# mounting flow NXT-FSE



## narxolinjo (Mar 10, 2009)

Hi guys,

got a pair of 2011 Flow NXT-FSE bindings and I got only screws with them and no washers. It doesn't seem right to mount them without washers with the mounting disc being made from aluminum. There is also a picture of the screws with washers in the instruction sheet. Washers from my old bindings don't fit in the grooves around the holes on the disc. Any thoughts?
Thanks


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## Leo (Nov 24, 2009)

I have the 2010 models and they definitely came with washers. However, when I was demoing the 2011 models, the rep gave me a set of screws with built in washers. Sorry if I'm offending you, but the simplest answer is often the most accurate.

If that is not the case, just give Flow a call and they'll happily send you the washers or screws with washers built in. In fact, you should do that anyway so you have a spare set!


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## narxolinjo (Mar 10, 2009)

Thanks for the reply. 
Tomorrow I'll call the shop where I bought them and ask about the proper screws.


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## jgsqueak (Mar 9, 2010)

I just got some replacement disc in from Flow the other day...no washers, just screws. I think someone at the factory is sleeping on the job. From what I can tell, there are supposed to be washers (screws are too long otherwise).


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## Leo (Nov 24, 2009)

Out of curiosity, what do your screws look like guys?

Is the screw head wider than normal? Posting a pic would be even better. Then I can tell you for sure if they are the kinds that need washers or not.


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## narxolinjo (Mar 10, 2009)

Leo said:


> Out of curiosity, what do your screws look like guys?
> 
> Is the screw head wider than normal? Posting a pic would be even better. Then I can tell you for sure if they are the kinds that need washers or not.


Nope, head is not wider than normal on screws I got. I am sure they are just like normal screws used for mounting bindings, they're 12mm long. I can take a photo if you like.

What also confuses me is this video:

Special Edition Bindings: by Flow Snowboarding

Somewhere in the middle of the video is shown how to mount the bindings on the board and there were also no washers used.


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## dasob85 (Dec 28, 2010)

i have atse's. i dont have any washers either.
edit, i have the 2011 version.


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## slyder (Jan 18, 2010)

I have 10 NXT's ATSE
Here are the screws for mine:










If you call Flow ask for Thunder in waranty department, he'll hook you up.


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## narxolinjo (Mar 10, 2009)

Ya, I guess that's the type of screws I should've gotten with my FSE's. Thanks for posting the pic.
I tightened the bindings on the board few times while setting them up the other day and I can already see marks on the disk made by a screw head cutting into aluminum so those are definitly ment to be used with washers.


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## slyder (Jan 18, 2010)

I have some washer ones with a set of 5150 bindings. Problem is the washer area is much larger and won't fit my flows


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## Leo (Nov 24, 2009)

slyder said:


> I have 10 NXT's ATSE
> Here are the screws for mine:
> 
> 
> ...


This is the screw I'm talking about. Definitely ask Flow for these. Less hassle since the washer is already built in.


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## dasob85 (Dec 28, 2010)

i called flow today for the screws with washers in it. they agreed to send it to me.


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## narxolinjo (Mar 10, 2009)

I was not that lucky, went to the shop where I bought my bindings today and ended up paying little less than $20 for the screws , what a ripoff. 
Being in Croatia would take too long to receive them from Flow, don't know if they are willing to ship them over here anyway. 
They still leave marks on aluminum mounting disc after tightening but it's much better now than it was with the standard screws I got with the bindings.


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## dasob85 (Dec 28, 2010)

Ouch, dude that sucks. think of it this way, at least you won't have to buy replacement plates.


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## Leo (Nov 24, 2009)

Wow, the shop charged you $20 for washers? Not cool.

I would rather go to a home improvement store to get them in that case. What are they? Like a few cents a piece?


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## dasob85 (Dec 28, 2010)

that would work too. but if it was me, i'd need screws as well, because mine weren't that long...

now i have a suspicion there are other things wrong with my bindings lol.


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## narxolinjo (Mar 10, 2009)

I doubt I could've found them in home improvement store as those are not standard washers. 
I needed exactly those screws like on slyder's picture. 

Even the standard screws and a washers like the ones from my old bindings woudn't have worked because with that combo screws sit higher on the disc and in that case it wouldn't be possible to fit the plastic cover.

Since I got the bindings almost 50% off retail price it's not a bad deal after all 

edit: yeah dasob, screws I got with my FSE's are also to short when used with a washer, they are 12mm long and those with built in washer I got today are 15mm.


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## dasob85 (Dec 28, 2010)

haha great, so its not just me. can't wait to get the new screws in the mail.

btw, this is a silly question, but how do you guys skate heelside?


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## slyder (Jan 18, 2010)

Dont' forget to add a drop of BLUE loc tite


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## Leo (Nov 24, 2009)

slyder said:


> Dont' forget to add a drop of BLUE loc tite


I don't recommend doing does nor does the manufacturer either. Flow has a warning in their instructions that tell you not to.

I used lock tite once (just a drop) and I had a really tough time getting the screws out. I ended stripping some screws. Thankfully they came out, but were stripped so badly afterward that I picked up new ones.

Binding screws already come pre-treated with something like loc-tite. That is all you need. Take a tool with you on the mountain and give your bindings a check here and there. Not hard to do and is really easy to re-tighten if needed. It is highly unlikely that all of your screws will loosen at the same time so a quick check every now and then is sufficient.


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## narxolinjo (Mar 10, 2009)

I don't know what kind of screw retaining compound you used, some of them are very strong and make sure not to use those. Some of the strongest even require heating of the screws/nuts before untightening.
Loctite 222 or 243 should work. I've been using 243 very often on non snowboarding related parts and I've never had a problem with stripping the screw heads.

Compund which comes on the binding screws from the factory wears out after a while, at least on the screws I had.

I agree that rechecking the screws on the mountain is also a good idea.


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## Leo (Nov 24, 2009)

I don't know all the details. I just know that I used blue loc-tite. Actually, maybe it was the red one. Is that stronger?

Either way, I have never felt the need to use loc-tite ever since then. I only did it because my friend suggested it. Just be careful because if the manufacturer warns you not to use something, normally that means they won't honor a warranty if something happens.

About the factory loc-tite running out, this is why I always call them up for spare sets of screws.


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## narxolinjo (Mar 10, 2009)

I really don't know, I know that loctite 243 is blue (color of the liquid, not the bottle) and that's the one I use.
I've never used it on the binding screws though. 
Never had a problem with screws coming loose on my old bindings when I tightened them with enough torque even after the factory loctite was gone. Those little ratchet screwdriver like Danike come very handy to apply enough torque on the screws.

I avoid riding with tools or any hard objects I could fall onto in my pockets, I rather load them with sandwiches and snacks


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## Leo (Nov 24, 2009)

Well, you shouldn't ride with a tool with any of the sharp parts sticking out for sure. I ride with snowboard specific tools because you can take out the screw heads and store them in the actual tool. Plus I put it in my pant cargo pocket. Hard for snowboarders to fall on the thigh area since the board is in the way


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## danm (Jan 16, 2010)

dasob85 said:


> haha great, so its not just me. can't wait to get the new screws in the mail.
> 
> btw, this is a silly question, but how do you guys skate heelside?


Just kick the highback up with your back foot, it should stay up. Be careful of low riding lift chairs though, you could snap your binding or worse... I usually kick mine back down right before I load


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## Leo (Nov 24, 2009)

I kick my highback up too when I want to skate heelside. Other than that, I skate toeside


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## john doe (Nov 6, 2009)

Leo said:


> I don't know all the details. I just know that I used blue loc-tite. Actually, maybe it was the red one. Is that stronger?


Red loc-tite is a lot stronger then Blue. Blue is specificly for stuff that you will be removing. Red is for stuff that you never want to come loose. I used Blue on all my actions sports gear and never had any trouble with it. All loc-tites should be kept away from plastics since it can dissolve them. Flows advice about loctite probably comes from when they use plastic disks.


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## dasob85 (Dec 28, 2010)

awesome. i'll forgo the blue loctite then. i do have a handy little dakine tool and i'll probably be adjusting a bit 

then, another quick question, when you are on the lift, do you put your free foot into the bindings?


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## Leo (Nov 24, 2009)

dasob85 said:


> awesome. i'll forgo the blue loctite then. i do have a handy little dakine tool and i'll probably be adjusting a bit
> 
> then, another quick question, when you are on the lift, do you put your free foot into the bindings?


If no one is setting directly next to me, I always do lol. Very comfy. I also get off the lift this way in those instances and strap in while I'm still sliding.


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## dasob85 (Dec 28, 2010)

ah cool  got one more quick question about mounting bindings b4 my new screws come in. My feet are centered on the board but my mounting disc is not. I pulled out the heel ramp all the way and did not move the toe ramp. will this affect the board flexing while turning one way or the other?


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## Leo (Nov 24, 2009)

dasob85 said:


> ah cool  got one more quick question about mounting bindings b4 my new screws come in. My feet are centered on the board but my mounting disc is not. I pulled out the heel ramp all the way and did not move the toe ramp. will this affect the board flexing while turning one way or the other?


Hmm... there are so many ways you can place the mounting disc. I'm sure there is a way to center it. The purpose of the heel and toe ramps are to accommodate your boots. Since each boot is different, the adjustable ramps allow for the best fit. You want to make sure the ramps are slightly past the contact points of your toe and heel of the boots.


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## dasob85 (Dec 28, 2010)

Ah, i think the boot is centered pretty well. got a little under 1 inch overhang on each side. my point was, i didn't want to adjust the highback wire and move it forward so instead i pulled the heel ramp all the way out and thats how i centered my foot on the board. the disc itself is more skewed towards the toe edge though. :dunno:


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## Leo (Nov 24, 2009)

dasob85 said:


> Ah, i think the boot is centered pretty well. got a little under 1 inch overhang on each side. my point was, i didn't want to adjust the highback wire and move it forward so instead i pulled the heel ramp all the way out and thats how i centered my foot on the board. the disc itself is more skewed towards the toe edge though. :dunno:


You should be able to move the disc back a little more. Are you on a Burton board with the 3 hole pattern? I'd understand if that is the case.

Sounds like you might need to do some heel adjustments on the binding. Like moving the highbacks further back.


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## dasob85 (Dec 28, 2010)

Nope, got a normal 4 hole board. Alright, i just didn't want to adjust it and screw something up, but i guess its pretty important and i should then.


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## narxolinjo (Mar 10, 2009)

I think it's the best to center the bindings/mounting disc on the board, that way the bord will be able to flex equaly in toe side and heel side turns and that should be the point. 
Then adjust the bindings so your boot is centered on the bord (equal heel and toe overhang) and then adjust the toe and heel ramps.

That's how I set up mine, I am rocking burton size 12 boot in large size bindings, my highback is moved farthest to the back, works great.


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## dasob85 (Dec 28, 2010)

narxolinjo said:


> I think it's the best to center the bindings/mounting disc on the board, that way the bord will be able to flex equaly in toe side and heel side turns and that should be the point.


that was what i was trying to ask. thanks for clearing it up. :laugh:
definitely gonna break out the screwdriver tonight then 

edit, sorry for stealing your thread!


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## borracho (Jan 15, 2011)

So I just got my flows in and started to try and mount them last night and ran into problems right off the bat...either mechanics are > me, or the screws they sent with the bindings are too short...couldnt even get it to _start_threading. Any one else have this issue????


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## phile00 (Jan 7, 2009)

Wow, I just got regular screws and didn't even question it. Pic included.


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## amothugness (Jan 13, 2011)

borracho said:


> So I just got my flows in and started to try and mount them last night and ran into problems right off the bat...either mechanics are > me, or the screws they sent with the bindings are too short...couldnt even get it to _start_threading. Any one else have this issue????


I had the same problem at first but u just really have to get in there. Once the first 2 grip a bit. The others will grab easy.


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## Leo (Nov 24, 2009)

amothugness said:


> I had the same problem at first but u just really have to get in there. Once the first 2 grip a bit. The others will grab easy.


This...

My Romes were the same way too as well as my Flows. It's because of the padding under the Romes and probably because of the rocker baseplate on the FLows.


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## GorgeDad (Jan 24, 2011)

I can confirm comments above. I just got new NXT-FSEs and they came with the short screws (with no washer and fyi, *with* a touch of blue loc-tite from Flow). Because of the padding under the baseplate, it may seem like the screws don't reach but you'll find that even after barely seeming to thread, you'll be able to tighten a couple revolutions with the padding compressing as you go.


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## dasob85 (Dec 28, 2010)

When I called asking for screws with washers, the guy I spoke to seemed to project an impression that all screws should have washers attached and that he almost didn't believe I had screws without washers. but he did send them to me anyway  although i notice in that pic, there were no washers as well.


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## narxolinjo (Mar 10, 2009)

Hi guys, regarding Flow customer service, I sent few emails in the past couple of weeks to both their info and warranty email addresses but haven't gotten any reply. I asked for spare hardware to have it just in case and even offered to pay for it.


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## Prime320 (Jan 26, 2011)

narxolinjo said:


> Hi guys, regarding Flow customer service, I sent few emails in the past couple of weeks to both their info and warranty email addresses but haven't gotten any reply. I asked for spare hardware to have it just in case and even offered to pay for it.


Almost the entire staff went to the trade show. They are really backed up on email because of it. Just give them a call, if you can get to a person aside from the receptionist they are extremely helpful.


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## dasob85 (Dec 28, 2010)

I just called. was done in 5 minutes, just gave him my address and that was it.


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## borracho (Jan 15, 2011)

I was just being a bitch...screws threaded in finally. FWIW they had no washers attached but worked out fine


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