# RaceWax waxing kit..thoughts?



## Oldman

RaceWax is a solid operation.

Good looking deal, but the only thing that I would caution you on is the vice. That looks to me like a ski vice and it will not be wide enough to work for a snowboard.


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## francium

yep they're ski vices


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## kriegs13

Glad I asked! Is there any set of vise that are "standard" or well loved. I've only used the swix vise that my buddy has. It did the trick but not sure if there's anything else I should look at. 


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## poutanen

Burton vices are fantastic... bottle opener included! :embarrased1:


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## Oldman

Ok, I view tools as investments and tend to get the "right one" the first time and never purchase it again.

This is the set of snowboard vices from Toko, Snowboard Vice 2.0. I have had them for 6 years now. They are the bomb and I'm never buying another set. Pricey, yes, but over time, priceless.

Cheers


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## snowklinger

my first...and current wax setup cost like 20 bucks.

do whatever.


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## kriegs13

snowklinger said:


> my first...and current wax setup cost like 20 bucks.
> 
> do whatever.


Yeah, thats why I was originally on amazon trying to piece one together. I'm not at all committed to a pre batched kit. The only part I was leaning towards for snowboard specific was the iron to avoid having to clean out holes and also because they look to be more compact. 

The vise thing was something I was going to not do and opt for saw horses in my basement but after using my buddies last month, I started to consider how convenient a portable vise set would be. 

I figure the brushes and files can come from the hardware store or something. Got drawn in to the kit I mentioned because it included the iron and vise set but I don't want to waste my time if they're ski specific.


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## Lamps

Oldman said:


> Ok, I view tools as investments and tend to get the "right one" the first time and never purchase it again.
> 
> This is the set of snowboard vices from Toko, Snowboard Vice 2.0. I have had them for 6 years now. They are the bomb and I'm never buying another set. Pricey, yes, but over time, priceless.
> 
> Cheers


I have the Toko vises too, they are great. I bought a wax/tuning kit when I first started, I subsequently read someone who said they are just a bunch of shiny objects, and I immediately realized the truth in that. I did get a nice iron and a little shaving bag full of junk, some ptex sticks, 3" squares of sandpaper etc. and a crappy file holder. 

Subsequently i read this article: 

Tuning - The Carver's Almanac

I went back to a shop and bought:

Toko vises
Gummy stone 
Fine and medium diamond file
Plastic and brass brush
Swix metal file holder and file (this is key item, those plastic ones are junk, with the little 2" section of file)
Some all temp wax

I bought some green scrubby pads from the grocery store

I watched some YouTube videos and practiced on old boards. 

Waxing is easy, and you can't really do any harm unless you leave the iron on your board and go have a beer. 

Sharpening is a bit trickier, I practiced on older stuff first, and my kids boards. 

So I'd say skip the kits and buy the key items unless you see a kit with real stuff in it.


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## Craig64

Agree Toko gear is brilliant. That's generally all that I buy. 

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## dannyboy617

I bough my kit from RaceWax.

Great people. I have gone back and forth with them on email and text asking them questions.

I would recommend buying their kits, but go for the orange colored edge guide tool. It is way more substantial then those red ones. Had adjustable angles 0.5-5 degrees.


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## Fielding

Waxing is relaxing. And fun. And smells good. I like waxin and drinking beer. It's what I do late at night while I'm plotting my next moves. RaceWax sells quality stuff and Marc who I believe runs the show there is a standup dude --even though I'm pretty sure he's a skier. 

Having good wax gear is awesome. Get scrapers in a few different thicknesses. They're cheap and they wear out (until you re-edge them). Might as well get a few scrapers. The thick one that racewax sells is a beast. Takes wax off like magic. Thinner ones are also good to have. I'm less fond of the clear plexi scrapers. Scrape. Then brush. Then brush more. Brushing is the goddamn best. Open up the structure. Work that wax in. Take off the excess. Polish it nice. Make that base shine like an expensive casket. My best advice: get their set of three brushes (brass, nylon, horsey) for $30:

RaceWax Ski Wax Brush Kit Snowboard Set of Three, Nylon - HorseHair - Brass - racewax 

I bought that kit more than a few years ago and it's great. I use it multiple times per week through the winter months. Got a major quiver you need to keep waxed up? A family worth of boards? You're just wasting so much time if you don't get some roto brush gear. Makes boards so damn nice. Definitely spendy if you're just getting into waxing though. You gotta do the cost/benefit.

Next thing to consider: which wax you gonna buy? Maybe you're satisfied with Deeznutz Wax or that other "all temp" wax that comes in those cool Rastafarian color scheme blocks that the local shop is marketing to snowboarders this season. Yes, I do appreciate the fact that it comes with a free sticker for my helmet. But there's a next level: determine where and when you're gonna ride and get a wax that's made for the air/snow temps and snow type you'll be sliding on. No real reason to pay big bucks. Hydrocarbon waxes and low fluoro waxes are cheap and will improve your glide a lot. Swix products are super nice. They feel sooo good when you work with them. And they ride great. Buy a big ass block of Swix yellow or red (do they still make it?). The racewax house brand waxes I've tried have all been very good too. But they don't smell European enough for me. If you're super into speed and glide and you really want to absolutely get the most out of your board then consider some fluoro overlays. Basically, at this point, there is something seriously wrong with you if you are not actually racing on your board. But I know that when I put a healthy sprinkle of Swix Cera F on my board before I go out carving I feel it. Even if it's all in my head that's OK with me. I have RaceWax house brand overlays that cost cheap money and also work very nicely. If you're playing with fluoro shit make sure you protect your health.

Buy some wax remover. But never put wax remover on the base of your board unless you're doing base repair. Use that cool Rasta color wax to hot scrape instead of using wax remover. 

Make vices if you're handy. You don't really need them unless you are doing edge work. If you are doing edge work then you need them. For waxing you can get away with some wood stands. Absolutely do take your bindings off when you're going at your board with a hot iron. Don't be lazy. You'll dimple your board and maybe worse. You've got a real wax iron right? You should get one if you don't have one. Don't fuckup your board with some repurposed clothes iron. It's not just a different shape. A wax iron should have less of a temp swing. Buy one.

Watch the Toko Willi videos.

Final step: build a hot box. No, it's not that car thing you and you're friends used to do in high school.


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## Fielding

Lamps said:


> Subsequently i read this article:
> 
> Tuning - The Carver's Almanac


Yes. Yes. Yes.


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## Craig64

Fielding said:


> Waxing is relaxing. And fun. And smells good. I like waxin and drinking beer. It's what I do late at night while I'm plotting my next moves. RaceWax sells quality stuff and Marc who I believe runs the show there is a standup dude --even though I'm pretty sure he's a skier.
> 
> Having good wax gear is awesome. Get scrapers in a few different thicknesses. They're cheap and they wear out (until you re-edge them). Might as well get a few scrapers. The thick one that racewax sells is a beast. Takes wax off like magic. Thinner ones are also good to have. I'm less fond of the clear plexi scrapers. Scrape. Then brush. Then brush more. Brushing is the goddamn best. Open up the structure. Work that wax in. Take off the excess. Polish it nice. Make that base shine like an expensive casket. My best advice: get their set of three brushes (brass, nylon, horsey) for $30:
> 
> RaceWax Ski Wax Brush Kit Snowboard Set of Three, Nylon - HorseHair - Brass - racewax
> 
> I bought that kit more than a few years ago and it's great. I use it multiple times per week through the winter months. Got a major quiver you need to keep waxed up? A family worth of boards? You're just wasting so much time if you don't get some roto brush gear. Makes boards so damn nice. Definitely spendy if you're just getting into waxing though. You gotta do the cost/benefit.
> 
> Next thing to consider: which wax you gonna buy? Maybe you're satisfied with Deeznutz Wax or that other "all temp" wax that comes in those cool Rastafarian color scheme blocks that the local shop is marketing to snowboarders this season. Yes, I do appreciate the fact that it comes with a free sticker for my helmet. But there's a next level: determine where and when you're gonna ride and get a wax that's made for the air/snow temps and snow type you'll be sliding on. No real reason to pay big bucks. Hydrocarbon waxes and low fluoro waxes are cheap and will improve your glide a lot. Swix products are super nice. They feel sooo good when you work with them. And they ride great. Buy a big ass block of Swix yellow or red (do they still make it?). The racewax house brand waxes I've tried have all been very good too. But they don't smell European enough for me. If you're super into speed and glide and you really want to absolutely get the most out of your board then consider some fluoro overlays. Basically, at this point, there is something seriously wrong with you if you are not actually racing on your board. But I know that when I put a healthy sprinkle of Swix Cera F on my board before I go out carving I feel it. Even if it's all in my head that's OK with me. I have RaceWax house brand overlays that cost cheap money and also work very nicely. If you're playing with fluoro shit make sure you protect your health.
> 
> Buy some wax remover. But never put wax remover on the base of your board unless you're doing base repair. Use that cool Rasta color wax to hot scrape instead of using wax remover.
> 
> Make vices if you're handy. You don't really need them unless you are doing edge work. If you are doing edge work then you need them. For waxing you can get away with some wood stands. Absolutely do take your bindings off when you're going at your board with a hot iron. Don't be lazy. You'll dimple your board and maybe worse. You've got a real wax iron right? You should get one if you don't have one. Don't fuckup your board with some repurposed clothes iron. It's not just a different shape. A wax iron should have less of a temp swing. Buy one.
> 
> Watch the Toko Willi videos.
> 
> Final step: build a hot box. No, it's not that car thing you and you're friends used to do in high school.


Good post. Rotor brushes are the go. I do heaps of boards and they are absolutely brilliant. Bit of an initial outlay up front but I only now take my hand brushes to Japan. Rotor brushes are so quick and bring up a great structure. I use Hertal FC739 great wax.

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## Craig64

Have a Toko T8 in both 240 and 110 volt. This is a great easy affordable wax iron. Have grabbed them for just over $Au50 each from snowinn and amazon.

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