# Binding Screws



## Deviant

What kind of bindings are they?


----------



## OzSnow

sorry for jumping in

im in the same boat hear, i got Salomon Relay bindings, and dont have the screws, is it universal?

Thanks


----------



## fattrav

Well, to put binding screws into a catergory, youre looking at "dome head Phillips counter sunk machine screws", but with a slit cut in them and a plastic/nylon locking inserted. I've looked for these in the various fixture parts books that we've got at work to no avail. You'll not find something so specialized at your local hardware store and really, you're better off to get them from your local snow shop, or online. Yes, they are pricey, but that's what you pay for something so specialized..

You could just put in normal countersunk machine screws (m6 dia x about 12mm length from memory), but the flat top screws screw slots strip easier (as there is not enough meat compare to the dome head to act against the torsional forces of the screw driver), especially if you've used a dab of loctite to lock them in. Steer clear of anything with a galvanized coating as well.


----------



## TofuSama

Binding screws are a standard M6 size/thread. Far as I know they should run around 15mm long, but It may differ based on you specific binding. You don't need the nylon locking, none of mine have ever had them, though you may want some blue loctite. Only the blue stuff though.


----------



## CheeseForSteeze

As an aside, does anyone know of any binding mounting hardware available with a Torx or spline drive? These drive heads seem preferable to Phillips since they are nearly impervious to cam-out whereas Phillips are designed to cam-out once the bolt is driven snug tight. This would be very convienent!


----------



## TofuSama

CheeseForSteeze said:


> As an aside, does anyone know of any binding mounting hardware available with a Torx or spline drive? These drive heads seem preferable to Phillips since they are nearly impervious to cam-out whereas Phillips are designed to cam-out once the bolt is driven snug tight. This would be very convienent!


If you search around online or at local fastener/bolt stores, It may be possible to find some torx bolts. I wouldn't bet on finding any spline ones though.


----------



## CheeseForSteeze

I don't think the hardware store is going to have M6 oval head bolts non-tapered that small.

edit: I just check a bunch of typical online suppliers including Grainger and McMaster-Carr and just about all countersunk metric machine screws (flat or oval) are Phillips drive. Too bad, it'd be really nice to have a beefier drive.


----------



## TofuSama

CheeseForSteeze said:


> I don't think the hardware store is going to have M6 oval head bolts non-tapered that small.
> 
> edit: I just check a bunch of typical online suppliers including Grainger and McMaster-Carr and just about all countersunk metric machine screws (flat or oval) are Phillips drive. Too bad, it'd be really nice to have a beefier drive.


Not so much hardware store as fastener stores. In Edmonton, where I live, there's a store called Edmonton Nut and Bolt. There are a few similar ones in the city as well.


----------



## GreatScott

CheeseForSteeze said:


> Too bad, it'd be really nice to have a beefier drive.


I'm confused as to why you want a beefier drive. Torque those screws too much and you'll be looking for inserts to repair your board.



And this looks like a decent price for fasteners:

http://tognar.com/binding_tools_boot_canting_glue_ski_snowboard.html#screws


----------



## P.Swayze

Mounting Hardware | C3-Worldwide Store

Screws + Washers $10.


----------



## CheeseForSteeze

It's not for tightening them, it's for loosening them. If you set them snug tight where they are supposed to be and use 242 blue non-permanent thread locking compound, they can be an absolute bitch to get loose which is exactly how you want them; not permanently fastened but no chance of them loosening even after stomping landing after landing on hardpack.

I've had bindings loosen up enough in the past even after setting them the night before where the disc teeth will actually slip and the angle will change and I'll be wondering why I feel like I'm all of a sudden riding a directional stance switch. Nothing pisses me off more than having stop in the middle of the trail, take off my gloves, fumble with my pocket tool and waste time fixing it. The 242 really fixes this but it comes with the fault as mentioned above.

I usually don't have problems but every once it a while, one of the four will be so snug I feel like I am going to rupture my olecranon even using my jumbo #3 Wera Lasertip anti-camout driver because I'm bearing down so hard to prevent stripping.


----------



## GreatScott

CheeseForSteeze said:


> I feel like I am going to rupture my olecranon


Well, don't go rupturing that.


















(Now that is a quality second post, lol.)


----------

