# Need a Camera



## Ryan_T (Oct 18, 2011)

I've taken my iPhone down to -20C with no problems. I'd say get the 4S. 

If you want something with a decent burst mode, that's harder. There might be a photo app that does it for the iPhone.


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## DrnknZag (Feb 7, 2010)

I got the Olympus Styleus Tough 6020 shockproof/waterproof for my on-mountain camera last year. Pretty decent shots during the day, but can't shoot worth shit at night and low light. Terrible flash too. I'm not too concerned about that though, I bought it for my on-mountain shots anyway so it does what I need it to do. A photographer buddy of mine got a Sony DSC-TX10, which looks freakin awesome if you ask me.


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## The Donohoe (Oct 30, 2011)

DMC-TS3D - LUMIX® Digital Cameras These look like pretty legit cameras, my brother has a lumix model and it's really a great camera, this one is defiantly the sporty one.


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

Does that have the all-in-one^


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## WasatchMan (Aug 30, 2011)

Canon 5d  

Killer video too


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## lonerider (Apr 10, 2009)

*Casio ZR10*

I have the older model the Casio FC100... 6x zoom, no water or shock resistance, not the "greatest" image quality... but does have a 30 fps photo sequence mode and a really nice slow motion mode here's a short clip I took as an example. It's small and costs around $250


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## TexassSnow (Sep 21, 2011)

I'm not sure if you're looking for a DSLR or like a point and shoot type, but I'm a big advocate of the GoPro. Bomb-proof and the new one has a 10 photo burst option now, and as far as cold temperature has a built in battery warmer for cold weather to make it last longer, which is badass. Just something to suggest if you wanted to go that route.*


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## hikeswithdogs (Sep 23, 2011)

GoPro Hero2

Good luck finding a better mountain camera in that price range


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

I don't want an amazing picture, just something that will be clear.


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## CheeseForSteeze (May 11, 2011)

I have a Olympus Stylus which is waterproof, shockproof etc. It does fine in the colder weather. The only problem is like most point and shoots, it does poor in low light (night, indoors w/ no flash etc.) The pictures come out blurry due to the long exposure required or they come out grainy even at low ISO.


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

Most would be during the day. When I'm night riding I'm just having fun. Does this have the burst mode. http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/product.asp?product=1497&page=specs 
I can't tell because it seems like everyone call it something different. Is the continuous shooting burst mode?


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## CheeseForSteeze (May 11, 2011)

Continuous Shooting. High speed: 1.2 frames/second, up to the remaining card capacity (3 MP); Normal speed: 0.3 frames/second, up to the remaining card capacity (14 MP)


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## Tarzanman (Dec 20, 2008)

Besides price range, you'll have to figure out what size camera you're ok with carrying around.

One of my cameras is an Olympus Stylus Tough and the picture quality is sub-par compared to other similarly priced point-and-shoot-cameras. 3 meter water-resistance isn't an absolute necessity on the mountain, but something that fits easily into a pants pocket might be.

You'll have problems finding an ultracompact camera with a decent burst mode. If I had $400 to spend and wanted the best quality in an ultracompact then I would choose the Canon S95 or S100.


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

I wouldn't be carrying it around with me when I would be in a place where i would fall. I'm alright with a not bomb proof camera as long as it won't brake from me dropping it or it getting a little wet, and operate in the cold. It doesn't need to be proof just resistant would be fine. Would the Olypmus Stylus allow me to take this type of quality photo...


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## DrnknZag (Feb 7, 2010)

Here's a couple unedited pictures I took with my Olympus Stylus from last season. On-mountain pictures usually tuned out great, it's just the low light and night shots that suffer.


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

Wow, I think I'm going for the Stylus. Which one is ti exactly though. Does the tough series ones take the same quality photo as the non-tough series. I can't tell yet what makes a good picture quality. Mega pixels I think, I know there is more than that but I don't know it.


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## grafta (Dec 21, 2009)

my gf has a canon powershot s95. it takes killa pics, pisses all over all other point and shoots i've seen. she's pretty much stopped using her dslr. low light included, you can change F-stops and all that shit manually just like an slr. that's about all i know


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## the REASON (Sep 30, 2011)

im selling a nikon d40 + accessories for $350. not sure if its what your looking for, but it does have a burst mode.


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## DrnknZag (Feb 7, 2010)

^^I have the Stylus Tough 6020. I'd think the non-Tough series would have same quality, but aren't shock proof, water proof, or freeze proof.


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## SimonB (Oct 13, 2010)

Sony DCS-TX10

I have the previous model (TX5) and absolutely love it. Super slim and super tough. Waterproof, freezeproof, dustproof, shockproof, etc. Get very nice picture and HD video. I always have it on me at the mountain (or at the beach, just rinse the sand of..)

Good battery life too.


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## howeh (Jun 2, 2011)

+1 for the S95. I took it on 3 trips last season, and it'll be with me for the upcoming one, too. Quality of pics is fantastic, it's small, light and durable, and has a big screen. Also records 720p video. Only downside is that you can't change the level of zoom when you've started recording video, but with a ContourROAM added to my arsenal this year I won't be using it for video that much.


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## mattbee (Nov 3, 2011)

Your best option is an HD action camera. As mentioned above, the new GoPro HD2 is currently the best out there and as well as being a sh*t hot video camera, also has 10 photos per second burst mode at 11 megapixels. If you go down the helmet camera route, the comparison chart at the bottom of this page might help - Reviews of the Leading Helmet Cameras


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

I'm thinking about this 

Nikon Store - COOLPIX L120

Didn't want to make another thread about this. So I am resurrecting this thread that should be dead. I'm sorry, I just figured ti would be better than wasting another thread. Thanks. Just kinda wondering if it's at least a little bit durable.


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## lonerider (Apr 10, 2009)

ThunderChunky said:


> I'm thinking about this
> 
> Nikon Store - COOLPIX L120
> 
> Didn't want to make another thread about this. So I am resurrecting this thread that should be dead. I'm sorry, I just figured ti would be better than wasting another thread. Thanks. Just kinda wondering if it's at least a little bit durable.


All cameras are durable up to a point - the smaller cameras have less protruding bits to smash if you fall on it. In my opinion the shock, waterproof cameras are way overkill in anything but pure rain conditions (not much point in taking photos in that situation.

Aside from the fact that the Nikon page for it says "Great for snowboarders!" what about it attracts you? Will you be using it for photo or video primarily (or give percentages)? landscape or action photos primarily? My opinion is that is is really bulky and unless you have a pack (I happen to be very anti-backpack - unless you are going into the backcountry).


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

Well, carrying it around isn't an issue. I can see my car from almost every point on the "mountain" we ave like 500 vert, so I can just leave it there and I have a HUGE media pocket in my jacket. I like it because it is only 300ish and has 14megapixels. Which to my understanding makes for a really good photo. It says it shoots well in low light, not sure how to tell kind of my question to you guys. Also it has a really good continuous shooting mode. I would be using it strictly for photos. Mainly park and our "powder days." Some landscape photos though, but mainly for when I take my trip to SLC next year. 

What do you think? Cause this is all VERY new to me. I know a lot about the after the photo is taken, but nothing about the taking, or equipment used to take it.


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## linvillegorge (Jul 6, 2009)

lonerider said:


> I have the older model the Casio FC100... 6x zoom, no water or shock resistance, not the "greatest" image quality... but does have a 30 fps photo sequence mode and a really nice slow motion mode here's a short clip I took as an example. It's small and costs around $250


That's pretty badass! I like it!


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## Torstein (Feb 13, 2011)

I suggest buying a Nikon D70. That's what I have and am selling if if you're interested.


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

Thanks, but I' pretty set on this. Just wondering about the night shot and if it is good for what I want.


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## lonerider (Apr 10, 2009)

ThunderChunky said:


> Well, carrying it around isn't an issue. I can see my car from almost every point on the "mountain" we ave like 500 vert, so I can just leave it there and I have a HUGE media pocket in my jacket. I like it because it is only 300ish and has 14megapixels. Which to my understanding makes for a really good photo. It says it shoots well in low light, not sure how to tell kind of my question to you guys. Also it has a really good continuous shooting mode. I would be using it strictly for photos. Mainly park and our "powder days." Some landscape photos though, but mainly for when I take my trip to SLC next year.
> 
> What do you think? Cause this is all VERY new to me. I know a lot about the after the photo is taken, but nothing about the taking, or equipment used to take it.


My thoughts

1. Never bother with megapixel count, that number is worthless these days (was important in the late 90's when cameras were less than 5 megapixel).
2. Don't believe the product spiel the company says - just because they say it is good for low light, doesn't mean it is good for low light. You are in the east and yes... low light performance is important there.
3. That continuous shooting mode of the Nikon L120, isn't that good really. According to the spec page you linked it can take up 17 images at roughly 0.7 frames per second. Compare that to the Casio ZR100, which can take 40 images in a single second (28 times faster than the Nikon). Since basically all park tricks (rails/jumps/etc) last less than a second - the Casio ZR100 would be better.

I'm going to steer you towards the Casio Hi-Speed series (ZR10 or ZR100). They are roughly the same price, have a somewhat decently close zoom range (really that 300-500mm range is worthless for most people), smaller than the Nikon L120 and have much better burst photo and video modes. In particularly, they less you make slow-motion sequences that I happen to like, linvillegorge just reposted a video I made using a Casio FC100 (older model from a few years ago), but here it is again.






ZR10 and ZR100 also have a pretty spiffy HDR mode which can make some pretty cool looking photo when used properly... here is a single example from a random guy I found on Flickr (my FC100 doesn't have this mode)










Here are the rest of his photos.

Torstein suggested the D70 and that's a great camera (incidentally he should be selling it for about $200 as I was just recently shopping for a D70 for Infra-Red photography since it doesn't have a hot mirror filter on it). But that's a dSLR and way too big and heavy for snowboarding use in my opinion. That's not to say I don't like Nikon dSLR... here is a photo I took last week with my Nikon D7000.










Other photos I took on that trip.


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

That does look really good. What kind of quality photo does it take? I know you posted the HDR, but what do normal photos look like? Also does the ZR100 take good low light photos? And lastly, how do you tell that a camera shoots quality pics? As in what specs make a good photo? I think that's it.


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## lonerider (Apr 10, 2009)

ThunderChunky said:


> Thanks, but I' pretty set on this. Just wondering about the night shot and if it is good for what I want.


The night shot looks pretty terrible on the Nikon L120 based on the follow sample shot made in a review...










Here is a link to the review that I got that from.

In my opinion, the main "feature" of the Nikon L120 is the super big zoom lens (25-525mm is enormous). I owned a bunch of those super zoom cameras (Olympus Ultra Zoom 2100, Sony F707, Canon S2 IS, etc)... but eventually realized that most of my "good" photos never used the high zoom range. Yes... one in a thousand photos you get a shot you couldn't have gotten... but at the cost of all your other photos.

Reading the review I linked to (I prefer dpreview.com, but imaging-resource.com and dcresource.com are trusty worthy camera review sites)... there are a lot of issues with the Nikon L120 (basically EVERY image quality issue you can think of) and I highly don't recommend that particular camera model for you.


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

Yea, I'm kinda changing my mind now. I just know I don't want the d70, no offense. The questions above are for the zr100.


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## lonerider (Apr 10, 2009)

ThunderChunky said:


> That does look really good. What kind of quality photo does it take? I know you posted the HDR, but what do normal photos look like? Also does the ZR100 take good low light photos? And lastly, how do you tell that a camera shoots quality pics? As in what specs make a good photo? I think that's it.


I assume you are referring the FC100 video I posted. To be honest, the Casio FC100 photo image quality is not the best, even for a point and shoot pocket camera. That being said, I think the photos in general are "good enough" in that you won't look at a photo and think (I wish I had better camera). A good photo is a good photo. Also I think it's images are still noticeably better than camera phones (I admit the iPhone 4S camera is impressive... for a phone camera).

Here are some photos I took with the Casio FC100 (which came out in March 2009) last season. I was quickly taking photos of the terrain park features to convince my friends to buy at season pass at this resort. I didn't spend anytime to adjust my exposure of composition since they would be able to judge the terrain park without it.

My friend's girlfriend just bought a Casio ZR10 (smaller version, slighly less featured version of the ZR100) on my suggestion and I believe the photo quality is much better than my Casio FC100 from her photos (she only posted them to Facebook I think). Let me see if I can find some ZR100 night photos for you - here are some... they look decent (not amazing, but not too bad either)










Link to the person who took that photo's Flickr page










More from that user.

Note that both those guys are pretty good photographers (one of them made a decent photo with his iPhone 4 and posted it)... so your personal results may not be the same. To answer your question about how to pick a camera - it is very difficult now-a-days for someone who is not a camera-head to figure out what is a good camera just by reading the specs. I mostly go to Flickr and search for images taken by real users (not the sample photos the company puts out), in the above cases I typed in "ZR100". Also... just like shopping for a snowboard, you need to really think about the main use of your camera... and make sure that the "main feature" of the camera matches your style as well... whether it be compactness, big zoom, etc...

Ok, before you blindly got to Amazon and 1-click buy it, I would recommend you go to a store to just hold the Casio ZR100 in your hands to make sure it feels good to you in your hands as well.


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

Basically My questions are this. For the ZR100: What kind of quality photo does it take? I know you posted the HDR, but what do normal photos look like? Also does the ZR100 take good low light photos?

Does the zr100 match up good for what I would use it for, mainly landscape and park pics of my friends? If not what would you recommend for that?


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## clarkie5 (Sep 25, 2011)

*camera*

fuji xp. i love mine ,.. not to much $$$ (waterproof, freeze proof, drop proof,)


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## lonerider (Apr 10, 2009)

ThunderChunky said:


> Basically My questions are this. For the ZR100: What kind of quality photo does it take? I know you posted the HDR, but what do normal photos look like? Also does the ZR100 take good low light photos?
> 
> Does the zr100 match up good for what I would use it for, mainly landscape and park pics of my friends? If not what would you recommend for that?


I just posted some non-HDR ZR100 photos I found in my previous post (which you might not have seen yet).

In my opinion, the ZR100 takes decent quality images for its class (compact point and shoot) and would be not bad for landscape photos. I admit its images are not best in class, but I think they are close enough, that most people wouldn't be able to tell. I think it takes decent low light photos.

The ZR100 offers a lot of features that I think you would use and enjoy that most other cameras don't have. Because of the slow-motion video and 40 photos in one second burst mode, I highly recommend it for people taking photo/video in the terrain park.

I would recommend the ZR100 or the ZR10... the ZR10 has a different lens on it, which makes it a little lighter and $50 cheaper I think. Below are the three main difference I could see... you may or may not find them important.

The ZR10 has less wide angle capability, this can be important for landscape/people photos as most digital cameras are too tight at their widest angle setting (it definitely annoys me on occasion).

The ZR10 appears to have much less macro ability (can only focus on objects at most 7cm in front of the lens... instead of 1 cm for the ZR100). Macro is when you take really upclose photos of flowers and bugs and stuff. Here is a shot taken by a ZR100 by someone on Flickr.










The ZR10 has less exposure options (4 second max shutter speed versus 15 second for that ZR100). This can be important for night shots... BUT you would have to be using a tripod as anything over 1/2 second is too blurry to shot handheld.


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

Alright thanks. Last question I promise. How far does the ZR100 actually zoom. I know it says 4x digital, but it says a lot of other stuff too and from the photo of the moon, it looks a lot more than 4x. Thanks a shit ton, your suuuupppeerr helpful man.


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## lonerider (Apr 10, 2009)

ThunderChunky said:


> Alright thanks. Last question I promise. How far does the ZR100 actually zoom. I know it says 4x digital, but it says a lot of other stuff too and from the photo of the moon, it looks a lot more than 4x. Thanks a shit ton, your suuuupppeerr helpful man.


According to the specs, it is a 24-300mm equivalent. That's a pretty big zoom range. The biggest zoom lens I have for my dSLR is a 70-300mm (although now that I think about it... with the 1.5x sensor factor... it technically is a 105-450mm lens). Needless to say... it is a over 10x optical zoom. Here is a youtube video demonstrating different focal lengths for you.






Ok, I think I'm going to unsubscribe from this thread. Most of the information I gave you I found in a few minutes Google the internet. Now that you know the websites I used (Flickr.com, dpreview.com, imaging-resource.com, dcresource.com, youtube.com, Google.com) you should be able to do any more research you want yourself.

Good luck


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

Thanks again man. :thumbsup:


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

That second shot is one of the most epic photos I have seen, professional or amateur. I was gonna say something earlier, but got sidetracked trying to find a camera.


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## DrnknZag (Feb 7, 2010)

Snowolf said:


> Just had to jump in here and say these two shots are like the best snow porn I have seen in awhile. DrnknZag, I know you are a Cascade rider too; where is this at? Crystal, Stevens, Alpental?.......I HAVE to go here.....:thumbsup:
> 
> Drooling on myself.....


Thanks man! That's Cowboy Ridge on top of Stevens. A short hike from the top of the 7th Heaven lift. There are some super gnar lines off that ridge and always good pow. Not to mention if you drop back to the front side, it's all avy controlled too. Both of those pics are looking back towards the front side too.


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## killclimbz (Aug 10, 2007)

Oh that is nice looking terrain. I've been on Heather(?) Ridge across the highway from the resort. Lot's of fun steep lines and pillows on that side. 

Good stuff zag.


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## FacePlant4Free (Oct 19, 2011)

Thryll is talking about making the GoPro Hero2 one of their next big sales 

These will probably go fast as hell so everyone should try and pay attention. Of course i just got mine. O well.


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## ThunderChunky (Oct 1, 2011)

Sorry to create another zombie thread, but didn't wanna waste a thread on a simple question. What quality should I look for when looking for a snowboarding camera? Basically, what feature of the camera will allow good photos in really high light such as a blue bird day. Is it the shutter speed or what?


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

ThunderChunky said:


> Sorry to create another zombie thread, but didn't wanna waste a thread on a simple question. What quality should I look for when looking for a snowboarding camera? Basically, what feature of the camera will allow good photos in really high light such as a blue bird day. Is it the shutter speed or what?


Actually blue bird days are fairly easy on a camera. It's low light that requires a faster shutter speed and ISO which end up with grainy pictures.

Lately I've been using my Nokia N8 for everything. I don't even take my DSLR out anymore!!! 

The new PureView 808 looks pretty impressive. It'll take upwards of 38 MP pictures but it's really designed to take some stunning 8 MP or so pics. The flash (like the N8's flash) is like a point and shoot style instead of the typical LEDs on most camera phones. The optics are great for a camera phone, and yes it's actually a large sensor so that 38 MP or so isn't because they made the pixels smaller on the sensor.

If you want a traditional point and shoot, I've had good luck with the Canon SD series...


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## aubzobot (Feb 19, 2011)

Shutter speed- Length of time the shutter is open- longer the time the more light let in but your photo will be blurry if moved when at a low enough shutter speed

Aperture- How wide the lens opens which also controls the amount of light let in.

ISO- determines how sensitive the sensor is to light. 

If you wanted a shot that'd capture someone in midair, then you'd need a high shutter-speed, but low aperture to get enough light in. If you boost your ISO it will produce a brighter exposure, but will your photo will be grainy. 

But, unless your actually using a manual mode on a DSLR, then you probably won't need to worry about any of this though, because on a simple point and shoot your camera will control everything itself.


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