# Nylon vs. Horse Hair



## stickz (Feb 6, 2013)

The best video I've seen uses horse hair second super fine steel first.


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## linvillegorge (Jul 6, 2009)

Nothing. Scrape and ride. All that polishing and brushing and buffing with your nutsack or whatever is gonna make a difference for about two runs, if that. If you're racing, go for it. If not, you're just wasting your time.


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## bksdds (Jul 2, 2015)

human hair. preferably the pube type (virgin is better).


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## SnowDragon (Apr 23, 2012)

bksdds said:


> human hair. preferably the pube type (virgin is better).


But what if I can't afford to fly you to my house to use your virgin pube hair to structure my board? Then what?


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## Manicmouse (Apr 7, 2014)

Also ensure you use the correct hand file when fixing those rough edges, helpful guide below:










Don't overthink this :facepalm1:


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## Mizu Kuma (Apr 13, 2014)

So if I'm to tune my edges in Colorado, I should steer clear of the Swiss Patterns????? 

And what do I use if I'm in Argentina????? :embarrased1:


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

basser said:


> Hey guys,
> after hot waxing, to texture the board, do you use a horse hair brush or a nylon brush? whats the difference?


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## bksdds (Jul 2, 2015)

GreyDragon said:


> But what if I can't afford to fly you to my house to use your virgin pube hair to structure my board? Then what?


next best suitable virgin hair would be off your upper lip/ass crack. :hairy:


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

May be a dumb question... but for what is this texture-brush? Is it meant to be a mild / DIY / cheep (?) alternative to a stone grind? 
The vid just mentions pre wax cleaning (I never had the impression that base was dirty...?) and post wax polishing... uhm... that's done within the first meters riding by the snow I would assume?


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## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

linvillegorge said:


> Nothing. Scrape and ride. All that polishing and brushing and buffing with your nutsack or whatever is gonna make a difference for about two runs, if that. If you're racing, go for it. If not, you're just wasting your time.


Yea I think that shit works for a ski-racer (the lowest form of snow enthusiast) for the friction of about 2 turns, but if you don't have it, you lost the race.



neni said:


> May be a dumb question... but for what is this texture-brush? Is it meant to be a mild / DIY / cheep (?) alternative to a stone grind?
> The vid just mentions pre wax cleaning (I never had the impression that base was dirty...?) and post wax polishing... uhm... that's done within the first meters riding by the snow I would assume?


Yea Neni, but as Lgeegee and I suggest its relevant for someone trying to juice .001 of a second.


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## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

For 99% of people it's all just an excuse to sell your more shit or justify the costs of someone else does it.


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## deagol (Mar 26, 2014)

if anyone thinks this is too complicated, you ought to see what Nordic (cross country) ski racers go through to wax their skis, especially racers: blending different colors of wax, multiple coatings, multiple textures.. it's crazy


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

Slightly off topic,… or at least "sideways" of the OP's original inquiry anyhoo,…

I believe I recall reading something about not using horsehair brushes on "Black" bases,..? Something about static build up and that slowing your glide?

Anyone got the 411 on that? 



As for the rest of that post wax structuring debate,..? I wax, scrape, stroke it a few times with a green "scrubby" thing and I'm good to go!



(_….I also do the exact same thing with my snowboard!_) :embarrased1:  :lol:

:hairy:


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## f00bar (Mar 6, 2014)

chomps1211 said:


> Slightly off topic,… or at least "sideways" of the OP's original inquiry anyhoo,…
> 
> I believe I recall reading something about not using horsehair brushes on "Black" bases,..? Something about static build up and that slowing your glide?
> 
> ...


That's why I do all my waxing in a faraday cage.

Honestly though, that's about the silliest thing I've ever heard.


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## basser (Sep 18, 2015)

chomps1211 said:


> Slightly off topic,… or at least "sideways" of the OP's original inquiry anyhoo,…
> 
> I believe I recall reading something about not using horsehair brushes on "Black" bases,..? Something about static build up and that slowing your glide?
> 
> ...





neni said:


> May be a dumb question... but for what is this texture-brush? Is it meant to be a mild / DIY / cheep (?) alternative to a stone grind?
> The vid just mentions pre wax cleaning (I never had the impression that base was dirty...?) and post wax polishing... uhm... that's done within the first meters riding by the snow I would assume?


I had read that after you scrape the wax off the board, the brush textures it. This removes any extra wax, creates grooves, and helps channels the water away from the base. Which I believes help you go faster. There is also a suction cup effect when there are two smooth surfaces with water inbetween them, the grooves and channels also help reduce that.


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## tanscrazydaisy (Mar 11, 2013)

basser said:


> I had read that after you scrape the wax off the board, the brush textures it. This removes any extra wax, creates grooves, and helps channels the water away from the base. Which I believes help you go faster. There is also a suction cup effect when there are two smooth surfaces with water inbetween them, the grooves and channels also help reduce that.


It's not really "texturing". When you scrape, you only scrape stuff off of the peaks of the structure. Brushing removes the wax in the "valleys". The factory grind is fine for most riders in most conditions. So, yes, exposing the structure makes you faster.

Here's the short story on structure:
Ski Base Structure Theory

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The videos I posted in various threads (usually the same videos over and over again), makes it sound confusing. It becomes almost second nature after a few times.

--------------------------------------
When I started a few years ago, I started with 2 brushes: Copper (more forgiving than steel) and nylon.

Last year I added a horsehair. I would love a  roto brush axle  with a nylon brush .

For sharpening, I started with a cheapo Swix multi angle that was confusing to use, that I got from a local shop.

Then that got replaced by a SKS one with some diamond stones


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## cookiedog (Mar 3, 2014)

basser said:


> I had read that after you scrape the wax off the board, the brush textures it. This removes any extra wax, creates grooves, and helps channels the water away from the base. Which I believes help you go faster. There is also a suction cup effect when there are two smooth surfaces with water inbetween them, the grooves and channels also help reduce that.


I'm almost certain, those grooves are destroyed after first couple of runs. 
See all this extra work going into waxing your board is not really needed, 99% of us won't even notice those groves.
For me it's almost like a preseason meditation, drinking beer slowly waxing your boards...


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## basser (Sep 18, 2015)

cookiedog said:


> I'm almost certain, those grooves are destroyed after first couple of runs.
> See all this extra work going into waxing your board is not really needed, 99% of us won't even notice those groves.
> For me it's almost like a preseason meditation, drinking beer slowly waxing your boards...



yeah that's probably true


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## SkullAndXbones (Feb 24, 2014)

using a brush takes out the extra wax flakes that the scraper couldn't get


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