# What size board, and do I need wide?



## jimster716 (Feb 11, 2009)

Where in Socal are you? Check our Val Surf in North Hollywood, Olympus Board Shop in Torrance, or Surfside Sports in Newport Beach. I'd look into a 159-163 depending on your preferences and where you'll be riding most (snow conditions vary between Mt High/Bear vs Mammoth). 11.5 probably won't need a wide.


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## kidRiot (Sep 23, 2011)

Im in San Clemente. Will be boarding at Tahoe this season.


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## chupacabraman (Jul 30, 2009)

Yep 158-163 sounds about right. Beware what companies call Wide, Mid-Wide, etc can be very different. In general though reg width is about 250-254mm, mid 254-259, and wide 259-265. U might be ok on a regular width board, but a mid or "mellow-wide" will be much better. Something 254-262mm. Make sure to get a stiff flexing board for your weight.


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## kidRiot (Sep 23, 2011)

I was looking at Never Summers SL and Heritage...

Think one of those would be good for me? In terms of supporting my weight?

In terms of experience, I've been riding for 10 years or so


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## Wiredsport (Sep 16, 2009)

kidRiot said:


> Im 5'10, 210lbs and have a boot size of 11.5
> What size should I look into?
> And will I need it wide due to boot size...


Hi Kid Riot,

Stoked that you are getting a new board!

The answers to your questions will all depend on the model that you are considering (what boards have you been looking at?).

If you have the time please read this:

*How wide of a snowboard do I need? Where is the width of a snowboard measured? What does width mean in terms of my boot size?

Let’s start by talking about measurements, because this is where a lot of the confusion arises. The most common width measurement that is provided by manufacturers is "waist". The waist is measured at the narrowest point near the middle of the board (usually). But like with all things in snowboarding, different brands measure different things. Some measure the midpoint between the tip and tail and call that "waist". Others simply provide a measurement they call, "width", but do not really specify what width they are referring to. 

If that has you a bit confused, don't worry, because regardless of where these "waist" measurements are taken, they are not very useful for what they are typically used for. Most people think that this measurement is a good indicator of what foot size a board will handle. It is not, and for a simple reason: you do not stand at the waist, you stand at the inserts. A board's waist measurement is always less than the measurement at the inserts and often the difference is significant. Additionally, two boards with the same waist dimension, may have very different measurements at the inserts, depending on each board's sidecut. Measurement at the center insert is a much better way to compare boards for shoe size compatibility, but for some odd reason, manufacturers do not publish this info.

OK, so now we have told you why we think the commonly provided measurements are pretty silly, but what good does that do you? You still need to know how to figure out the correct width for your new board. Well, here comes. There are two easy steps to getting it right every time. 

First, measure your bare foot. It is important that you do not try to use a boot size. It is also important that you measure in centimeters, because the board measurements that you will be comparing to will be in cm. Here is the method that we suggest:

Kick your heel (barefoot please, no socks) back against a wall. Mark the floor exactly at the tip of your toe (the one that sticks out furthest - which toe this is will vary by rider). Measure from the mark on the floor to the wall. That is your foot length and is the only measurement that you will want to use. Measure in centimeters if possible, but if not, take inches and multiply by 2.54 (example: an 11.25 inch foot x 2.54 = 28.57 centimeters). 

Second, measure the board you are considering. This measurement is easy. It should be taken at the inserts. Try to measure at the inserts that you will be using to achieve your stance position. If you are unsure about this, simply measure at the center of the insert cluster (that will still be very close). Be sure to measure using the base of the board, not the deck. This is important because the sidewalls on many boards are angled in, and will therefore give you a smaller measurement on the deck than on the base. For our example's sake, let's say the measurement is 27.54 at the center insert.

Still with us? You are almost done. You now have a way to compare foot size to board width where it matters, but how do you interpret this info to get the correct width? Well that depends a little on stance angle. If you ride a 0 degree stance, you will want your foot size to be the same as the width of the board at the inserts or up to 1 cm greater. If you ride at an angled stance, you will want to measure the board across at the angles that you will be riding. Again, you will want your foot to at least match this measurement or exceed it by up to 1 cm. So using our example above, this guy has a foot 28.57 cm that exceeds the board with at the inserts 27.54 cm by 1.03 cm at a zero degree angle. But, when he angles his feet to the 15 degree angles that he rides, voila, he has .10 cm of overhang for a perfect fit.

But wait a second. Are we saying that you should have overhang, even with bare feet? Yes. You will need overhang to be able to apply leverage to your edges and to get the most out of your board. 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch of boot overhang for both toe and heel is ideal, and will not create problematic toe or heel drag. Remember that boots typically add 1/2 at both the toe and heel to your foot measurement from above, due to padding, insulation and the outer boot materials. We do not suggest using the boot length to size boards though, as the extra padding etc, cannot be used well to create leverage, that has to come from your foot itself. We highly recommend that riders do not choose boards where their feet do not come to or exceed the real board width.

OK, that's all well and good, but where can you get the information on board width at the inserts if the manufacturers don't provide it? That's easy. Email the store that carries the board(s) that you are considering. Give them your foot length in cm (and your stance width and angles if you know them). They will be able to provide you with the width at the inserts that you will be using and can factor in your stance angle as well to get you the exact overhang that you will have with bare feet.

PS:

Once mounted, the best way to test is to put your (tightly laced) boots into your bindings and strap them in tightly. It is important that you have the heel pulled all the way back into the bindings heel cup or the test won’t help. On a carpeted floor place your board flat on its base. Kneel behind the heelside edge and lift that edge so that it rests on your knees and so that the toeside edge is angled down into the carpet. Now press down with both hands using firm pressure, one hand on each of the boots. This will compress the board's sidecut and simulate a turn on hard snow. You can change the angle of the board on your knees to become progressively steeper and you will be able to see at what angle you will start getting toe drag. You will want to repeat the test for your heelside as well. If you are not getting drag at normal turn and landing angles, then you are good to go.

PPS:

Also a note about boots: Boot design plays a big role in toe drag as does binding ramping and binding base height. Boots that have a solid bevel at the toe/heel drag less. Many freestyle boots push for more surface contact and reduce bevel. This helps with contact, but if you have a lot of overhang with those boots it hurts in terms of toe drag.

Now go ride!*


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## kidRiot (Sep 23, 2011)

Awesome post! Will read it over right now.

In the meantime, the boards ive been looking at:

Never Summer Legacy
Arbor Wasteland (Digging this due to mid-wide)
NS Proto (I like the all mountain, true twin design)

I was looking into the Heritage, but apparently its more stiff than the SL and Wasteland.


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## Wiredsport (Sep 16, 2009)

kidRiot said:


> Awesome post! Will read it over right now.
> 
> In the meantime, the boards ive been looking at:
> 
> ...


The Wasteland is a great board and a nice choice for you. You will want the 163 cm.

While Arbor calls it Standard width, it is 26.3 at the waist and 27.4 at the center inserts. That is a great width for your size 11.5's and allows a full range of stance angles and width options for you.

Happy riding!


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## CheeseForSteeze (May 11, 2011)

kidRiot said:


> Awesome post! Will read it over right now.
> 
> In the meantime, the boards ive been looking at:
> 
> ...


Keep in mind the Legacy is a mid-wide SL and the Proto CT can found in a wide version as well, the CTX. It's really more between, or a mid-wide like the SL.


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## david_z (Dec 14, 2009)

Legacy probably is preferable to the Proto CT unless you plan on doing a lot of park riding. The Proto can still hang all-mountain, but the Legacy is probably a better option if you're doing mostly groomers and "all mountain" riding. 

Proto CT comes in a wide aka Proto CTX. The Legacy itself I think is billed as a "mid-wide" but IMO it's more of a true "wide". I've got an 7- or 8-year old Legacy that can still rip but it is a big wide board, 163 with a 264mm waist spec and last I checked the waist dimensions haven't changed much over the years although they have lightened it up considerably.

If you don't think you need a wide board then your choice for NS should be between the Proto CT and the SL, rather than the Legacy.


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## kidRiot (Sep 23, 2011)

Sweet, buying Arbor Wasteland this paycheck.

Now to the bindings forum...


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## BsMcluvinBeach (Sep 16, 2011)

kidRiot said:


> Im 5'10, 210lbs and have a boot size of 11.5
> 
> I plan on buying an all mountain board, but since im in Southern California, I havent found any good snowboard shops so I can physically see/hold the board im buying, so im wondering:
> 
> ...


Your right in between riding a wide board and a regular board. One of my boys has size 11 and rides normal whereas the other has size 10 but prefers wide for his powpow action. Also, all of the board companies have different width sizes for their wide boards. With a size 11.5 foot and being 210 you may want to consider a wide depending on the terrain you enjoy riding. I would go to some board shops and try standing on some decks. Good luck.


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## snowfacekiller (Sep 26, 2011)

chupacabraman said:


> Yep 158-163 sounds about right. Beware what companies call Wide, Mid-Wide, etc can be very different. In general though reg width is about 250-254mm, mid 254-259, and wide 259-265. U might be ok on a regular width board, but a mid or "mellow-wide" will be much better. Something 254-262mm. Make sure to get a stiff flexing board for your weight.


I agree, Midwides are the way to go for you. If it's too wide you lose some of that quick edge to edge.


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## 604al (Mar 11, 2008)

I'm also an 11.5, and suggest something like 256ww or higher... i think there's more advantages to a wider board than thinner one in this case, and edge to edge responsiveness can be gained with binding adjustments.


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## chupacabraman (Jul 30, 2009)

It's not even noticeable.


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## kidRiot (Sep 23, 2011)

Hitting Olympus Board Shop thus Saturday. If I find a NS board I like, ill probably just buy it then and there


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