# Changing glued in bindings?



## aubzobot (Feb 19, 2011)

Hey guys. 

Last year I bought some new bindings and the shop offered to put them on. I guess they used locktight or something cause I cant get them out. I didnt realize until i'd stripped most of the screws. How do i go about getting the bindings off without ruining them, or the board theyre attached too?

Thanks


----------



## slyder (Jan 18, 2010)

If they used Red Loctite you might be SOL !!!!!

I have no idea if you could use a penetrating oil or not. NO idea if it would wreck the materials inside the board as it soaks in. I'm sure someone will chime in on that method.

This is also why I loosen the bindings on all of our boards while they sit over the summer.

you may need to grind off the screw heads to remove the base plates then geta bolt extractor to get them out but that is worse-case-senario


----------



## geolemon (Oct 6, 2012)

Well, now that you've stripped the screws you might be in a real "sorry, tough luck" scenario. You should have noticed the screw heads stripping because the screwdriver was popping out of the screw, jumping rather than turning.

What you could do, IF you have enough left on the head of the screw, is to use an impact driver. You probably don't want to spend the $200 to buy one, but borrow one from any friend of yours who does construction. It looks like an electric drill, but what it does is completely different. It's a miniature version of the impact gun they use on cars to free rusted and torqued big bolts.

All you need to do is use the right size screwdriver bit on it, and it'll hammer them free. You'll be mind-blown at how easy it is.

But if the screw heads are too stripped, you might be out of luck.


----------



## aubzobot (Feb 19, 2011)

Theyre not too bad, and its only the right binding i stripped them on. My older brother owns a construction renovation business so ill see if he has one. If that doesnt work i guess ill grind em off.


----------



## slyder (Jan 18, 2010)

You can still use an impact hammer with a straight blade screw driver attachment.

Take a dremmel tool with a cutting wheel and CAREFULLY, since you F'ed it up already, cut a groove into the top of the screw head. Then use the impact screw driver to help drive it out. 










Make sense???


----------



## aubzobot (Feb 19, 2011)

Yup. Make sense. One of the first times ive ever really needed my dremel.


----------



## ShredLife (Feb 6, 2010)

if they used red loctite you need to heat it to something like 400 or maybe 600 degrees to get it to let go...

obviously you can't take a blowtorch to a snowboard but you might be able to torch a screwdriver seated in the screw and get enough of the heat to transfer... or get a soldering gun and use that to heat it, one screw at a time..


----------



## slyder (Jan 18, 2010)

another old school mechanics trick.
Don't just try to loosen. When working witha stuck bolt or nut we loosen then tighten, loosen, tighten until it starts to free up.
You might also try this trick.


----------



## hvalley76 (Oct 17, 2007)

Get one of these. Invaluable if you ever work on a motorcycle engine too.
$5.99 for a cheap one @ harbor freight but it will work for what you're doing


----------



## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

slyder said:


> You can still use an impact hammer with a straight blade screw driver attachment.
> 
> Take a dremmel tool with a cutting wheel and CAREFULLY, since you F'ed it up already, cut a groove into the top of the screw head. Then use the impact screw driver to help drive it out.
> 
> ...


:thumbsup:I was going to suggest the same thing, I just had to do that about 2 weeks ago.

I really don't understand why someone, after stripping the first one, would continue to strip all the rest too?:dunno:

I had to do all 4 on one binding.

TT


----------



## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

Never done it to a snowboard but you may have to drill out the screws. If you've got a buddy with a drill press it's much easier than using a handheld drill.

If all else fails its the only way to take it apart without butchering the bindings and board.

Main thing is to get a good HSS bit just slightly thinner than the threads (use a screw that you've taken out or any standard binding screw as a guide)... If there are some threads left in the hole you can clean that out with a tap (i.e. from a tap and die set).

Now that I think about it if you don't already have these tools just take it to the board shop you bought it from! Which hacks did it, Mission or Source?


----------



## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

You might have to grind the heads off.

Then the binding will come off & you'll have maybe 1/4 inch of screw to work with.

I'd try some vise grips maybe @ that point.

Grinding the head off might also heat it up enough to break loose.

TT


----------



## geolemon (Oct 6, 2012)

Snowolf said:


> Shredlife has the best solution. Heat is the standard method for red loctite removal. This is super easy with metal parts, but you need to work carefully. Do as Shred said and heat the shaft of your screwdriver and keep as much metal to metal contact as possible. Use a small hand held propane torch and keep trying to break it free as you apply heat and be carefully not to overheat and take too much time.
> 
> I would also keep a can of water handy to cool the insert as soon as you get the screw out. Also, allow the board to completely cool before going on to the next screw.


Applying heat will damage both the binding and the snowboard around the inserts. Don't use heat. That's great for bolts on a car - but even on a car you don't use a torch if the bolt you are loosening is near rubber lines or wires or anything else that will be damaged by heat. By the time the nut expands with heat to loosen a touch, those wires or lines will be trashed.

The impact gun will take care of it, no heat required. 
There were some good suggestions here for cutting a slot if required to use a flathead if the screwheads are too far gone. You might cut a bit into the binding disc, but probably will be OK in that respect as well.

Good luck - minimize collateral damage - don't use a torch.


----------



## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

I was thinkin the same thing, why risk it?

An impact driver would work like butter, I just did it about 9 days ago.
But I didn't need to use my impact driver, once a slot was made it turned.


So it looks like shedhead, doesn't have the best solution:cheeky4:

Chalk one up for Slyder & Tim Tim.

TT


----------



## ShredLife (Feb 6, 2010)

if it has been red loctited an impact driver will just snap the boltheads off... you goddamn retard.


----------



## duh (Sep 7, 2011)

What brand of binder is stuck to the board? Does it have a plastic disc that can be easily replaced with a simple email to customer service? If so then you can always cut apart the disc to allow full access to the stuck bolts. Then a simple pair of vise grips, with an extension for a little leverage, will solve the problem. 

This way you avoid using a torch or an impact driver on the board, not so good for your board. If in fact the shop used loc-tite on your board NEVER LET THEM TOUCH YOUR BOARD AGAIN.


----------



## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

Just my 2 cents. The red loctite hypothesis is just an assumption. 

All we know is that the OP stripped his screws. They could just be in their tight with blue loctite. Surely there are very few board shops stupid enough to use red loctite. Anyone knows for lots of different reasons bindings need to come off the board. 

I would take it to a shop, preferably the shop that screwed them in so tight and get them to deal with it. At least get them to clarify if they did indeed do such a moronic thing as to use red loctite. Once we know what the situation is for sure, it will be easier to solve and might just be a simple job (if no red loctite is involved).


----------



## slyder (Jan 18, 2010)

Hey guys this is also assuming that he used the right screw driver and didn't round them off because the wrong size screw driver head.

I"m constantly removing my bindings when I wax my board, another assumption since OP'er didn't say. I wonder if he ever loosened or removed his bindings the whole season. I'm guessing not since they are in there so good.

I also can't see a shop using red loctite but we all know not all shops are great.

To wolfs idea I would just point out that the OP'er had better make sure the torch tip is at minimal parallel to keep as much extra heat away from the board as possible. Maybe lay some wet towels around the top of the board to prevent heat wash and possible overheating of the board.

It may also be worth the $5-$15 to just take it to a shop, any shop and say I F'ed this up can you get these out. I'm sure they have seen this before.

We all had good ideas, depends really on the OP'ers skill level of using different tools. Everyone is trying to get him out of a jam he created.
Good luck and hope the outcome is positive.


----------



## Bones (Feb 24, 2008)

I've done the heat thing to free stuck nuts and bolts many times. 

One technique that I've used when I'm concerned about damaging the surrounding area is to use a soldering pencil. Plug it in, heat it up and prop it up on a piece of wood so that the tip is resting on the screw but the rest of the pencil is safely away. Let it sit for 15 minutes, take it away and melt an ice cube on the screw.

It may take a while for the screw to absorb enough heat, but I've never damaged the surrounding area


----------



## geolemon (Oct 6, 2012)

ShredLife said:


> if it has been red loctited an impact driver will just snap the boltheads off... you goddamn retard.


Your statement couldn't be more incorrect- you goddamn regard. Lol. Wow.

An impact driver exists specifically to remove stuck, rusted, over-torqued bolts (or screws) without breaking them... in scenarios where using tools like breaker bars would snap bolts.

An impact driver applies a vibration-like impact force that is both more effective and gentler on the bolt.

And red loctite is really no big deal. Even if they used more than a dab of it.

But you are calling other people retards? You need to start knowing what you are talking about before exposing yourself as ignorant - in writing for all the world to see.


----------



## Argo (Feb 25, 2010)

I would just get pissed off, destroy the whole fucking board and buy a new board and new base plates after I ripped my bindings off. perfect excuse for a new board.


----------



## geolemon (Oct 6, 2012)

Snowolf said:


> So you have worked in a ski and board shop and have done this?
> 
> Obviously, you don't take the torch to the board or bolt directly. You heat the shaft of the driver and the heat transfers down the shaft to the screw. The screw itself heats up to the 350-400 very quickly and if you work reasonably quickly, the loctite become pliable befor much heat is transferred to the insert.
> 
> I have removed stuck binding screws like this many times and never damaged a board or a binding. You are more likely to really do more damage with the force of an impact driver. The amount of force typically needed to break apart the hardened red loctite will snap the heads right off of the insert screws long before the loctite gives. I little heat as described will have way more effect than simply using more brute force.


Don't backtrack and get this kid's equipment screwed up because you want to look like an expert on an internet forum. Replying "I've done this hundreds of times" doesn't make it less BS. It's dangerous.
I've probably been snowboarding longer than you've been alive, I've worked on all means of snowboards (and skis, before snowboards existed, in the 80s) over the years, and I'd never bring a torch near a board... closest thing would be a p-tex candle to fill a gouge. And even then, I wouldn't be lighting it with a torch, would I? (Since you claim to work at a shop, you know that -RIGHT?)

Heat expands metal. Just like a stuck bolt on a car. You'd heat the surrounding metal to expand it from the bolt to free the bolt. That's physics. That's how you use heat to free stuck bolts on cars, you heat the surrounding area. Heating the bolt will expand the bolt, making it harder to remove.
In this case, we can't anyway. We have a metal insert, a sleeve, that's simply bonded to our fiberglass/plastic/wood composite snowboard... And we couldn't get to the insert even if you had a micro-torch with heat shields, because there's a very melty plastic-and-foam binding in the way - the thing he's trying to loosen. 
In a car, there's no collateral damage from heating a bolt - the surrounding area is solid metal. That's not the case here... not even close.

There's no reason to jeopardize this kid's binding. There's no reason to jeopardize the integrity of this kid's snowboard- particularly the insert that's bonded into the snowboard - with a torch.

No one - I mean NO ONE - who worked at a shop would ever - EVER - take a torch to customer equipment! The liability alone is obvious. If an employee took it upon themselves to "go rogue", bring in their own torch, and exercise this kind of stupidity on customer equipment, they'd be fired for liability alone. Imagine being a shop owner, walking in and seeing some kid holding a torch to your customer's gear?

Heat works to loosen stuck bolts on cars. If that's your mechanical expertise, leave it in the garage. Don't screw up this kid's equipment.

No one is advocating using brute force that I've seen here. The proper tool for this job is an impact gun.


----------



## Argo (Feb 25, 2010)

Lmao........


----------



## Argo (Feb 25, 2010)

The problem most likely isn't locktite.... It's the fact that these screws were installed in winter when it was cold. Now that it is warm where he is the metal is a nanometer or so bigger and stuck. Heat would make it tighter unless yo heated the metal insert in the board and cooled the screw. Heating the insert would fuck up the setting of it. Don't heat the screw or insert. If anything you should cool it down in a deep freeze or by setting it out on the porch over night when it's cold out. I live in the mountains so remember tha cold to me is under 10F. 

This is why bolts come loose on the mountain too, aside from the lateral force. If the screws were tightened inside your 75 degree house then taken outside, they are now not set.... This allows the lateral force to pull and loosen the screws. I typically tighten my screws on my porch and never have to screw with them again..... They are stupid tight if I try to remove them in the spring/summer. Proper driver head helps to prevent stripping the heads when tight.


----------



## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)




----------



## geolemon (Oct 6, 2012)

Exactly.  That's a good thought on when the bolts were tightened.

If an impact driver isn't available through any of your friends or family, then rather than waiting until it's cold, you could drop by your local convenience store and buy a $5 bag of ice. Pour the rest into a cooler so it doesn't melt, in case you need to try numerous times. 
Make a pile of ice inside your binding, so that it cools the bolt heads directly. And let it sit for a good long while.

In theory, that should cool the bolts, while the board more or less stays at room temperature (or outside temperature - I don't think you want ice melting indoors), which just might do the trick.

*And that won't damage anything.*

EDIT: in the event anyone thinks heat is a good idea on a snowboard, read up: Removing stuck fasteners
And in the event that you DO borrow an impact driver:


> A pneumatic or electric impact [driver]can loosen most any fastener


Just make sure you don't use it to re-install your bindings - that vibrational force can over-tighten just as easily as it can loosen things that were over-tightened.


----------



## slyder (Jan 18, 2010)

You could also just wack the end of the screw driver. You don't need an impact driver for such a simple item. You won't break the tool or the board and if you do screw drivers are cheap, much cheaper than buying an impact driver.

This thread seems to have taken a turn for the worse.....Egos are on fire here


----------



## ShredLife (Feb 6, 2010)

geolemon said:


> Your statement couldn't be more incorrect- you goddamn regard. Lol. Wow.
> 
> An impact driver exists specifically to remove stuck, rusted, over-torqued bolts (or screws) without breaking them... in scenarios where using tools like breaker bars would snap bolts.
> 
> ...


i called timmyTARD a retard because he is a retard, you whiney pussy.

_Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the *permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners.* The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. *It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500*°F (260°C)._

you don't have a clue what you're talking about.


----------



## Bones (Feb 24, 2008)

My impact driver is great for taking stuck nuts off bolts. Not quite as good for taking bolts out of threaded holes as it can snap the bolt head off.

For taking screws out of things? It's 50/50 on rounding out a Robertson or Phillips head, depends on the "mesh" between the bit and the screw. If you're stripping out the head by hand, an impact driver is probably just going to do that faster.

All this is assuming that Red Loctite is the problem. I'd suspect that they're just torqued up a bit much and there's a little rust. Give them a good shot of PB Blaster every day for a couple of days and try again.


----------



## slyder (Jan 18, 2010)

Bones said:


> Give them a good shot of PB Blaster every day for a couple of days and try again.


Will this adversely affect the inside of the board is my question...


----------



## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

aubzobot said:


> Hey guys.
> 
> Last year I bought some new bindings and the shop offered to put them on. I guess they used locktight or something cause I cant get them out. I didnt realize until i'd stripped most of the screws. How do i go about getting the bindings off without ruining them, or the board theyre attached too?
> 
> Thanks


To save this thread from getting any worse, bring the board up to Airdrie and I'll get the screws out.  I'll take a 6-pack of Brewsters River City...


----------



## Chandler789 (Oct 7, 2012)

Go ahead and ignore most of the arguing in this thread.

--

I have tried all of these methods in a lot of different scenarios. I work on motorcycles and small engines on the side.

Using the dermal to cut into the screw is not a bad idea, but I have a better one.

Using a impact wrench (electric or air) is also not a bad idea. The problem is this though:
Impact drivers are meant to implement a high amount of direct torque to free a bolt. Obviously no one is talking about using an air tool to do this, but think of it like that, 300-600lbs of torque on a screw head that will most likely snap off at about 30lbs of over tightening will probably break with the loctite, especially is applied quickly.​
I am surprised I have not seen this suggested in this thread yet, ever heard of an EZ- out kit? Drill the screw out!

You do not need to use an expensive extractor, you can get these tools for five dollars at your hardware store. You only need two, a drill bit, and a square bit, The bit needs to be SLIGHLT smaller then the square bit.

You will use the bit to drill a hole straight into the screw, then hammer the square bit into the hole, creating a square hole out of the round one, and forcing the bit in place.

Leave the bit in, do not remove it. If you have an easy on/off attachment I would use that with the drill because now you have to get the drill onto the square bit which is still connected to the screw and board. Do not wiggle the bit or it will come free. Try to get the bit as deep as possible.


Put the drill in reverse and apply a tight tiger, do NOT use it like a torque wrench, you will strip the head again assuming it is an aluminum screw.

It should come free. If not, you can try a torque wrench at this point, and if that further strips it, a true east out drill extraction kit. (Reverse drill bit)

Here is a square drill bit, I would look for one with a bit more length on the actual bit.


----------



## Bones (Feb 24, 2008)

slyder said:


> Will this adversely affect the inside of the board is my question...


If it does, it was going to happen anyway.

Screw inserts are basically just glued into place. PB Blaster is a rust catalyst. If, for some bizarre reason, it it gets in and around the insert and then , for some bizarre reason, weakens the glue/resin, then the freeze/thaw cycle of melted snow is going to do the same thing.

Personally, I'd try PB Blaster. And then a whack with a hammer. And then some heat. After that's it's game on...drilling it out and re-threading, etc. I've even been known to tack weld a screwdriver bit on, but usually, by that point, I just want to win.


----------



## P3 Mammoth (Dec 3, 2011)

Bolt heads strip out with very little torque if there is not enough downward pressure on the tool, basic mechanics. Our shop has literally hundreds of bolts with stripped out heads that have NEVER seen any loc-tite. I wouldn't assume that the board has been loc-tited, no reputable shop would ever do that for multiple reasons. I agree with what was posted previously that if they did use loc-tite don't ever let that shop touch your equipment again. Any shop with kids stupid enough to use loc-tite probably has a problem with repair/tech work in general.

Heat is not your board's friend and should be avoided at ALL COSTS. As was stated above it takes around 500 degrees to break down red loc-tite, epoxy also breaks down at these temperatures. Epoxy resin holds your board together and helps keep your inserts from spinning. Not to mention the fact that heating the screw will damage the disc holding the binding to the board. 

Impact drivers aren't really that much better of a solution. Too much torque on the seized peices can work the inserts loose and allow them to spin. Be carefull with using a hammer also. The downward force can easily break the epoxy loose and allow spinning or worse it could push the entire assembly through the core and bubble the base. Ignore what a gunsmith tells you, he is working with components much stronger and resilient than the wood and epoxy core of your typical snowboard. In the battle between wood and metal, metal wins every time.

First advice, take it to a shop that knows what the heck they doing. If you are the DIY type, doubtfull as you let someone else set up your board already, slot the head with a dremel or use an easy out kit. If the screw head still strips out at that point then cut away the discs and get the binding off the board, discs are the cheapest part of your set-up to replace. Once the bolts are exposed you will be able to tell if the shop used loc-tite. If there is no loc-tite the bolt should turn out fairly easily.


----------



## Chandler789 (Oct 7, 2012)

Bones said:


> I've even been known to tack weld a screwdriver bit on, but usually, by that point, I just want to win.


I've done that as well.

Can you put new thread inserts into a board? Don't most of them have a plate in them now?


----------



## aubzobot (Feb 19, 2011)

Okay. Im gonna skip over the all the bickering here. The guys at the Source weren't dumb enought to use red loctite, just the blue stuff. I just heated up the screwdriver with the torch, put it in the head for a little then turned. Screws came out. Thanks for all the advice and now ive got bindings on my new board.


----------



## geolemon (Oct 6, 2012)

ShredLife said:


> i called timmyTARD a retard because he is a retard, you whiney pussy.
> 
> _Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the *permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners.* The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. *It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500*°F (260°C)._
> 
> you don't have a clue what you're talking about.


That you even typed that out shows you don't have any real life experience with loctite. That's a nice marketing snippet you copied.

I've spent about 15 years in production fabrication both hobby and professionally, and my whole life as a car enthusiast, working on my own cars and projects, and I've used plenty of loctite across more applications than I can think of... I can tell you this - you don't need 500 degrees or generally much more than a standard wrench to break it free. Even red loctite (which used to be "the only loctite").
It's purpose is the equivalent of using a locknut rather than a standard nut, in application... so your bolts don't vibrate loose, in a high-temperature application like an engine.

And again - if a shop used red loctite on a snowboard, that would show ignorance on part of that employee, and they would have been going rogue by doing something like that, since that would never be a truly professional shop's policy. We don't even know that's the case here - and if any loctite actually was used, we don't know what type. 

I suspect as mentioned earlier, this relates to trying to get them off in warm weather.... and heating the bolts will make things worse in that respect. 

Think. Don't vomit ignorance out of your mouth and say it's the rest of the world who doesn't know what they are talking about. Reality is a real thing. Get out there and experience it... then speak from experience, not ignorance.


----------



## slyder (Jan 18, 2010)

5 pages of ideas and it's out in 5 seconds so uneventful ...


----------



## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

Ya, I had a feeling there wouldn't be any red loctite in there.

It was never stated that there was loctite on the screws, but thanks for the lesson.:thumbsdown:

Snowwolf, just because someone disagrees with your opinion, doesn't mean that theirs is wrong & that yours is automatically right. 
But I'm sure you'd disagree with me on that too, so obviously I must be wrong?:cheeky4this means it's a joke) I really don't want to have to write that after every :cheeky4: that I post.



You seem to have got a little but hurt, no need for temper tantrums.

So it looks like shedhead, doesn't have the best solution

Chalk one up for Slyder & Tim Tim.

I'm not seein' the hate in there anywhere, + I don't know if you want a pissing match with someone with piss-menship like this?
Untitled on Vimeo.

I'd pee a Z across your chest before you could even get your diaper off. :cheeky4:

I'm actually pretty careful, considering the shit I do. If I wasn't, I would have died long ago.

Shredhead, it's just cause you have a vagina that you see the things I do as retarded. So wash the sand out of that thing:cheeky4:
They're not self cleaning ovens you know!!

Sometimes my extremely large balls are a little too big though, so I should be able to lend you @ least 1.

Hugs & kisses
TT


----------



## geolemon (Oct 6, 2012)

Snowolf said:


> Listen, there was no call for your prickish, condescending tone here when my response was civil and courteous. No one other than YOU is trying to look like an internet expert and now because someone DARED to disagree with you you write and angry response like an asshurt 12 year old sheila. I did not reply to your post with disrespect or vitriol like a little cunt, you did. I guess you lack the inteligence to actually have a disagreement in a civil repectful manner.
> 
> The method I advised works and YES shops do in fact do this. Not only that, but gunsmiths use the exact same method to remove a part (usually a scope) that had Loctite or some other adhesive used. Heat damages bluing so you have to be as careful as when working with skis or snowboards.
> 
> ...


Hey - pot, that kettle is looking pretty black.
I don't think "Oh, so you've worked at a shop?" could be interpreted as anything but prickish and condescending. Don't accuse me of that - I responded. 

Further, I actually explained the logic on WHY what you said was risky and unprofessional, and if he used that method and it worked for him, it doesn't make it any less so.
I was looking out for his best interest by pointing out the risks. That certainly doesn't make me uncivil.

If you are going to make threats to people who post on behalf of people's best interest, that's pretty immature (that's a judgement on my part) and very inappropriate (that's objective) for someone who's in a position of being a moderator. Call all that "my opinion" and do with it what you like.
Like it or not, you are a moderator. There's responsibility in that. You've got a higher standard to adhere to (I'm a moderator myself on an engineering forum,and an automotive forum). Your personally challenging comment that I responded to was inappropriate by that measure, and certainly had disrespect and vitriol - as does this:


Snowolf said:


> I guess you lack the inteligence


It's "intelligence" btw.

I apologize for my reaction, if that came through stronger than the points I made. Certainly there was some reaction there.


----------



## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

Snowolf said:


> WTF?
> 
> Where are you getting this from? I gave advice and posted some techniques and disagreed with another`s adivce and for that you claim I am butthurt or having tantrums yet look at the way this guy eresponded to me.....:dunno:
> 
> ...


I too will never back down if I believe I'm right. 
You might have been right if there was loctite on the screw, it was never stated that there was though.
So you didn't know the facts. You just assumed you did:dunno:. That makes you wrong.

I would agree you shouldn't back down, if you know the facts.

Not backing down when you don't know the facts though, could get you in trouble one day.

Especially when you kids like to play with guns so much down there.

TT


----------



## Donutz (May 12, 2010)

Fuck, I was just away for a couple of hours! That's it, no more sugar for _any_ of you. Damned kids....


----------



## slyder (Jan 18, 2010)

good call on your part, if the need arises I will try this trick. For the mean time I just keep my stuff in good working order.


----------



## pdxrealtor (Jan 23, 2012)

Argo said:


> I would just get pissed off, destroy the whole fucking board and buy a new board and new base plates after I ripped my bindings off. perfect excuse for a new board.


This is exactly what I'd do..... :laugh: 



aubzobot said:


> Okay. Im gonna skip over the all the bickering here. The guys at the Source weren't dumb enought to use red loctite, just the blue stuff. I just heated up the screwdriver with the torch, put it in the head for a little then turned. Screws came out. Thanks for all the advice and now ive got bindings on my new board.


I'm glad you got them out. :thumbsup:

Sounds like everyone is ready for the snow.... and a couple of you are ready for daycare, or need some pussy. Good Lord


----------



## Donutz (May 12, 2010)

pdxrealtor said:


> and a couple of you are ready for daycare, or need some pussy. Good Lord


Here ya go:



snowklinger said:


>


----------



## henry06x (Feb 16, 2011)

ShredLife said:


> if they used red loctite you need to heat it to something like 400 or maybe 600 degrees to get it to let go...
> 
> obviously you can't take a blowtorch to a snowboard but you might be able to torch a screwdriver seated in the screw and get enough of the heat to transfer... or get a soldering gun and use that to heat it, one screw at a time..


but if the screw gets heated its just going to swell in the threads and end up tighter IMO.


----------



## Donutz (May 12, 2010)

henry06x said:


> but if the screw gets heated its just going to swell in the threads and end up tighter IMO.


I think the question in this case is whether the bolt will expand significantly _before_ or _after_ the heat would have loosened the loctite. Actual experience seems to indicate the latter in this case.


----------



## henry06x (Feb 16, 2011)

Snowolf said:


> You are essentially correct but that is just a part of the whole equation. It's an old machinist's trick. You heat a bolt and yes it expands faster than the surrounding metal so yes, initially it gets tighter. The bolt also cools faster; especially if you actively cool in with cutting oil or even water. Now it contracts faster than surrounding metal and momentarily becomes looser than it was.
> 
> That's for metal to metal contact but in the case of a bolt or screw that has any adhesive materil whether it's red or blue loctite, permatex, glue, whatever, heat makes these materials more pliable and at relatively low heat too.
> 
> In this guy's case, his waxing iron would be hot enough provided he could get it inside the binding to hold to the screw head.


I have done the hole heating before to loosen a bolt but have always done it by heating the outside area instead of the bolt. I have done it on bolts with and without loctite. Heating the bolt then trying to cool it faster does make sense when I think about it. I just never have done it that way or had to.


----------



## geolemon (Oct 6, 2012)

Snowolf said:


> Not a moderator pal, Im an Admin. I handle technical aspects of the forum. The mods are the E police here. I am just a tech guy so get off your lecturing high horse about "my repsonsibilities as a moderator" your`e barking up the wrong tree......
> ...
> My question about "so you have worked in a shop?" was a legitimate question. I cant help it if you took THAT personally and found it offensive. You need a little thicker hide I suspect if you took offense to that.


Gotcha, gotcha.

Lecturing high horse is way, way more accurate than taking offense. It's a whole new world today... I don't take offense. My 17 year old nephew said to me a couple years back when I tried to get him into skateboarding "I'm not one of those skateboard jocks". What a 180. Bizzarro world. My world is the punk rock one I grew up in, when you couldn't ride snowboards at resorts, when you had to run from the cops or get your skateboards confiscated. 
And the guys I stood up for were the ones getting bullied by others. We rallied together to a common cause. It's a good feeling.

I see that happening on forums like these all the time. Elitists who have cred by virtue of being keyboard commandos. So I legitimately apologize if I pegged you as one of those - when someone comes at someone with the implication of "I'm better than you", that rubs me the wrong way. I'm more than glad to turn a scenario around so that the person trying to make someone else look like a fool -looks like a fool. Some people legitimately need to be put in their place to get their feet back on the ground and head out of the clouds. Especially forums where people looking for advice (who are inherently vulnerable) are trying to find answers. Advice is valuable.

So again - I apologize for coming off aggressive. I thought I had reason to... and then was a little doubly taken aback when I saw "admin" and thought "moderator". Lecturing high horse - guilty as charged.


----------



## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)




----------



## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

[/QUOTE]DILLIGAF?[/QUOTE]

Ahh.. Yes, very much so.

Have you ever thought about writing fiction novels? You think I'm joking, but don't overlook it.

Our story begins here...
Slyder posted the Dremel slot tip, couple posts later I agreed with his suggestion, coincidentally I had just done this exact thing about a week before.

(cue dramatic music) Then it was actually the big bad Snowolf who came "rampaging into a thread like a bull declaring all other positions as wrong"
Declaring Sir shredsalot to be the chosen one. "That is the law" he stated.

Someone disagreed with your method of taking a blow torch to your board. (lol, I'm sure steam just came out your ears)

I took that opportunity for some Tomfoolery 
So I figured I'd tease ya a bit, I know how much you love that

WTF? is right!!! How do you get this...

[/QUOTE]Then, when I DARE to not back down and just say, " You're right[/QUOTE]

From this...
So it looks like shedhead, doesn't have the best solution.

Never said MY way was right, just that your way might not be the best way.

Even that slight bit of teasing pushed you over the edge.

This is so hypocritical, it's hard to believe it's actually from this thread. 
[/QUOTE]If you cannot engage people in a civil respectful manner, your time here will be very short lived.....[/QUOTE]

You then go on calling people pricks & weeping cunts & whiny cunts & more cunts.

I said Sir shredsalot had a vagina & that I believed he had gotten sand in it.
Being a caring person, I suggested cleaning it out might relieve some of the irritation, because they are not self cleaning ovens you know..

This next statement is so out of wack, it's like you were reading a different book.
I like how you throw the fictional "quote" in there, it makes the story way more believable. 

I am totally cool with someone disagreeing and saying they think their method is better. But don't come rampaging into a thread like a bull declaring all other positions as wrong and then telling someone that "no shop would ever do that" 



Have you ever heard the term "Respect is earned not given" 

Get off your high horse. Treat people with the respect you demand.

[/QUOTE]If you cannot engage people in a civil respectful manner, your time here will be very short lived.....[/QUOTE]

You have been the most disrespectful person in this thread, I don't see anybody calling other people cunts but you.

Everyone thinks you're awesome but you're starting to think you're a bit to awesome. 

TT

I still think you're awesome, bit of a spaz, but still pretty awesome.


----------



## DrGreeNThumB420 (Aug 19, 2007)

all this arguing :laugh:
either wrong size screwdriver or hes a pussy


----------



## Cr0_Reps_Smit (Jun 27, 2009)

timmytard said:


> blah blah blah


Can you please quote for me where he said "YOU ARE ALL WRONG, YOU SHALT NOT DEFY ME" cause honestly I never read that. Did he say he thought shred had the best method? Yea. He may have even said it was MORE LIKELY that the head of the screw would snap off if the screw is lodged in there tight enough from loctite(since the title of the thread is about bindings being glued in)but I didn't read anywhere him saying any other way was futile and pointless as it seems to be your main point.


----------



## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

\{[quote\]} fail


----------



## Donutz (May 12, 2010)

Girls, girls! You're all pretty! Now can we get back to snowboarding? Or at least discussing beer?


----------



## pdxrealtor (Jan 23, 2012)

Wow............


----------



## ETM (Aug 11, 2009)

Awesome thread guys!
I seriously just laughed my ass off at the name calling and one liners weaved within its posts. An arguement on the interwebz hurts nobody and brings joy to people all around the world. 
There should be an awards night once a year where we hand out trophies to all the dicks, fuckwits and bitches who make up this forum! I would love to go and get blind fucking drunk and make an ass of myself.


----------



## Deviant (Dec 22, 2009)

Donutz said:


> Girls, girls! You're all pretty! Now can we get back to snowboarding? Or at least discussing beer?


Seems to happen more around this time of year, snowboarding withdrawal or something 

..but personally, I'm always up for discussing beer.


----------



## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

ETM said:


> Awesome thread guys!
> I seriously just laughed my ass off at the name calling and one liners weaved within its posts. An arguement on the interwebz hurts nobody and brings joy to people all around the world.
> There should be an awards night once a year where we hand out trophies to all the dicks, fuckwits and bitches who make up this forum! I would love to go and get blind fucking drunk and make an ass of myself.


I agree, it's all just entertainment.

If somehow we could pull off an awards night it would be spectacular.

What would the categories be? Someone should make a list & we'll start nominating!

Oh, the fun continues...

TT


----------



## ETM (Aug 11, 2009)

Biggest never summer fanboi could definately be a category.
Angriest snowboarder lol.
Best LED prototype.
Craigslist king.
Blunted nose gets a trophy without question, for so many reasons!


I could go on!


----------



## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

ETM said:


> Biggest never summer fanboi could definately be a category.
> Angriest snowboarder lol.
> Best LED prototype.
> Craigslist king.
> ...


Please do...:thumbsup:

I think it's a deadly idea, with the potential to be a big hit.

That thread would never die & keep people amused for hours.:laugh:

:cheeky4:Bring on the trolls!!:cheeky4:

TT


----------



## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

Snowolf said:


> That`s because you're an old cunt ya bloody wanker.....:cheeky4:


And the first award goes to.... SNOWOLF!!!

And the second award goes to... wait? SNOWOLF!!! lol 

:cheeky4:


----------



## racer357 (Feb 3, 2011)

I have an award for you, how about the award for 

The guy who's ass you want to kick after every post he types, but would snowboard and drink beer with any day award?


----------



## hktrdr (Apr 3, 2012)

racer357 said:


> I have an award for you, how about the award for
> 
> The guy who's ass you want to kick after every post he types, but would snowboard and drink beer with any day award?


Too many nominees in that category - lots of shit gets posted on this forum (in addition to the truly helpful/entertaining/informative stuff), but I would not discriminate against anybody on that basis. They board, so chances are they are good people...


----------



## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

racer357 said:


> I have an award for you, how about the award for
> 
> The guy who's ass you want to kick after every post he types, but would snowboard and drink beer with any day award?


I would graciously accept that.

With tears in my eyes, I would thank all of you for your support.:cheeky4:

TT


----------



## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

hktrdr said:


> Too many nominees in that category - lots of shit gets posted on this forum (in addition to the truly helpful/entertaining/informative stuff), but I would not discriminate against anybody on that basis. They board, so chances are they are good people...


Ya, that be a tough category for sure.:laugh:

Probably have to break that up regionally, far too many deserving people.

TT


----------



## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

I'm gonna give that dude who asked for a mogul board in the other thread, the SBF Skier award.

It's gonna be a very special moment for any/everyone involved.


----------



## Donutz (May 12, 2010)

I think deviant's right. Everyone's a little punchy.


----------



## HiImBrian (Oct 11, 2012)

hvalley76 said:


> View attachment 8515
> 
> Get one of these. Invaluable if you ever work on a motorcycle engine too.
> $5.99 for a cheap one @ harbor freight but it will work for what you're doing


This! Probably the best <$10 tool I've ever bought. Saved my butt more times than I can count. If this can't get em out I'd be very surprised.


----------

