# Svalbard '16



## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

Ready to head noooooooorth :grin:


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

neni said:


> Ready to head noooooooorth :grin:


:cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer:

Pics!!!! Don't forget the pics!!!! :grin:


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## Tatanka Head (Jan 13, 2014)

Oh, you really meant heading nooooorth in your message, haha. Yeah, can see why you stopped following local reports!!

Just read about Svalbard on Whitelines. Should be an amazing trip!!! Have fun!!


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

After a very long cumbersome journey (the board bags got lost on the way... should be delivered tomorrow) we've been super stoked when the cover of clouds broke off and let us get a glimpse of the region we're about to land


















Yay, snow! Yay, cold! 

Some things are bit different :laugh: beneath the name tag the stewardess on the plane was wearing this badge (she gave it to me when we left)








And indeed, in the hotel we were briefed to don't leave certain boundaries of the town cos a polar bear was only just spotted last week close by... on the snowmobiles passing by one sees rifles... so this may explain the signs on the entry to the bank/ATM









Super tired, but also super excited to be here. Dunno if I get rest, it's 11pm and the sun is up (won't go down this time of year here) and it's bright and I don't feel like sleeping :laugh:


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

:laugh:
You don't sleep when you're at home either! :lol:

Awesome looking terrain. :jumping1: can't wait to see the riding pics n vids!! Get sum rest n have a blast!


Remember,.. You don't have to outrun the bear! Just the person next to you!  :laugh:


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

Monochromatic day... mystical views crusing along fjords; ocean, sky, clouds, mountains, light n shadows blending into each other. The only colour today was the shy blue from a massive glacier behind an iceshield on the sea. 










Seen some seals and Mink whales (they taste aweful, btw); getting out of the fjord we were greeted with pretty rough sea; sooooo glad the meds against seasickness seem to work very well. Others were puking; I've been standing on the deck enjoying the rodeo ride with a big grin


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## Noreaster (Oct 7, 2012)

neni said:


> sooooo glad the meds against seasickness seem to work very well. Others were puking; I've been standing on the deck enjoying the rodeo ride with a big grin


:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## robotfood99 (Mar 19, 2016)

LOVE the pics. Can I use them for my wallpaper? (The lanscapes, not your packs:grin


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## killclimbz (Aug 10, 2007)

Yay neni! This looks awesome! Looking forward to more pics!


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## nutmegchoi (Feb 10, 2016)

I am so ready for this.
Keep them coming! :jumping1:


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

Weather didn't play today. Looked good at first, headed 90km by snowmobile to the east coast where there should be good chances to spot waleruss n polar bear, nice sunny patches all the way over frozen fjord n glacier, only to find that coastline covered by a thick fog. Complete whiteout after some meters into the fog. No chance to go further, would have been too dangerous. So we turned and headed for a different coastline; but there, we've been unlicky, no wildlife around.

Down there they'd be...









Was still fun to ride through the scenery... love those strangely shaped mountain ranges, the rough rocks, and the lack of other colors than black, grey, blue and white. 








However, also here the winter was not as cold n white as it should be. This fjord should be frozen... 









Weather reports are too funny up here. They change every odd hours. 4hrs ago it said bit clouds n sun the next x days; now it sais snowfall n wind the time we'll be on the ski n sail trip. We'll see how many times it'll change till then :laugh: Still very stoked. The mtns on the side of the fjord where we'll sail to look gorgeous; covered in beautiful white.


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

robotfood99 said:


> LOVE the pics. Can I use them for my wallpaper? (The lanscapes, not your packs:grin


 Sure. You may also like these 
























Only smartphone pics yet tho. Hope some of the real camera pics will be good as well. But also those pics were only black n white; the light was soooo strange on that day, never seen that before - a landscape and ocean without any trace of color.


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## Tatanka Head (Jan 13, 2014)

A whiteout in polar bear country? Sounds like a blast, haha.


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

Tatanka Head said:


> A whiteout in polar bear country? Sounds like a blast, haha.


Haha, we actually did hike with snowshoes onto a snowcapped peak plateau hitting a fog bank at some point and were 3hrs in whiteout.

Not a big problem cos _usually_ them polar bears aren't found on such elevation that time of year; they _usually_ stay at the coast line in spring. But in the mid nineties, a women was killed by a female polar bear wandering around on exactly that snowcap - her group was unarmed cos bears _usually _ain't roaming onto mountains that time of year :|. But that the guides go through a long arctic guide training which includes a lot of weapon handling in cold, storm, with n without gloves, have their rifles loaded and in one hand movement reach AND the fact that there never has been a human - nor bear - killing incident on a guided tour (only several un-guided ppl got caught) makes me feel rather calm. I don't deny that I had a tickling feel in the back sometimes when viz went down to 2meters and deliberately chose a position in the middle of the group .

Such a pity the weather stays bad. We only get to see the lower parts of the mtns with the exposed rough rock debris.
















Had a typical dinner today. Cold salmon (the most tender one ever), herring, dryed fish with dryed butter (yummy!), cold lamb and reindeer heart (yummy until I became aware what it is :laugh, and brown cheese dessert with some sort of berries I've never heard of before (super yummy)


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## snowangel99 (Mar 11, 2016)

Looks like you are having an amazing adventure @neni!!!!!!! Sorry to hear the weather hasn't been perfect but that snowmobile ride alone looked amazing!!!!! What an awesome experience. And that food looks utterly repulsive lol.


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## Trabi75 (Dec 12, 2014)

neni said:


> Haha, we actually did hike with snowshoes onto a snowcapped peak plateau hitting a fog bank at some point and were 3hrs in whiteout.
> 
> Not a big problem cos _usually_ them polar bears aren't found on such elevation that time of year; they _usually_ stay at the coast line in spring. But in the mid nineties, a women was killed by a female polar bear wandering around on exactly that snowcap - her group was unarmed cos bears _usually _ain't roaming onto mountains that time of year :|. But that the guides go through a long arctic guide training which includes a lot of weapon handling in cold, storm, with n without gloves, have their rifles loaded and in one hand movement reach AND the fact that there never has been a human - nor bear - killing incident on a guided tour (only several un-guided ppl got caught) makes me feel rather calm. I don't deny that I had a tickling feel in the back sometimes when viz went down to 2meters and deliberately chose a position in the middle of the group .
> 
> ...


That looks delicious and the landscape so amazing

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## Noreaster (Oct 7, 2012)

Wow, you could see in these pics how little snow there is on the ground. Can't be normal for this time of year.


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## robotfood99 (Mar 19, 2016)

Great pics and stories as usual! Have you been to the global seed vault? 


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

Weather still doesn't play; the thick layer of clouds keeps viz low and makes for too warm temps around -2°. 
Had an awesome day on tour with dog sled. Sooo love those animals, their eagerness to run! So much fun to ride the sled up and downhill.









The target of the tour was an ice cave under a glacier, 20m below the surface. All those beautiful structures get carved out by a melting water river in summertime; one can spot fossils in the stones which are entrapped in the ice (the mtns here have been an ocean bed at the equator... it's a paradise for geologist in summertime )

























For me, the shopping mall is a little paradise over here (Svalbard is taxfree)! They have sooooo great merino stuff, 1/3 the price than at home . Generally prices for food n gear are way lower than I expected (Norway beeing rather pricy and then being at the neck of the world, I've expected other numbers, sure not cheaper than back at home).


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

Packed the gear for the ski&sail tour the next days. Hmmm... weather forecast isn't promising, snow didn't feel nice on the hike yesterday (thick crusts up to 700m)... really hope that they'll find good spots and that weather gods will blow some gaps into the cloud layer :hope: I'd take the wind if it would lead to some sunshine (as I'm head to feet enwrapped in merino now :laugh
Can't wait to get some verts under the skins


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

robotfood99 said:


> Great pics and stories as usual! Have you been to the global seed vault?


We passed the entance of the vault on the way to a closed down mine. It's not open for visits








- the region here was populated for coal mining. Lots of old infrastructure, together with the rough black rocks and cosl debris gives the impression of being in Mordor sometimes...

Hard wind blew away some clouds, yay, we've seen the sun! 

















Food continues to be prime. Sooo live all the fish, and they've a very tasty local dark beer


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

*Sail&Ski - Day 1*

The sail&ski was a blast! We had bit of a rough sea crosding the big fjord due to the wind, the little icebreaker did quite some dancing rolling 30° left to right, but as long as I was looking outside watching the stunning coastline, I've had no problems with seasickness (totally different story in the windowless cabin trying to pack the gear for the next day :S)

















The passage accross the big fjord was and endless sight of glacier fronts reaching into the sea, peak after peak in the clouds, midnight sun allowing great views all the time. Been glad when we reached a calm fjord to anchor for the night, tho.

























Loading gear to the small dinghy and heading to a completely lonesome coast freckled with floating ice on the black sea, having these beautiful rough mountains in the background, one of the group always responsible for the polar bear watch, getting ready to hike in this huge place... what an adventure!


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## snowangel99 (Mar 11, 2016)

Gorgeous photos @neni!!!!!! Thank you for sharing. What an incredible experience. WOW!!!!! Seriously gorgeous. I can't believe you slept on that little boat. wow. You are a trooper. Do you have a picture of the sleeping quarters? Looks like an awesome trip.


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## SGboarder (Jun 24, 2012)

snowangel99 said:


> Gorgeous photos @neniI can't believe you slept on that little boat. wow. You are a trooper. Do you have a picture of the sleeping quarters? Looks like an awesome trip.


That 'little' boat is almost 80 feet long, displaces well over a 100 tons, and sleeps 12-15 people...
This gallery includes some pictures of the interior:
https://www.facebook.com/MS-Ulla-Rinman-325825437579364/photos


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

Yeah, the little icebreaker was pretty comfy! Two dinghies on board. Sure, cabins are narrow, but plenty of space to spread; it's been full with 14 ppl (10 guests, 2 guides and 2 boat crew members). Lovliest thing: Hot shower! :wub: And the machine room made for an awesome boot n clothing drying room


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## Rogue (Nov 29, 2014)

You're so rad!!!!

BTW, I would have been grouped with the others puking off the side of the boat ! 

Love the gray pics and how much more brilliant the colors seem when they do make an appearance.


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

*2nd ski n sail day*









Boat relocated in the evening, again with some rough swings on the open big fjord, crossing more glacier fronds and floating ice fields to reach a new destination, beautifully located close to a glacier. Arctic fox and waleruss greeted us there! Soooo love all the shades of white-blue in this landscape!

















After crossing a big snowfield with smooth snow, the rather strenuous ascent began: windblown crust at the beginning, which was cumbersome enough with the splits. Broke both (!!!) crampons already on the first yards zigzag traversing the steep slippery crusts and had to negotiate the boilerplate ice on the top without any help from crampons. The skiers had a very obvious advantage ascending that terrain... Burned quite some calories... but it was worth every drop of sweat!

































Had to boot pack the top cos it was too icy. Some left their skis further down, but I was determined to get the board to the top to ride the entire mtn (according to the guide it was a first splitboard ascent to that peak *smile*). Reaching the peak we got rewarded by a stunning view with fjords left and right from the ridge!


















Back at the beach, the flood had come. The guide who had to cross the flooded beach bridge bare foot (-1°C water temp) sure was wishing we would have had landed the dinghy on the right side... ; )


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

My turn for the polar bear watch (haven't seen any btw)








Th ice at the landing spot was bit soft; we both got a boot soaked by sea water. But with the foot put in a plastic bag, the soaking wet liner wasn't a problem, we did the long ascent without getting cold feet.








Crossing frozen fjord arms, blue shimmering ice beneath the skins








Weather was bit nasty, flat view, strong wind, icy slope. Had to bootpack to the peak, not much view from there. Descent over long icefields... the Jones Solution was a great partner for these rather challenging conditions. Very glad I got the new narrower one, never felt any moment of insecurity riding on the many icy surfaces. Ascending without crampons however was pita... edge stomping at every step was required. With that I got to the peak, slowly but steady. And at least all the spomping made me feel warm :laugh:








The hugeness, emptiness of this region is breathtaking. The sea, glaciers, sky melting together with mountains... I absolutely love this landscape!








Evening got golden 































sad to leave the region and the boat already. Next morning we're back in the harbour


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## snowangel99 (Mar 11, 2016)

Absolutely stunning @neni !!!!! Thank you for sharing your amazing adventure. It looks simply awesome. What a dream vacation!!!!! Sadly I wouldn't survive the boating adventure as my stomach would rebel. But it looks simply awesome and gorgeous. Wow. So so cool!!!!

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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

snowangel99 said:


> Absolutely stunning @neni !!!!! Thank you for sharing your amazing adventure. It looks simply awesome. What a dream vacation!!!!! Sadly I wouldn't survive the boating adventure as my stomach would rebel. But it looks simply awesome and gorgeous. Wow. So so cool!!!!


Thanks! It was a great experience, especially with the boat. Really loved the Ulla!

Honestly, I was a bit nervous about the boat cos I get seasick easily as well. Therefore I only booked a short trip and on a bigger boat (was eyeballing a sail boat trip for an entire week at first but... eek, that's a long time to be sick...). I've used Stugeron (Cinnarizin) at low dose once a day for prevention. 

Besides the first evening I was perfectly fine. The incident then was my mistake... I was silly enough to pack gear in the windowless cabin, lots of bowing, head up n down n sideways movements while the boat was rolling heavily; after the ride over the big waves on the fjord didn't make me feel sick I got careless, lol, and I payed for this. Else I felt _very_ fine.


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## robotfood99 (Mar 19, 2016)

Thanks for the great pics and narration. I now have enough wallpapers of frozen landscapes to help me through summer!


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

*Last splitboard day*

Sky cleared up at night, the brightness of plain sun shine made it hard to find sleep. At midnight:








But the blue sky which greeted in the morning made it easy to hop out of bed and pack for a last touring day to Trollsteinen mountain behind the town









Love the Norwegian way to take breaks: quickly dig a snow bank with windshelter wall, have a hot lunch and relax and enjoy the scenery sheltered from the icy wind.









Getting closer to the peak the name of the mountain gets obvious 








The light and scenery over the mtn plateau was stunning, landscape of narrow and far snowfields looked like white dunes. Seemed appropriate for this mystic troll mountain


















The ride down was the best of all the days, it had snowed some hours yesterday, a slight fluffy layer and further down nice soft corn in good viz. Was a great season ending day! (For the next days, trips got cancelled due to stormy wind)


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## robotfood99 (Mar 19, 2016)

Wow looks like you are climbing up frozen Godzilla's neck. Awesome pose at the end!


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## Seppuccu (Dec 4, 2012)

Fantastic. Yeah, I think that about sums it up.


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

*Last day*

Due to the stormy winds all tours besides boat trips were cancelled. Soooo... we hopped on another boat for a trip to Russia (i.e. Russian territories town on Svalbard where they dig for coal). In the middle of the big fjord the heartbeat lifting sound of rotors ppeared; the local rescue team came for a rescue exercise. Pretty impressive to watch the rolling boat being connected to the heli and men being transported up and down.










Yummy Russian truffles - the beer was a bit weak tho









Loved all the Norwegian dark beers and delicious dinners. If you visit Svalbard, go to Kroa and try the pepper steak and the chocolate dessert! 

































And in the pub you'll find an impressive collection of spirits... that's only 1/4 of the collection behind the bar 









Svalbard was great, absolutely worth a visit even if it's not prime pow county! (Actually it counts as desert, arid arctic zone). If you come, don't pack too much gear... the entire island is tax free... I've bought soooo much outdoor clothing, backpack is bursting. Plenty of merino stuff and a proper down jacket the size of Switzerland :laugh:


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## snowangel99 (Mar 11, 2016)

Awesome pics @neni
I am.laughing because you said "yummy Russian..." right after the rescue workers and I thought it said yummy Russian rescue workers.lol My mind tends to wander to cute men in uniform....

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## Deacon (Mar 2, 2013)

snowangel99 said:


> Awesome pics @neni
> I am.laughing because you said "yummy Russian..." right after the rescue workers and I thought it said yummy Russian rescue workers.lol My mind tends to wander to cute men in uniform....
> 
> Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk


You're apparently a bit randy this evening...
:wink::hairy:


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## Noreaster (Oct 7, 2012)

neni said:


> And in the pub you'll find an impressive collection of spirits... that's only 1/4 of the collection behind the bar


Contacting tour companies now...


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