# Snowboard scrapers



## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

TBH,... a few years back I wasted $20-$25 on one of these....

https://express.google.com/u/0/prod...a5fzAm_0xY5utJ7Eye74OgzRJhUoOaPUaAjvYEALw_wcB

But seriously,..? You can buy one of these for under $8-$10 and you've got three sharp edges. 

https://www.peterglenn.com/product/...9jF3aZfJ7a7bEZDulcznBBNlA7zlVuGYaAikoEALw_wcB

When they wear out in 5-6 years? _Buy another!!!_ :blink:


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## Craig64 (Jul 16, 2015)

I've used a variety of techniques over 10 years of tuning boards from running a razor 90 degrees across the top of my 5mm perspex scraper to a ToKo scraper sharpener and found the best is a bastard file put in a woodworking vice. I can run the scraper at 90 degrees by having the scraper side skim across the inner face side of the timber vice jaws. Sharp as and super quick. I do a sharpen every board as it round off pretty quick. I sharp scraper is so much quicker and easier.










I made my scraper out of 5mm perspex just go to a plastic supplier and you can get a bit of scrap out of their bins. I then just cut it up on the band saw.


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

Craig51 said:


> I've used a variety of techniques over 10 years of tuning boards from running a razor 90 degrees across the top of my 5mm perspex scraper to a ToKo scraper sharpener and found the best is a bastard file put in a woodworking vice. I can run the scraper at 90 degrees by having the scraper side skim across the inner face side of the timber vice jaws. Sharp as and super quick. I made my scraper out of 5mm perspex just go to a plastic supplier and you can get a bit of scrap out of their bins. I then just cut it up on the band saw.




Nice! 

However, I prefer the triangular scrapers as I was told they wont bend or deform during scraping. So no chance of accidentally gouging the base. 

I.E. they're supposedly "Idiot Proof! (...which is a GREAT thing for me!!)  :laugh:


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## 2by2handsofblue (Mar 7, 2017)

Thanks. I do have a couple of scrapers. And I didn't want to keep buying new 1s.

Someone on Amazon who responded to my question about registering scrapers suggested not to sharpen. He or she said u don't want it too sharp. I guess that could gauge the base. 

So, how do u know not to go too sharp? 

Any pics if provided would be helpful. 

Thanks 

2by2handsofblue


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## SlvrDragon50 (Mar 25, 2017)

Drywall screen gets them going great for real cheap.


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

2by2handsofblue said:


> ...Someone on Amazon who responded to my question about registering scrapers suggested not to sharpen. He or she said u don't want it too sharp. I guess that could gauge the base.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



A scrapers edge is sharp when its @ 90°. They aren't sharpened into an edge like a knife or anything. 

All these rasps, files & sharpers do is restore the worn/rounded edge angle to 90°!

The gouging I was referring to would be due to having a rectangular scraper bend. Thus there is a rounded, not a flat/square edge running along the base. I guess it could potentially "scoop" out or gouge a section of the base. Or so I understood anyway. 

Harder if not impossible to do that wih the shorter edged triangle. It can't/won't bend like that. :shrug:

(... of course all of that might just be a NooB myth !)  :lol:


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## Oldman (Mar 7, 2012)

SlvrDragon50 said:


> Drywall screen gets them going great for real cheap.


+1 The cheapest, easiest and best. Keeps 'em nice and sharp


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## Craig64 (Jul 16, 2015)

chomps1211 said:


> A scrapers edge is sharp when its @ 90°. They aren't sharpened into an edge like a knife or anything.
> 
> All these rasps, files & sharpers do is restore the worn/rounded edge angle to 90°!
> 
> ...


This is true, There is a massive difference in scraping a board with a blunt scraper to a sharp one. I like to use 5mm as it doesn't bend much due to the perspex thickness. I round up the edges to prevent gouging. Try to get a scraper around 150-200mm+ as it is easier to keep level due to the width. When you scrape you push forward with the scraper at around 30 to 45 degrees tilted forward. I have people drop over like 5 snowboards to do before they go away and having the gear set up right makes it so much quicker, easier and more professional.










Going to Japan in a week and have 5 boards (son and myself) and a set of ski's I've just done. Hard work; scraping, scotch pad, rotor brush and horsehair polish off. I run the scraper across the file before every board you only need about 2 slides and the edge is back at a sharp 90 degrees.


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## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

Nothing will beat a taping knife if you aren't an idiot with it.


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## Craig64 (Jul 16, 2015)

f00bar said:


> Nothing will beat a taping knife if you aren't an idiot with it.


Drywall screen, taping knife............, is this a snowboard forum.


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## SlvrDragon50 (Mar 25, 2017)

Craig51 said:


> Drywall screen, taping knife............, is this a snowboard forum.


You started it mentioning the bandsaw! :grin:


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

Presuming you are using a plastic/acrylic scraper....

So as ur scraping the wax off your board, occasionally/frequently use the edge of your board to sharpen the edge of your scraper by dragging the edge of the scraper across/at 90 degrees/perpendicular of the board's edge.

cheap, easy and no drywall accidents

or the most easy and cheapest...use the no-scrape crayon method...and RIDE


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## Phedder (Sep 13, 2014)

I use one of these for both P-tex and wax in the shop. Doesn't require sharpening very often at all, and takes wax off a hell of a lot faster than any perspex/plastic scraper.


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## Myoko (Dec 11, 2018)

I just run it squarely over some sandpaper I lie flat on the ground a few times. Works for me.

Last year I tried for the first time not scraping any wax off at all and apart from the first 15m before I strapped in (first time) I didn't notice any difference to be honest. Unless you are a professional or competing, I suggest you won't either as I had been doing my board and many others for nearly 20 years. The guy who suggested I try it would be in the top 1% of riders on any mountain.


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## 2by2handsofblue (Mar 7, 2017)

Phedder said:


> I use one of these for both P-tex and wax in the shop. Doesn't require sharpening very often at all, and takes wax off a hell of a lot faster than any perspex/plastic scraper.


I read that metal scrapers could damage the board if your not careful. Especially if your new or haven't used a metal scraper. 

2by2handsofblue


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## Myoko (Dec 11, 2018)

Metal scrapers are the best I agree, but yes, you probably should have a fair bit of experience before you try to use them. I unfortunately lost mine somehow, but now that I have gone over to the dark side and don't use them at all its irrelevant. Your board does look pretty shit underneath quickly though I must admit but will be fine apart from that.


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## robotfood99 (Mar 19, 2016)

wrathfuldeity said:


> or the most easy and cheapest...use the no-scrape crayon method...and RIDE



This, and a scotchbrite pad. Quick and clean.


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## smellysell (Oct 29, 2018)

wrathfuldeity said:


> Presuming you are using a plastic/acrylic scraper....
> 
> So as ur scraping the wax off your board, occasionally/frequently use the edge of your board to sharpen the edge of your scraper by dragging the edge of the scraper across/at 90 degrees/perpendicular of the board's edge.
> 
> ...





robotfood99 said:


> This, and a scotchbrite pad. Quick and clean.


Can one of you expiration the no scrape crayon method? 

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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

The Crayon Method:

https://www.snowboardingforum.com/boards/254930-wax-wax-off-brands-tales.html#post3288890


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## Scalpelman (Dec 5, 2017)

I use sandpaper and a 90deg file bottom as a guide. It’s what I could find in the shop. No need to buy anything.


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## smellysell (Oct 29, 2018)

chomps1211 said:


> The Crayon Method:
> 
> https://www.snowboardingforum.com/boards/254930-wax-wax-off-brands-tales.html#post3288890


Thanks!

Any preference on hot or cold? Pros/cons? 

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## robotfood99 (Mar 19, 2016)

smellysell said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Any preference on hot or cold? Pros/cons?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I prefer the warm because its much easier to rub wax onto the base than when doing it cold. The only con to the warm method that I can think of is that it can get messy because hot wax can drip off the iron as you are applying the wax. Just make sure you hold the iron over the board base and not the table/floor/carpet/pet/bare foot. 

Cold is cleaner and a little faster but can take more effort to rub on the wax.


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## Rip154 (Sep 23, 2017)

Iron it on if you can, cleans base too. If you meant wax for hot/cold weather, pick something in between/universal, the cold weather wax is hard to apply without melting it.


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## smellysell (Oct 29, 2018)

Rip154 said:


> Iron it on if you can, cleans base too. If you meant wax for hot/cold weather, pick something in between/universal, the cold weather wax is hard to apply without melting it.


Meant hot or cold wax method. 

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## Rip154 (Sep 23, 2017)

Ok, yeah depends on the wax then.


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

The warm crayon method has the potential to be a little messier, yes! But it is a little less work and It will transfer more wax to the base than the cold crayon method. Sometimes a little too much if your intent was not to scrape. 

Short dabs with the block of wax to the hot iron are key. 

You only want to warm it enough that you smear more wax with each rub. Hold it too long and you've got lots of excess wax dripping off the block of wax & the iron. Not good for the carpet, kitchen counter or linoleum if you're working indoors. 

Cold method requires a little more muscle and only puts down the thinnest of wax layers. But much less chance of dripping. 

Neither method should require scraping, but a nice buff tip to tail, with a green scrubby after ironing leaves a nice brushed gloss finish. 

WARNING; All methods require _some_ caution to avoid making a mess.  :shrug:


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## Phedder (Sep 13, 2014)

2by2handsofblue said:


> I read that metal scrapers could damage the board if your not careful. Especially if your new or haven't used a metal scraper.
> 
> 2by2handsofblue


I used to think that too, and I guess it's possible if you're a reckless idiot, but after using one to scrape literally 1000's of boards and skis I've never gouged a base. You'd have to have sharpened it to put a sharp edge on it rather than a standard 90 degree corner, and be pushing down into the base with a lot of pressure at a sharp angle.


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

Phedder said:


> I used to think that too, and I guess it's possible if you're a reckless idiot, but after using one to scrape literally 1000's of boards and skis I've never gouged a base. You'd have to have sharpened it to put a sharp edge on it rather than a standard 90 degree corner, and be pushing down into the base with a lot of pressure at a sharp angle.


And generally you pull (toward your body) the metal scraper toward you because its easier to gouge the base if you push the scraper. Compared to a plastic scraper, it doesn't matter push or pull.


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