# hightback question



## beggionahorseho (Oct 27, 2008)

this is my second season and I got good board now but im not sure how my highback are suppost to be leaning foward so you knees are bent what would you recomend? these are burton custom bindings just I guess it´s personal perference but where would be a good place to start?


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## Cr0_Reps_Smit (Jun 27, 2009)

i would start at zero forward lean and never think about it again. unless you are riding pipe alot, need extra leverage for your heel turns, for just cant bend your knees on your own for some reason you really dont need to worry about it too much.


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## beggionahorseho (Oct 27, 2008)

Cr0_Reps_Smit said:


> i would start at zero forward lean and never think about it again. unless you are riding pipe alot, need extra leverage for your heel turns, for just cant bend your knees on your own for some reason you really dont need to worry about it too much.


oh okay tanks


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## DiamondCarver (Jan 27, 2009)

Does more forward lean help with heel lift at all?


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## sedition (Feb 8, 2007)

Messing with your highbacks is amazing. It can totally change the way your board handles. The short answer is just screw around with them until you figure out you like the best. That said, you will be amazed at how more responsive you have with them leaning forward a bit. This can be a huge asset for carving, but can also be a drawback for pulling out sketch landings when doing freestyle stuff. Again, just toy around with it and see what works best for you.


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## xxfinnellxx (Aug 30, 2009)

beggionahorseho said:


> this is my second season and I got good board now but im not sure how my highback are suppost to be leaning foward so you knees are bent what would you recomend? these are burton custom bindings just I guess it´s personal perference but where would be a good place to start?


actually, what i would consider doing (which im relaying from my coach (who has medaled in the x games)) for the... (im actually going to go a little over kill here)

*Angle*= Try duckfoot of -6/+6 and then -15/+15 and then change how you ride from those angles. You do those angles because it establishes a sence on how your angles feel. For park junkies, smaller angles= more spin control, larger angles= looser control for boxes/rails

*Highback Lean*
with the duckfoot, put the high back lean slightly harsh (on the customs id put it to "F3". my brother has a pair of those, and i have some burton p1.1's of my own). The reason for this is that it will make your knees bend and project in opposite angles (if you have your stance duckfoot'd) so that the first few times you ride, you develop a strong posture at all times and it builds your hamstring and calf muscles to accompany this stance on their own. It will suck because you will get pretty bad calf and hamstring burn. But thats what builds the muscle. After a few days at the hill, lower that forward lean down to "F2" or "F1" (Whichever you prefer)

*Stance width*
Narrower stances will make your board feel much heavyer than it should, always have a COMFORTABLY WIDE STANCE, not a "maxed out" wide stance. have it an inch or two wider than your shoulders, you should like kinda like a cow-boy from those old western films. (if that helps portray an image). Wider is better for very smooth controlled riding, narrower (but still somewhat wide) is better for puting a little speed into the transition of your turns because your legs dont have to move their joints as much to get the board edge over edge

*Highback angle* (the rotation of your highback)
just have it appear quite parallel to your heel edge, general rule...it adds more response apparently, i just follow it as a general rule though

*Binding position*
centered, the toe should be no further or away from the edge as the heel, adjust this with your boot in place

*Binding setback*
If you want to ALWAYS ride powder or rarely ride switch, then shift your bindings back an insert or two. If your interested in park, then keep the bindings equally separate from the very middle of the board.

*Strap Adjustment*
when fully clamped down (on your boot with your foot in it), the foam/gel straps should have a near equal distance from the baseplate of the binding (where they connect)on both sides. Meaning that you should not be able to ratchet the binding down to the very end of the toothed strap (unless your boot is too small for your binding, then you have a slight problem).


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## beggionahorseho (Oct 27, 2008)

xxfinnellxx said:


> actually, what i would consider doing (which im relaying from my coach (who has medaled in the x games)) for the... (im actually going to go a little over kill here)
> 
> thaks huuge held will folow your instuctions I have them 15/15 angle and ride both pow and park and groomers thanks


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## jaaxnikols (Nov 17, 2009)

*.*

Burton bindings set at Zero, already have more forward lean angle than most other companies bindings. So the Zero setting should be enough unless your riding pipe, or doing some hard carving while going really fast.


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## Grizz (Nov 10, 2008)

If you want a starting point, put your boot in the binding and match the forward lean angle of your highback to the amount of forward lean in your boot.

I agree with Sedition. Experiment and find out what works best for your riding style.


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