# Can't get my right binding to stop moving



## Halborr (Oct 5, 2009)

P.S. It's finally snowing w00t!


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## Kingscare (Aug 13, 2009)

do you mean the screws keep un-tightening? Or do you mean your boot is moving within the binding?


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## Halborr (Oct 5, 2009)

The binding wiggles back and forth on the board, even when the screws are tight. I can tighten them down as much as possible and then strap in and wiggle the binding.


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## avenged1985 (Nov 3, 2009)

your screws might be stripped.


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## DC5R (Feb 21, 2008)

Maybe it's not the screws but some issue with your disc or the binding itself (eg the some of the teeth are sheared). Maybe the inserts in the board are loose. Have you eliminated all the possiblities?


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## Halborr (Oct 5, 2009)

I know it's not a problem between the binding and the plate. If I recall correctly, I believe there is nothing on the bottom of the binding for traction on the topsheet. That's why I was thinking I could just put some rubber or something as a spacer.


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## kingkoajmr (Nov 12, 2008)

it sounds like the screw may be too long and hitting the bottom of the threaded insert before it is able to aply the proper pressure to secure the baseplate. If so, a spacer or using shorter screws would achieve the same thing.


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## Halborr (Oct 5, 2009)

Hrm, that sounds like it might work *goes off to try it right away*


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## Halborr (Oct 5, 2009)

Turns out there wasn't anything for traction on the bottom of the bindings. It was just straight plastic. So... 5 minutes with an old bike tire tube and it doesn't move enough to notice (Probably 1/16 to 1/8 inch movement... I think I can live with that.) and another point against Burton:thumbsdown:


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## Kingscare (Aug 13, 2009)

A lot of bindings are straight plastic against the top sheet. It is very possible that your problem will resurface once you get out on the hill. When it does start to move again, try to see which screw is not holding it's end of the binding down.


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## earl_je (Oct 20, 2009)

It cant be just due to straight plastic against top sheet, besides, the left one should wiggle around also if on an off chance that's the case. Somethings gotta be loose somewhere.. post pics.


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## Guest (Dec 9, 2009)

earl_je said:


> It cant be just due to straight plastic against top sheet, besides, the left one should wiggle around also if on an off chance that's the case. Somethings gotta be loose somewhere.. post pics.


x2 and have you checked your adjustable heel cup/toe ramp?


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## avenged1985 (Nov 3, 2009)

kingkoajmr said:


> it sounds like the screw may be too long and hitting the bottom of the threaded insert before it is able to aply the proper pressure to secure the baseplate. If so, a spacer or using shorter screws would achieve the same thing.


the screw must be too long because if it was because of the plastic then wouldnt almost everyone have the plastic on plastic problem?


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## Halborr (Oct 5, 2009)

J.Kwak said:


> x2 and have you checked your adjustable heel cup/toe ramp?


How could these affect it? I haven't messed with them (and don't really know how to).

I'm not really sure how pictures could help this... If anyone wants to see anything specific, just say so.


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

Halborr said:


> ^^Like the title says, I can't get my right binding to stop moving. I've tried absolutely cranking down on it as hard as I can but it still wiggles back and forth. What can I do to remedy this? I was thinking maybe I can put some rubber under the bindings (might as well mirror it on the left) :dunno:
> 
> Burton customs on Burton clash
> 
> Good idea? Any better ideas?


uh...maaaayybe because its a burton


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## FreshTraxx (Nov 29, 2009)

i had the same problem with my back binding (Ride LX) last season.
turns out the mounting disc had worn away the binding teetch.

quick fix, a few little 1cm x 1cm cuts of fine rubber to help it clamp sorted my problem.
it held up for a few weeks while i was riding anyway.


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## DC5R (Feb 21, 2008)

Halborr said:


> Turns out there wasn't anything for traction on the bottom of the bindings. It was just straight plastic. So... 5 minutes with an old bike tire tube and it doesn't move enough to notice (Probably 1/16 to 1/8 inch movement... I think I can live with that.) and another point against Burton:thumbsdown:


That kindda doesn't make sense. My first set of bindings didn't have any rubber under the base plate, so essentially plastic against topsheet and it never moved. And these were LTD bindings (similar to Lamar, 5150, etc price point stuff). Glad you found out what's wrong and fixed it. Well, like you said, another one against the big B :thumbsdown:


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## picturethis (Dec 7, 2009)

Thats why I refuse to buy form Burton or Salamon


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## PaoloSmythe (Aug 19, 2007)

picturethis said:


> Thats why I refuse to buy form Burton or Salamon


my binders have only ever been Burton or Sal.... all have had plastic to plastic base to board interfaces and none have given me any problems at all.

if added bits of rubber fix the situation then that is good, albeit temporary prolly..... but i like the screws too long diagnosis. otherwise, the plate teeth are fekked.

blaming the brand however, is just attempting to displace personal incompetence IMO.:laugh:


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## Halborr (Oct 5, 2009)

Well, after meditating on it awhile I think I know where the problem came from. The screws had initially backed out while on the hill to where the bindings were REALLY loose (the loctite had worn away from taking the screws in and out too much) which caused snow to get between the topsheet and binding. As we all know, snow melts into water, and water makes things slippery. There wasn't the usual friction against the topsheet, so 3 screws (thanks again, burton...) weren't enough to keep it from moving (besides, screws aren't made to support a shear (I believe that's the correct term) load). 

This is the logic that leads me to believe some rubber between there should provide enough friction to keep things from moving around. Between that and some superglue (I don't have any loctite.. should get some, but I'm cheap) we'll see if the theory works in practice. Sound logic? We'll see if it works this Sunday (w00t first session for the year instead of jibbing in my neighbor's yard!). *packs toolbox*


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## kMc (Oct 24, 2008)

i would not put superglue on your screws.


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## sook (Oct 25, 2009)

kMc said:


> i would not put superglue on your screws.


Yeah, especially if you're wrong about the fix and have to try to remove the screws again. Superglue doesn't sound like it would break loose very easily. I vote for the screws being too long


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## bxnykbridge (Dec 8, 2009)

*Answer*

your screws r prob a little too long...if your screws r all the way down then there is no way the bindings should be lose..an easy way to solve this is get some washers to put on b4 the screw or a tiny bit longer screw...when theyre tightened all the way down the bindings wont move...same thing happened to me n i figured out that the screws were tooo long to put pressure on the bindings so no matter how tight they get screwed they wont hold nething in place!!!!


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## Halborr (Oct 5, 2009)

Well, just as an update, I went to the hill on Sunday (just didn't get around to posting until today...) and no problems whatsoever. Seems to have fixed it :thumbsup:


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## Triple8Sol (Nov 24, 2008)

They shouldn't move at all...1/8" movement is totally unacceptable. I'm thinking the teeth on the bottom of the baseplate are worn down (smoothed out).


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## Guest (Dec 22, 2009)

could be one of these issues:
1.)disc is in contact with the board
2.)screws too long

The bindings shouldn't move at all and you shouldn't need to modify anything in order to prevent this. But it is what it is so you could try a few things. Sand down the base of your discs. This will lift it up off the board and pull down on the base plate when the screws are inserted. Could also try thing adhesive foam on the base plates, and shorter screws.


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## Deviant (Dec 22, 2009)

It has absolutly nothing to do with having 3 screws, my est's have only 2 per binding and never moved once. 

If it starts moving again ditch the rubber idea, rubber on the top sheet of a board or plastics of the bindings will move just as easily as plastic will. Place a piece of rubber on the topsheet of your board on a cold wet day and tell me if it slides easily. post some pics of the teeth in the rotational adjustment if possible. If it's not the teeth it's your screws being too long. Small thin washers are very cheap to buy at Lowes or Home Depot.


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## yusoweird (Apr 6, 2009)

You really haven't fully describe the movement you experience. you said the binding moves, but which part is moving specifically? the whole binding? side to side? rotation? toe to heal shifts? is it a static shift in position or constant wiggling? how much force do you need to move it?

also, are you using regular binding screws or some of your own screws with washer? Do they have the V shape near the head of the screw?


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## Halborr (Oct 5, 2009)

The problem has been remedied- at least for now.

I am using the binding screws and washers that came with the bindings. The whole binding was rotating under normal riding circumstances.


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## VTRDR (Oct 15, 2009)

yeah any movement on the binding is not cool at all. The way you blame Burton is pretty lame though. I have NEVER had any problems with all of my bindings from them (8-10 pairs over the years). If Burton is so bad then sell your gear and buy something with "quality", I hear Lamar is top of the line.....


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## SnowBrdScotty (Apr 4, 2009)

i have a bag full of the screws and washers you need. came off a burton binding. pm me if you want it.


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## Halborr (Oct 5, 2009)

VTRDR said:


> yeah any movement on the binding is not cool at all. The way you blame Burton is pretty lame though. I have NEVER had any problems with all of my bindings from them (8-10 pairs over the years). If Burton is so bad then sell your gear and buy something with "quality", I hear Lamar is top of the line.....


How is it lame to blame the makers of the pair of bindings that have given me grief? They managed to not put anything for traction on the bottom of their bindings (or at least the pair I got.). If this is an industry standard, then I blame the industry. Besides, no offense, but personal experience trumps some random dude from a forum's experience every time.

Must be quite a hot topic for you, huh?


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## FLuiD (Jul 6, 2009)

As much as I hate Burton I had a set of Customs last year and did not experience this problem. There has to be something in the inserts, screws to long, stripped baseplate etc...


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## Halborr (Oct 5, 2009)

Yeah, I don't know. Probably will never know what the fix was that did it because I did several things at once.

Screw the scientific method, I just wanted my bindings to work <grin>.


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## Triple8Sol (Nov 24, 2008)

Look, this guy wants to point fingers blindly, instead of admitting that it's either user error or something else logical. Post pics to disprove the ideas we've come up with b/c so far nobody is convinced. Your bicycle tire tube band-aid is absurd. You seem like the kind of person that thinks duct tape and jb weld can fix anything...lol.


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## SnowBrdScotty (Apr 4, 2009)

you said it :thumbsup: ^


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## VTRDR (Oct 15, 2009)

Triple8Sol said:


> Look, this guy wants to point fingers blindly, instead of admitting that it's either user error or something else logical. Post pics to disprove the ideas we've come up with b/c so far nobody is convinced. Your bicycle tire tube band-aid is absurd. You seem like the kind of person that thinks duct tape and jb weld can fix anything...lol.


Thank you! Excellent point!


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## Deviant (Dec 22, 2009)

Good point, I'd like to see pics of the bottom of these bindings too. I'll bet it's the same as any other pair of Burton bindings. There's no need for excess traction on a board when the binding shouldnt move to begin with.


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## Guest (Dec 25, 2009)

i have the customs 2 and i had the exact same problem but the screws just came loose over the summer i guess. because it seems to be working fine again well find out tomorrow i guess


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## Guest (Dec 28, 2009)

I had this same problem riding with k2 bindings on my burton board. For me the problem was that the screws were too long and weren't properly holding down the bindings. I added washers and it solved my problem for the most part, but it still wiggles sometimes. Its terribly annoying. And no its not entirely burton's fault, but come on. Burton should give you gear that fits perfectly with other products. Its kinda lame that so many experience problems when they ride burton products


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## crazyface (Mar 1, 2008)

i am having problems with my bindings staying still also. this is my 3rd year using these union forces and they consistantly loosen whenever i go boarding. the screws loosen after what seem to be only a couple of runs. i know that it is only the screws loosening and these are the right screws becasuse i have been using them for 2 years.

how can i stop my screws from loosening whenever i board?


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## kingkoajmr (Nov 12, 2008)

crazyface said:


> how can i stop my screws from loosening whenever i board?


check out this thread


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## andrewboktor (Nov 11, 2010)

*It's not Burton's mistake*

Probably the inserts in your board are a little shallow. Thus, the screws hit the bottom before then can pull the baseplate to the board hard enough to stop it from moving. Now, how did the rubber under the baseplate solve it? When you put rubber under your baseplate, it elevated the baseplate a little thus making the screws pull on the baseplate a little earlier, and voila!! now the screws are pulling hard enough to keep your base plate from moving.

AND, baseplate on topsheet is more slippery than with rubber in between. The solution was not the rubber, the solution was the elevation of the baseplate.

Cheers!!


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## J.Schaef (Sep 13, 2009)

Halborr said:


> The problem has been remedied- at least for now.
> 
> I am using the binding screws and washers that came with the bindings. The whole binding was rotating under normal riding circumstances.


Dude, your binders don't need rubber feet to prevent them from moving. That's nuts. Friction will hold those puppies in place.

The problem hasn't been remedied. You just hacked something together that is more than likely going to cause a bigger problem down the road.

There are only 3 possible problems. They have all been mentioned here. I don't know why you haven't addressed them.

1: Your discs are in contact with the board (easy fix with some sandpaper and the bottom of the disc)
2: Your screws are too long. (easy fix with a couple little washers)
3: Your disc and or binding has stripped teeth and is slipping.

There are no other reasons that your binding would move on the board when tight.


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## andrewboktor (Nov 11, 2010)

J.Schaef said:


> This.
> 
> 
> The problem hasn't been remedied. You just hacked something together that is more than likely going to cause a bigger problem down the road.
> ...


problems 1 and 2 get solved as well by adding rubber under the baseplate. 1. by elevating the baseplate, you elevate the disc as well and thus eliminate the contact with the board. 2. read my previous post.

About problem 3, it's probably your mistake in the first place because you destroyed them by riding with loose bindings.


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## TomasZ (Oct 17, 2010)

Triple8Sol said:


> Look, this guy wants to point fingers blindly, instead of admitting that it's either user error or something else logical. Post pics to disprove the ideas we've come up with b/c so far nobody is convinced. Your bicycle tire tube band-aid is absurd. You seem like the kind of person that thinks duct tape and jb weld can fix anything...lol.


Hahahaha. 
+ 1 on the washers. I'm convinced your screws are too long. I also agree this could turn into a bigger problem down the road i.e. warping the binding, etc. And I can't think of a single binding or board that has rubber in between them.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.


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## andrewboktor (Nov 11, 2010)

Mount snowboard bindings -- SnowProfessor.com

Check minute 1:15


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## J.Schaef (Sep 13, 2009)

andrewboktor said:


> problems 1 and 2 get solved as well by adding rubber under the baseplate. 1. by elevating the baseplate, you elevate the disc as well and thus eliminate the contact with the board. 2. read my previous post.
> 
> About problem 3, it's probably your mistake in the first place because you destroyed them by riding with loose bindings.


No, those problems weren't "solved"

They had a temporary shitty solution applied, that will likely cause the problems to come back, worse than they were originally.


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## andrewboktor (Nov 11, 2010)

J.Schaef said:


> No, those problems weren't "solved"
> 
> They had a temporary shitty solution applied, that will likely cause the problems to come back, worse than they were originally.


Why weren't they solved?? I think it is a totally fine solution to elevate the baseplates by adding rubber under them. It also protects your topsheet from any marks that the bindings could leave on them.


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## kingkoajmr (Nov 12, 2008)

i'm just glad andrew joined the forum and his first 3 posts were reviving a 9 month old dead thread about an issue that can be fixed with a $1.29 box of washers from home depot.


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## J.Schaef (Sep 13, 2009)

andrewboktor said:


> Why weren't they solved?? I think it is a totally fine solution to elevate the baseplates by adding rubber under them. It also protects your topsheet from any marks that the bindings could leave on them.


Internet Engineers. 



kingkoajmr said:


> i'm just glad andrew joined the forum and his first 3 posts were reviving a 9 month old dead thread about an issue that can be fixed with a $1.29 box of washers from home depot.


Agreed.


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## TomasZ (Oct 17, 2010)

andrewboktor said:


> Why weren't they solved?? I think it is a totally fine solution to elevate the baseplates by adding rubber under them. It also protects your topsheet from any marks that the bindings could leave on them.


If the binding had been mounted correctly in the first place with zero 'play' present, then there could be no marks made by the bindings since they never moved on the top sheet with lots of force.


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