# Edge replacement/repair



## Guest (Nov 9, 2008)

Hey folks, I've got an '04 Burton T6 which has been one of my main goto boards since I've had it. One of my trips out west last year, I was pretty hard on my equipment. I ended up coming back with broken '05 C-60 bindings, and damaging my edge. I decided to get some new '09 C-60s this year and repair my T6 and get a few more years out of it. I have a degree in automotive engineering and high performance automotive, so naturally I'm a DIY guy. I've always repaired/maintained my boards myself, but I have never done an edge replacement. From my understanding I need to delaminate around the damaged part of the edge, use 45 degree angles on the replacement edge, use epoxy, jewlery screws, etc. I already have all of the supplies, and many many other snowboard tools laying around. I'm just posting this here to ask what tips, tricks, things to be cautious about you guys have from experience doing this. Here are a few pics of the damage.

Thanks guys.


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## mesomike (Mar 12, 2008)

Wow, good luck with the repair. If it was mine I would just look for a new board.


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## Guest (Nov 9, 2008)

It's definitely repairable. Considering what I paid for the board back in the day, I'd like to keep using it.


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## Suburban Blend (Feb 23, 2008)

That's as gnarly as it gets. I've seen a repair like that done, but only by an experienced ski tech. He cut out a semi circle of base, rebuilt the edge and side wall with a 3-4 inch piece from another board and did a dye-cut looking base repair with material from an old ski. So my Burton board had a Head logo in the semi circle of base...:laugh:

Good luck with that one...


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2008)

I'll be following this to a dime. I'll let you know how it goes.
Telemark Ski Base and Ski Edge Repair Guide


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2008)

Wow man, that sounds pretty crazy. I understand wanting to salvage your baby, but shit, that's a lot of tedious work. A lot of work even for a professional. Good luck.

If I were you I'd chalk it up to a board well used, head down to your local snowboard shop, and support the economy in your home town. 

The last thing you want, is to be on a trip and have that edge pop out in the middle of a beautiful day and have to either call it quits, or try to find a board you want in whatever shop they have nearby.

As a fellow "DIY'er" I say again, good luck.


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2008)

Considering some of the things I've done around the shop in the industry I'm in, this doesn't seem that tedious or time consuming. I'll be taking pictures along the way for a DIY thread.


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## rgrwilco (Oct 15, 2007)

repairs on stuff that gnarly tend to not hold up very long


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2008)

TheCarGuy2021 said:


> Considering some of the things I've done around the shop in the industry I'm in, this doesn't seem that tedious or time consuming. I'll be taking pictures along the way for a DIY thread.



If it doesn't seem tedious or time consuming, why are you asking for advice or tips? Obviously since you're an automotive engineer you should have absolutely no problems at all fixing a snowboard. I mean, the two go hand in hand.


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2008)

Twix said:


> If it doesn't seem tedious or time consuming, why are you asking for advice or tips? Obviously since you're an automotive engineer you should have absolutely no problems at all fixing a snowboard. I mean, the two go hand in hand.


Perhaps this is why I tend to stick to automotive forums. The repair seems pretty straight forward, but there are always little tricks that can make the outcome a little better or the job a little easier (such as mixing steel wool shavings in the epoxy for a stronger hold, or wrapping the edge anchors in kevlar twine).

I understand that I'm much better off just buying a new snowboard or just using one of my others, but if I can repair this one I can't justify buying a new board. If it doesn't turn out so well and the edge comes apart on the slopes, so be it. I'll continue riding it until day's end.


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2008)

Allright, sorry I was a jerk. Seriously, I'm interested in how this goes. Good luck.

Unfortunately, I don't have any advice for you on replacing an edge. I've never tried it.


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## RidePowder (Oct 30, 2008)

well one hes an automotive engineer, not a polymer chemist or composite engineer, and we all claim to be diehard snowboarders. So thats why he came here

But make sure you use long time set epoxy of course, compress shave off the stuff that oozes out of the laminate.trim the edges back about 1 inch from either side of the break to make sure that the current edge you have is perfectly straight and not wavy, and I dont know if you intend on soldering the edge in or just anchoring it, but I cant exactly recommend either since there is a high risk of melting the crap out of your base if you solder, and the edges left from anchoring it will create drag. unless you intend on fully swapping out your edge. in any and all cases I wish you the best of luck and let us know how it goes


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2008)

RidePowder said:


> well one hes an automotive engineer, not a polymer chemist or composite engineer, and we all claim to be diehard snowboarders. So thats why he came here
> 
> But make sure you use long time set epoxy of course, compress shave off the stuff that oozes out of the laminate.trim the edges back about 1 inch from either side of the break to make sure that the current edge you have is perfectly straight and not wavy, and I dont know if you intend on soldering the edge in or just anchoring it, but I cant exactly recommend either since there is a high risk of melting the crap out of your base if you solder, and the edges left from anchoring it will create drag. unless you intend on fully swapping out your edge. in any and all cases I wish you the best of luck and let us know how it goes



Acutally I do have some commonground here. I have taken numerous materials science courses covering atomic structures of bonding, properties selection, testing of materials, failure modes, methods of production and fabrication, methods of changing properties including heat treatment of metals and bonding compounds, alloying and surface treatments, mechanical workings, and composites and compound bonding.

Anywho, I appreciate your help. I posted here to get some tips from those who have actually done this, not to be told "oh just go buy a new snowboard" by those who have never even attempted such a repair. 5 years of student loans is more important to me than a new snowboard.


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## Guest (Nov 10, 2008)

Started tonight and went as far as I could until I get some epoxy and my new edge comes from Tognar. Still need to file down the edges a little so the edges are a perfect 45 degree angle since I used a hack saw.

Took some base off as well as the edge.

















After cleaning it up some more


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## RidePowder (Oct 30, 2008)

nice you are using long set epoxy to secure the base to the core then?

looks clean, and what did you use to fill in the gouge where your edge used to be

Ive never done anything this intense but Im glad to see it can be done


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## Guest (Nov 11, 2008)

Yes, long set epoxy. I haven't filled anything yet, thats what it looks like when it came apart. All apart, the damage really doesn't look that bad.


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## Guest (Nov 11, 2008)

That was a nice bite. What'd you do to it?

Fun project though. Even if the board doesn't make it, at least your beloved old board can sacrifice itself for the sake of your repair knowledge.


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## RidePowder (Oct 30, 2008)

what do you plan on using to fill that void where the core used to be? I would think it would have to have a structural quality to it and have to be bonded to the rest of the core


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## Guest (Nov 11, 2008)

Long set epoxy will be used to repair and fill the structure.

I'll also be repairing this nice cosmetic void on the top with epoxy replacing the ptex I used temporarily last year.


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## KIRKWOOD-$LUT (Dec 16, 2006)

i would have cut less out
u r messing with an aluminum core board, it is going to pop out over time

i did this for a living for over 10 years

with the t-6, i have done, i rip out edges and use what is called liquid edge made by winterstiger


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## Guest (Nov 11, 2008)

this is pretty interesting. good luck and keep the pictures coming!


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## Guest (Nov 13, 2008)

KIRKWOOD-$LUT said:


> with the t-6, i have done, i rip out edges and use what is called liquid edge made by winterstiger


Care to elaborate?


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## KIRKWOOD-$LUT (Dec 16, 2006)

well you have a metal core look

that will pop out maybe, i have seen a bunch

google liquid edge by wintersteiger, (SP)


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## Guest (Nov 13, 2008)

KIRKWOOD-$LUT said:


> well you have a metal core look
> 
> that will pop out maybe, i have seen a bunch
> 
> google liquid edge by wintersteiger, (SP)


I'm very aware I have a metal core and that screws won't do a great job holding the edge in. I haven't been able to find liquid edge by wintersteiger via google searches.


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## RidePowder (Oct 30, 2008)

hows the project progressing


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## Guest (Nov 13, 2008)

Package from Tognar with the edge and a few other things will be here tomorrow. :thumbsup:


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## RidePowder (Oct 30, 2008)

how did this turn out?


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## Extremo (Nov 6, 2008)

If you bought the board "back in the day" why dont you save yourself some money and hassle and buy a new board. Boards from 04 arent on par with what's out there today. With all the discounts and left over inventory you could find a great deal. But I am interested in how this thing comes out...its got to be one of the hardest repairs I've ever seen


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## Guest (Nov 20, 2008)

I've got a few other boards I can ride. I did just pick up an 08 T6 from Sierra for $400, but I still want to fix this one.

I used epoxy to repair the structure first. I then screwed the new edge in with jewelry screws, backed them out, ground off the heads, and glued them into place along with the edge. I then used a metal bonding ptex to fill the base. Still needs to be scraped though.


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## X1n54n3x (Sep 28, 2007)

my god. shits like frankenstein. i would be very hesitant to do any boardslides with that thing, dont want to punish the boys.


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## Guest (Nov 20, 2008)

X1n54n3x said:


> my god. shits like frankenstein. i would be very hesitant to do any boardslides with that thing, dont want to punish the boys.


It isn't scraped yet. Once scraped it will be flush and smooth as the rest of the base.


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## KIRKWOOD-$LUT (Dec 16, 2006)

http://www.wintersteiger.at/Winters...kel.p?Sprache=2&bereich=sports&RecIdSelf=4222


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## Guest (Nov 20, 2008)

KIRKWOOD-$LUT said:


> http://www.wintersteiger.at/Winters...kel.p?Sprache=2&bereich=sports&RecIdSelf=4222


I used this from Tognar. Same stuff?










P-tex does not bond well to steel, aluminum, wood, or fiberglass...so if you get a deep gouges that expose core material, or are along steel edges, it won't stay in place. This Metalgrip string is a mix of polyethylene and heat-sensitive adhesive which is ironed (using a base repair iron or pistol above) into core-shot gouges or along steel edges. Use the string to fill half of the repair area, then apply standard p-tex base repair material over the top for a finished repair.It is 3mm in diameter, and comes in a 10' roll. Metalgrip is more rubbery in texture than p-tex, and requires a very sharp tool (we recommend a versaplane or pansar file) to cleanly cut off excess repair material. Available in clear or black.


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## arsenic0 (Nov 11, 2008)

Wow man your way more dedicated to this than i ever would be...hopefully it works out for you after all this work..


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## KIRKWOOD-$LUT (Dec 16, 2006)

yes same shit
what i did was run it through my base grinder with low weight and very fast speed on the feed wheel
first i used a razor blad to remove excess


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## RidePowder (Oct 30, 2008)

this get finished yet?


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