# Board suggestions � 6�2, 190 lbs



## Muddy4DSM (Sep 19, 2012)

*Board suggestions – 6’2, 190 lbs*

Hey everyone! This is my first post so I apologize in advance for joining up just to ask questions at this point, but you guys seem to know your stuff when it comes to helping people find the right boards.

As the title says, I’m about 6’2 and weigh anywhere between 185 and 195 lbs. I just got new boots last season, size 11 or so Burtons that are great (Basketball boots), but I’ve been riding the same Morrow board (158 or 161, I’ll have to double check) since I was in college so it’s going on about 7 years old. The bindings are just as old, Morrow as well and picked them up from a ski shop in Denver. Got a great deal, ended up being cheaper than renting for that trip so that’s what I have. I can’t remember the model, but it’s a pretty basic (non-rental!) board that from what I understand is pretty stiff but decent for what I ride.

As for experience, I get out to Colorado about once a year for the past 5-6 years and did a couple trips while I was in school too. We usually go about 4-5 days worth of riding each trip and hit a new place each trip. I stick mostly with the blue runs and blacks if I can find them without moguls, some powder, some trees, no pipe and always seem to crash out pretty hard in the terrain park so usually hit that once per trip. My fiancé skis so we usually stick together during the day

We just booked our plane and hotel for this December for Snowmass and since this is the first time we’ve really done this so far in advance, I want to look into a new board before the trip. I tried my friends Skate Banana last season and aside from an awkward binding setup, it wasn’t too bad. I’m up in the air on length (assume longer due to height and weight and lack of park time) and wondering about the wide vs. standard. I also stumbled across something from Burton last night about reverse camber that helps with fatigue, but don’t know if that’s legit.

I don’t have a set budget, but since I don’t go out but one trip a season at this point, don’t need to drop a ton of coin. Used works for me too, as long as it’s quality and not beat to hell. Sorry for the long drawn out post, but want to make sure I cover everything. Thanks in advance for any help!!

-Adam


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## TLN (Sep 7, 2010)

If you don't hit park i can say:
NS Rator X 164 
or heritage if you prefer softer(but why you need that?
Ride SPI/Union Force.

YOu can get bindings on ebay(i've checked it recently), probably same for the board.


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## Muddy4DSM (Sep 19, 2012)

Thanks for the quick reply. I may have found some UF bindings online, but not seeing anything great out there on that board. Will a 164 be a little long for trying to go through trees?


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## saudade101 (Nov 5, 2009)

I'm 6'3, ~190lbs, size 12 boot, and get away with a 25.6cm waist width. 
I don't think you'll need to go with the wider board option, but that's all dependent on the waist widths. There are a bunch of guides on the net as to the ideal waist width if you can't be bothered going into a store to get it checked out for yourself, so do that before looking at anything because you may end up disappointed...........
Otherwise you can do this;

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*The Boarder's Blog - Snowboard Width - Huh?

How wide of a snowboard do I need? Where is the width of a snowboard measured? What does width mean in terms of my boot size?

Let’s start by talking about measurements, because this is where a lot of the confusion arises. The most common width measurement that is provided by manufacturers is "waist". The waist is measured at the narrowest point near the middle of the board (usually). But like with all things in snowboarding, different brands measure different things. Some measure the midpoint between the tip and tail and call that "waist". Others simply provide a measurement they call, "width", but do not really specify what width they are referring to. 

If that has you a bit confused, don't worry, because regardless of where these "waist" measurements are taken, they are not very useful for what they are typically used for. Most people think that this measurement is a good indicator of what foot size a board will handle. It is not, and for a simple reason: you do not stand at the waist, you stand at the inserts. A board's waist measurement is always less than the measurement at the inserts and often the difference is significant. Additionally, two boards with the same waist dimension, may have very different measurements at the inserts, depending on each board's sidecut. Measurement at the center insert is a much better way to compare boards for shoe size compatibility, but for some odd reason, manufacturers do not publish this info.

OK, so now we have told you why we think the commonly provided measurements are pretty silly, but what good does that do you? You still need to know how to figure out the correct width for your new board. Well, here comes. There are two easy steps to getting it right every time. 

First, measure your bare foot. It is important that you do not try to use a boot size. It is also important that you measure in centimeters, because the board measurements that you will be comparing to will be in cm. Here is the method that we suggest:

Kick your heel (barefoot please, no socks) back against a wall. Mark the floor exactly at the tip of your toe (the one that sticks out furthest - which toe this is will vary by rider). Measure from the mark on the floor to the wall. That is your foot length and is the only measurement that you will want to use. Measure in centimeters if possible, but if not, take inches and multiply by 2.54 (example: an 11.25 inch foot x 2.54 = 28.57 centimeters). 

Second, measure the board you are considering. This measurement is easy. It should be taken at the inserts. Try to measure at the inserts that you will be using to achieve your stance position. If you are unsure about this, simply measure at the center of the insert cluster (that will still be very close). Be sure to measure using the base of the board, not the deck. This is important because the sidewalls on many boards are angled in, and will therefore give you a smaller measurement on the deck than on the base. For our example's sake, let's say the measurement is 27.54 at the center insert.

Still with us? You are almost done. You now have a way to compare foot size to board width where it matters, but how do you interpret this info to get the correct width? Well that depends a little on stance angle. If you ride a 0 degree stance, you will want your foot size to be the same as the width of the board at the inserts or up to 1 cm greater. If you ride at an angled stance, you will want to measure the board across at the angles that you will be riding. Again, you will want your foot to at least match this measurement or exceed it by up to 1 cm. So using our example above, this guy has a foot 28.57 cm that exceeds the board with at the inserts 27.54 cm by 1.03 cm at a zero degree angle. But, when he angles his feet to the 15 degree angles that he rides, voila, he has .10 cm of overhang for a perfect fit.

But wait a second. Are we saying that you should have overhang, even with bare feet? Yes. You will need overhang to be able to apply leverage to your edges and to get the most out of your board. 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch of boot overhang for both toe and heel is ideal, and will not create problematic toe or heel drag. Remember that boots typically add 1/2 at both the toe and heel to your foot measurement from above, due to padding, insulation and the outer boot materials. We do not suggest using the boot length to size boards though, as the extra padding etc, cannot be used well to create leverage, that has to come from your foot itself. We highly recommend that riders do not choose boards where their feet do not come to or exceed the real board width.

OK, that's all well and good, but where can you get the information on board width at the inserts if the manufacturers don't provide it? That's easy. Email the store that carries the board(s) that you are considering. Give them your foot length in cm (and your stance width and angles if you know them). They will be able to provide you with the width at the inserts that you will be using and can factor in your stance angle as well to get you the exact overhang that you will have with bare feet.

PS:

Once mounted, the best way to test is to put your (tightly laced) boots into your bindings and strap them in tightly. It is important that you have the heel pulled all the way back into the bindings heel cup or the test won’t help. On a carpeted floor place your board flat on its base. Kneel behind the heelside edge and lift that edge so that it rests on your knees and so that the toeside edge is angled down into the carpet. Now press down with both hands using firm pressure, one hand on each of the boots. This will compress the board's sidecut and simulate a turn on hard snow. You can change the angle of the board on your knees to become progressively steeper and you will be able to see at what angle you will start getting toe drag. You will want to repeat the test for your heelside as well. If you are not getting drag at normal turn and landing angles, then you are good to go.*



*PPS:

Also a note about boots: Boot design plays a big role in toe drag as does binding ramping and binding base height. Boots that have a solid bevel at the toe/heel drag less. Many freestyle boots push for more surface contact and reduce bevel. This helps with contact, but if you have a lot of overhang with those boots it hurts in terms of toe drag.

Now go ride! *

This was posted by Wiredsports, and is an excellent guide to waist widths and board selection. Good luck!


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## Soulace (Sep 10, 2012)

If you are ok with used gear, then check the forums on here, and also check out geartrade.com (probably my most favorite discovery since butterscotch pudding)


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## Weezy32 (Mar 15, 2012)

Lol i am 6'3 180 and pretty much want to know same thing as OP

Edit: will make my own thread as i do not want to hijack your thread.


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## TLN (Sep 7, 2010)

Muddy4DSM said:


> Thanks for the quick reply. I may have found some UF bindings online, but not seeing anything great out there on that board. Will a 164 be a little long for trying to go through trees?


I'm 6'5 and about 230 lbs with US 13 foot.
I'm running Never summer Legacy 174 board with 27.0 waist. 
Trees, jumps, carved turns. no problem at all. I think it's now the board, but skills. 

If you not hitting the park or rails, and you're a bit less 200 lbs, grap Raptor X, that's stiff board, with lots of energy in. Once you learn how to push this in caved turn you'll get way more fun, compared to softer boards. And it's stiffness won't be a problem in a trees or powder.
With US11 foot, i see no reason getting a regular width board, on a wide one, you'll be more comfortable + extra float in pow.

Check out videos: Keep in mind, that it's 174 board.


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## Muddy4DSM (Sep 19, 2012)

Well I took your advice and pulled the trigger on some neon green/yellow Union Force bindings this morning. I you had suggested it and from the tons of positive reviews I read I figured they couldn't be a bad way to go. I I did a little research on my board and found out it is a Morrow Blaze 158.


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## TLN (Sep 7, 2010)

Muddy4DSM said:


> I I did a little research on my board and found out it is a Morrow Blaze 158.


Don't ever buy this =) 
Get a normal board. Do some more research and get a never summer, ride or whatever.


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## Muddy4DSM (Sep 19, 2012)

Too late, that's the board I bought in 2005 as my cheap beginner board. That and bindings cost me like $150US and lasted me til now. I'm sure you can see why I would be interested in upgrading, haha!


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## TLN (Sep 7, 2010)

Oh, you already own this. I thought you wanna get this as your new board. 
Now you gotta get a nice board to mount your forces on.
If you're riding from '05 you gotta have some skills. I bet raptor x 160cm+ will be fine. Get a 164, if you're not going to hit rails and pipe, if you like speed and freeride, you won't regret.


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## Muddy4DSM (Sep 19, 2012)

Speed isn’t as important for me. I can get going fast enough for my tastes and due to my weight seem to actually move pretty quick down the hill. I’ve had bad luck with catching edges with my current board and have bit it pretty hard in the past so I try to keep the speed under control. I also steer clear of the terrain park because I catch those edges so easily so any jumps and even little rollers can mess me up pretty bad. I actually knocked myself out last year catching a heel edge while riding down on my toe side. I’d like to learn how to do boxes and stuff but have the hardest time coasting without catching an edge. All this could be from lack of experience, or could be a cheap board but I haven’t really had a chance to try anything different besides my friends Skate Banana so anything I try will hopefully be an improvement.


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## TLN (Sep 7, 2010)

I just thought, as you said you're not goinginto park, that you're not freestyle guy. There's no alot to choose from: either freestyle of freeride =)) 
I cannot advice something for jumps or rails. Personaly i've hit the rails and boxes with Legacy-R 174(!!!) and at least i was able to do some 5m kinked rails. 

I think you gotta decide what you would like to do: either jumps and rails or all mountain and trees.

You told that you have been riding from 2005, right? If you're riding from that time, and still catching and edge, you're doind something really wrong. I think it took 2 years for me, till i stopped catching edges. But i can still get into troubles:




That's me in march )


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## Muddy4DSM (Sep 19, 2012)

I would rather have an all mountain type board, but don’t want something that would be impossible to try out jumps and experiment a bit. I’m only out there for about 4 days a season so although I have years of experience, I’m nowhere close to a season pass holder anywhere out there. As for the catching edges, you’re probably right – I’m probably doing something wrong. I think it’s the confidence to give up one of my edges and coast and concentrating on not swinging around one way or the other leading up to a feature or landing from one. I don’t do it often so when I do it’s pretty much a mess, haha.

Would the Heritage add a little more versatility to the board being less stiff when compared to the Raptor?


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## TLN (Sep 7, 2010)

Muddy4DSM said:


> Would the Heritage add a little more versatility to the board being less stiff when compared to the Raptor?


Sure.

You can consider something like SL also. Seems that you don't have any special preference, so grab any that fit you right. Legacy is a nice choice for big-footers.


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## Muddy4DSM (Sep 19, 2012)

Found a MONSTER ENERGY 09 DANNY KASS GNU BTX SNOWBOARD brand new in a 155cm. Price is asking at $200. Thoughts on that board? It's brand new.


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## irrballsac (Dec 31, 2011)

Muddy4DSM said:


> Found a MONSTER ENERGY 09 DANNY KASS GNU BTX SNOWBOARD brand new in a 155cm. Price is asking at $200. Thoughts on that board? It's brand new.


That's a park board... its a little short for your purpose/ style. While with most mervin boards you can go a little shorter, but i dont think i would drop that low. I'm 6'3, 200 lbs w/ a 13 boot, and i love my lib tech lando phoenix 157w. I also love doing all mountain, hitting a few boxes and rails, but mostly riding through trees, and carving out some nice runs. 

I wouldn't recommend going any lower than you're at now with 158, unless there is tech there to help support it, like lib tech/ gnu, and a few other companies have. (From what I understand you have around 2-3cms you can shave off with some)


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## Muddy4DSM (Sep 19, 2012)

Well I ended up pulling the trigger on a 2013 Attack Banana, 159. Should be here this week sometime. I liked the idea of the Heritage but if I ever take it out around here (Chicago area) the Lib Tech magna traction feature could end up working out really nice. Thanks for all your help guys!


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