# Waxing Tools



## Powhunter (May 10, 2015)

Dude... Waaaaay overthinking it.

Iron
Wax
Scraper
Scott brite pad for buffing
Brush (get a brass, nylon, and horsehair if you really want to go all out, but a nylon only works fine)

I discourage messing with your edges as a beginner, going to do more damage than good in most cases. The heat gun isn't needed at all, the iron can handle that. Many people discourage base cleaners, just hot scrape and it effectively does the same thing.


----------



## DaveMcI (Aug 19, 2013)

Anything but base cleaner. It sucks the speed right out


----------



## SnowDogWax (Nov 8, 2013)

DaveMcI said:


> Anything but base cleaner. It sucks the speed right out



^^^^
+++1


clean by hot waxing:embarrased1:






:mob:


----------



## emt.elikahan (Mar 12, 2014)

SnowDogWax said:


> ^^^^
> +++1
> 
> 
> ...





Powhunter said:


> Dude... Waaaaay overthinking it.
> 
> just hot scrape and it effectively does the same thing.



Non-experienced tuner... So you guys are saying.. 
Hot wax + scrape = clean base...
And then hot wax and scrape again?? 
Or just the one time?? :eyetwitch2: :embarrased1:


----------



## Powhunter (May 10, 2015)

To hot scrape, just wax like normal, but immediately after ironing the wax in, scrap while still warm.
Edit - then just scrape like normal.


----------



## emt.elikahan (Mar 12, 2014)

Powhunter said:


> To hot scrape, just wax like normal, but immediately after ironing the wax in, scrap while still warm.


Ok, and then wax again...?
Thanks (Sorry for thread jack-ish..)


----------



## Oldman (Mar 7, 2012)

Powhunter said:


> Dude... Waaaaay overthinking it.
> 
> Iron
> Wax
> ...


Powhunter has it bang on. The five items he has listed are all you need for a great wax.

Start with waxing, just to get comfortable working on and around a board. If you want to get into edge maintenance, you will need to do some reading on edge angle and base edge bevel. You need to know what angles your board has and purchase the right guides, ( edge guide and base base guide, two different tools that are not interchangeable) You will need a set of stones as well, but all this is down the road. Get comfortable with the waxing first.

BTW, one hot scrape should be enough to get most boards clean. Then apply your wax of the day depending on conditions or go with a All temp and enjoy your ride.

Don't overthink this stuff. Most of us who do our own waxing can do a board in under 30 minutes. Of that 30 minutes, we spend most of it waiting for the board and wax to cool. This is a one beer activity. YMMV ccasion14:


----------



## Jollybored (Nov 7, 2011)

Well yeah... You've just scraped the wax off. Hot scrape is to clean.

Also you don't need a bench/clamps for waxing. I use a plastic chair and just sit the bindings between the arms. Others may use milk crates etc, what ever works and holds your board.


----------



## DevilWithin (Sep 16, 2013)

By the way, a great place to get snowboarding tuning gear is Tognar Toolworks: Ski Wax, Snowboard Wax, Tuning & Maintenance Tools, Ski Repair Supplies And Do-It-Yourself Info Providing Top Products And Excellent Customer Service For Over 25 Years!

It isn't necessary, but you can buy a softer / warmer temp wax specifically for hot sraping. Something like this works well: Toko NF Hot Box and Cleaning Wax


----------



## Alpine Duke (Jun 21, 2015)

Snowdog is not posting his info.....ask him for some more specifics for an "all in one" setup.


----------



## Zolemite (Dec 13, 2012)

I have all on your list (Burton Vices). Works well if you can float the dough. I also have 3 different temp waxes. I wax after every other time out, but only get out one or two times a week.


----------



## SkullAndXbones (Feb 24, 2014)

all you need is an iron, wax, a nylon brush, and a scraper. forget a base cleaner and do hot scrapes. they're easy. wax your board and scrape it immediately. then wait for your board to cool again and then wax it for real. wait for the wax to cool (about 30 minutes or so) and then scrape off the wax and then use the brush.


----------



## Mystery2many (Aug 14, 2013)

SkullAndXbones said:


> wait for the wax to cool (about 30 minutes or so) and then scrape off the wax and then use the brush.


I set my boards outside (in the winter) and within 3-4 mins its cold and ready.


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

Thanks for all the responses everyone.

I figured I was going overboard, and it was really starting to add up cost wise. Ha. 

So, no base cleaner? Every video I watched they were using some sort of cleaner and scotch pad before waxing to remove "impurities" like diesel, sap, etc. 

This is the first time I'm coming across a preliminary quick, "hot wax" to clean the board before the actual waxing. This is better for the board than going over the base with a cleaner? 

Also, I've seen mixed reviews of waxing with bindings off and with bindings on. From what I've read, waxing with your bindings on all the time can start making the screw plates come through the base. I don't really believe this, so would like some clarity. To me, it seems like unscrewing and screwing the bindings all the time would impact the screw plates more. Can anyone shed some light on this?


----------



## Mystery2many (Aug 14, 2013)

I wax my boards with bindings on around twice a week and have no problems. But if you're worried about it, just loosen the screws a bit to relieve the tension/pressure.


----------



## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

just an old iron and wax...that is it

...and being a cheap sob...I use canning parafin...only cost $5 a pound and last several seasons.

use the crayon method...you won't even have to scrape


----------



## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

A regular plastic folding table may not work with the vises 

See this video: he's long winded, but will tell you why he's doing things 
http://youtu.be/0F0ZDkxALLg


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

Mystery2many said:


> I wax my boards with bindings on around twice a week and have no problems. But if you're worried about it, just loosen the screws a bit to relieve the tension/pressure.


if you're doing it twice a week with no issues, then i won't worry about it. I will probably wax once a week at most. Thanks dude!




tanscrazydaisy said:


> A regular plastic folding table may not work with the vises
> 
> See this video: he's long winded, but will tell you why he's doing things
> http://youtu.be/0F0ZDkxALLg


thanks man. i'll scope that vid!


----------



## Nocturnal7x (Mar 6, 2015)

You need a few things.

1. Old iron
2. Brick of wax
3. Scraper
4. Brush (one is fine)
5. And office chair with arms to rest your board on (put a sheet or towel over it so you don't get wax on it)

I wax before I got out every time 

+ What everyone else said


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

Nocturnal7x said:


> You need a few things.
> 
> 1. Old iron
> 2. Brick of wax
> ...


awesome. 

i just need ideas for a table in my basement. i don't have anything currently that i can use to prop my board up. that's the missing link for me right now, otherwise i have everything narrowed down. 

suggestions?


----------



## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

couple of milk crates

old chairs

2 saw horses


----------



## larrytbull (Oct 30, 2013)

wrathfuldeity said:


> 2 saw horses


saw horses work great, the time you need the vise is to do edging. as you can hold board sideways with very little wiggle


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

wrathfuldeity said:


> couple of milk crates
> 
> old chairs
> 
> 2 saw horses


i wish i lived in the 1930s to acquire such things. haha.

hence why i was just going to purchase some sort of cheap table and get the vices, but i could see how my old-fashioned elbow grease might be too much for a cheap table!


----------



## Max Agro (Jan 3, 2015)

Everyone has pretty much said it already but here's my take...

FWIW I have similar vices but they're made by Kuu and cheaper. I also have the Racewax brush kit. The brass brush is great for cleaning and the nylon for final prep after scraping. I don't use the horsehair much but you can if your anal about getting the best finish.

Avoid base cleaners as had been said already. Always hot scrape and you can never wax too much ... just make sure that after you wax you scrape and brush off all of the wax. The idea is to get the wax in the pores of the base not leave it on the base.

Its nice to have a waxing iron because it keeps a more constant temp but not necessary - any old iron will work. Hot scrape with soft wax (warm temp) and work up to harder (cold temp).

Edge tuning takes a bit of learning and practice but is well worth it. I keep my edges super sharp and never worry about whatever conditions I hit. I don't even detune the ends as I find it easier to control butters at high speed on edge. Not everyone likes this though.

I have one degree base bevel on all my boards and an 88 degree side on most of them except one board which I have 87 degree for max hold on ice... similar to downhill racers. 

I use a toko medium cut file (sparingly) on the side edges but most times just use diamond stones - best ones are moonflex. I use a 100, 200, 400, 600 progression. I have a 1200 but really its only needed if your racing. Remember to never screw around with your base bevel.. once its gone you have to have a board grind to restore the angle. I only use a 400 stone to remove any big gouges and only take off the high part. Oh yeah you'll need a sidewall cutter to make sure you get a constant line too but that's probably tmi.


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

Max Agro said:


> Everyone has pretty much said it already but here's my take...
> 
> FWIW I have similar vices but they're made by Kuu and cheaper. I also have the Racewax brush kit. The brass brush is great for cleaning and the nylon for final prep after scraping. I don't use the horsehair much but you can if your anal about getting the best finish.
> 
> ...


thanks man! 

what do you use with your vices? i'm running into the issue with i have nothing to hold my board, so I need to get some sort of table. Even if I got the vices, I have nothing to clamp the vices to.


----------



## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

For $60 you can find the Burton Tuning Vises. You can do without, all you need is some way to hold the thing steady with a reasonable amount of force. Heck, in a jam you can just hold it by hand, though it is a bit of a pain. It's not rocket science.

My old vise was made out of drill press vises from harbor freight for like 10 bucks and some wood made into an adapter.

I'm just at the age now that I tend to say fuck it and buy the right tool for the job to save just that little bit of time and frustration, and I do mean a little.


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

f00bar said:


> For $60 you can find the Burton Tuning Vises. You can do without, all you need is some way to hold the thing steady with a reasonable amount of force. Heck, in a jam you can just hold it by hand, though it is a bit of a pain. It's not rocket science.
> 
> My old vise was made out of drill press vises from harbor freight for like 10 bucks and some wood made into an adapter.
> 
> I'm just at the age now that I tend to say fuck it and buy the right tool for the job to save just that little bit of time and frustration, and I do mean a little.


I'm all for the vices and everything that has been listed in this thread. just need a recommendation on something to clamp the vices to. I'm willing to purchase a table or something of that nature, so at this point I'm just wondering if anyone has a recommendation on what I could get to clamp the vices to. I picked out a table in my first post, but some were saying that it might not withstand the force I'll be using when scraping.


----------



## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

Where are you going to be doing this? The vises will clamp on just about any table or work bench as long as there is about 3-6" of overhang.

I currently have mine on an old computer desk. Now there are some things here people will contest, and i actually stopped listening pretty early on, but its really this easy for the most part :jumping1:






find a real video to go by, btw! this one is fun though


----------



## Max Agro (Jan 3, 2015)

Matty_B_Bop said:


> thanks man!
> 
> what do you use with your vices? i'm running into the issue with i have nothing to hold my board, so I need to get some sort of table. Even if I got the vices, I have nothing to clamp the vices to.


I use an old underframe for a wood dining room table but I'm moving into a storage area for my tuneups where I have built an extension onto some shelves. Really with the vices all you need are two 2x4s about 4 feet apart that you can bolt them onto that in turn are secured to something.


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

f00bar said:


> Where are you going to be doing this? The vises will clamp on just about any table or work bench as long as there is about 3-6" of overhang.
> 
> I currently have mine on an old computer desk. Now there are some things here people will contest, and i actually stopped listening pretty early on, but its really this easy for the most part :jumping1:
> 
> ...


haha, nice. i will be doing this in my basement. i have a work bench in my garage, but it'd be too cold to do it in there during the winter. 

I could get that Swix waxing table, but it's $135. However, with that I could forge the vices.


----------



## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

admittedly, I'm old school...:blahblah::blahblah::blahblah:

fwiw...get tools that serve several purposes...instead of a specialized tool for 1 job.

a work bench with vice...can do alot more beyond a cheap sb vice

a couple saw horses can do alot more than just lay your board on

a few clamps are priceless for all kinds of projects

a couple of good files and stones can sharpen alot more than sb edges

problem is that if you buy into getting every damm tool...you will have a shit ton of tools and each one for a specific purpose...and then you won't have room for the important toys


----------



## Max Agro (Jan 3, 2015)

Matty_B_Bop said:


> haha, nice. i will be doing this in my basement. i have a work bench in my garage, but it'd be too cold to do it in there during the winter.
> 
> I could get that Swix waxing table, but it's $135. However, with that I could forge the vices.


Build a bench out of 2x4s - you can probably get discards (or cut ones less than 6 feet) at the lumber yard for cheap. Prolly build the bench for under $50. 

You prolly need 8 - 2x4s and a bag of nails. It's in your basement - who gives a shit what it looks like.

Spend your money on good tools - not the table.


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

Max Agro said:


> Build a bench out of 2x4s - you can probably get discards (or cut ones less than 6 feet) at the lumber yard for cheap. Prolly build the bench for under $50.
> 
> You prolly need 8 - 2x4s and a bag of nails. It's in your basement - who gives a shit what it looks like.



Agreed. I might end up going this route. it doesn't have to look pretty, just want it to get the job done.


----------



## Snow Hound (Jul 21, 2012)

I use one of these, in fact an even cheaper no brand version. Bought originally for DIY.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DECKER-Workmate-Sawhorse-and-Vise-WM125/100671605/


----------



## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

Matty_B_Bop said:


> Agreed. I might end up going this route. it doesn't have to look pretty, just want it to get the job done.


My bench is just made out of second hand solid timber doors!!!!! 

Screwed them onto metal shelving system!!!!!

Cheap, super sturdy, movable, perfect size!!!!!


----------



## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

if you got open stud walls in the basement...just nail/screw up 2 brackets with 2x4...done...use clamps to set board on edge. And if wanted get an old hollow core closet door to lay on top...boom a bench...probably can do it with scraps or less than $10 and get a couple of clamps

or get a harbor freight workbench for like $120 and use a 20% coupon

Wood Workbench - 60" Wood Workbench w/ 4 Drawers

if you get one...when you put it togather...also use some glue ...like titebond or gorrilla...it will be solid enough for most home projects


----------



## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

Which mtn do you have a seasons pass for?

Do you burn money in big ritualistic bonfires?

K, you need 2 OBJECTS to put under your board.
One oblect won't work, cause it'll teeter totter.
So 2 of any fuckin' things you see around the house.
If you come back here & say you can't find 2 fuckin' objects to stick under your snowboard?
You are so fuckin' fired. 


Most of the time I just throw a pair of boots under it. One under each end
Ta-Muther-fuckin'-da!:hairy:

You need a $2 iron from a thrift store, or look on Craigslist there's prolly one for free

You need something flat with an edge to scrape.
anything that's flat with an edge, glass, plastic, steel, anything will work, anything.
The more you scrape off, the faster it is going to be gone off your board, when you ride it. FACT

Lastly Wax, that's a tough one to get around you might actually have to buy that.

Now go & buy yourself a seasons pass somewhere & learn how to shred that fuckin; thing.

Good day Sir.


TT


----------



## speedjason (May 2, 2013)

Way overkill. If you wanna get fancy, get a waxing iron for $50. I just throw mine on the kitchen counter and go to to town. Scraper to scrap it off. Then use green scotch pad to polish it up.
I would get a bottle of base clear if the snow gets dirty at your resort.


----------



## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

If you're going to put a lot of money to get into snowboarding (or skiing), from equipment to clothing, to a season pass (or just lift tickets), you can afford to buy a basic iron for waxing (you can spend $35, shipped).
http://www.amazon.com/Dakine-110V-A...XWW6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1444170363&sr=8-7

If you cannot afford $35 for an iron, you probably cannot afford that season ticket or that lift pass.

I've seen some shops use a 2x4 bench with some carpet on the "uprights" so the cut edge of the 2x4 doesn't scratch the top sheet.


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

Alright, found the table. Was thinking about making one, then I stumbled upon this. Reviews are good, value is good, collapsable and can work with the snowboard vices.


----------



## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> If you're going to put a lot of money to get into snowboarding (or skiing), from equipment to clothing, to a season pass (or just lift tickets), you can afford to buy a basic iron for waxing (you can spend $35, shipped).
> http://www.amazon.com/Dakine-110V-A...XWW6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1444170363&sr=8-7
> 
> If you cannot afford $35 for an iron, you probably cannot afford that season ticket or that lift pass.
> ...


Kid, you are wasting way to much money.

The carpet over the 2x4's is the best way, if you absolutely have to spend money.

Look on Craigslist, find a table for free. While your there find a couple electric heaters for free for your garage. 

Seriously if don't have a seasons pass?

And your buyin' all this shit, you are retarded


TT


This shit is all over the fuckin' place out there
FREE FURNITURE


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

timmytard said:


> Kid, you are wasting way to much money.
> 
> The carpet over the 2x4's is the best way, if you absolutely have to spend money.
> 
> ...


Haha, I appreciate the advice man. 

It's all good, as this bench will be used for other things as well. Besides, it's not super expensive. 

I also have a season pass for this season, so I plan on waxing my board once a week. 

Again, I appreciate the advice. But searching for the stuff, having to go pick it up (already built), etc is more of a hassle than just spending $60 on a workbench I can assemble in a couple minutes. 

Lastly, I work so I can afford this stuff. I don't spend my money on much else as snowboarding is my main hobby these days. You're talking to a guy that doesn't even spend money on alcohol. Haha.


----------



## emt.elikahan (Mar 12, 2014)

Matty_B_Bop said:


> Lastly, I work so I can afford this stuff.


:rofl4: maybe it's just the hour, but that gave me a good laugh


----------



## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

Matty_B_Bop said:


> Haha, I appreciate the advice man.
> 
> It's all good, as this bench will be used for other things as well. Besides, it's not super expensive.
> 
> ...


Ah, ok. Not a drinker myself anymore.
That right there prolly saves you $5k-$10k a year 
Unless you're in the states maybe $3k


TT


----------



## SkullAndXbones (Feb 24, 2014)

last year i used 2 folding chairs, put a 5 gallon bucket on each chair, put a towel over each bucket, and that was my work bench for waxing lol.


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

timmytard said:


> Ah, ok. Not a drinker myself anymore.
> That right there prolly saves you $5k-$10k a year
> Unless you're in the states maybe $3k
> 
> ...


was hoping I would have bumped into you at Whistler last year. Would have been fun to do some backcountry runs!



SkullAndXbones said:


> last year i used 2 folding chairs, put a 5 gallon bucket on each chair, put a towel over each bucket, and that was my work bench for waxing lol.


haha. loving the creativity in here. how were you able to scrape it? wouldn't the board rock back and forth on the buckets?


----------



## SkullAndXbones (Feb 24, 2014)

it was a little unstable but i made it work lol


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

SkullAndXbones said:


> it was a little unstable but i made it work lol



lmao. that's exactly what I don't want. I'd be raging. haha


----------



## speedjason (May 2, 2013)

I actually found the best place to scrap wax is a big cardboard box. The wax does not go everywhere.


----------



## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

I still haven't shop vacd last years wax waste. Luckily its in the far corner of me basement that only gets used for waxing.

Oh, also, any reason not to use the last scrapings left overs for a hot scrape next time around? It's fresh wax, just scraped off


----------



## rpadc (Mar 10, 2014)

timmytard said:


> Kid, you are wasting way to much money.


OP clearly gets his kicks on assembling all of the best items for any particular task, with cost not being a factor. The acquisition of the things is as enjoyable as the job itself. I personally enjoy meeting an objective the cheapest and most creative way possible. _À chacun son goût_.


----------



## speedjason (May 2, 2013)

f00bar said:


> I still haven't shop vacd last years wax waste. Luckily its in the far corner of me basement that only gets used for waxing.
> 
> Oh, also, any reason not to use the last scrapings left overs for a hot scrape next time around? It's fresh wax, just scraped off


Shouldn't be a problem.
Or you can just use less wax, less waste.


----------



## taco tuesday (Jul 26, 2014)

timmytard said:


> Which mtn do you have a seasons pass for?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's some good stuff right there. Last year used the two large garbage cans in my garage. Worked pretty good for waxing because they are about waist high. It was a bit unstable for scraping but it worked and at least some of the wax ended up straight in the garbage. Couldn't find my scraper one day so I tried a few different things. Old cd cases don't make the best wax scraper fyi.


----------



## taco tuesday (Jul 26, 2014)

This year I picked up some burton vises on sale for 30 bucks. I guess I'll have to clear of my "work" bench(it is more like a stuff accumulator).


----------



## F1EA (Oct 25, 2013)

Matty Matty Matty....... you may have taken it too far this time. 

Any table/bench. -Free
Any iron. (no holes in the bottom better.... but anything works). -$10
Wax. All temp. -$15
Scraper. -$7
Brillo pad and cheap nylon brush. -$3

Someone (not you) to clean the scraped wax mess.... Priceless.


----------



## supham (Feb 14, 2011)

F1EA said:


> Matty Matty Matty....... you may have taken it too far this time.
> 
> Any table/bench. -Free
> Any iron. (no holes in the bottom better.... but anything works). -$10
> ...


I like your plan. It appears you gather your equipment and get paid $45


----------



## emt.elikahan (Mar 12, 2014)

supham said:


> I like your plan. It appears you gather your equipment and get paid $45


Haha, I was thinking the same thing. ($35..)


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

Okay, an update of my "waxing station." Thanks all for the input and guidance, as what I learned here factored into what I purchased. 

Although everyone told me just to get some folding chairs and buckets to hold my board, I went with the work bench. It works great, sturdy, collapsable and will serve many other purposes. 

Now, still waiting for a few things to come in the mail, like the vices, brushes and wax itself. I was able to get everything set up in the meantime whilst listening to '90s punk, and the stoke is off the charts. Can't wait to slay my 500 ft vertical hill here in the Midwest. 

Sorry for the dark photo. Took a pano without flash. If anyone has any other suggestions, let me know!


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

F1EA said:


> Matty Matty Matty....... you may have taken it too far this time.
> 
> Any table/bench. -Free
> Any iron. (no holes in the bottom better.... but anything works). -$10
> ...


Haha, I appreciate it man. My main reason for getting the other stuff is to make more of a hobby out of it rather than just something you need to do for a good ride. I will also use the work bench for other things.


----------



## F1EA (Oct 25, 2013)

Matty_B_Bop said:


> '90s punk


----------



## rpadc (Mar 10, 2014)

I want to wax my own boards this season also, but I don't have any indoor space for it. I have a small shed but it houses lawn mower, bikes, gardening tools, etc.

I have an uncovered concrete patio.

I'm thinking I can wax out there but you can't wax when it gets cold, right? Also gotta figure out how to manage scraped wax waste. Maybe put down a tarp when scraping to collect it all.

:chin::icon_scratch:


----------



## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

rpadc said:


> I want to wax my own boards this season also, but I don't have any indoor space for it. I have a small shed but it houses lawn mower, bikes, gardening tools, etc.
> 
> I have an uncovered concrete patio.
> 
> ...


What makes you say you don't have room? You need about a 5' of counter/table top/chairs space. If you're worried about the mess its only as messy as you want it to be. It all shop vacs/sweeps up in about 30s and there's no reason you can't scrape it down outside once its cooled.


----------



## speedjason (May 2, 2013)

I find it funny people take waxing so seriously.
You can freaking scrape in snow if you want.


----------



## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

speedjason said:


> I find it funny people take waxing so seriously.
> You can freaking scrape in snow if you want.


It only gets real serious, and in a bad way, when your wife or mom comes home and sees you clamped onto and waxing on her $5000 dining room table.


----------



## rpadc (Mar 10, 2014)

f00bar said:


> What makes you say you don't have room? You need about a 5' of counter/table top/chairs space. If you're worried about the mess its only as messy as you want it to be. It all shop vacs/sweeps up in about 30s and there's no reason you can't scrape it down outside once its cooled.


Tiny kitchen, but that's the only part of the house not carpeted (other than bathroom).

Wax in the kitchen, scrape outside. That's workable. Just gotta figure out something sturdy to hold the board that'll fit in really tight kitchen space.



speedjason said:


> I find it funny people take waxing so seriously.
> You can freaking scrape in snow if you want.


I thought temperature mattered. Messiness is of course up to individual tolerance.


----------



## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

f00bar said:


> It only gets real serious, and in a bad way, when your wife or mom comes home and sees you clamped onto and waxing on her $5000 dining room table.


But that is the plan...instant dirtbag status...:facepalm1:


----------



## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

rpadc said:


> Tiny kitchen, but that's the only part of the house not carpeted (other than bathroom).
> 
> Wax in the kitchen, scrape outside. That's workable. Just gotta figure out something sturdy to hold the board that'll fit in really tight kitchen space.
> 
> ...


If you have any counter space/table with a lip the Burton Tuning Vice would work pretty well. Or go to dollar store and buy a paint drop cloth. Wax anywhere, even on your bed.

Don't over think it, you can do it with bare minimum just fine


----------



## Mystery2many (Aug 14, 2013)

When I went on cheap trips with buddies I'd bring my wax kit (iron,wax,scraper,brush). I'd have them hold it, wax our boards standing up in the middle of the hotel room, set the boards out in the cold to cool off, have another beer and go outside have them hold it again and scrape and brush. 

Its literally not a big deal. Its just wax. Be creative.


Now I don't even scrape anymore. I just drip minimum as possible, spread it evenly, let it cool outside and brush. And my board fucking rip. NO MESS!


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

rpadc said:


> Tiny kitchen, but that's the only part of the house not carpeted (other than bathroom).
> 
> Wax in the kitchen, scrape outside. That's workable. Just gotta figure out something sturdy to hold the board that'll fit in really tight kitchen space.
> 
> ...



do you happen to have a garage? 

if so, back in high school I would use two garbage cans and lay my board on those. it was only one garage spot, so I had to move my dad's car out anytime I wanted to do it. If not, you could use the same technique on your patio, it would just be colder. a tarp or 3rd garbage can to scrape the wax into would work also. 

like others have said, you don't need anything elaborate. for me, i just wanted something nice as it will be more of a hobby/pride thing. Plus, I will do my friend's boards, my boards, my gf's board, etc. I'll also let my friends come over and use my stuff. Since I'm planning on doing a lot of waxing, I wanted something nice to really enjoy it.


----------



## SoCalSoul (Nov 13, 2013)

Punch some holes in a wide flat box and zip tie it to the side of the tuning vice. That'll catch most of your wax. Shop vac the rest.


----------



## stickz (Feb 6, 2013)

I use the same plastic table, with two 5 gallon buckets. Bindings fit right in and locks the board in place. Buy some silverware drawer non slip shit at the dollar store. Glue in on the table under the 5 gallon buckets and they don't slip. Other than that look at green ice wax (all natural wax) and the brush kit your looking at. Get a 400 stone for the burrs


----------



## rpadc (Mar 10, 2014)

Matty_B_Bop said:


> Sorry for the dark photo. Took a pano without flash. If anyone has any other suggestions, let me know!


That's a big ass basement.


----------



## linvillegorge (Jul 6, 2009)

Wax, iron, scraper

That's it.

I use one of these for a scraper:










So much quicker than an actual snowboard scraper.


----------



## rpadc (Mar 10, 2014)

linvillegorge said:


> I use one of these for a scraper:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You don't gouge your base with that? I guess you use light strokes? Forgive my n00bity.


----------



## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

I like drywall knives/scrapers better. They seem a little more ergonomic and you can get them 18+", though I think a 10-12 is ideal.


----------



## linvillegorge (Jul 6, 2009)

No, you're not going to gouge your base with it unless you're a moron. Just keep the blade flat against the base and you're all good. Just a couple of passes with a good 4" putty knife and you're done scraping. To hell with having to grind away with one of those shitty plastic scrapers for half an hour.


----------



## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

linvillegorge said:


> No, you're not going to gouge your base with it unless you're a moron. Just keep the blade flat against the base and you're all good. Just a couple of passes with a good 4" putty knife and you're done scraping. To hell with having to grind away with one of those shitty plastic scrapers for half an hour.


I used to use a putty knife to scrape the plastic scraper clean then was like, wtf am I wasting the time for?


----------



## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

Dude,.. this cost me less than $40 and that's buying the sawhorse clamps and new 2x4's. If you got some scrap lumber available laying around,..?? Uber cheap!!








I had the lumber cut so It's a perfect height for me to apply good pressure for scraping without having to bend, stoop, kneel or squat! (…back injury!!) :dunno:

Prior to this,.. I propped the board on anything and waxed & scraped in the garage. Did it in the dead of winter in sub zero temps too! You really are WaaaaaY over thinking the whole process! You will figure that out for yourself tho after the first few times you do it!! Don't over heat the deck,… That's REALLY the only thing you need to worry about. And unless you're a moron,..? You aren't likely to do that either!!! Relax!

Any old iron, wax, scraper and a scrubby!! Dude,.. that's it.


The ONLY thing you really need to be afraid of is,... if your married or a kid living at home? DON'T get wax dripped onto, or scraping ground into wifey's or mom's carpet!!! She'll freakin' kill you!!! :laugh:


----------



## rpadc (Mar 10, 2014)

Just ordered a giant ass brick of wax and a scraper. Figured out what my waxing setup is going to look like. Shoutout to the backyard garbage bin rig. Will throw an old rug under the board for cushion against the bin lid.

Now I just have to decide whether to go with an old clothes iron or not. May cop a used legit tuning iron at marginal cost difference if eBay comes through. Won't buy one new.

WINTER IS COMING. PRAISE ULLR.

:snowboard4:


----------



## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

rpadc said:


> Just ordered a giant ass brick of wax and a scraper. Figured out what my waxing setup is going to look like. Shoutout to the backyard garbage bin rig. Will throw an old rug under the board for cushion against the bin lid.
> 
> Now I just have to decide whether to go with an old clothes iron or not. May cop a used legit tuning iron at marginal cost difference if eBay comes through. Won't buy one new.
> 
> ...



perfect...lift lid...bindings hold it in place and scrape wax right into the trash.


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

Alright, got the clamps in. Had to modify the bench a little bit, but it worked out nicely. Ends up being the perfect height for waxing also. Stoked. 

Now, I just need some art for the cement wall. Ha.


----------



## Alpine Duke (Jun 21, 2015)

rpadc said:


> WINTER IS COMING. PRAISE ULLR.


The God of bowhunting?


----------



## Alpine Duke (Jun 21, 2015)

Matty_B_Bop said:


> Alright, got the clamps in. Had to modify the bench a little bit, but it worked out nicely. Ends up being the perfect height for waxing also. Stoked.
> 
> Now, I just need some art for the cement wall. Ha.



You have 6 boards but just got into waxing?


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

Alpine Duke said:


> You have 6 boards but just got into waxing?


haha, correct. you should see the bases on some of the older decks - they look starved. 

i was very misinformed before joining this forum. waxing is going to be more of hobby now rather than just a necessity. 

also, the places I go to locally don't require properly tuned boards.


----------



## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

Matty_B_Bop said:


> haha, correct. you should see the bases on some of the older decks - they look starved.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



If you're a park person, you probably don't need a edge tune because it gets beaten up, especially on rails

Proper waxing helps you go faster for the bigger features


----------



## Max Agro (Jan 3, 2015)

Looks like a nice setup - you've got lots of room. Now you just need all your tools and your gtg. Don't forget the beer fridge.


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> If you're a park person, you probably don't need a edge tune because it gets beaten up, especially on rails
> 
> Proper waxing helps you go faster for the bigger features


yeah, not too worried about the edges. If anything, i'll work on those down the line. 



Max Agro said:


> Looks like a nice setup - you've got lots of room. Now you just need all your tools and your gtg. Don't forget the beer fridge.


thanks, dude! all the tools are ready to rock. 

i know brushes aren't super necessary, but if you were going to use them what order are you supposed to? 

Brass 
Nylon
Horsehair

Those are the 3 I have.


----------



## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

Before waxing:
Brass
Horsehair

After scraping 
Brass
Nylon
Horse hair (they say it reduces static)


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> Before waxing:
> Brass
> Horsehair
> 
> ...


awesome! thanks!

what's your take on a hot scrape? necessary to brush before waxing, or just do a hot scrape first?


----------



## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

If you need to clean your base, you hit scrape with cheap warm temp wax

Otherwise, prep the base by brushing, then wax 

I do use swix fiberlene to wipe the base prior to applying wax. Sounds pricey, yes, but it's been 2 seasons and I've barely used half a roll


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> If you need to clean your base, you hit scrape with cheap warm temp wax
> 
> Otherwise, prep the base by brushing, then wax
> 
> I do use swix fiberlene to wipe the base prior to applying wax. Sounds pricey, yes, but it's been 2 seasons and I've barely used half a roll


i got the hertel wax that everyone recommended. it's not expensive, and i have a huge brick of it. I'm cool with using that for a hot scrape. seems like the best way to get rid of the impurities in the base. then, i'll brush after the actual wax.


----------



## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

Caveat: I keep a small can of base cleaner handy.

It's for spot cleaning when I need to use a P-Tex candle for repairs


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> Caveat: I keep a small can of base cleaner handy.
> 
> It's for spot cleaning when I need to use a P-Tex candle for repairs


I have some simple green and a scotch-brite pad. will that do?


----------



## Max Agro (Jan 3, 2015)

Use warm temp wax for hot scrapes and for building the wax up in the sintered base pores. I always use yellow wax for hot scraping and only really do it a few times a year when the base gets dirty. If the base looks dry, I will wax first with yellow and put on another coat of temp specific after. You want to keep lots of wax in the pores of the base - you go faster and the base lasts much longer. Of course , final wax is always temp specific.

I brush the same progression as tancrazydaisy although I just use brass before waxing.

I usually sharpen/polish my edges with moonflex diamond stones every couple of days of riding or when the edges are damaged. I like my edges as sharp as possible all the time as I find it allows me to have way more control even for buttering. Although only do the side bevels generally since the base bevel will only increase with sharpening which is not good. You want to maintain the proper angle on the base - generally around 1 degree but that depends on the board.

I will touch up the base bevel with a 400 diamondstone if it is gouged but take off as little as possible. I only take off the raised ridges and wait until I get a board grind to straighten out the indents. 

This guy sagina1999 has some great vids on youtube on tuning - they're for skis but the techniques are transferable to boards.


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

Max Agro said:


> Use warm temp wax for hot scrapes and for building the wax up in the sintered base pores. I always use yellow wax for hot scraping and only really do it a few times a year when the base gets dirty. If the base looks dry, I will wax first with yellow and put on another coat of temp specific after. You want to keep lots of wax in the pores of the base - you go faster and the base lasts much longer. Of course , final wax is always temp specific.
> 
> I brush the same progression as tancrazydaisy although I just use brass before waxing.
> 
> ...


is yellow wax a brand, or something else? 

also, like i said, the edge maintenance is a bit over my head right now. i'm worried i'll do more harm than good.


----------



## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

Max Agro said:


> This guy sagina1999 has some great vids on youtube on tuning - they're for skis but the techniques are transferable to boards.


He's a proponent of solvent base cleaner (especially when you use Fluoro wax). Caveat is, (and he explains it) you have to follow up with lots of waxing afterwards to replace the wax that was removed due to the cleaner. That's a couple rounds of waxing, so you're not really saving time nor money

there are some Fluoro waxes that can be removed via hot scrape (Racewax.com is one of them).


----------



## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

Matty_B_Bop said:


> is yellow wax a brand, or something else?
> 
> also, like i said, the edge maintenance is a bit over my head right now. i'm worried i'll do more harm than good.


yellow wax, probably refers to how a brand classifies their wax vs temperature range. iirc, Toko & Swix warm temp wax is yellow.

Simple Green? Never tried it.


----------



## Max Agro (Jan 3, 2015)

Yellow wax is just warm temp wax. Most brands grade their wax with colours and yellow is always for warm temp. next is orange then green then blue in order from warm to cold temp.

With regard to the saginal1999 vids, he has some great tips on sharpening edges etc. and apparently the Swix Glide Wax cleaner he uses is supposed to be good and doesn't remove wax - just softens it - but I'm not into it anyway. I don't agree with using any solvent for base cleaning. but I only hot scrape my boards and never put solvent anywhere near them. 

Also a good set of vids if for the Toko world cup guy (tuned for a lot of champion skiers and boarders)
base bevels
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxOTdT55HNY#t=22
side edge angling
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNzve8w2S0E

Its pretty interesting stuff if you're into it. I use a one degree base bevel on all my boards and an 88 degree side angle for a total angle of 89 degrees except for one board that I use on ice which has a 87 degree side angle for a total angle of 88 degrees. That is the same angle most non-world cup racers use. It really grips the ice well. Its a bit harder to pull out of a carve but it's worth it if you ride any ice.

I also don't detune any of my edge from tip to tail. I used to detune from just in front of the contact points back to the tip and tail but I found that if you butter at high speed and get up on your tip or tail its better to have an edge on it so you have more control. That's not the norm but to each his own.


----------



## Max Agro (Jan 3, 2015)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> He's a proponent of solvent base cleaner (especially when you use Fluoro wax). Caveat is, (and he explains it) you have to follow up with lots of waxing afterwards to replace the wax that was removed due to the cleaner. That's a couple rounds of waxing, so you're not really saving time nor money
> 
> there are some Fluoro waxes that can be removed via hot scrape (Racewax.com is one of them).


You have to be very careful with fluoro waxes especially powders because when you heat them a by-product is fluoro gas which is definitely not good for you. There are a number of studies that discuss this issue.

Waxing skis may be hazardous to health - SFGate

If you want to hot wax with fluoros you need a respirator to be safe. I don't think it's worth the hassle if you're not racing.


----------



## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

Fluoro powder overlays is what you have to be concerned with. They require extremely high heat which can cause the decomposition into the gas that people are concerned about the respirator. 

Fluoro powder overlays that need corking, not a big deal

Waxes that have Fluoro in them, lower temperature is used to melt the wax

Then again, people that use petroleum base cleaners, shouldn't they wear respirators? You can get high off of the fumes


----------



## stickz (Feb 6, 2013)

Matty_B_Bop said:


> i got the hertel wax that everyone recommended. it's not expensive, and i have a huge brick of it. I'm cool with using that for a hot scrape. seems like the best way to get rid of the impurities in the base. then, i'll brush after the actual wax.


Zumies has an even cheaper base/hot scrape wax. 100g is like 7 bucks


----------



## stickz (Feb 6, 2013)

I bit the bullet today and ordered a bunch of waxing and edging equipment. All totaled around 300 bucks.


----------



## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

stickz said:


> I bit the bullet today and ordered a bunch of waxing and edging equipment. All totaled around 300 bucks.


can I come to your house and get waxed


----------



## stickz (Feb 6, 2013)

wrathfuldeity said:


> can I come to your house and get waxed


Sure cmon down, you can take dabs while I wax the board. I've already got my whole crew bringing me their boards. Within a few months it will all pay for itself. I charge them very little.


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

stickz said:


> Zumies has an even cheaper base/hot scrape wax. 100g is like 7 bucks


good to know! 

got a link?



stickz said:


> I bit the bullet today and ordered a bunch of waxing and edging equipment. All totaled around 300 bucks.


Sweet! Post up your setup when you get everything.


----------



## Efilnikufesin (Oct 8, 2011)

stickz said:


> I bit the bullet today and ordered a bunch of waxing and edging equipment. All totaled around 300 bucks.



I hope at least 250 of that was on beer.


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

Added some flair on the wall. Poster came from some boots I just got my gf, so I decided to hang it. Pics are just random ones I had laying around from snowboard trips I've taken. I'll keep adding more after each trip. 















I've waxed 4 boards so far. Hot scraped and then waxed. 

The last board I did, the BSOD, was the most difficult because the base is the most beat up. I'm having trouble getting the board really smooth after brushing, especially the tip and tail. The base has scratches so I'm not expecting to be smooth like that, but my previous boards are very easy to run the back of my hand over. The BSOD doesn't have that same glide, even after extensive brushing. Any tips?


----------



## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

Matty_B_Bop said:


> Added some flair on the wall. Poster came from some boots I just got my gf, so I decided to hang it. Pics are just random ones I had laying around from snowboard trips I've taken. I'll keep adding more after each trip.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ptex, blow-torch with metal scraper skills are next ... and we need pics of your scantily clad beer assistant...showing her beer torquing technique. :hairy:


----------



## stickz (Feb 6, 2013)

Efilnikufesin said:


> I hope at least 250 of that was on beer.


I don't really drink, but we could easily smoke 300 bucks worth of shatter.


----------



## stickz (Feb 6, 2013)

Matty_B_Bop said:


> good to know!
> 
> got a link?
> 
> ...



ZUMWax Ski/Snowboard Wax - Base Prep/Clean/Travel/Store - 100 gram - Excellent Storage & Travel Wax - Exellent Summer Storage Wax https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EGS2LNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2g6owb7X4A99V


----------



## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

stickz said:


> ZUMWax Ski/Snowboard Wax - Base Prep/Clean/Travel/Store - 100 gram - Excellent Storage & Travel Wax - Exellent Summer Storage Wax https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EGS2LNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2g6owb7X4A99V


Isn't that more expensive per gram than Hertel?


----------



## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

f00bar said:


> Isn't that more expensive per gram than Hertel?



Hertel is $.003/gram more expensive


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

tanscrazydaisy said:


> Hertel is $.003/gram more expensive


i almost prefer this since i can get a nice big brick of it. or is it necessary to use a "special" wax for hot scraping?


----------



## stickz (Feb 6, 2013)

Not at all I just like it because it's softer and works well as a base wax and hot scrape wax. I use hertels hot sauce for the second wax.


----------



## F1EA (Oct 25, 2013)

Oh... and get a metal scraper instead of plastic. 

Much quicker to scrape your boards with metal; plus stays sharp a looooooot longer and costs the same as a plastic one. Dull the corners with some sand paper or ober a rough surface.


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

F1EA said:


> Oh... and get a metal scraper instead of plastic.
> 
> Much quicker to scrape your boards with metal; plus stays sharp a looooooot longer and costs the same as a plastic one. Dull the corners with some sand paper or ober a rough surface.


now that i have the technique down, i'd be comfortable using a metal scraper.


----------



## stickz (Feb 6, 2013)

Not set up but in all came in today.


----------



## Matty_B_Bop (Jan 27, 2015)

stickz said:


> Not set up but in all came in today.


hell yeah!

Which clamps did you get? I see you got a lot of edge tuning stuff. I'm still sketchy about doing my own edging. I might wait on that for a bit. I wanna nail down waxing first, haha. 

Can't wait to see it when it's all set up! You're going to love that brush kit. I got the same one and it's awesome. 

post more pics when you have it all set up!


----------



## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

stickz said:


> Not set up but in all came in today.



I see stuff from racewax.com

The DMT requires them to be wet. I use them with the SKS guide to do my sharpening (maintaining my edge bevels)


----------



## stickz (Feb 6, 2013)

All set up now!!


----------



## Opunui (Mar 30, 2015)

Nice plants..:hairy:


----------



## stickz (Feb 6, 2013)

Opunui said:


> Nice plants..:hairy:


Thanks that's the veg room.


----------



## stickz (Feb 6, 2013)

Matty_B_Bop said:


> hell yeah!
> 
> Which clamps did you get? I see you got a lot of edge tuning stuff. I'm still sketchy about doing my own edging. I might wait on that for a bit. I wanna nail down waxing first, haha.
> 
> ...



Some swix for like $70 bucks. Edge work is easy with a good tool it's hard to fuck it up.


----------

