2008)

sldrose said:


> Thanks Kirkrider, ive tightened everything up and will try to get out this weekend and test it again.
> i ride a pretty square stance, so I didnt need to realign the highback with the heel edge of the board. It's still at its factory setting.
> 
> the two small bumps are also still in the channel, and are not showing any signs that they are worn.
> ...


Might be a foot position problem then. What angles you ride with? Make sure your heel is touching the base and you don't have too much snow under your boot. It happened to me a couple of times. Especially after skating around on a pow day.
Enjoy!


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## d_hoot (Feb 18, 2012)

I have to pull up on the latch rather than the backplate to keep the cable in. I get in by digging a slot in the front to keep from skidding - then stepping in.


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## KIRKRIDER (Mar 18, 2008)

d_hoot said:


> I have to pull up on the latch rather than the backplate to keep the cable in. I get in by digging a slot in the front to keep from skidding - then stepping in.



That's what you should do... and make sure you don't have a bunch of snow under your boot...that will force the cable out of the guides when you tighten it. Another way is to use whatever is around. A tree, a trash can, a bench.... to help you hold your balance and lock in.


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## lisevolution (Sep 20, 2007)

This is one of the core issues I had that made me get rid of the CTX's from last season and switch to the Ever's which is what I should have gotten in the first place. The cable never stayed in the guide and it got worse when I rotated the highbacks. Also while the idea is that it's easier to get in, the truth in practice is that it's just as or more difficult to reach behind you as it is to bend over in the front and strap in.

They also had so much lateral play that I didn't feel secure riding them hard...


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## KIRKRIDER (Mar 18, 2008)

The assembly instruction do specify that you have to re tighten the cable IF you move your high backs..it's just mechanics...Never had an issue with my CTXs. A narrow profile boot helps too. I still find puling one single lever faster than adjusting two straps.


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## sldrose (Jan 18, 2012)

*Replaced for the Autos*

Hi everyone,
a quick update.

A local shop in Calgary was kind enough to speak to K2 on my behalf and organise an exchange for k2 National Autos.

I have to say i am very happy with the auto bindings, compared with the Cinch CTX.
The Cinch is a great idea, but not implemented well enough to be robust.

I dont know if i got a bad pair of CTX's, but they were too irratic with the cable slipping to be a convenience binding.

cheers.


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## Kwanzaa (Sep 4, 2011)

sldrose said:


> Hi everyone,
> a quick update.
> 
> A local shop in Calgary was kind enough to speak to K2 on my behalf and organise an exchange for k2 National Autos.
> ...


Auto's are solid bindings. My only complaint is the toe strap likes to trip you when getting out of the binding sometimes.


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## d_hoot (Feb 18, 2012)

I had the same problem - especially when pulling the highback up instead of pulling on the latch. I finally put a nylon screw in the binding close to the cable closest to the hinge. I used a 10-24 screw and used a 10-28 tap so the threads lock. No more problems.


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## edlo (Jan 24, 2011)

*Cable solution zip ties*

Here is my solution , it works pretty well. I used yellow so you can see it better. My cts have a hole that I feed the zip ties through , easier than the screw tap solution. The problem is when you pull the high back up . It pulls the front buckle down without creating tension on the cable. The cable is pushed down and back. I have some of the original cinch that didn't have this problem. By the way I just put them on eBay.


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## edlo (Jan 24, 2011)

*Cinch Cable Problem and solution*

I don't know why there are holes in the heel cup , but they make a good place for zip ties for a cable retention system. 

1) This is caused by friction between the cable and the heel cup when you kick the highback forward

2) The friction creates tension and tilts the heel cup.

3) The tilt brings down the buckles and creates slack with nowhere to go.

4) the slack pushes the cable backwards out of the guides.

5) When you pull the lock, the cables is already out of place

The original cinch had different cables and also a loop around the cables near the latch.

I was going to try teflon lube to reduce the friction, but found zip ties to be a far better solution.


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