# P-TEX, Wax, Wax Iron - Recommendations



## DaveMcI (Aug 19, 2013)

Racewax.Com has good starter kits with every thing u need.


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## Oldman (Mar 7, 2012)

Ok, you've been savvy to this point, don't lose it now. To get set up for waxing:

Don't get a "kit"

You need the following to get going:

An Iron; Toko or Swix. You will only ever purchase one, get a good one and you have it for life.

Keep reading up on waxes and get a solid all temp to get you going. Dominator, Swix, Toko, One Ball Jay. You will expand your choices with experience.

A scraper

A green scotch pad from under the kitchen sink ( preferably a new one )

Keep pounding the web for videos for how to wax a board. You will find that the 4 items above are all you need to get an excellent wax down on your board.

I'll let others give you the skinny on P-tex repairs. 

Waxing is simply a matter of a little practice. Once you have the hang of it, you will wax a board in no time, no more than one beer. :wink:


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

diy tool kit:

first, foremost and the place where you don't want to cheap out....good micro brew

second, have another micro brew

third, thrift store travel iron...no holes...going on 12 years on my used one found for $1

fourth, wax, 85-95% of wax is just paraffin...canning wax...go to the grocery store and get a 1 lb block for $5...which for a single board will last for many years

fifth, get 1 bar of warm and 1 bar of cold wax. When waxing...use the crayon method of putting down a base wax of paraffin...then do another layer with the ski/board wax. They will mix/melt together and work just fine for a beginner to advanced level of progression. 

sixth, scraper...just use a piece of acrylic and or a piece of metal/aluminum sheet (4x6")...sharpen the edge by just running it across a piece of sandpaper/belt sander at a 90 degree.

seventh, learn how to scrape by pulling the scraper...if using the crayola method of waxing...there won't be much to scrape or a mess to clean up. Actually you won't even need to scrape if you don't want to....just a couple of runs will do the same.

thus avoiding the additional expenses of marketing BS....which will resulting in the financial availability for yet another micro brew...to which will only add to your brah stokage points. 

:wink:


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## Oldman (Mar 7, 2012)

Wraith, I'm so glad you're around to keep the priorities in order;

Micro beer before all other considerations.

Thanks so much for reminding us all of what the real reason is that we ride. ccasion14:


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

Oldman said:


> Wraith, I'm so glad you're around to keep the priorities in order;
> 
> Micro beer before all other considerations.
> 
> Thanks so much for reminding us all of what the real reason is that we ride. ccasion14:



yup...like in doing anything right....its all about the prep...i.e., attain the proper mind set in which to approach and do the job. 1 to get ready, 2 to go and 3...reward for doing such a good job :grin:


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## jerry gnarcia (Feb 11, 2017)

Two tips:

1) If you see smoke, your stuff is too hot. Find a temperature that melts without making smoke. Smoke is bad.

2) You won't need as much wax as you think you'll need, and when it comes time to scrape, you will say, "damn, I should have taken rule #2 more seriously"


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## kriegs13 (Nov 28, 2016)

Collapsible foot stools are a decent substitute for a vice or rack. Not perfect, but decent.


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## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

ride it like u stole it


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## freshy (Nov 18, 2009)

Hertel wax is the best one for the price that I have used, I even order it from the states because it's not sold in Canada (or not that I know of) I used to buy Kuu. Really most waxes sold in a real snowboard shop will be great, it's when you go to Sport Check and find it's half the price because it's just parrafin. 
I just use all season because it's easy, used to be cold and warm wax guy, but inevitably there will be a day when it's spring and you need a wax and all you have is cold wax and your board will be hella slow. 

An iron and a scraper and a block of wax are all you need for your kit. The green scrubby will finish off the board nicely but it's not all that necessary. If your racing there are corks and brushes and files that will make you 4% faster for 87% of the first run then your base is pretty much like everyone elses.

The crayon method is awesome, learn it. 

With Ptex unless your base is black don't do the light it on fire and drip method, it will make your base look like crap. Instead use the iron to melt it. I have used 6 pack rings in the past and in my mind it works better since my friends Ptex candle job popped out and my 6pack-tex is still holding up. Plus melted and hardened six pack rings look clear which is kinda cool, Ptex candles leave soot behind.


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## freshy (Nov 18, 2009)

wrathfuldeity said:


> fourth, wax, 85-95% of wax is just paraffin...canning wax... When waxing...use the crayon method of putting down a base wax of paraffin...then do another layer with the ski/board wax.


I just can't get over this, you actually put paraffin wax on your board? If there is already 85-95% paraffin in your wax why would you bump it up to 92-99%. Do you like to point it straight down and go slow?


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

freshy said:


> I just can't get over this, you actually put paraffin wax on your board? If there is already 85-95% paraffin in your wax why would you bump it up to 92-99%. Do you like to point it straight down and go slow?


I'm old...and already careening towards certain death...55 mph (btw is less than my age) is an acceptable speed towards that end....what can I say...I'd like to enjoy the ride a few more years.


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## Chase (Aug 18, 2017)

Hey thanks for all the replies and advice.

Question(s):

I see one recommendation was using a travel iron with out the holes. 
I read somewhere else, look for ones with holes. 
Is that like some debatable thing about the iron having holes or not having holes?

Not that I know much about ironing to begin with but aren't the holes in an iron designed for steam...? So what use are they with waxing a snowboard? Just trying to understand.

PTEX- what's a 6pack -TEX? And the difference between it and regular P-TEX.

Oh... Wait... Mental image coming in now.. is that a reference to the plastic that holds a 6 pack of soda/beer? 

And yes, I saw many had brown repairs after burning PTEX. From what I've seen it's due to they're holding the candle too far away from the board. Allowing it to burn yellow. Holding it closer it burns blue, remains clear with no brown/black soot. 

I do 3D printing. Plastics heated too much turn brown. Burn. I recognized it initially seeing a how to on P-TEX repair.

Last question. How do you determine if a scratch should be PTEX repaired? You know what I mean? Determining which are just wax over scratches while others are needing PTEX? Aside from the obvious that is. 

Thanks


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## kriegs13 (Nov 28, 2016)

Chase said:


> Hey thanks for all the replies and advice.
> 
> Question(s):
> 
> ...


-I'm far from an expert, but I can't think of any good reason to have an iron with holes. I got a cheapo board/ski specific iron from amazon and after using it and my buddy's swix iron; I can say that the more expensive one did work better. By this I mean consistent heat mainly. Never used a travel iron so I can't speak to those but when I buy my next iron, it will definitely be one of the "good ones"

-I personally only worry about Ptex if a scratch is deeper than a trimmed finger nail/if it looks like it is close to base sheet/core.


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## Snow Hound (Jul 21, 2012)

I used an old steam iron with holes until recently. It worked but dirty wax would plug those holes and occasionally come out again when I didn't want it to. No hole's the goal.

Sent from my ONE E1001 using Tapatalk


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## Chase (Aug 18, 2017)

As far as wax is concerned. 

Since it's mostly paraffin. And one should layer and build up rather than remove each time you wax from what I've read and watched on YouTube.

For the base wax coat. Would canning wax, which is straight paraffin, be a good base wax to build on? Then use a universal wax or hot/ cold on layers after that?

Or do you need a harder or softer wax for the base (1st coat) of wax?

In a nut shell, which wax is best for the first layer to build subsequent wax layers on?

Thanks


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## JohnnyKruick (Aug 30, 2017)

First and most importantly, and I know this was already mentioned but you can't stress this enough, have a good beer or three with you for waxing!

Just kind of a side not I usually keep my iron at about 110 degrees for waxing my board up. Also, before you put any wax down run the iron up and down the board a bit to warm it up and open up the pores on the base. This will allows the wax to get in and (ideally) stay in your base longer.

After you've done it several times you'll get your own methods down. Cheers!


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## kriegs13 (Nov 28, 2016)

Chase said:


> As far as wax is concerned.
> 
> Since it's mostly paraffin. And one should layer and build up rather than remove each time you wax from what I've read and watched on YouTube.
> 
> ...




Beats me! I just use Hertel hot sauce for everything!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## freshy (Nov 18, 2009)

Chase said:


> Hey thanks for all the replies and advice.
> 
> Question(s):
> 
> ...


Not sure if I confused you but there is no debate over iron holes or not. None is better, holes will work but not recommended. I can only guess gunk builds up in the holes maybe...I dunno just get a holeless one.

Yeah I said I have used 6pack-tex lol. Heard about using 6 pack rings as p-tex back in the 90's and tried it and it worked awesome. I don't think anyone else here has ever tried it. Made the name up myself.

I use p-tex on gouges and core shots. Scratches I leave alone for the most part but I have had base grinds done in the past. Depends on the deepness and shape I guess, jagged deep ones I'd fill, a small gouges that have also have a scratch from them I'd probably leave, and core shots are obvious.


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## Chase (Aug 18, 2017)

freshy said:


> Not sure if I confused you but there is no debate over iron holes or not. None is better, holes will work but not recommended. I can only guess gunk builds up in the holes maybe...I dunno just get a holeless one.
> 
> Yeah I said I have used 6pack-tex lol. Heard about using 6 pack rings as p-tex back in the 90's and tried it and it worked awesome. I don't think anyone else here has ever tried it. Made the name up myself.
> 
> I use p-tex on gouges and core shots. Scratches I leave alone for the most part but I have had base grinds done in the past. Depends on the deepness and shape I guess, jagged deep ones I'd fill, a small gouges that have also have a scratch from them I'd probably leave, and core shots are obvious.


No, you didn't confuse me. I had read in other places about both irons, with holes, and without. It seemed there was a debate going on about which was the better choice. 

I don't see the need for holes. It doesn't make sense to have them to me at the moment, but, I've never tried to fix a snowboard base before. 

The 6 pack ring/yoke idea I was going to run with but in looking up what they're made of, there's been a change. They're now made from an LDPE which is 100% photodegradable. In hopes to help the environment. So... I don't think that's a good choice anymore. Sun light degrades it, supposedly within 6 years completely.

I really just need to find out exactly what P-TEX is.

As I mentioned I do 3D printing. I have various tools and accessories to work with plastic filaments I use. 

My thought is if I can find out exactly what P-TEX is. I may find a filament that's the same. And repurpose some of my 3D printing tools to do repairs on my board. They may do a better job. 

As well I have another thought using the P-TEX sticks you can buy, depending on their diameter. I was thinking a adjustable temp glue stick gun would work nicely. 

As well as the other type of P-TEX I read about, though the exact name escapes me at the moment. It's suppose to be stronger than the P-TEX candles.

The gears in the old noggin are always turning with me... Lol it's the tinkerer or curious craftsman in me I guess. 

Like yourself I guess too. If not, you'd of never tried the six pack rings. ;-)

Cheers...


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## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

Seriously, ptex is under $1 a stick, closer to 50c if you buy a pack of like 10 which would last you for probably 10 years. You are way over thinking this entire endeavor.


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## Chase (Aug 18, 2017)

f00bar said:


> Seriously, ptex is under $1 a stick, closer to 50c if you buy a pack of like 10 which would last you for probably 10 years. You are way over thinking this entire endeavor.


I didn't mean to give the impression I was.

I try not to do many repairs without product knowledge and wrapping my head around the various methods to the madness. Even thinking about ways I might do it differently, even if slightly so to improve on a method.

Tonight in trying to find out more about P-TEX, I stumbled on a pretty good article/blog post that goes into more detail not only on the repair materials but the board base materials. What the materials are made of and the differences in them. 

If you'd like to read the article, which may be common knowledge to you guys but it's news to me... Here's the link:

http://www.tognar.com/blog/base-repairs/

I was on the right track with my thinking. That there were similarities in some of the things I do in 3D printing and working with plastics. Making repairs to prints etc. To repairs made to snowboard bases. 

One of the tools they're using is an specific iron to make the repair with a more durable/similar hardness material to the original material of board bases.

Here's a video of the process:

https://youtu.be/ERMDhZbWiy4

To me that's just a variable temp soldering iron with a flat tip. (Which I already own.) And I have something similar in a smaller scale for 3D print repairs. As a matter of fact I have a variety of tips for it.

At least now I have a better understanding of things. And can make a more educated decision when it comes to repairing my board.

Besides, you never know, maybe I would've come up with a new technique for board repair and you'd be buying my new base repair kit next season.. lol.

Things like that, take some thought...

Thanks again guys, 
Cheers...


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## Lespaul4542 (Aug 13, 2017)

Hertel Super Hot Sauce wax, it is cheap and it is amazing! I honestly just do everything as cheap as possible, but be careful and smart, and it totally works. I couldn't get myself to buy a 90 dollar iron or kit. So I got Hertel wax, scotch bright pad, some nylon brush (strong bristles), and believe it or not for a scraper... a smooth window scraper that you would use on a car! The handle is amazing, and it covers great surface area. And for an iron, I went to walmart and chose the cheapest one available, has holes and everything. I simply just consistently test the temp when waxing, and keep it moving. The other side of the board should feel warm to the touch, but never hot. Find the sweet spot on the iron, bust out the wax, scrape, buff, shred!


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## JohnnyKruick (Aug 30, 2017)

Lespaul4542 said:


> Hertel Super Hot Sauce wax, it is cheap and it is amazing! I honestly just do everything as cheap as possible, but be careful and smart, and it totally works. I couldn't get myself to buy a 90 dollar iron or kit. So I got Hertel wax, scotch bright pad, some nylon brush (strong bristles), and believe it or not for a scraper... a smooth window scraper that you would use on a car! The handle is amazing, and it covers great surface area. And for an iron, I went to walmart and chose the cheapest one available, has holes and everything. I simply just consistently test the temp when waxing, and keep it moving. The other side of the board should feel warm to the touch, but never hot. Find the sweet spot on the iron, bust out the wax, scrape, buff, shred!


How long have you been using Hertel Super HotSauce for? I have been considering getting some but I'm not too sure if it's better than Bluebird or not. Any thoughts?


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## coloradodirtbag (Feb 9, 2017)

What do you guys recommend for cleaning the base prior to waxing? Am I okay with just a wet/dry paper towel or do I have to buy this fancy shit from the shop?


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## basser (Sep 18, 2015)

coloradodirtbag said:


> What do you guys recommend for cleaning the base prior to waxing? Am I okay with just a wet/dry paper towel or do I have to buy this fancy shit from the shop?


Some people use base cleaner spray, but I've heard that can dry out your board. 

What I do is wipe it down with water and then dry it, so that externally its clean. Then I do a hot wax to get the dirt out.


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## Lespaul4542 (Aug 13, 2017)

JohnnyKruick said:


> Lespaul4542 said:
> 
> 
> > Hertel Super Hot Sauce wax, it is cheap and it is amazing! I honestly just do everything as cheap as possible, but be careful and smart, and it totally works. I couldn't get myself to buy a 90 dollar iron or kit. So I got Hertel wax, scotch bright pad, some nylon brush (strong bristles), and believe it or not for a scraper... a smooth window scraper that you would use on a car! The handle is amazing, and it covers great surface area. And for an iron, I went to walmart and chose the cheapest one available, has holes and everything. I simply just consistently test the temp when waxing, and keep it moving. The other side of the board should feel warm to the touch, but never hot. Find the sweet spot on the iron, bust out the wax, scrape, buff, shred!
> ...


I have never used bluebird, so I can't say anything for comparison. But I'm going on my 3rd season with hertel and don't plan to switch. Let's put it this way. A friend has been riding for years and always had shops wax his board, I told him I would do it for free. The next day we rode, and he was tripping out on how smooth it was. Typically my fresh wax job can be hard to strap in while standing, just because it's so slippery and smooth. And for 25 bucks you can get a 3/4 pound brick! Last like 4 seasons haha.


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## JohnnyKruick (Aug 30, 2017)

Lespaul4542 said:


> I have never used bluebird, so I can't say anything for comparison. But I'm going on my 3rd season with hertel and don't plan to switch. Let's put it this way. A friend has been riding for years and always had shops wax his board, I told him I would do it for free. The next day we rode, and he was tripping out on how smooth it was. Typically my fresh wax job can be hard to strap in while standing, just because it's so slippery and smooth. And for 25 bucks you can get a 3/4 pound brick! Last like 4 seasons haha.


That 3/4 lb brick is sitting in my cart at the moment, I think I'm gonna give it a try! I keep hearing really good things about it. Been using Bluebird and before that OBJ 4wd temp specific which worked just fine but if I can reduce down to 1 kind of wax for everything that'd be ideal. Thanks for the feedback!


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## DaveMcI (Aug 19, 2013)

+1hertel super hot sauce, I prefer eco waxes for health reasons, but I put some of that on every once in a while if I know there will be a lot of flats.


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## JohnnyKruick (Aug 30, 2017)

DaveMcI said:


> +1hertel super hot sauce, I prefer eco waxes for health reasons, but I put some of that on every once in a while if I know there will be a lot of flats.


Which wax(es) do you use that are eco-friendly and how well do they work? Never used one myself but I'm always up for eco-friendly products


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## Lespaul4542 (Aug 13, 2017)

JohnnyKruick said:


> Lespaul4542 said:
> 
> 
> > I have never used bluebird, so I can't say anything for comparison. But I'm going on my 3rd season with hertel and don't plan to switch. Let's put it this way. A friend has been riding for years and always had shops wax his board, I told him I would do it for free. The next day we rode, and he was tripping out on how smooth it was. Typically my fresh wax job can be hard to strap in while standing, just because it's so slippery and smooth. And for 25 bucks you can get a 3/4 pound brick! Last like 4 seasons haha.
> ...


You can't go wrong with it! That brick will last a long time if you don't waste wax during the process. If you feel like you don't have enough speed, it's that you left too much wax on, or your riding technique needs to improve. I usually don't have people passing me on groomers, typically I'm trying to slow down lol


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## DaveMcI (Aug 19, 2013)

Purl wax sells 1 lb of all temp for 30$ shipped.


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## JohnnyKruick (Aug 30, 2017)

Just ordered the 3/4 lb brick of Hertel Super HotSauce. In a month or (hopefully not longer) so I'll post an update of how I like this stuff compared to Bluebird and OBJ 4WD. Hope it lives up! Sounds like it will.
@DaveMcI have you used any waxes other than Purl to compare it with? 

I'm not having troubles with waxing or going fast just seeing what else is out there and possibly I'll find something fastER lol if you know how to wax well any wax should be pretty solid


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## Lespaul4542 (Aug 13, 2017)

JohnnyKruick said:


> Just ordered the 3/4 lb brick of Hertel Super HotSauce. In a month or (hopefully not longer) so I'll post an update of how I like this stuff compared to Bluebird and OBJ 4WD. Hope it lives up! Sounds like it will.
> 
> @DaveMcI have you used any waxes other than Purl to compare it with?
> 
> I'm not having troubles with waxing or going fast just seeing what else is out there and possibly I'll find something fastER lol if you know how to wax well any wax should be pretty solid


Haha, you should like it! It was one of the best reviewed I could find. Soon I've gotta do my resort board and splitboard. Waxing two at once sucks, scraping wax off gets killer!


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## Phedder (Sep 13, 2014)

Lespaul4542 said:


> Haha, you should like it! It was one of the best reviewed I could find. Soon I've gotta do my resort board and splitboard. Waxing two at once sucks, scraping wax off gets killer!


Crayon method means very little scraping. I usually end up only needing 2 full passes with the scraper and then brush and good to go, 2 minutes at most.


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## Lespaul4542 (Aug 13, 2017)

Phedder said:


> Crayon method means very little scraping. I usually end up only needing 2 full passes with the scraper and then brush and good to go, 2 minutes at most.


Haha, that would be much easier. I do a full hot wax and all. It usually take me about 45 min to an hour per board. But they are like butter smooth and fast as can be after.


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## Phedder (Sep 13, 2014)

Lespaul4542 said:


> Haha, that would be much easier. I do a full hot wax and all. It usually take me about 45 min to an hour per board. But they are like butter smooth and fast as can be after.


45 to an hour per board!

What I said above is after a hot wax. I meant crayon on the wax, iron it in, let sit for 5-10 min, then scrape and brush. If only doing 1 board that's 15-20 mins max, total. If I've got a few lined up I'd be confident of knocking out 10 in an hour and doing a quality job.


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## Lespaul4542 (Aug 13, 2017)

Phedder said:


> Crayon method means very little scraping. I usually end up only needing 2 full passes with the scraper and then brush and good to go, 2 minutes at most.





Phedder said:


> 45 to an hour per board!
> 
> What I said above is after a hot wax. I meant crayon on the wax, iron it in, let sit for 5-10 min, then scrape and brush. If only doing 1 board that's 15-20 mins max, total. If I've got a few lined up I'd be confident of knocking out 10 in an hour and doing a quality job.


hahaha, yeah I spend some time on it. That makes more sense! I hot drip it on, then make sure it covers everything all to the edges. Cool off, scrape, scotch pad it, scrape some more, clean edges, scotch pad again and make sure there are no thicker spots left if so scrape again. Then buff with brush, scotch pad, buff again. It's a huge process... definitely more needed on my split than my resort deck. Since any crap left can stick to the skins. I typically have a snowboard movie going as well, so maybe that distracts me during the cool off time and I wait a bit longer lol.


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## JohnnyKruick (Aug 30, 2017)

Lespaul4542 said:


> Haha, that would be much easier. I do a full hot wax and all. It usually take me about 45 min to an hour per board. But they are like butter smooth and fast as can be after.


Holy shit my man! ? I know everyone has their own little methods and time/effort they like to put into it but damn!!

The only time I remember taking an hour is when I get too stoned and forget that I have a freshly waxed board waiting to be scraped. 

Those make for fun scrambles in the morning lol


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## SkullAndXbones (Feb 24, 2014)

i use a burton iron. as for wax, as mentioned by others, i recommend hertel wax. i use their "hot sauce" wax and it's awesome.


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## Lespaul4542 (Aug 13, 2017)

JohnnyKruick said:


> Holy shit my man! ? I know everyone has their own little methods and time/effort they like to put into it but damn!!
> 
> The only time I remember taking an hour is when I get too stoned and forget that I have a freshly waxed board waiting to be scraped.
> 
> Those make for fun scrambles in the morning lol



hahaha, that would make for an interesting morning! Now that I think about it, I do usually let it sit and cool off for like 20 minutes or so. So that does add the time up. Partially because I don't want to go to the scrape step! Otherwise the actually work period is about 20-40. Which in comparison is still long!


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

Lespaul4542 said:


> hahaha, Otherwise the actually work period is about 20-40. Which in comparison is still long!


Just have Julia do it


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## JohnnyKruick (Aug 30, 2017)

wrathfuldeity said:


> Just have Julia do it


See now with Julia this would turn into an hour long event... 

maybe even 2! :wavetowel2:

I would say she could stay the night but the deed would already be done and I'm not missing out on my pow day!


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