# K2 Formula Forward Lean / Highback Rotation ?'s



## Deacon (Mar 2, 2013)

TheBigChill said:


> Ok guys. I've literally been cursing the past two hours as I try to adjust both forward lean and highback rotation on my 2016 K2 Formula.
> 
> These assholes at K2 "integrated" the forward lean and highback rotation into one adjustment point, and it works for shit. I'm a mechanical engineer and I literally can't figure out how the fuck this is supposed to work. Once I set forward lean to 5 degrees, I then try to rotate the highback, and after rotation I end up with 10 degrees of forward lean. The only solution is to set one pivot point of the highback to 5 degrees and the other pivot point to 0 degrees, and then maybe I get 5 degrees on the highback, after rotation.
> 
> This won't make sense unless you have K2 bindings, but has anyone successfully adjusted both of these aspects on a K2 binding with the "Airlock" highback?


I'm sure @Nivek has. I had the company's, which had the lean and rotation tied together too, but i'm not sure if it was the same way. I set my lean at the minimum anyways, since I'm not a pipe rider, so it really wasn't a problem for me. Are you trying to get a bunch of forward lean? or a bunch of rotation?


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## Sublimaze (Jan 30, 2014)

I have 2013 Formulas. You mentioned that you tried to set forward lean first. I would rotate them first, then set your forward lean. Even though the one nut does both, it's not one adjustment point. After you flip the lever up, aren't there three holes? You have to unscrew them completely from the frame on both sides, rotate the highback, then screw them back into the different holes. Then to adjust the forward lean, you loosen the nut just enough to set the same degree on both sides. With my model year, the highbacks are pretty much parallel to the heel edge in the stock position even at my stance angles of +15/-12. When I first got them, I also tried to rotate the highbacks but they didn't look that much different anyway. They also folded down into the footbed at a weird angle. Save yourself some headaches, keep them stock and just monkey with forward lean.


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## TheBigChill (Aug 29, 2013)

Sublimaze said:


> I have 2013 Formulas. You mentioned that you tried to set forward lean first. I would rotate them first, then set your forward lean. Even though the one nut does both, it's not one adjustment point. After you flip the lever up, aren't there three holes? You have to unscrew them completely from the frame on both sides, rotate the highback, then screw them back into the different holes. Then to adjust the forward lean, you loosen the nut just enough to set the same degree on both sides. With my model year, the highbacks are pretty much parallel to the heel edge in the stock position even at my stance angles of +15/-12. When I first got them, I also tried to rotate the highbacks but they didn't look that much different anyway. They also folded down into the footbed at a weird angle. Save yourself some headaches, keep them stock and just monkey with forward lean.


My stance angles are almost exactly the same at 15 & -10

I was asking less about how to do it, and more about has someone done it successfully, and using K2's supplied instructions. Maybe my post wasn't clear, no worries.

I'm aware that highback rotation requires removing the quick release screw, and use of one of the three holes on each side of the heel cup. Generally speaking, you'd have at least a stagger of one hole when each side is compared. I'm aware that forward lean will be set after highback rotation occurs.

The issue is this: Once I rotate the highback, I then set forward lean to 5 degrees on both sides of the heel cup. BUT, with 5 degrees selected on both sides, I end up with 10 degrees of lean on the highback indicator. The only way to remedy this is to stagger my lean angles in the heel cup, which is not how it's supposed to be.

I realize that most people don't care, nor do they adjust these two things, but what a shitty way to save 1 ounce from a binding... They could've just kept a tool-less adjuster on the highback, and used slots for highback rotation.


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## Sublimaze (Jan 30, 2014)

TheBigChill said:


> Generally speaking, you'd have at least a stagger of one hole when each side is compared...The issue is this: Once I rotate the highback, I then set forward lean to 5 degrees on both sides of the heel cup. BUT, with 5 degrees selected on both sides, I end up with 10 degrees of lean on the highback indicator. The only way to remedy this is to stagger my lean angles in the heel cup, which is not how it's supposed to be.



I assumed you tried staggering two holes on each side. For example first hole on one side, third hole on other side. That's how mine are set and the forward lean selection and highback indicator match. I don't think staggering one hole works.


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## TheBigChill (Aug 29, 2013)

Sublimaze said:


> I assumed you tried staggering two holes on each side. For example first hole on one side, third hole on other side. That's how mine are set and the forward lean selection and highback indicator match. I don't think staggering one hole works.


I now have it staggered by two holes, and in order to get 5 degrees at the actual highback indicator, inside the heel cup one side is set at 5, and the other at 10. 

If I set both sides to 5, it looks like I get 5 at the highback indicator, but the second I push back on the highback with any force, it drops back down to 0 degrees on the highback indicator. This wouldn't work for riding, as it would give me a tad of forward lean until the moment I drive into the highback.


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## mAK10 (Jan 24, 2017)

did you get any further on this....have just got these bindings and having the exact same issue.....(funnily enough I'm also a mech engineer and spent all of last night driving myself crazy!!)

Have just set it up so its 5 on one and 10 on the other and 5 on the heel cup........figured it shouldn't really matter


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## TheBigChill (Aug 29, 2013)

mAK10 said:


> did you get any further on this....have just got these bindings and having the exact same issue.....(funnily enough I'm also a mech engineer and spent all of last night driving myself crazy!!)
> 
> Have just set it up so its 5 on one and 10 on the other and 5 on the heel cup........figured it shouldn't really matter


Isn't it infuriating? 

I stopped worrying about if the numbers matched, and started focusing on 1) If the Highbacks are aligned reasonably parallel to the edge, and 2) Getting the right amount of stable forward lean.

In other words, "screw K2's intentions, and make it work however you need to". :grin:


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## BurtonAvenger (Aug 14, 2007)

You are over analyzing it. Opened this thread, read your response, fully rotated and adjusted my brand new Formulas in under 2 minutes. Left the outside screw tight on the left side, popped the inside one completely off. Put it from the first hole into the second one, put the forward lean indicator to 5, tightened down. Bam Highback is fully rotated to be parallel with my edge and has 5 degrees of lean. Took the tightened left side one, slide adjustment to 5, tightened it right down. Seriously did this with a brand new set of Formulas that are still in the box in under 2 minutes. It's you, not the equipment.


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## TheBigChill (Aug 29, 2013)

It's magic. I'm the first to admit that I'm over-analytical, but this genuinely didn't work for me. Riding for 22 years, Engineering for 10+. No beuno. 

Do BOTH of the pivot points inside your heelcup have the indicator pointing at 5 degrees, AND the forward lean stop on the back of the highback indicate 5 degrees? I'm telling you without a doubt, this was impossible for me to obtain. I'm happy with how it's set now (works fine), but to get 5 degrees at the the forward lean block and proper rotation, I have to set one heel cup pivot to 10 and the other to 5.


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## Deacon (Mar 2, 2013)

TheBigChill said:


> Engineering for 10+.


Found your problem...


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## TheBigChill (Aug 29, 2013)

Deacon said:


> Found your problem...



Let me guess: You're a "hands on, get it done kinda guy" and Engineers are too far separated from real work to actually know how things work. Was I close?


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## Deacon (Mar 2, 2013)

TheBigChill said:


> Let me guess: You're a "hands on, get it done kinda guy" and Engineers are too far separated from real work to actually know how things work. Was I close?


Naw. I was just giving you shit. >

I worked 20 years in commercial construction, but I also read instruction manuals before putting things together. :hairy:


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## mAK10 (Jan 24, 2017)

I've just set mine so the high back sits in the desired angle on the hell cup and then made them parallel to the edge of my board and whatever angle they want to sit on the side adjuster so be it if they don't match (they don't)


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## scotty100 (Apr 3, 2012)

Deacon said:


> TheBigChill said:
> 
> 
> > Let me guess: You're a "hands on, get it done kinda guy" and Engineers are too far separated from real work to actually know how things work. Was I close?
> ...


You ever used K2s? Good bindings but he has a point...


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## Goatie (Jan 7, 2018)

I've just adjusted my bindings for the first time since I bought them 5 years ago. I probably did things in a stupid order but here's what I did and how I managed it.

My bindings were sitting at +15/-15. First I rotated the highbacks to be parallel to the board by making sure there were 2 screws difference between where the highbacks were screwed in. i.e. if the outside screw was in the first hole O o o then the inside screw would be at o o O. Eventually I was left with 2 parallel highbacks.

Then I decided I wanted to change the angle of my bindings to something new. So I adjusted them to +21/+6. I didn't have to change the highback on my front binding as it was still more or less parallel. The rear highback however was now no longer parallel but already adjusted as far in the correct position as possible. Anyone got any ideas on this?

Afterwards I thought, screw it, lets add some lean, so I undid the screws, moved the metal socket to +5 deg and then attempted to screw it back in again at the same holes as they were in previously. This proved to be very difficult to achieve on the front binding where the highback was parallel. Every time I thought I was screwing it in at +5, the indicator on the screw would say 0. After a lot of trial and error I finally managed to make it fit, but it was really difficult to screw it in with just my hand and now my thumbs are really sore.

Has anyone else had this experience? I'm particularly curious on how to get the rear highback to be parallel to the board edge with a +6 degree angle.


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## kosmoz (Dec 27, 2013)

had 2013 formulas, now 2017, the trick is simple as fcuk, you take out both pins/screws, on which highback is holding, rotate and lean forward highhback as you like, hold it, tight in preffered position and put srews/pins in holes, tighten them up. You always can ask your non engineer wife/kid to do the holding tight part while you put in the screws.


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