# tuning a board for boxes or rails???



## bakesale (Nov 28, 2008)

you need to detune the edges if you are using the board primarily for jibbing. if you buy a snowboard edge tuning tool set it to 85 degrees


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## LTshredTN (Apr 14, 2009)

bakesale said:


> you need to detune the edges if you are using the board primarily for jibbing. if you buy a snowboard edge tuning tool set it to 85 degrees



thanks, wheres the best place online to get a good edge tool set?


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## LTshredTN (Apr 14, 2009)

only ones ive found online so far dont say there adjustable or 1 just said it was 2 settings of 88 & 90 degrees???


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## LTshredTN (Apr 14, 2009)

also id say ill be using this board for 60% jibs & 40% mtn. so what diff does that make on the edge tuning??


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## Prophecies (Oct 1, 2009)

I'd be careful before detuning your edges. Reason being, once you detune your edges, it's a one-way street from there. There's no going back. So you need to be sure you're going to be doing park, and nothing but park if you bevel your edges to 85. If you say you'll be doing 60% jibs and40% mountain... I'd rethink the edge tuning before going ahead with it. There's a sticky on board maintenance and Tuning here, read that up. It will provide a wealth of useful information for you.


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## LTshredTN (Apr 14, 2009)

Prophecies said:


> I'd be careful before detuning your edges. Reason being, once you detune your edges, it's a one-way street from there. There's no going back. So you need to be sure you're going to be doing park, and nothing but park if you bevel your edges to 85. If you say you'll be doing 60% jibs and40% mountain... I'd rethink the edge tuning before going ahead with it. There's a sticky on board maintenance and Tuning here, read that up. It will provide a wealth of useful information for you.


thanks for the info man, so it might be better to just leave it be u think?


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## Local Boarder (Jan 22, 2008)

LT you will not be able to feel any difference while carving if you have, lets say, a 3 degree bevel (Rome's factory jib bevel for Artifact).

I will never hit rails/boxes again without detuning a new board (except for my new Artifact). Read up on it, some boards are straight up dangerous to jib with right "out the box". (ie. Horrorscope)

I would reccomend the 3 degree even if you only hit 5% rails and 95% all-mountain.


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## crazyluke (Dec 7, 2008)

does anybody know if the 09 k2 WWW has factory beveled edges?


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## Local Boarder (Jan 22, 2008)

crazyluke said:


> does anybody know if the 09 k2 WWW has factory beveled edges?


EDIT: Im sorry I cannot find anything saying that the 2009 had it. 2010 does for sure


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## AWNOW (Sep 12, 2009)

A 3 degree bevel would be appropriate if it is a park dedicated board. If you ride mountain (say, 40%) you are not going to want your edges that far from the snow. I cannot find any concrete info on the factory bevel of your stick. I am guessing if it is a park board it will most likely be at 2 degrees.


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## crazyluke (Dec 7, 2008)

yeah i couldn't either but i would think it does.


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## Local Boarder (Jan 22, 2008)

Don't assume the board has one guys. In fact if it doesn't list it then it doesn't have it. EVERY company in the world would list that as a feature for the board. Anything they have to do more work for would be listed.


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## AWNOW (Sep 12, 2009)

Maybe just give them a call and ask them what degree your edge is at. I highly doubt it is a 0, and probably not at 1 either. Hopefully they can tell you for sure though.


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## LTshredTN (Apr 14, 2009)

thanks for the info guys....so to get a 2 or 3 degree bevel do i just use a file guide on the edges set at that??


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## AWNOW (Sep 12, 2009)

LTshredTN said:


> thanks for the info guys....so to get a 2 or 3 degree bevel do i just use a file guide on the edges set at that??


There are tools that allow you to set a 2 or 3 degree bevel. You must absolutely make sure the board is clamped down securely or you WILL mess up your edges BADLY. I really wouldn't recommend beveling your edges if you have never done any edge work whatsoever yet, it isn't the easiest thing in the world and you can fuck your gear up if you mess up.


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## boarder3 (Dec 4, 2008)

hey i dont mean to hijack the thread but i boght a forum recon last year and didnt do anything to the edges. I didnt hit any rails or boxes last year but was hoping to start this year. I would like to keep it an all mountain board tho so if i just left the edges would i have bad results if i hit a rail? thats kinda what always kept me from trying a box last year..afraid of catching an edge hardcore and fallin bad.


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## AWNOW (Sep 12, 2009)

boarder3 said:


> hey i dont mean to hijack the thread but i boght a forum recon last year and didnt do anything to the edges. I didnt hit any rails or boxes last year but was hoping to start this year. I would like to keep it an all mountain board tho so if i just left the edges would i have bad results if i hit a rail? thats kinda what always kept me from trying a box last year..afraid of catching an edge hardcore and fallin bad.


It will be fine if you are just messing around in the park here and there. On boxes just start going straight down the box and your edges aren't even an issue at all. It is just balance while on an alternate surface.


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## boarder3 (Dec 4, 2008)

Alright thanks. So you mean like if i were to try a board slide it might be a problem?


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## AWNOW (Sep 12, 2009)

boarder3 said:


> Alright thanks. So you mean like if i were to try a board slide it might be a problem?


Just work your way in to doing the other stuff. If it becomes a problem, then consider looking at a different board or edge bevel.


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## boarder3 (Dec 4, 2008)

yeah i was actually considering buyinh a park board after a while. But thanks again


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## $Lindz$ (Feb 18, 2009)

This thread is basically: *Is it cool if I sharpen some industrial shears, tape them to my hands, and try to run around the house in my socks while getting chased by a velociraptor?*

You will fall and slice your face open and then get eaten by a dinosaur.



I would take your board to a shop and pay them to detune your edge between the tip and tail. This is my biggest hard on for the Stepchild Jibstick, because its the first board I didn't have to file. There is enough edge on the contact points that you don't eat shit when you are outside of the park, but the dull edge between the bindings makes sure you don't die trying to boardslide.




But really, if you are asking this, no offesnse, but it means you aren't an "experienced" jibber and you should be careful... like not trying to hit rails 60% of the time with sharp euro carving edges. Nawmean?


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## LTshredTN (Apr 14, 2009)

$Lindz$ said:


> This thread is basically: *Is it cool if I sharpen some industrial shears, tape them to my hands, and try to run around the house in my socks while getting chased by a velociraptor?*
> 
> You will fall and slice your face open and then get eaten by a dinosaur.
> 
> ...



thanks for the info, and yes im on an experienced jibber its most new to me, thats why im wanting to learn all i can before i hit the park tis year cause i plan on trying tons of stuff, so i should take it to my board shop and get them to detune the edges between the bindings?? that way it would still hold a carve on the slop but not catch a edge on boxes or rails right?


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## Cr0_Reps_Smit (Jun 27, 2009)

personally all i do to my boards is detune the TIP AND TAIL only because those have no contact to the snow and wont matter, this has served me fine and i boardslide the shit out of rails with no problem with factory fresh edges sometimes. i will also occasionally bevel the base and side edges 2 degrees for all around park(rails/bigger jumps) and all mtn riding. i would never recommend someone detuning the entire edge between the tip and tail unless you plan on riding street or PURELY PARK and nothing else. its just stupid to do otherwise and still expect to be able to carve.

what i would do if i were you is take it to a shop and tell them you want a 2 degree bevel on both the base edge and side edge to keep the total angle of the edge at 90 degrees and you could detune the tip and tail up to right before the contacts points your self because you can just go to town on those without worrying about fuckin it up since those parts of the board dont have anything to do with turning anyway. you could also just have the shop detune it if you dont feel like bothering with it.


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## LTshredTN (Apr 14, 2009)

Cr0_Reps_Smit said:


> personally all i do to my boards is detune the TIP AND TAIL only because those have no contact to the snow and wont matter, this has served me fine and i boardslide the shit out of rails with no problem with factory fresh edges sometimes. i will also occasionally bevel the base and side edges 2 degrees for all around park(rails/bigger jumps) and all mtn riding. i would never recommend someone detuning the entire edge between the tip and tail unless you plan on riding street or PURELY PARK and nothing else. its just stupid to do otherwise and still expect to be able to carve.
> 
> what i would do if i were you is take it to a shop and tell them you want a 2 degree bevel on both the base edge and side edge to keep the total angle of the edge at 90 degrees and you could detune the tip and tail up to right before the contacts points your self because you can just go to town on those without worrying about fuckin it up since those parts of the board dont have anything to do with turning anyway. you could also just have the shop detune it if you dont feel like bothering with it.



thanks, so if i take it to my shop and just tell them im gna do mostly park with it & alittle bit on the groomers u think they could tune it right or should i tell them to do a 2 degree bevel on it??


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## $Lindz$ (Feb 18, 2009)

I'm curious why you guys would detune the tip and tail... that edge never touches any rails or boxes, but if i dig deep and throw my weight around, I can get that edge to bite like a surfboard when I am riding on the slopes..... 

I would agree that beveling would probably be the best compromise in this case.


But, with a tapered detuned edge between the bindings (it has a full edge and bite at the start and end of the sidecut, tapering to round in the middle/waist of the board) you still have an edge to hold while carving (a little bit) but you don't have anything to worry about catching while jibbing. I dunno.... not only are companies doing this, but it's how I have detuned my boards for the last ~10 years. But I ride ~80% jibbing with those boards...

I'd like to actually organize a bunch of different set ups to test and see what the differences are, but... time/$$$


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## twin89 (Jan 21, 2009)

I'm pretty sure all capita boards come with no bevels at all and super sharp outa the box so that you can tune it to your liking. 

I took my capita stairmaster took it outa the wrapper in the parking lot and then went to ride and it was really grabby, but it was like mostly slush so didn't make a diff really. 

I would recomend a 3 degree bevel and then detune the contact points a little. Have your LBS do it for you, should be pretty cheap


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## Cr0_Reps_Smit (Jun 27, 2009)

$Lindz$ said:


> I'm curious why you guys would detune the tip and tail... that edge never touches any rails or boxes, but if i dig deep and throw my weight around, I can get that edge to bite like a surfboard when I am riding on the slopes.....


even though the tip and tail dont touch the snow in normal riding when doing stuff like butters and presses where your putting a lot of weight on the tip or tail it makes it more catch free so its more smooth


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## CapitaRider (Aug 28, 2009)

Ok guys sorry to ask the same repetative question. 

I just got my new capita starmaster and I'm getting ready to take it to the boardshop. I also ride the icy east coast crap. What do I need to do my board if I plan on riding about 50 50 park slopes with emphisis on rails. Right now my edges are so sharp they cut my finger just holding it.

Here's what I'm getting so far, correct me if I'm wrong:
-2 degree bevel
-detune nose and tail
-what should I do for the effective edges?

Thanks guys


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## LTshredTN (Apr 14, 2009)

thanks for all this useful info guys!!! ok so ill just take it to the shop here and let them do it....but like the post above me, is that what i should tell them to do?? 2 degree bevel & detune tip & tail??


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## $Lindz$ (Feb 18, 2009)

LTshredTN said:


> thanks for all this useful info guys!!! ok so ill just take it to the shop here and let them do it....but like the post above me, is that what i should tell them to do?? 2 degree bevel & detune tip & tail??


*shrug*

I'm just saying I'm no tech and I don't work in a shop and I don't ride 300 days a year, but I've always detuned between the bindings and left the tip and tail edge. And that is how my current board came from the factory (Stpchild's R.E.T.T.) So... I dunno... if Joe Sexton, J.P. Walker, Simon Chamberlain and the rest of the StepChild team rock that shit, I will stand by the way that I have been tuning my edges for jibbing... it's the same way they do too.



I guess I'm outnumbered on here? :dunno:


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## CapitaRider (Aug 28, 2009)

CapitaRider said:


> Ok guys sorry to ask the same repetative question.
> 
> I just got my new capita starmaster and I'm getting ready to take it to the boardshop. I also ride the icy east coast crap. What do I need to do my board if I plan on riding about 50 50 park slopes with emphisis on rails. Right now my edges are so sharp they cut my finger just holding it.
> 
> ...


Soon to shop bump

Any input guys?


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## LTshredTN (Apr 14, 2009)

CapitaRider said:


> Soon to shop bump
> 
> Any input guys?


man, when i go i think im gna just tell them what kind of riding im gna be doing and see what they say? see if its close to what ive been told on here, if not then ill throw out there "well ive been told to try it like this" lol just do that man


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## CapitaRider (Aug 28, 2009)

LTshredTN said:


> man, when i go i think im gna just tell them what kind of riding im gna be doing and see what they say? see if its close to what ive been told on here, if not then ill throw out there "well ive been told to try it like this" lol just do that man


Sounds like a pretty good idea to me...


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