# Facing straight down (flat) on the fall line



## ChubbyGuy (Mar 5, 2009)

I assume that you are talking about the transition between heelside to toeside or vice versa, in which case the board would have to be flat. The basics for example if you want to transition from going heelside to toeside is that it goes heelside to flat, then flat to toeside. This makes the transition seamless, as opposed to something like being on a slight heel edge then trying to force it toeside, which could make you catch snow. Experienced riders a lot of times do the flat part very briefly, only needing enough time to go on the other edge because yeah, riding flat based for a long time can make you catch an edge (esp if you are a beginner), so you only need to do it long enough for you to transition over to the other edge.


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## mikez (May 12, 2009)

I don't think the board needs to be flat at all, or if is it (on very big turns) it will be brief.

There are different ways of learning (and teaching) how to turn, but the most helpful, in my experience, is foot steering ie turning the board using your front foot.

Example: Start by riding across the hill on your heel edge; with both feet your toes are up and heels are down (obviously--you're riding on your heel edge). Foot steering means you start the turn by twisting the board along its length by pushing the toe of your front foot down into the turn (and keeping the back foot where it is - toe up/heel down - until it eventually, naturally, follows the front foot).

If you use this method (which most people do, even if they don't realise it), the board will be slightly twisted throughout the turn, including when you move through the fall line. It will not be flat. This adds a layer of control to turning IMO.


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## FLuiD (Jul 6, 2009)

What he said ^

Have any of you guys ever seen that old ass B movie called "Boarding Cool" by Nitro? It's an older instructional video that would be great for n00b's and also is GREAT entertainment to the enlightened!


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## baldylox (Dec 27, 2007)

Snowolf said:


> The board does not have to be pointed down the hill flat based to safely change edges in a turn, but this is usually they way a newer rider starts linking their turns. As you progress keep in mind that the snowboard does not care if it is pointed up the hill, across the hill or down the hill. The only thing that matters when making an edge change is that the board is traveling straight tip to tail with no side slip occurring. In dynamic carving, the rider transitions right onto the down hill edge as the board crosses the fall line.


In order to not be repetitive, I'll just expand on this. The way I used to think about it was that the faster your are moving, the greater leeway you have to "cheat" and change edges when the board is moving across the hill.


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## Guest (Dec 7, 2009)

CkcJsm said:


> Before starting a turn you need to be flat and facing straight down the hill. Do we need to maintain a slight edge when we do that? Because I heard if you don't you could catch an edge, fall over, and break every bone in your body D :. Problem is, when I try maintain a slight edge on my toeside or heelside I begin to turn or tend to go into an undesired direction, instead of going straight down the fall line. May anyone give me tips on how to maintain a slight edge w/o going where you dont want to go?


there's a lot of great advice here so i don't have too much to add. i will say that your edge change need not necessarily happen when your board is parallel to the fall line (i.e. the nose of your board is pointed straight down the fal line). the edge change can occur at virtually any point in the turn.

when i am on a freshly groomed run, doing large radius carved turns, i'll change edges when my board is perpendicular to the fall line. i know that seems counterintuitive but i rarely catch an edge because my center of mass is also moving perpendicular to the fall line.

if you are beginning to turn when you are only edging slightly, it sounds like your sidecut is enganging more than you would like - you may need to work on edging more subtly so that, from a distance, it may look like you're not edging at all.

as with most things, this will all come together with some practice. if you are having trouble with this, consider taking a lesson. any half-decent snowboarding instructor will, after seeing you ride, be able to easily analyse what you are doing wrong and give you tools to fix it.

alasdair


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## Guest (Dec 8, 2009)

Thanks guys, but I am still confused about something. Do you need to be slightly one an edge when you board is perpendicular to the fall line? Before initiating a turn? Or can you just be flat for a very little amount of time, but I want to be flat for a while to gain speed and relax.

Thanks


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## Guest (Dec 8, 2009)

CkcJsm said:


> Thanks guys, but I am still confused about something. Do you need to be slightly one an edge when you board is perpendicular to the fall line? Before initiating a turn? Or can you just be flat for a very little amount of time, but I want to be flat for a while to gain speed and relax.
> 
> Thanks


assuming you do not leave the surface of the snow, your edge change will always involve some time when your board is flat on the snow. in most cases, that time is going to be measured in tiny fractions of a second.

the only time my board is flat on the snow for any time is if i am approaching a park feature straight on - e.g. riding over a kicker in a straight air or approaching a 'ride-on' box.

alasdair


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## Guest (Dec 9, 2009)

Snowolf said:


> Be patient with the board; too often people get spooked when the nose of the board points down the hill and warp drive is engaged...


agreed. to the op, remember that, ironically enough, the point at which your board is pointed straight down the hill is the point at which you are least likely to catch an edge...

alasdair


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