# Topcoat



## SnowDragon (Apr 23, 2012)

Winner of the most bizarre first post award!2::bowdown:


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## ridinbend (Aug 2, 2012)

GreyDragon said:


> Winner of the most bizarre first post award!2::bowdown:


I didn't even know what to say.


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## francium (Jan 12, 2013)

Haha same looked at the post earlier and face palmed.


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## SnowDragon (Apr 23, 2012)

So, I just watched the video.
Did you really put this on the internet with complete instructions, but the final step doesn't work?
Have you considered removing the video until you solve the clearcoat problem so that anyone following your video doesn't fail as you did (and possibly end up on this forum asking us the same question you are asking)?


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

GreyDragon said:


> So, I just watched the video.
> Did you really put this on the internet with complete instructions, but the final step doesn't work?
> Have you considered removing the video until you solve the clearcoat problem so that anyone following your video doesn't fail as you did (and possibly end up on this forum asking us the same question you are asking)?


If you follow an instruction vid step by step without first looking at the whole/end result, you deserve it


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## kosmoz (Dec 27, 2013)

http://youtu.be/fFXSF0o_tiY?t=2m23s


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## TanningLizard (Sep 16, 2014)

To kinda address all of you. I did not realize until last night when reviewing the video that i put the Waterseal in the video. I do say, though, that any clear coat should work. I will have to say in the description not to buy that stuff.

The video is complete though, if a person follows the information to a T and does not use the Water seal, it should come out great.

And to kosmoz. Haha, I did see that. You see, I originally had it on another channel, but i decided to download the file, put it on my current channel, and delete it on the other. I had trimmed out the "revealing" section of video on the previous channel, but i guess when i downloaded the video it downloaded the very original form so when i uploaded it kept all of its original...stuff. 

Joking aside, What do you guys think is the best topcoat? Automotive paint? or do you guys have anything else in mind?


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## TanningLizard (Sep 16, 2014)

There we go. I think that should have fixed it. The fixed video should be up in a few minutes.


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## CERBERUS.lucid (Oct 17, 2013)

Been doing board art for some time but not for riding purposes... so as far as sealing the art im not to sure what would work without cracking the sealant during riding... try perhaps simple cheap mod podge... or just reglass it like you would a surfboard.

P.S. you should at that video to this thread I started regarding snowboard @rt

http://www.snowboardingforum.com/snowboarding-general-chat/116217-board-rt.html


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## cookiedog (Mar 3, 2014)

that's one weird post...but ok. 
When you do the base coat you must let it dry completely which is usually 24hrs or at least overnight. OR IT WONT STICK. Then you send it and do another layer and let it dry again. Then you send it, clean it and apply graphics and lightly send it again with wet send paper. Then you do your clear coat...


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## Southernsnow2 (Aug 24, 2014)

How the 150 grit did not gouge the original topcoat down to the fiberglass I have no idea, let the board sit for 3 - 4 days in sunlight if you can, the compounds you sprayed on it aren't dry if its still sticky in some areas. Sand it all off and start over IMO, wet sanding 400 - 1000 grit. But, if you're happy with it, still wet sand 400 - 1000 grit and clear with an UV protecting varnish of some sort.


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## TanningLizard (Sep 16, 2014)

CERBERUS.lucid said:


> Been doing board art for some time but not for riding purposes... so as far as sealing the art im not to sure what would work without cracking the sealant during riding... try perhaps simple cheap mod podge... or just reglass it like you would a surfboard.
> 
> P.S. you should at that video to this thread I started regarding snowboard @rt
> 
> http://www.snowboardingforum.com/snowboarding-general-chat/116217-board-rt.html


The surfboard reglass sounds good, but would it flex? And the mod podge. That also sounds good. I looked it up and the products it's used on look good, but is it water proof?


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## TanningLizard (Sep 16, 2014)

Southernsnow2 said:


> How the 150 grit did not gouge the original topcoat down to the fiberglass I have no idea, let the board sit for 3 - 4 days in sunlight if you can, the compounds you sprayed on it aren't dry if its still sticky in some areas. Sand it all off and start over IMO, wet sanding 400 - 1000 grit. But, if you're happy with it, still wet sand 400 - 1000 grit and clear with an UV protecting polyurethane aerosol product.


The original topcoat was pretty tough stuff. I just used any sand paper I had lying around. 

I agree. I think I'll have to use a high grit sand paper and polish the top off before I use any topcoat to take off the tacky stuff. It's been sitting on my wall for 4 months now, so it's as dry as it's gonna get.

Where do you think I could find a product like that?


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## Southernsnow2 (Aug 24, 2014)

TanningLizard said:


> The original topcoat was pretty tough stuff. I just used any sand paper I had lying around.
> 
> I agree. I think I'll have to use a high grit sand paper and polish the top off before I use any topcoat to take off the tacky stuff. It's been sitting on my wall for 4 months now, so it's as dry as it's gonna get.
> 
> Where do you think I could find a product like that?


Home Depot or Lowes, keeping in mind this is a $40 board. I refinished the topcoat of one of my backup boards with 1 good coat of indoor/outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethane - $10. Board flexes fine with it, won't defect with sun/water/temp changes. Don't skip on the prep work and wet sand to at least 1k, will come out just fine.


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## ridinbend (Aug 2, 2012)

Southernsnow2 said:


> Home Depot or Lowes, keeping in mind this is a $40 board. I refinished the topcoat of one of my backup boards with 1 good coat of indoor/outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethane - $10. Board flexes fine with it, won't defect with sun/water/temp changes. Don't skip on the prep work and wet sand to at least 1k, will come out just fine.


+1 for spar urethane, I use it to seal the inner edges of all the splitboards I've made and it holds up great. It's almost a rubbery finish. Epoxy resin may flex better if you go resin route. But most likely if you did a solid press, you'd probably shatter it. Surfboards don't flex like snowboards.


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## TanningLizard (Sep 16, 2014)

Southernsnow2 said:


> Home Depot or Lowes, keeping in mind this is a $40 board. I refinished the topcoat of one of my backup boards with 1 good coat of indoor/outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethane - $10. Board flexes fine with it, won't defect with sun/water/temp changes. Don't skip on the prep work and wet sand to at least 1k, will come out just fine.


Sounds like i might have found the stuff i need. Is this what you had in mind? Minwax 33250 Aerosol Gloss Spar Urethane

The other items I found were in paint cans, this is in the form of a spray.


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## Southernsnow2 (Aug 24, 2014)

That is in fact what I had in mind.


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

Oh god......

Start over. Sand, use paint stripper, do what you gotta do. But start over!

Step 1: Purchase all three parts together. Primer, paint, clear. Get the stuff from an automotive paint supply.

Step 2: Prep the board by sanding with 100-150 grit or so, then wipe all your cooties off with mineral spirits. 

Step 3: Prime a couple thin coats. Then wet sand with 400 grit. 

Step 4: Paint a few thin coats. Then wet sand with 600 grit. 

Step 5: Clearcoat a couple thin coats.

Notice I said thin coats for every step. Prep and surface care between coats is everything. Never use thompsons water seal on a snowboard... it's for wood and it's not even good for that!


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## TanningLizard (Sep 16, 2014)

poutanen said:


> Oh god......
> 
> Start over. Sand, use paint stripper, do what you gotta do. But start over!
> 
> ...



Haha. I know what you mean. I read on the package "do not use on painted surfaces" I don't know what came over me, but I used it. 

I don't know if I really need to redo i just need to sand it and put a topcoat on.. The black paint (my base) was a paint and primer. I think I just need to sand it with a very high grit and topcoat it with the stuff mentioned. If two people use and like the stuff on their snowboards it should be good.


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

TanningLizard said:


> I don't know if I really need to redo i just need to sand it and put a topcoat on.. The black paint (my base) was a paint and primer. I think I just need to sand it with a very high grit and topcoat it with the stuff mentioned. If two people use and like the stuff on their snowboards it should be good.


You don't NEED to do anything, considering it's a $40 board you're just having fun with. However, if you're looking for something even remotely close to a typical topsheet finish, you're much better off with an automotive clearcoat than urethane.

As ridingbend mentioned, he uses it to seal the edges of his splits, not as a complete topsheet.

And as you mentioned the paint is tacky from the waterseal. If you want it to not end up looking terrible, start from scratch. And combo paint primers are crap, you're trying to do two very different things with one product.

I'll have to get a pic of a snowboard I did this past winter, but in the meantime heres a motorcycle tank painted with the method listed above.

Before:









During (this is after sanding the paint layer and applying graphics):









After clear coat:


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## Southernsnow2 (Aug 24, 2014)

Poutanen is right, the polyurethane may not bond to the paint.


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## TanningLizard (Sep 16, 2014)

Southernsnow2 said:


> Poutanen is right, the polyurethane may not bond to the paint.





poutanen said:


> TanningLizard said:
> 
> 
> > I don't know if I really need to redo i just need to sand it and put a topcoat on.. The black paint (my base) was a paint and primer. I think I just need to sand it with a very high grit and topcoat it with the stuff mentioned. If two people use and like the stuff on their snowboards it should be good.
> ...


OK. Cool. Couldn't I just sand down the tacky layer? I really don't want to redo the whole thing. I have my heart set on the design I have now and I don't want to mess with the soap method again. Haha. So automotive clear coat? Sounds good. That's what I was thinking in the first place, considering it normally goes on a car that can take a beating from flag?her.
Oh and I never asked, why do you think I need to start over? What raised the red flag?


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

TanningLizard said:


> Oh and I never asked, why do you think I need to start over? What raised the red flag?


Your first post:

"Also, if i rub my board the paint sometimes comes off and it is still a little tacky from the waterseal. I kind of want the topcoat to hide these problems, which would, in a way, erase them."

Topcoat doesn't hide problems. That's like putting a new roof on a house with a foundation that's crumbling. The house will still fall down.

I've said it once and I'll say it again: Surface prep is key.

The board must be CLEAN when starting out. Sand, wash, then remove all traces of grease/oil/etc with mineral spirits.

Only then will the primer bond properly to the existing surface. Paint will bond well to fresh primer, and clear will bond to fresh paint. Clear is not a sealer that will fix problems underneath it.


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## TanningLizard (Sep 16, 2014)

poutanen said:


> TanningLizard said:
> 
> 
> > Oh and I never asked, why do you think I need to start over? What raised the red flag?
> ...


OK. Thanks for all your help. Same to everyone. So in conclusion: remove any residue and moist paint through sanding and washing. If paint job is bad enough, restart. Use automotive clear coat to protect my masterpiece on the mountain. Thanks!


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

Finally got some pics of the board. This was done with automotive primer, base, and clear coats (with the marker being used on a wet sanded base coat). Sorry for the 5MP pics...



















This one probably best shows the finish...


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