# DIY canting?



## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

Seems like canting is a good way to go. Especially if you have a wider stance.
I am 6ft tall and mostly ride a 158 with a standard stance (both bindings in the centered position or both with the same setback).
To be honest I have never felt my knees to be stressed (maybe my height reduces the stress a little). 
My 2011 cartel bindings don't have canting and are tip top so I don't want to buy new shit for the sake of it.

I love to DIY stuff rather than buy new stuff when possible. Call me a cheapskate thats cool with me.

I recently DIY'd a camber Volkl board of mine, I gave it a low rise tip for extra float (so far no loss of rocker or sign of damage but yet to ride it).

Seems like it would be easy to add a little rubber strip or something to the base plate (under the foot bed) thus achieving a little canting.

Anyone done this?

Any thoughts on it?

I like new technology, but sometimes its tiring that they release a little something each year to temp us to buy the new model. If it can be done DIY why not?


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

I ride the widest stance on my board, and it feels really uncomfortable the first few runs and every time I strap in so I'm looking forward to getting my Mob bindings with canting.


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

Damn, the widest stance on the board. What are the benefits of that? sounds like a pain. 
Sure I can see why you would want canting.


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

It sure can be, but I just ride a lot of park and i feel like you can have a better sense of your board. You can really tell where the board is without looking at it because your feet are so close to the tip and tail that you can sense where it is. Idk it's kind of hard to explain. The other part. I just think it looks weird to me the closer your feet are together. I'm not buying into the stupid bandanna, pants on the ground, tall tee style. I am just really anal about my stance. I think with my new board though I might go one in. I'm starting to realize it looks even dumber having them that far apart.


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

For me its just about comfort and my style of riding. 
I don't hit the park, I mostly freeride the slackcountry. Lots of pow here in Japan. For that and my height 22.5 inches seems to work great (the regular stance width on my boards). I ride a very long distance each day, so I wouldn't want it any wider.

Still I might experiment with a little wider stance for some more freestlye runs while the snow is building up in the slackcountry.

Anyone any thoughts on DIY canting?

What degree of cant in used in canted footbeds?

I figure a strip of hard rubber on the outside edge of my footbeds (underside) should work nicely. Shouldn't stop my inetraction with the board and I can always remove it if needed.


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## Nivek (Jan 24, 2008)

I did it with duct tape on a set. It works well enough. Go to a shop and ask if you can snag the foam that gets shipped in Ride or K2 bindings. Its maybe 2-3mm thick and cuts easy. Should make for easy DIY.


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## skycdo (Sep 15, 2011)

If you were to make your own DIY cantbet I would buy some anti-fatigue membrane(I think Lowe's sells it). It has a soft rubbery feel to it and is thick so you can cut away at it and make it one solid piece.


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

As far as I can see I need something that I can easily cut to shape and is maybe 3-4 millimeters thick. 
It needs to be firm enough that it won't hinder pressure transfer from my foot to the board. Also light is a bonus. I have a friend in a board shop here so perhaps he can hook me up with something appropriate. 

Thanks all. Will let you know how it goes.

Anyone else going to try the DIY cant?


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## Sick-Pow (May 5, 2008)

I think DIY would be the way to go with this, reverse -ble . Add some kind of plastic riser, layers of duct tape, or similar?


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

Years ago built 20mm risers for my daughter, the plates were the exact footprint of the bindings so that it didn't effect the flex of the board...like the old palmer plates do. They were made out of high densinty plastic ...like plastic cutting board material...its really easy to shape and drill with standard wood working tools, also used thick rubber intertube like rubber sheets for dampening. The high density plastic is pretty bomb proof and it would be easy to do a thin riser that is canted. However you got to get the screw lenght figured out. If you want, I'll try to post some pics later.


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

Sounds pretty sweet. Pics would be nice. Might be tricky to get the angle of cant right though. Unless you had a really nice saw (which I don't). I am thinking I only need to raise up the outer side of each footbed 3~5 millimeters. 

Does anyone know what kind of angle the cant is on bindings that have it?

that would be the model to work towards as they have no doubt spent time and effort researching this.


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## oskar (Nov 23, 2010)

SKI BINDING CANT STRIP- 1 DEGREE


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

oskar said:


> SKI BINDING CANT STRIP- 1 DEGREE


Bingo, thanks Oskar:thumbsup::thumbsup:.


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## oskar (Nov 23, 2010)

No problem mate, that site is the shiznitz for modding/repairing.


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## hhaidar (Feb 1, 2011)

awesome find. may have to monkey with some of that myself this winter.


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

they offer a choice of cant angles. I plan to experiment to see what feels good for me before ordering.
Any excuse to fiddle around and get strapped into my board is a bonus. 
Anyone else practice their presses and 180s in the living room? No snow yet so its all I have.


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## Kahanquest (Aug 24, 2011)

I would also look at in-soles for foot canting. The footbed is helpful, but I think aligning your feet inside the boot is just as important and affective. Http://www.shredSoles.com


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

I hike in my boots a fair bit and not so sure I want my boots canted.
Also 4 degrees seems like a lot. The wedges in the bindings come with a choice and I will probably go with a low cant maybe 1.5 degrees. Still experimenting to make sure that will work.

Look like nice insoles though.


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## hhaidar (Feb 1, 2011)

other instructor friends and I had a long conversation yesterday about the benefits of canted insoles vs canted bindings. I think its something we are going to explore this winter. I lean toward the canted binding but it will be cool to test the two out and compare.


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## Kahanquest (Aug 24, 2011)

Yeah, the insoles give a high degree. Worth looking for less effect and may even make the boot have less space. Worth a test for sure.I think the binding would override the insole because it would align the boot itself, pulling you into regular position with the insole. One's cheaper than the other! Unless DIY.


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

The soles look good too, but I am going to buy some 2 degree binding cant strips from the company above. Its a little cheaper and after experimenting with some rubber shims I made I think 2 degrees is plenty for my body.
I will let you know how they feel after the snow finally blesses us with its presence.


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## hhaidar (Feb 1, 2011)

I'm inclined to prefer canted bindings...but I haven't tried the insoles. My thought is to compare canted insoles vs a DIY cant job to see which is the better "low budget special."


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

Its not that low budget. The insoles are 45 dollars. 2 canted binding strips are 30 dollars.
The cant strips are the budget option.
If you compare DIY insoles with DIY binding cant that may be a good comparison.


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## ScottVD (Jan 19, 2011)

Maybe I'm missing something obvious, but how is a 2 1/4" strip going to fit under a snowboard binding? Seems way too narrow? Has anyone used this yet? I'd think the strip would need to support all perimeter edges of the binding to work properly..


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

You're right the strips are not wide enough. I have been using rubber shims at home to get the idea, but unless you keep the whole binding in contact with the base its not a solid solution.
I emailed the company and they said the same. 
The insoles could be next on my list. Too bad they only offer 4 degrees of cant its quite a lot.


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## ScottVD (Jan 19, 2011)

dreampow said:


> You're right the strips are not wide enough. I have been using rubber shims at home to get the idea, but unless you keep the whole binding in contact with the base its not a solid solution.
> I emailed the company and they said the same.
> The insoles could be next on my list. Too bad they only offer 4 degrees of cant its quite a lot.


Yeah, was thinking the same thing- wondering if the insoles are 4* but when ur foot gets in there the effective angle is less- since the material will give some? Wonder if a sheet of hdpe cut out for the shape of binding and sanded down for a cant effect would work well..


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

dreampow said:


> Sounds pretty sweet. Pics would be nice. Might be tricky to get the angle of cant right though. Unless you had a really nice saw (which I don't). I am thinking I only need to raise up the outer side of each footbed 3~5 millimeters.
> 
> Does anyone know what kind of angle the cant is on bindings that have it?
> 
> that would be the model to work towards as they have no doubt spent time and effort researching this.


finally got around digging them out and taking some pics, you could cant by using a bench sander or a bandsaw. The black tape is rubber strips that go down on the board to prevent them from moving, also act as a bit of dampening.


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

pretty nice risers there. Nice work. I am still looking at options and right now I am thinking a cut to shape strip of rubber under the foot bed as opposed to shims under the whole binding. 
Its a cheap and simple solution. I also don't want to raise up the whole binding much. The good thing is it'll be cheap and easy to scrap if I find a flaw. 
On my 2011 cartels it should work the way the foot beds are, I don't think I will get a gap either because the foam is pretty flexible.
I will post up some pics once they are done.


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## ShredLife (Feb 6, 2010)

snowboard binding cant plate - a set on Flickr


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## glm (Aug 12, 2011)

Instead of putting something beneath the binding like a lot of people have said, if you put a piece of rubber on the outside of the top side of your binding, would that work? Or would it make your boot get out of sync too much with the highback?


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## SnowBrdScotty (Apr 4, 2009)

http://www.snowboardingforum.com/bindings/42811-diy-canting.html#post436542


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## honeycomb (Feb 6, 2011)

glm said:


> Instead of putting something beneath the binding like a lot of people have said, if you put a piece of rubber on the outside of the top side of your binding, would that work? Or would it make your boot get out of sync too much with the highback?


Yeah it does work :thumbsup: I didn't feel like waiting for next years Flow bindings to have canting, and I saw these rubber rectangles in my garage... I used black rubber, about 3/8" thick, similar hardness to a car tire. I would recommend using a different material, this stuff is a PITA to work with, use a new razor blade and bend the slit open as you cut. If you can manage to cut the black rubber, it's a great material for cant pads and should last forever. I just used a bunch of small rolls of duck tape to attach them on the base of the binding, not sure how long it will hold for. When the duct tape wears out I'll drill holes through them so I can get to the screws then epoxy them on.









You can see where I trimmed the heel of the boot so the highback goes up and down easier










A few more pictures of them here- CaNT Pads - Imgur

I rotated the highbacks closer to parallel with the edge after taking the pictures, the boots hang off the inside of the highback a bit, but I don't think it's enough to be a problem. I've got one more chunk of rubber, gonna make another set for my Ride bindings.


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

nice job,

I just couldn't be bothered in the end and focused work on my DIY rocker

http://www.snowboardingforum.com/boards/41447-make-your-own-all-mountain-hybrid.html

she will be on snow for the first time this week and not just snow, epic powder as we are having a massive dump of snow in Nagano right now with low temps so should be amazing.

I may get back to the cant pads.

Did you find the canting made a difference to your riding?

comfort?

control, ollies?


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## honeycomb (Feb 6, 2011)

It feels really comfortable standing on the carpet, went boarding the last 2 days but I just made the pads today. I'll be going twice this week so I'll let you know how they feel on the hill.

I never thought about trying to bend the camber out of an old board...sounds like some fun


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## honeycomb (Feb 6, 2011)

I changed a couple of pics in the album, forgot the one of the epoxy to fix where I cut through the rubber. I just smeared some epoxy in the cut and over it then put a piece of duct tape on it, can barely see it on top except for the epoxy is shiny. If I wasn't just using free rubber and other things I have laying around I'd use some hard rubbery foam instead, cutting through ~3" of solid hard rubber with a razor knife isn't fun, those 2 pieces were one 9"x5"x3/8" piece, cut diagonally the hard way. Doing a few layers to build thickness on the outside with one big piece on top would be much easier, but my way will probably out-last the others.


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## honeycomb (Feb 6, 2011)

Quick update, I've been sick for the last few days(might have notice my excessive posting here...) but I finally got a chance to ride this setup yesterday and it felt GREAT. My carving felt a bit smoother, more comfortable with a wider stance(21"-24", I'll measure later, not sure what I settled on), and easier to press. My boots are extra soft and even with the stiff Evil Twin I could get the nose up ~2' and lay down on the snow behind my board, and I can hold it all the way down my little 300' vertical hill. My 153 FunKink came today and I'm going to ride it now, I'll let you know how I like them on a softer board.

Also made another set for my Ride EX bindings on my honeycomb, a friend is riding that one tonight, might switch with him a bit and see how it feels.

They do make it a bit harder to get my foot into the flow bindings, but not enough difference to matter.


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