# My DIY splitboard project



## West Baden Iron

Here is the setup I used sawing it in half. I do metalworking, so I always have a bunch of steel tubing laying around. I used a piece of flat stock for the nose and tail. Cutting went off without a hitch.





















Here are the 2 halves, in dining room touring mode.







Here is my end of the work for the day.








More work and photos to come in the next week or so. I will file the base edge and round the tips. And wait for my DIY kit to arrive.

Jason


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## davidj

Looks good. Keen to see how it works on the slopes. Where you planning to splitboard?


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## killclimbz

Looks awesome. With your metal working skills I am sure you could insert an edge if you wanted. Otherwise, clean up the cut, and start sealing that bitch. I believe most use epoxy and then maybe add a poly urethane at the end. Evidently the edge will soak up a ton of epoxy. I am sure you know this, but just in case. Use a flexible epoxy with as low as a temperature rating as you can find.


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## West Baden Iron

davidj said:


> Looks good. Keen to see how it works on the slopes. Where you planning to splitboard?


Thanks. I'm building it for when I go to Colorado next spring but I will probably try it out on my home hill here in Indiana. I'm gonna try to ride it down and skin back up the hill for practice before I go out west. Not sure how well it will work, but it should at least get used to how it works before I get to the mountains.

Jason


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## West Baden Iron

killclimbz said:


> Looks awesome. With your metal working skills I am sure you could insert an edge if you wanted. Otherwise, clean up the cut, and start sealing that bitch. I believe most use epoxy and then maybe add a poly urethane at the end. Evidently the edge will soak up a ton of epoxy. I am sure you know this, but just in case. Use a flexible epoxy with as low as a temperature rating as you can find.


Thanks killclimbz. I was contemplating putting an inside metal edge, but haven't researched it enough yet. I might leave that for a better board that i'll split if this works out good.

I sanded the edges and beveled the base to a 45 degrees. Pictures don't show anything, so I didn't load those. Here are the tips rounded.








Jason


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## West Baden Iron

I decided to just go with spar urethane to seal the inside edges. I researched here and splitboard.com until my head hurt. Lots of discussion about epoxy, urethane, metal edges, etc. For my first splitboard, I decided I would go the easier route and see how it holds up. I ok with some maintenance on the edge as I will only use it a few times a year. I put 4 coats on and sanded it smooth with 400 then 600 grit sandpaper.

I'm done with this until Friday when my DIY kit comes in. However, I found printable templates on the voile site. Should I wait for the kit, or will the printed templates be just fine? I set the scale to 100%, but I'm worried it isn't perfect. I probably should wait, not like I'm going split boarding tomorrow.

What would everyone advise about using the universal pucks rather than the DIY pucks? I'm sure adjustability is nice, but I've ridden +15, -15 for quite a while so I don't think that would change for BC. However, I really haven't ridden any BC, so maybe it would be better to have the ability to change stance angles and setback. I realize I'll have to drill quite a few more holes if I go with universal pucks, but I'm ok with that.

Jason


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## West Baden Iron

Well, I stopped being a dumbass on the printable templates and just measured them. The pivoting hook holes are exactly 0.75" and the tail clip holes are exactly 1.00". So I believe that they are to the correct scale as I printed the pattern for the holes for using the universal pucks from firstlightsnowboards.com with the measurements on them and they came out correct as well.

One more question, what is the standard dimension for the width between the holes on a standard split board? The patterns I found have 2 options, 3.34" and 3.375". I have researched, but obviously I'm not searching correctly because I cannot find this dimension. I realize the difference is minimal at 0.025", but I want to get it right if I do go this route.

Jason


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## mhaas

universal pucks for sure. You don't want to be stuck with an uncomfortable stance. and you might eventually buy a factory split and that's 50 bucks less you will have to spend.


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## killclimbz

You stance is fine. That is exactly what I rock. A duck stance lets you squat low to the ground. A handy thing in tight trees.

As far as pucks go. That is up to you. I think with the diy pucks you have more fasten points. If not than it is preference. You will have to re drill regardless of which style you use. There is not much adjustability without moving the pucks.


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## ETM

West Baden Iron said:


> One more question, what is the standard dimension for the width between the holes on a standard split board? The patterns I found have 2 options, 3.34" and 3.375".
> Jason


It really doesnt matter which one you use, I used the wider measurement on my DIY. If you use the smaller measurement its just a matter of rotating the inner disc on the puck 180 degrees. 
Both work exactly the same.

IMO the best method is to get an undrilled puck from firstlight and use 2 of the 4x4 holes and drill one extra t nut on the outside. This reduces the number of holes you put in the board by 4 and you actually have 4 more screws holding the pucks down


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## ETM

like this


Google Image Result for http://www.firstlightsnowboards.com.au/uploads/3/6/6/4/3664728/195427_orig.jpg


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## West Baden Iron

ETM said:


> It really doesnt matter which one you use, I used the wider measurement on my DIY. If you use the smaller measurement its just a matter of rotating the inner disc on the puck 180 degrees.
> Both work exactly the same.
> 
> IMO the best method is to get an undrilled puck from firstlight and use 2 of the 4x4 holes and drill one extra t nut on the outside. This reduces the number of holes you put in the board by 4 and you actually have 4 more screws holding the pucks down


My only issue with using Adam's pucks is the Brigade only has a 4X4 pattern on the board. It looks like one of the halves of the pucks needs to use a 2X4 hole. If I use a 15/-15 stance, will I have enough puck to use the 4X4 holes on both halves of both pucks? Hopefully you understand what I mean, that sounds stupid when I read it back.

I'm probably over thinking this for my first splitboard. I may just use the DIY pucks and see how the board turns out. If I really like it, I will cut a more specific pow board go all out with inside edges and Adam's pucks.

Thanks,

Jason


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## ETM

It will work. There is no reason you have to avoid the outer section of the puck because the screw gets countersunk anyway.
Like i did here. That is 4x4 @ 18 degrees


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## West Baden Iron

ETM said:


> It will work. There is no reason you have to avoid the outer section of the puck because the screw gets countersunk anyway.
> Like i did here. That is 4x4 @ 18 degrees


Thanks ETM. I may go that route. Did you mill that piece in your picture or is that from Adam West? I am considering buying some delrin and milling them myself. It's probably no cheaper to do it myself, I just like making crap.

Jason


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## ETM

I got the blank off adam but you can easily make it from scratch if you know what you are doing. It machines really easy but makes a lot of mess lol


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## West Baden Iron

ETM said:


> I got the blank off adam but you can easily make it from scratch if you know what you are doing. It machines really easy but makes a lot of mess lol


I went ahead and bought the pucks from Adam. I decided to support a guy doing the leg work rather than me just copying what he is doing and he gets nothing out of it. What a good samaritan I am, huh?

Anyway, here is my progress from today. Stickers on for the chinese hooks, center punched and ready to drill.















Chinese hooks installed.








Tip clip installed.








cont.


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## West Baden Iron

Rivets smashed








Chinese hook hardware on the base








T-Nuts prior to expoxy.








The far right one I tried to use the forstner bit in the drill press. Didn't work, so I went with the 3/4" wood boring bit for the remaining. Worked much better.








cont.


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## Krug

Cool project. You going to use that on powder days at Perfect North? Perhaps hike the north face and drop in.


Krug


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## West Baden Iron

Couple more
















Jason


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## West Baden Iron

Krug said:


> Cool project. You going to use that on powder days at Perfect North? Perhaps hike the north face and drop in.
> 
> 
> Krug


I'll be riding the huge pow days we have at Paoli Peaks with this stick. Skinning the north face here since it's 10 minutes from my house.

I'm going to Colorado in the spring and gonna splitboard out there. Hoping I can get a couple trips in, but not certain. Probably go to Vermont again and try it out there as well.

Jason


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## West Baden Iron

I'm probably done with this until I get my pucks in. I'm gonna try to make my own bindings as soon as the pucks come in. Not sure how well it will turn out, or how well I will like it. I have a set of Ride EX bindings with the aluminum base, so I'm gonna weld the Voile slider to the base with the slider area cut out so the base can slide down flush with the top of the slider. I've seen a few people do this and it seemed to work ok. I'm looking at stiffening up the stop tab on the rear of the Voile slider as well. I have been told that is a weak point on the slider.

I'll probably end up buying some Spark Blaze LT bindings before I go to the mountains. However, I like trying to make stuff, so I'll see how this goes. 

Jason


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## ShredLife

looking good... you like to make stuff - take a look at the spark lt bracket and fab up some copies of that.. brass bushings... voile brackets suck


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## West Baden Iron

ShredLife said:


> looking good... you like to make stuff - take a look at the spark lt bracket and fab up some copies of that.. brass bushings... voile brackets suck


That sounds like a plan. Just from playing around today with the pins and brackets, I could see how these would suck in the backcountry.

I haven't even researched them enough to know the difference yet. I better get to looking.

Jason


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## ETM

I welded a few pair up last week. Just have to clean the anodizing off real good and be careful you dont over penetrate the slider or you will be in a world of die grinding pain lol


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## West Baden Iron

ETM said:


> I welded a few pair up last week. Just have to clean the anodizing off real good and be careful you dont over penetrate the slider or you will be in a world of die grinding pain lol


Thanks for the heads up. I hadn't thought of that nightmare of cleaning out the slider track.

How do you like your welded bindings compared to the Sparks?

Jason


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## ETM

Ive never ridden them, i just welded them for adam.


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## West Baden Iron

ETM said:


> Ive never ridden them, i just welded them for adam.


Mr. 20 Questions here. I was pissing around with the bindings mounted on the voile sliders tonight (since I don't have my pucks or welded anything yet) and noticed with my plates at 0 degrees and mounted in touring mode, I had a pigeon toe stance on the board (toes pointed inward slightly). Is this normal, or should it be running as close to parallel as possible when in touring mode? I'm assuming parallel as I would think that is how it how to be using the Sparks binders, but not certain. 

I guess my real question is how do you line up the slider with the binding to ensure proper alignment before welding?

Thanks again,

Jason


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## ETM

You want the touring bracket to be square off the inside edge and the binding parallel to the inside edge. You could correct it by mounting the touring bracket a degree or two off but its prob best to correct it with the cut on the binding. The plate will not be parallel but the binding will be if you get my drift. This will keep everything square if you swap to sparks. 
At the end of the day it matters not cause if you are pigeon toed you will pount the skis at eachother if the pins are mounted square. You could always strap into the bindings and scribe a line on the board across the toe to mount the touring bracket. Too many variables lol, prob over thinking


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## wearitwell

upgrade to the karakorham clips, i put them on my slip this year, best upgrade ever.


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## Amplid:::

wearitwell said:


> upgrade to the karakorham clips, i put them on my slip this year, best upgrade ever.


Yeah agreed the connection with Karakoram is great. We're using it on our splitboard this winter.

Regarding the pigeon footed touring stance, you'll probably want to tour with your edges on the inside of your foot so this will mean that your stance is actually slightly duck footed... which is acually fairly natural. As long as the ski tours straight and your heel aligns on the lift it's probably not a problem... It's definitely not worth removing the T-Bolts and redrilling.


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## West Baden Iron

Amplid::: said:


> Yeah agreed the connection with Karakoram is great. We're using it on our splitboard this winter.
> 
> Regarding the pigeon footed touring stance, you'll probably want to tour with your edges on the inside of your foot so this will mean that your stance is actually slightly duck footed... which is acually fairly natural. As long as the ski tours straight and your heel aligns on the lift it's probably not a problem... It's definitely not worth removing the T-Bolts and redrilling.


I ended up buying some Spark Blaze LT binders so I'll make sure the angle on my homemade Ride bindings match the Sparks.

I think I'm gonna modify some aircraft clips from Aircraft Spruce. They are only about $10 for the set. If I don't like how they turn out, I'll probably buy the K clips. I'm not sure I really need them though. My board is pretty tight with the Chinese clips. It seems to me the board would have a little fore and aft play with the K clips making sliding the binders on a little more difficult if you didn't get the K clips lined up perfect.

Jason


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## West Baden Iron

I don't have any updates on the board. I'm waiting on the pucks from firstlightsnowboards before I move ahead.

I ended finding a great deal on a Rome Whiteroom, so now this idiot in Indiana has 2 splitboards.

Jason


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## killclimbz

I've used both K Clips and Chinese hooks in the past season. Brand new. They are both pretty good at this time. I slightly favor the K Clips at this time. Not much of a difference though. This was all from demoing new splits for next season. 

I also have well used Chinese hooks and K Clips on my personal boards. Neither are nearly as tight of a connection as they were new. At the well worn in point, I do prefer the K Clips. They are just a more solid connection in the well used phase at this time. K clips are more likely to out right fail than Chinese hooks too at this time would be my guess. I have never had Chinese hooks fail but neither have I had K clips fail. Though they are not nearly as old or used as some of my Chinese hooks.


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## mhaas

The K clips give you a tighter fit but they Chinese clips are easier/faster to line up. I noticed bit more torsional play with the Chinese clips but I wouldn't say it affected the ride at all. The K clips were pretty rough on my hands before I wised up or they loosened up. I got some pretty nasty cuts on my hands from the K clips when I first got them. I don't think that either affects how the pucks line up. I currently have k clips and prefer them but would not change my clips if a board already Chinese clips. In my opinion the performance is about the same, just a matter of preference.

And if you have to splitboards it might be time to move west.


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## mhaas

and if you are going to weld the voile sliders to your bindings, I would maybe try to cut out some material from the center of the plate. those things are way too heavy.


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## Karasene

bookmarking your thread for when the time comes. Thanks for sharing.


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## killclimbz

Klem from Venture doesn't care for k clips and Barrows claims that chinese hooks are torsionally stiffer. 

Personall I like the feel of k clips so...


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## West Baden Iron

mhaas said:


> And if you have to splitboards it might be time to move west.


Probably not gonna happen as my wife and kids love where we live. I would move in a heartbeat, but I'm not going by myself.

I'm hoping to make at least 3 trips next year. 2 to the west and one back to Vermont. Time to stop buying shit and start saving money.

Jason


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## West Baden Iron

Karasene said:


> bookmarking your thread for when the time comes. Thanks for sharing.


No problem. I was hoping to be a little farther along by now, but the pucks are coming from Australia, so I'm probably being a little impatient. If I haven't received them in another week or so, I'll contact Adam again.

Jason


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## ShredLife

killclimbz said:


> Klem from Venture doesn't care for k clips and Barrows claims that chinese hooks are torsionally stiffer.
> 
> Personall I like the feel of k clips so...


i tend to agree. i got a pair of k clips for my NS and took them off promptly. they hulled the bottom of the board bad enough that i was worried about excess sidewall pressure. i hate that they flap and flop while touring. more moving parts = more chances for failure. 

my hovercraft came with them and i've left them on that board but i'd say i prefer hooks/


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## West Baden Iron

ShredLife said:


> i tend to agree. i got a pair of k clips for my NS and took them off promptly. they hulled the bottom of the board bad enough that i was worried about excess sidewall pressure. i hate that they flap and flop while touring. more moving parts = more chances for failure.
> 
> my hovercraft came with them and i've left them on that board but i'd say i prefer hooks/


I'm considering making a hybrid of the hooks and K clips. Basically Chinese hooks with the DZUS clips I bought mounted on top to pull the board together. I'm trying to come up with something to keep the clip from flopping around too. I know that will drive me bonkers.

Is this a terrible idea? Once I get my DZUS clips in, I'll post some pics to show my idea. I realize I'm way over thinking this, but I gotta do something to pass the time in this heat. It will only cost me about $10 plus some scrap metal I have laying around to see if this works.

Jason


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## ShredLife

West Baden Iron said:


> I'm considering making a hybrid of the hooks and K clips. Basically Chinese hooks with the DZUS clips I bought mounted on top to pull the board together. I'm trying to come up with something to keep the clip from flopping around too. I know that will drive me bonkers.
> 
> Is this a terrible idea? Once I get my DZUS clips in, I'll post some pics to show my idea. I realize I'm way over thinking this, but I gotta do something to pass the time in this heat. It will only cost me about $10 plus some scrap metal I have laying around to see if this works.
> 
> Jason


i personally wouldn't do it - especially at first (you can always go back and add it later), just because you really do want to minimize the weight of your setup.

one thing to remember tho: k clips are more advantageous on a DIY split because of the added clamping. i'd say on a DIY the clips may have a leg up on the hooks.


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## West Baden Iron

I got one Ride binding welded. Not the prettiest welds I've ever done, but they aren't coming apart in the backcountry. I'm a steel tig welder, not aluminum, as you can tell by the pics. One down, one to go.


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## ETM

AL welding can be a bitch if you are welding steel all day. 
Looking at the pics you are giving it too much filler which cools the weld pool too much so you wait for it to get hot again but it gets too hot so you add too much filler again lol. 

I like to wait for what I call the pac man before I add filler lol. He looks like a c shape, when I see this I add my filler, the leading edges (top and bottom) should be at least the size of the next bead before you put the filler in. Remember only give it a quick dab, less than what you are giving atm.

If you want to tidy up those welds run back over it with a pulse and no filler.


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## West Baden Iron

Thanks for the advice. I rarely weld aluminum, so it is always an adventure when I do. The welds will hold up, just never look very good. I don't have pulse on my machine at home, but I can pulse pretty decent with the pedal with steel when I need to. Should I try that to tidy up the bead, or will that just make it worse?

Hopefully my next one will look a little better. I usually find the sweet spot right as I finish a project, then go months without welding aluminum and have to learn all over again.

Jason


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## ETM

You could try the pedal pulse but its probably not worth it tbh.


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## West Baden Iron

Here is the other binder welded up. Looks a little better than the other. Still struggling with rod dip speed and amount. I should really practice aluminum on a daily basis.









I tried to pulse on a scrap piece with my pedal and as you said ETM, it didn't work. Tried probably 2 per second which just muddled the puddle and left no definition. Probably need like rule of 33, which I rarely use for my typical welding.

Here is what my bindings looks like now.









Just waiting on pucks and clips. Pucks just got sent from Australia, so they will be a while. Clips should be here tomorrow, so I can play with a design on those. My welding will be back on par as the clips are steel.

Jason


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## ETM

Just keep an eye on the under cut either side of the weld. If they start to crack thats where it will be. 
Sparks are great value arent they haha


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## West Baden Iron

ETM said:


> Just keep an eye on the under cut either side of the weld. If they start to crack thats where it will be.
> Sparks are great value arent they haha


Ok, thanks again for the help. I was really just doing this to screw around more than anything. I doubt I really ever use these in the BC.

Sparks are a great value for sure. It would make no sense to buy regular bindings, Voile sliders, then spend the time cutting and welding. I would have to charge $350 to break even. Haha. Didn't matter to me though because I used these Rides for quite a few seasons, got the Voile sliders with the DIY kit, and just enjoy modifying stuff.

Unbelievably light as well. They feel like they are twice as light as my homemade Rides.

Jason


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## West Baden Iron

Well, my attempt at the K-clip, Chinese hook was a failure. I couldn't ever get it tighter than what just my Voile Chinese hooks made my DIY board. The DZUS clips I got just had too much slop in the design and the tighter you pulled the board together, the more slop you created. Oh well, $10 down the drain. I guess there is a reason the K-clips are $50 and not $10.

On to my next wheel re-invention. What is the reason no one puts a 1/4" rod through both touring brackets while in snowboard mode? Is it too much tension on the brackets? It seems to me it would help line up everything. Maybe this has been talked about ad nauseam, I just haven't come across it yet.

If I did use this, I would use a 1/4" aluminum rod and pin on both ends with a cable holding the pins to the rod. Weight wise, it couldn't be but a few ounces. Maybe it is unnecessary. Give me the lowdown.

EDIT: I just found a thread in splitboard.com that already went through this. I was only 2.5 years late.

http://splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11116&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

Jason


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## ETM

Yeah people do do it lol. Just unnecessary weight imo. The bindings keep it stiff enough


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## West Baden Iron

*Finally an update*

Well, I finally did some more work on the DIY split. I got the pucks from Adam mounted to the board. I'll have to do a slight bit of modification on the right set of pucks because I can't get my pin in. I'll just have to remove a bit of material on one end. I've had to remove a bit of material on the sides of both pucks to get my bindings to slide on.

I still have to drill and mount a T-nut on the outboard side of each puck. I wanted to get everything else done before I drill more holes.

Here are the pics.


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## killclimbz

Looks pretty good! I am thinking you may want to set at least one extra screw in each of the pucks. More towards the back of the pucks. Just to make sure you are not leveraging the center too much. Should be easy enough to do.


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## ShredLife

West Baden Iron said:


> I still have to drill and mount a T-nut on the outboard side of each puck. I wanted to get everything else done before I drill more holes.





killclimbz said:


> Looks pretty good! I am thinking you may want to set at least one extra screw in each of the pucks. More towards the back of the pucks. Just to make sure you are not leveraging the center too much. Should be easy enough to do.


reading comp. fail/ 

lookin good man! :thumbsup:


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## West Baden Iron

killclimbz said:


> Looks pretty good! I am thinking you may want to set at least one extra screw in each of the pucks. More towards the back of the pucks. Just to make sure you are not leveraging the center too much. Should be easy enough to do.





ShredLife said:


> reading comp. fail/
> 
> lookin good man! :thumbsup:


Thanks guys. I definitely have to put another screw in each puck. They move around too much right now just getting the binders on and off.


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## ridinbend

West Baden Iron said:


> Thanks guys. I definitely have to put another screw in each puck. They move around too much right now just getting the binders on and off.


Now that you have two splits, you'll have to throw a swallow on that tail. Well mine is a bit more bat than swallow but you get my point.


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## West Baden Iron

ridinbend said:


> Now that you have two splits, you'll have to throw a swallow on that tail. Well mine is a bit more bat than swallow but you get my point.


That has crossed my mind but I may keep both boards normal so I can let my brother-in-law use one of them. Maybe I will make another board into a split swallowtail (as I slowly go insane).

Here is the board nearing completion with the epoxy setting up. I decided to not put the p-tex discs in as it seems most people have trouble with them falling out.


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## killclimbz

Yep, I definitely failed. It happens...


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## killclimbz

It seems those discs are so so you're right. For most people they are deep enough that those holes will fill with wax anyway, if you are even worried about it.


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## ridinbend

West Baden Iron said:


> That has crossed my mind but I may keep both boards normal so I can let my brother-in-law use one of them. Maybe I will make another board into a split swallowtail (as I slowly go insane).
> 
> Here is the board nearing completion with the epoxy setting up. I decided to not put the p-tex discs in as it seems most people have trouble with them falling out.
> View attachment 31337


All four of my DIY are with epoxy. Sand them flush or even close to flush and get a base grind. The base grind will flush everything up together and put a solid layer of wax on everything. I cant say I have ever felt anything noticeable when riding from having exposed epoxy. Im sure it would have to be on some groomed terrain to really even think your feeling it. Nice work, looks great. Here is my most recent split..... http://splitboard.com/talk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=16136


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## walove

no need to tee nut that out side hole on the pucks, i've been running inserts and a ski screw for a couple years on three boards, no issue.

i also just have epoxy over the teenuts in the base, only thing i could get to stick.


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## West Baden Iron

ridinbend said:


> All four of my DIY are with epoxy. Sand them flush or even close to flush and get a base grind. The base grind will flush everything up together and put a solid layer of wax on everything. I cant say I have ever felt anything noticeable when riding from having exposed epoxy. Im sure it would have to be on some groomed terrain to really even think your feeling it. Nice work, looks great. Here is my most recent split..... Splitboard.com Forums • View topic - My DIY Rossignol Krypto 164


Thanks. Your split looks great.

How did you remove the excess epoxy over the t-nuts? I thought a razor blade would just slice right through it, but it is proving to be a little more difficult.



walove said:


> no need to tee nut that out side hole on the pucks, i've been running inserts and a ski screw for a couple years on three boards, no issue.
> 
> i also just have epoxy over the teenuts in the base, only thing i could get to stick.


I didn't even think of a ski screw for that. I guess if I decide to move my stance forward or back, I will go that route. I have already installed a t-nut on each puck so that part is done. Same question for you as I asked above.

Thanks,

Jason


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## ridinbend

West Baden Iron said:


> Thanks. Your split looks great.
> 
> How did you remove the excess epoxy over the t-nuts? I thought a razor blade would just slice right through it, but it is proving to be a little more difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't even think of a ski screw for that. I guess if I decide to move my stance forward or back, I will go that route. I have already installed a t-nut on each puck so that part is done. Same question for you as I asked above.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jason


I have sliced through it while it was still soft, but I wouldn't recommend it. It can have some irregularities. Just let it dry completely and sand it. Get a round sanding drill attachment for your drill and just sand it down. It may rough up the base around the spots, but that can be cleaned up with wax.


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## walove

Yep, just sand or file it flat after its hard


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## walove

I used ski screws for the climbing bars too leaving me with tnuts for the up hill brackets. I'm thinking you could get away with a ski screw for the middle one


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## ShredLife

walove said:


> I used ski screws for the climbing bars too leaving me with tnuts for the up hill brackets. I'm thinking you could get away with a ski screw for the middle one


ski screw = helicoil?


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## ridinbend

ShredLife said:


> ski screw = helicoil?


Screws at a determined length that won't go through the base usually 8-9mm. Voile used to include them with their screw in pucks.


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## walove

ShredLife said:


> ski screw not helicoil?


The type of screw used to mount ski bindings, they come in many different lengths. You could use helicoils or inserts with machine screws if you planned on swapping parts at some time.


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