# Waxing Kits - Not your average question



## Xenth (Dec 8, 2010)

Hey,

So this is my first time posting here, been lurking over the past few days as I have been getting more into boarding. Main reason due to me actually having my own mode of transportation to the mountain and not having to rely on a ride lol...I have had my own gear for 2 seasons now and am in the process of buying boots due to me outgrowing my old ones, but thats a topic for another thread. Anyways, my question is do waxing kits ever go on sale on like boxing day for example or are they like some things that if they do go on sale its like a 5% savings? I've been reading tons on waxing and how important it is, thanks Snowwolf for the Waxing Video's and countless responses to threads which answered many of my quests btw, and looked like something I could do easily myself (for the most part im a diy kind of guy). I have read all the suggestions to just get a cheap old iron, etc but I really would like a kit as an easy container for storage as well as I figure I my-swell buy one now instead of a couple years down the road.

So the kits I have been considering in order of where I would rank them...lol (I live in Canada btw)

1) Tools4boards Superstation - https://www.tools4boards.com/US-SuperStation.html
2) Dakine Super Tuning Kit - DAKINE Super Tune Tuning Kit - USA from Backcountry.com
3) Sport Chek Kit (Iron seperate from waxing kit) - Toko Tuning Promo Kit - SportChek.ca and Kuusport Snowboard and Ski Wax Iron - SportChek.ca


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## ev13wt (Nov 22, 2010)

Crazy gear freak!

Just get a cheap old iron (Or new cheap), cover it with left over stickers. Get a small tupperware box where it fits inside with the rest of the crap. Buy a cold wax stick and an all temp wax. Get 2 of the plastic scrapers and some scotch brite pads and if you wanna overdo it, get a brush. 

Done. Let a shop do your edges once a year. The machine is just better than any file guide.

Cover tupperware box with more stickers.


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## hpin (Feb 11, 2010)

:thumbsup: for Tools4boards.


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## DuncanShea (Feb 2, 2008)

I just ditched my old cheap wax iron for a Toko T14. I think a digital wax iron with a thick base makes all the difference in the world. The old iron would not hold a constant temp (thin base plate, porr thermostat), was hard to get the right temp, and took forever to get the wax evenly melted. 

I also strongly suggest waxing paper. Cut the amount of scrapping by more than half.

Check out Tognar for a great tool selection
Ski Snowboard Wax Waxing Irons Tools Scrapers Brushes Tognar


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## Milo303 (Apr 6, 2009)

Don't use a crappy iron like ev1 is saying.... The heating element in it is very unreliable and doesn't hold a constant temp. You can burn your base and wax very easily. 

Really you don't need to buy some kit either... I've pieced all my stuff together along the way.

Grab some oneballjay wax, a real iron, maybe a swix or something, and get a decent scraper thats only like 3"-4" wide or so... 

Tognar has all of this stuff except oneballjay I think... Tognar is the shit


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## Milo303 (Apr 6, 2009)

And all temp wax isn't good for all temperatures.... It has a range just like every other wax, and if you want to slide, you get the right wax. I can't stand the velcro feeling, it drives me insane...


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## Chris2347 (Nov 7, 2009)

umm I ended up piecing my kit together as well, went the the local shop, got a dakine iron and a big block of all temp KUU wax that they use in the back, and they threw in half a block cold temp wax and a scraper so yea i'd suggest checking out your local shops


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## ev13wt (Nov 22, 2010)

40 bucks for an iron lol. Ok if you want to, go for it.


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## Xenth (Dec 8, 2010)

Mmm... I don't have the money to pay $120 now for the a good wax iron, just trying to getting a starting setup if you know what I mean Ok, so in your guys opinions the 3 in 1 file guides are inaccurate? I'm a welder so I would say I have a decent amount of experience with filing, working with metal etc; however, my "skills" can only take me so far if the tool I'm using is inaccurate lol...so yes or no on the 3-1 file guides or just take it into the shop once a year like ev13wt suggested? Another issue I face is there really is no board shops in my town, I have Sport Chek and Source for Sports lol... however, I could take the hour drive into Vancouver and check out shops there.


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## mysterl33 (Jan 25, 2010)

I was just going to make a thread like this haha

How are edge tuners? are they necessary when I'm waxing my board? I was thinking of buying this One Ball Jay Edger Tuning Kit - Snowboard Shop > Snow Accessories > Snowboard Tune and Wax and then buying a scraper and using an old iron. but it seems using a household iron could be bad for the board.. so maybe I'll get a iron for 35 bucks? So lost right now on what to do haha trying to do everything with spending the least money.


Files or Stone? which one is better? aren;t they both for deburring and detuning edges?


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## DuncanShea (Feb 2, 2008)

mysterl33 said:


> I was just going to make a thread like this haha
> 
> How are edge tuners? are they necessary when I'm waxing my board? I was thinking of buying this One Ball Jay Edger Tuning Kit - Snowboard Shop > Snow Accessories > Snowboard Tune and Wax and then buying a scraper and using an old iron. but it seems using a household iron could be bad for the board.. so maybe I'll get a iron for 35 bucks? So lost right now on what to do haha trying to do everything with spending the least money.
> 
> ...


I would use an old household iron over a cheap wax iron. You will know you are too hot if the wax smokes when you melt the wax against it. There is no way you could damage the base if your temperature is lower than the smoke point of the wax. And a household iron should have a thicker heavier base than the cheap wax irons.


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## mysterl33 (Jan 25, 2010)

DuncanShea said:


> I would use an old household iron over a cheap wax iron. You will know you are too hot if the wax smokes when you melt the wax against it. There is no way you could damage the base if your temperature is lower than the smoke point of the wax. And a household iron should have a thicker heavier base than the cheap wax irons.


yea I decided to go that route.. ordered the tune kit + wax and scraper. Now just have to go find the iron. Any suggestions?


BTW OP, you should just get this if you don't want to spend too much. One Ball Jay Tune kit The Edge tuner itself costs about 15 so I think it's a pretty good deal. Ordered one for myself. Found out there are a few varieties of things like that.


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## Milo303 (Apr 6, 2009)

My iron was like $30.... You don't need a high end one, just one made for waxing sticks. It will have the higher quality guts that will hold a steady temperature and burn your shit.


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## extra0 (Jan 16, 2010)

I got the same tools4boards kit a few years ago - paid something like $60 on ebay, new. Pretty hassle free for beginners. Came with a super solid iron (maplus), a 3-in-1 edge tool (5 bevel choices) and instructions. Only thing I didn't like was the base brush is so small, the corners dug into my hands (I've since bought a couple full size brushes)

...and I'm still using that same iron, edge tool and plastic scraper (which I sand sharp before every wax)...still haven't even used up all the p-tex candles (close).

Pretty sure the dakine kit has an inferior edge tool (only one bevel choice and a standard 90 deg...which, technically, isn't a bevel). Other than that, it's similar kit for le$$.


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## Lstarrasl (Mar 26, 2010)

You guys are nuts. $6 Iron at Target, done. Turn to medium. Wax board, scrape, Ride.


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## MistahTaki (Apr 24, 2010)

tools4boards FTW!


but really, all you need is a candle and your drivers license.


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## extra0 (Jan 16, 2010)

^I hope you're kidding


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## Xelorz (Nov 4, 2010)

Xenth said:


> Mmm... I don't have the money to pay $120 now for the a good wax iron, just trying to getting a starting setup if you know what I mean


No need. Its not rocket science. A 30-40 buck iron is more then enough. In fact most of the more experienced boarders I know just use walmart irons. They work just as well so long as you're comfortable with waxing and keep it moving.


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## --bigtime-- (Sep 10, 2010)

MistahTaki said:


> tools4boards FTW!
> 
> 
> but really, all you need is a candle and your drivers license.


^^^That was Awesome^^^


I personally use Birthday Cake Candles and my dad's credit card. Boom, done!


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## MistahTaki (Apr 24, 2010)

--bigtime-- said:


> ^^^That was Awesome^^^
> 
> 
> I personally use Birthday Cake Candles and my dad's credit card. Boom, done!


that' the way you do it my friend.


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## Xenth (Dec 8, 2010)

Alright so I have decided upon the T4B Kit, thanks for all the help so far guys. Much appreciated 

On a side note, do you guys think it would be worth it to purchase a full sized brass brush along with the kit and what is your guys opinions on the 3-1 tools?


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## extra0 (Jan 16, 2010)

with all due respect (snowolf's videos first convinced me I could hot wax at home), not everyone will quickly get to the proficiency of being able to use a metal scraper for wax. Yeah, it's faster, but the metal scraper is originally in the kit to scrape off the excess p-tex mounds when filling gouges/core shots (and to shield the base from unwanted melted p-tex). Frequent use of this aggressive scraper for wax jobs, by novices such as us, can prematurely deplete the structure.

The 3 in 1 tool is used to sharpen the edge only after the burs have been removed/sanded with the included whetstone. These burs are too hard and will dull the shallow file on the tool. Eventually, you will sharpen away enough metal that the sidewall will start getting in the way - that's when you put the deep/panzar file in the tool and shave the sidewall flush to the metal. Like the metal scraper, the panzar file is too aggressive to use first (I learned that the hard way).

buying a brass brush was also snowolf's influence...I can't imagine not having one. I use it only to prep the base for waxing - it gets a lot of the old dirty wax out of the structure. I think it's a bit too aggressive for a final brushing (I use a stiff nylon brush for that)...but I'm a relative novice.


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## Xenth (Dec 8, 2010)

Alright, so here is the list so far...

T4B Kit
Brass Brush
Get edges done at shop

So, my follow up question is if I should get a diamond stone or gummy stone, what is the difference between them, and if I should get coarse/medium/or fine? Oh, and the edges I should get a 1-2 degree max on both base and side for a all mountain rider correct?


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## extra0 (Jan 16, 2010)

as a waxing beginner, you might be jumping the gun a bit with the stones. The kit already comes with one good enough to de-bur.

...instead, I'd invest in a full size nylon bristle brush (the brush included in the kit is "travel size"). This brush wisks the last bit of wax out of the base structure at the very end of a wax job. I reccommend buying one the same coarse stifness as the the one that comes included (there are finer nylon brushes, but they're kinda advanced for racers)


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