# Homemade Jib Setups(Pics)



## slyder (Jan 18, 2010)

are those logs gonna make your board catch to much???

-Slyder


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## skylar (Oct 4, 2009)

Hey how long are those? I made a 8 ft PVC jib and its almost perfect for the area I have to work with. Idealy a 10ft would work.


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## HoboMaster (May 16, 2010)

They are all around 6-8 feet long. I thoroughly sanded all the logs until they were smooth as a baby's ass, sealed them, hot-waxed them,(drip wax on to them, then you take your propane torch and heat the cool wax and spread it evenly) then applied another sealer/stain on top, so they are catch-free and relatively slick.

My dad does every construction trade, so I have a pretty wide selection of tools available to me, that's why I chose to work with natural wood. It was also free, seeing as how I have 6 acres of woods :thumbsup:


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## slyder (Jan 18, 2010)

sweet sounds like you got it nailed down still looks sweet to have your own Jibbin stuff in your yard.

-Slyder


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## skylar (Oct 4, 2009)

You even have a natural run in. Thats perfect. I have to make drop in ramps. Last year i made a down rail, it was a pain in the ass to build up all that snow.


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## NWBoarder (Jan 10, 2010)

So jealous. I wish it snowed in my town enough to do that. I'm lucky if it snows at all. I live to close to the Puget Sound for snow to be an issue. Rain is a different story though.


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## InfiniteEclipse (Jan 2, 2009)

very nice, looks like it'll be fun


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## Method (Apr 3, 2009)

Is this jibpark open to the public? I might have to track you down :thumbsup:... I can bring smirnoffs or your alchohol of choice as a bribe offering :laugh:


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## Triple8Sol (Nov 24, 2008)

NWBoarder28 said:


> So jealous. I wish it snowed in my town enough to do that. I'm lucky if it snows at all. I live to close to the Puget Sound for snow to be an issue. Rain is a different story though.


Yeah, we can practically kayak in our backyards :laugh:


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## john doe (Nov 6, 2009)

Method said:


> Is this jibpark open to the public? I might have to track you down :thumbsup:... I can bring smirnoffs or your alchohol of choice as a bribe offering :laugh:


Careful Bro. I could be a trap.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEJ5bfuBehs


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## snowvols (Apr 16, 2008)

Method... You mean Smirnoff Ice right? :laugh:


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## TomasZ (Oct 17, 2010)

HoboMaster said:


> Here's mine, just waiting for the snow. Since mine are all natural wood, might have to make a cheap Trex box for some better practice on boxes even though the middle log is actually quite flat thanks to a weird inner growth.
> 
> I might be able to make a small kicker too, depends on how much we get dumped on down here at 2,200ft. The log-rails are standalone, but the two half-logs and full-log on the ground I'm gonna combo to make a line either 12 or 18 feet long.
> 
> I'm pretty inexperienced at jibbing, so I'm hoping this will give me some good practice without everyone watching me eat shit :laugh:


Hey what's up? Want to be best friends?


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## HoboMaster (May 16, 2010)

Shit, I better keep this a secret or else one day I'm gonna find all the local park rats at my doorstep. :laugh:

Then again, I could charge $5 admission and it would pay for my to-the-hill gas money!

Options.... Options....


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## rgrwilco (Oct 15, 2007)

i wanted to do this for this upcoming winter. So all i have to do is sand down some logs and seal them? Any chance you could post some closeup shots, specifically of the legs?


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## HoboMaster (May 16, 2010)

Depends on what type of wood you use, (these are all cedar, which is a soft-exterior type wood that does well with moisture and rotting). The big logs were from old fallen down trees, so they were pretty smooth to begin with, no tree-branch knots. The smaller rail logs were taken from the tips of cedar logs the logger took, basically the skinny part that is unmarketable.

Your first step would be to strip all the bark off the log if it has any. Then perferably take an electric orbital sander,(the round ones) and sand the entire surface that is going to be in contact with the board. If you have tree-branch knots that stick out, you will want to try and sand them down to the equal consistancy of the log so it's a smoother glide. Belt-Sanders work best for taking alott of material out of the wood, where the orbital-sander works better for getting a smooth consistant surface. 

Once it's sanded and dry, use an exterior rated wood-sealer, (especially if it's pine/fir because those aren't rot-resistant). I actually used an oil-based wood stain to give them color, but you can just use a plain sealer to keep the original color. Make sure it's oil-based, because water-based tends to not work as well, especially outside. The more coats you put on the smoother the surface will feel and the less wood-to-board friction you will encounter.

My log-rails are a bit humpy which isn't optimal, so if you can find a piece of wood to work with that's as smooth/consistent as possible, it will be that much easier to deal with.

You can do a wax-coat like I did, but it's not necessary. All it's really for is to protect the wood, though it also works great if you have any concave knot-holes you need to fill.

I'll get you some close-ups later today so you have a better idea.


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## HoboMaster (May 16, 2010)

Here's some closeups. On the rails for the base pieces, if your doing a straight-rail just cut your stumps with no angle. Then figure out underneath of the log where your going to attach the stumps. Take your sander and sand it until it's flat right where the stump is going to mount. 

Take a big long screw, and drive it from the top of the log into the stump. You can drive the screw as deep as you want into the log, once it passes the surface your board won't catch it. Afterwards you can fill the holes with wax or a putty, or just leave it alone. Take some smaller but decent sized screws, (3 inch is good) and screw them at an angle into the stump then into the log, this will help anchor the two pieces together. Do it on both sides for strength. The only difference when your making an angle-rail, is that you need to cut your base-stumps at the same angle as the desired rail angle, to keep the surface flat when they touch.

The bases can be made out of really anything. On the bigger rail I cut some pieces of wider lumber, drilled it into the base of the stumps, then added strips of scrap pressure-treated which are screwed into the lumber as well as the stumps for added strength. Since the small straight-rail is low to the ground, I just cut some square pieces of plywood and screwed those into the stumps.

To keep the rails more stable when being used and to hide the bases from sticking out, what I'll do is dig the feet into the snow and compact the snow over them so I won't hit them with my board, and the compacted snow will help keep them more stable.

The big logs are self-explanatory, all you have to do is sand and finish them, then build them into snow so they don't move.


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## RedRomo (Aug 17, 2010)

:thumbsup: Very cool! Nice craftsmanship.


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## john doe (Nov 6, 2009)

If you make that type of rail put some liquid nail between the rail and legs. It will fill voids and broaden the contact point to help prevent the rail from working loose and rocking side to side.

Those are some good looking rails. Would make for nice filming.


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## InfiniteEclipse (Jan 2, 2009)

alright thats it, next year's meet is at HoboMaster's house


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