# Heat Moldable Liners



## Guest (Mar 25, 2009)

m60g said:


> Whats the process for this? I've never owned a pair of boots with this ability before.
> 
> Do I need to take them to a shop to get it done correctly?


Back in the old days everyone just stuck their liners in the oven for a couple of hours, but now most shops have heaters designed specifically for heat molding boots.

Basically, your boots are heated for 20 minutes or so, and then you put them on and tie them up loosely. You'll then stand with your toes elevated for another 20-30 minutes, or until the boots are cooled down. Your toes should be elevated by a couple of inches, pushing your heels into the back of your boot. Once the boots are cool you're good to go.

Be aware that heat molding your boots will significantly reduce the break-in period, at the cost of also reducing the lifespan of the boot. If you're somoeone who puts 80+ days (the time frame most boots are designed for) a season on your boots, then it's not worth heat molding, suck it up and break your boots in the hard way so they'll last longer. If you do fewer than 20 days a season heat molding is a great way to make the boots comfortable fast, and you're still going to get at least three seasons out of them. Between 20 and 80 days you just have to weight which is more important to you, lifespan of the boot, or quicker comfort.


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## DrGreeNThumB420 (Aug 19, 2007)

i just put mine in my car for a hour or so on a hot summer day


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## BurtonAvenger (Aug 14, 2007)

co loco said:


> Back in the old days everyone just stuck their liners in the oven for a couple of hours, but now most shops have heaters designed specifically for heat molding boots.
> 
> Basically, your boots are heated for 20 minutes or so, and then you put them on and tie them up loosely. You'll then stand with your toes elevated for another 20-30 minutes, or until the boots are cooled down. Your toes should be elevated by a couple of inches, pushing your heels into the back of your boot. Once the boots are cool you're good to go.
> 
> Be aware that heat molding your boots will significantly reduce the break-in period, at the cost of also reducing the lifespan of the boot. If you're somoeone who puts 80+ days (the time frame most boots are designed for) a season on your boots, then it's not worth heat molding, suck it up and break your boots in the hard way so they'll last longer. If you do fewer than 20 days a season heat molding is a great way to make the boots comfortable fast, and you're still going to get at least three seasons out of them. Between 20 and 80 days you just have to weight which is more important to you, lifespan of the boot, or quicker comfort.


Where do you get your misinformation? Is it yahoo answers? God seriously?

Ignore what this guy has to say.

Take it to a shop and get it done. They'll explain the whole procedure. I see you're in Craig. Swing into MSO in Silverthorne and have Jen or Scott do it for you. Remember to tip them.

HAHA couple hours in an oven HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH that's a good one.


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## jmacphee9 (Nov 11, 2008)

What BA said mainly, or just let them mold by themselves which i would do. technically if you really do want to do it yourself its like 3-4 minutes at 110f. anymore and you risk ruining it. that one guy is complettttttley wrong. 100%.


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## Guest (Mar 25, 2009)

BurtonAvenger said:


> Where do you get your misinformation? Is it yahoo answers? God seriously?
> 
> Ignore what this guy has to say.
> 
> ...


Did you read my whole post? In the early 90s ovens were how heat molding was done. As I said in my post, now it's done with special heaters in shops.

The guy asked what the process was and I answered. Why don't you describe the process if you think it's so different than what I posted? I also described the pros and cons of heat molding, something people should consider before they mold their boots.

And why would he take his boots to MSO in Silverthorne when he can do it at any of the fine shops in Steamboat?


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## BurtonAvenger (Aug 14, 2007)

Hey buddy Raichle invented heat molding liners in 1993 even then it was 15 minutes in the oven. If its a true intuition liner with no shape to it nothing bad will come of it. 

Everything you described is crap. 

If he's going to go to Steamboat and get it done the only shop worth a damn to trust is Powder tools and the only people there I'd trust to do it are Bernie and Jarvis.


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## Guest (Mar 25, 2009)

okay buddy, let's hear you describe the process of heat molding and the pros and cons then


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## BurtonAvenger (Aug 14, 2007)

Ok if you want to test someone thats done it for 11 years I'm golden.

There's 2 methods to doing it. The convection oven and the heat stacks.

If you're doing the convection oven you turn that sucker on let it get rolling for about 5 minutes before you toss the liners in. Take the liners out of the boots pull the footbed out and line them up in the holders and leave them be between 10 and 15 minutes depending on which Intuition foam they've used. If its ultralon you're better off going for 15 plus minutes, if its the crap that 32 uses 12 minutes is pretty solid. If its a power wrap liner go for 15 minutes exactly.

When the liner has become warm it's going to expand and look like a giant marshmellow. It's coming out of the over at around 180ish degrees give or take depending on if the thermostat is correct or not. Spray the heel of the liner with silicon spray so it'll slide into the boot easier. Once its in there and on the persons foot have them stand flat footed in the boot and grab the liner and pull up to ensure that you're not folding the liner anywhere. Tighten the boot up and have them stand in a neutral position with the ankles and knees bent slightly forward. If you're going for the effect of more toe room a toe cap put over the foot then with the sock pulled over it is desired. You can also elevate the toes slightly to have the heel sink back into the heel pocket. If a custom orthodic has been created and you want the liner to mold with it. Put the footbed on the foot and pull a sock over it. This will push the base of the liner down and create a better mold to the shape of the liner.

Now if you're using a heat stack which is nothing more than an over grown blow dryer there's a few tweaks. If you have a good heat stack you can control the heat on it the Ride/K2 ones have slight tweaks on them, the 32 ones under perform with theirs. Now I've found that with 32 boots if you're drastically down sizing that double cooking them for a total of around 22 to 24 minutes is key and you can get someone with a size 10 foot into a size 9 boot. Instead of removing the liner from the boot leave it in their just remove the footbed so it doesn't melt and toss it on the stack.

The only boots that it's pointless to heat mold are Salomons the foam they use is designed more to break in with 3 to 5 days of riding than 12 minutes on a stack. Burton claims you can do it with theirs but you have to be careful of what model you use as certain ones you'll heat the gel up and harden them. Same goes for DC, especially any DC with the pump on the liner as you'll reheat the glue and it seals the valves to the pump making it inoperable. 

As far as it killing the foam and lessening the life span. If its a true intuition liner it actually should have this done before it ever touches snow and won't effect it. In lower pricepoint boots usually in the 170 and under range you get older generations of foam that break down quick anyways. Case in point pull a liner out of a Salomon Brigade and tell me that heat molding would do anything to that boot. 

A big no no is heat molding boots that someone has been out riding in all day. All you're going to do is heat up their foot funk and spread its foul smell across the shop. 

So there buddy that's how its done now don't you have some asstructing to go do.


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## Guest (Mar 25, 2009)

owned.why does everyone always fight with ba?guessno one readsalll the reviews he has written.


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## Guest (Mar 25, 2009)

Nice, a more wordy version of what I already wrote.
I started heat molding boots at my first shop job at 16, that was in 96. At the time, all heat molding was done in convection ovens, and most people did it in their home ovens. Do a quick google search if you want to read more about heat molding in ovens. I may have been way off on the amount of time, it looks like it was done at low heat for 20-30 minutes, but not on the details. 

And you're wrong about it affecting the boot. If you speed up the break-in process, you shorten the amount of time before the boot packs out. When you've been riding for 18 years, putting more than 100 days on snow every year, you learn that speeding up the break in process isn't worth it in the long run.

You're dead on with the heat molding boots that have already been ridden in though, it's a great way to clear out a shop in a few minutes.

I'll take instructing any day over being a shop monkey, but hey, you can only handle being on the mountain for 2-4 hours a day anyways.


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## BurtonAvenger (Aug 14, 2007)

So when did you first realize you were an idiot instructor? That's the question we want to know. I'll take 2 to 4 hours of hard riding vs picking up snot nosed kids in steamboat. Why don't you go ride a not so flat mountain.


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## Guest (Mar 25, 2009)

BurtonAvenger said:


> So when did you first realize you were an idiot instructor? That's the question we want to know. I'll take 2 to 4 hours of hard riding vs picking up snot nosed kids in steamboat. Why don't you go ride a not so flat mountain.


Hey, lets jump straight to personal insults fuckwit. I grew up in AK, let's go ride some steeps some time, I'll teach you a thing or two.


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## BurtonAvenger (Aug 14, 2007)

Ok I'll bust out the 72 swallow tail and point it.


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## Guest (Mar 25, 2009)

co loco, your figting a loosing battle.ba is the angry snowboarder.look at his blog.you wont win.and ba, why fight with this douche?dont give him the satisfaction.we all know your prety much amazing at boarding.man, im 18 and im breaking up a fight between grown men.


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## m60g (Feb 27, 2009)

Alright everyone, play nice:laugh:

The boots I have are 08 Northwave Decade's

BA you say those two folks you mentioned in Steamboat are good people?


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## Guest (Mar 25, 2009)

m60g said:


> Alright everyone, play nice:laugh:
> 
> The boots I have are 08 Northwave Decade's
> 
> BA you say those two folks you mentioned in Steamboat are good people?


Yeah, he's right about Jake and Bernie at Powder Tools, definitely the best place to take them in Steamboat.


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## BurtonAvenger (Aug 14, 2007)

Northwave boots don't even bother molding them. Its a free floating liner of Italian design. Those will pack out on their own perfectly fine.


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## PaoloSmythe (Aug 19, 2007)

thomas.s.miller said:


> im breaking up a fight between grown men.


you think so?

heat moulding.... i never bother anymore. i just let my hot feet do the necessary. works for me every time. 

why spend time and / or money (not that i have ever been charged or compelled to tip) when just getting on and riding does the trick?

sales gimmick in most instances. which is why BA loves it! (he be in sales duh!)


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## rmc983 (Aug 20, 2016)

*DC Red Liner*

Since it's been a few years, curious if you have any insight on the DC Red Liners and their capability of heat molding?



BurtonAvenger said:


> Ok if you want to test someone thats done it for 11 years I'm golden.
> 
> There's 2 methods to doing it. The convection oven and the heat stacks.
> 
> ...


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