# Ptex Repairs?



## Jeklund (Dec 14, 2009)

I think the way to get the best results is with a ptex gun but they do cost a lot more than just using a stick of the stuff and a lighter. Ive only ever used a stick because it came with my tuning kit. The way to do it is to just light the end of the stick on with a lighter or something and try to keep the flame blue then just drip the ptex into the crack. After you drip the ptex in let it cool off then scrape it and wax. The thing about using the sticks is that if you use the clear stuff it has a tendency to burn and turn it into more of a brown color, but if you use the black stuff it seems to maintain a solid black color and look decent. Last year i used the clear stuff on my board and it kinda turned brown when i put it in. I was kind of pissed that it happened but I eventually just accepted it. The repair has held up really well so far and if it starts to wear away its not hard at all to drop some more into it. Of course if you get the gun i hear you don't really have any of those problems because it takes most of the guess work out as you just fire the stuff into the scratch let it cool and scrape. I plan to pick one up later this year once i get some more cash.


----------



## Method (Apr 3, 2009)

As the post above stated if you use the clear the carbon burns in it. Constantly rotating the stick is a good way to avoid that and also to simply blow out the flame on the stick after you see you have some drippage and as if it were a crayon rub the wet end to the gash a few times, will take a little longer but it's also a safer option to avoid burning,Really shouldn't need a p-tex gun, just do a couple practice drips on some paper till you can avoid the charing. it's pretty simple :thumbsup:

and then simply a plastic scraper which you probably already have if you wax to scrape off any excess p-tex when it dries



Day was good till about 10:15 haha, once great escape broke everyone but a few nubs had to congregate on the express... I bailed around 11. Had some good runs till then though . ran over who knows how many rocks going through the pow, yay for rock boards and not caring cause it was worth it


----------



## Milo303 (Apr 6, 2009)

You don't sand the excess p-tex, you scrape it off with a razor blade. Run the blade backwards over the p-tex a bunch of times and it will eventually scrape off. It'll look like this /___ not \____ \___ you will dig into your base with the razor blade, don't do that.

I prefer black p-tex myself but a lot of people claim there's no difference between black and clear.

You want to light the candle on fire, once it gets going you want to make sure you keep spinning it slowly or else you will find it kind of bending on the end and such.. You also may want to practice on a chunk or cardboard or something to figure out how the drip works.


----------



## BurtonAvenger (Aug 14, 2007)

Little trick for you guys worrying about carbon burn get an empty pop or beer can and roll the ptex around the lip that usually catches the carbon and pulls it out too.


----------



## Milo303 (Apr 6, 2009)

Well shit, I don't drink pop and my beer comes in bottles.... I will figure something out though. 

Good tip BA I'll try it out


----------



## mtmgiants (Sep 30, 2008)

i did a lot of ptex work on my park board today and my main tip when using the candle/drip method is to not let the flame get to big, if it does it is almost guaranteed to leave black residue. You can do this by keeping the candle really close to the base. You will see the flame flicker right before it would go out, when it does pull it slightly away from the base, it will continue to burn then put it almost against the base again. Hope this makes sense


----------



## Milo303 (Apr 6, 2009)

mtmgiants said:


> i did a lot of ptex work on my park board today and my main tip when using the candle/drip method is to not let the flame get to big, if it does it is almost guaranteed to leave black residue. You can do this by keeping the candle really close to the base. You will see the flame flicker right before it would go out, when it does pull it slightly away from the base, it will continue to burn then put it almost against the base again. Hope this makes sense


I've tried that and I couldn't get a good bond for some reason. I never have a crazy flame, but I get a decent drip going. I like to have a little bit of impact from my drip. 

I'm curious if what you're saying is the same thing I'm thinking


----------



## rephreshed (Aug 21, 2010)

BurtonAvenger said:


> Little trick for you guys worrying about carbon burn get an empty pop or beer can and roll the ptex around the lip that usually catches the carbon and pulls it out too.


you called it pop :laugh:

i know nothing about ptex but that made me giggle. sorry!


----------



## Milo303 (Apr 6, 2009)

It is pop...


----------



## rephreshed (Aug 21, 2010)

from where i'm from it's called soda.. hence why it made me giggle. and now i'm done jacking this thread!


----------



## Milo303 (Apr 6, 2009)

Ya I'm just teasing you back ( =

I grew up in Kansas, we called it pop. Seems like northerners call it soda... And easterners


----------



## BurtonAvenger (Aug 14, 2007)

If your flame is getting big you're holding it too far away you should have that shit burning in such a steady stream there isn't time for the flame to get big. When I do repairs for customers my candle is so close to the board it's filling the gouge completely as I move it. Drip method causes carbon.


----------



## shifty00 (Oct 17, 2010)

If you worried about carbon on the clear why couldn't you use a soldering iron with a wide tip to hold to the stick and burn it off that way? There would be no flame so shouldn't get carbon right?
And it is defiantly POP but in Philly it is soda? go figure.


----------



## mtmgiants (Sep 30, 2008)

yeah milo im not talking about like crayon-ing it on just getting a big flame, bringing it close to the board to let it run into the ding then pulling it away before the flame goes out


----------



## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

BurtonAvenger said:


> If your flame is getting big you're holding it too far away you should have that shit burning in such a steady stream there isn't time for the flame to get big. When I do repairs for customers my candle is so close to the board it's filling the gouge completely as I move it. Drip method causes carbon.


What BA says, no carbon or yellowing, also use a good and sharp 1" woodworking chisel instead of a razor blade...assuming you know how to use a chisel with proper form, the correct side and resharpen often; it will shave it flat on one pass.


----------



## bakesale (Nov 28, 2008)

i've been doing the ptex drip method for years and sometimes fuck up and it burns. thought about getting a gun. Goes anyone know if a good ole crafting glue gun accommodates ptex candles and gets hot enough to melt it?


----------



## HoboMaster (May 16, 2010)

wrathfuldeity said:


> What BA says, no carbon or yellowing, also use a good and sharp 1" woodworking chisel instead of a razor blade...assuming you know how to use a chisel with proper form, the correct side and resharpen often; it will shave it flat on one pass.


I have about 10 chisels in my garage, most of them are dull though, they just need a quick trip on the belt sander. I do construction with my dad, so I'm pretty DIY savvy. I'm gonna wait till rockboarding season is over to make the repairs, but it will be nice to be able to repair my own boards.

Thanks for the info guys.


----------



## mmont16 (Jan 31, 2012)

Sorry for the bump guys. Just a quick few questions though, 

How well does ptex work after it's applied and scraped? Is there a noticeable difference when riding? 

Is it safe to ptex a core shot on the edge? Something like this: http://i.imgur.com/Taj1v.jpg

Also, i've heard using black ptex is better, is this true?


----------



## CheeseForSteeze (May 11, 2011)

BA is right; the ptex should flow smoothly into the gouge like you're welding it. If you keep it at the right distance (very close but not touching), rotate it correctly there will be a barely visible blue flame and basically no carbon. It's kind of like brazing. I start my bead in my metal scraper and once it's flowing good move it onto the gouge.


----------



## legallyillegal (Oct 6, 2008)

sand the gouge, blue flame, metal scraper, done


----------



## linvillegorge (Jul 6, 2009)

mmont16 said:


> Sorry for the bump guys. Just a quick few questions though,
> 
> How well does ptex work after it's applied and scraped? Is there a noticeable difference when riding?
> 
> ...


That little gouge? Just throw a little p-tex in there and forget about it. It'll have no impact whatsoever. If it falls out, put some more in there. Black or clear? Use whichever you have laying around. I generally have clear laying around because I have boards with all kinds of different bases. The clear blends in fairly well. I used black too and haven't noticed any difference between clear and black.

Will there be any difference? Yeah. The p-tex section will not absorb wax like the rest of the base. However, the small amount of base impacted by the p-tex fill will not create a noticeable difference. If you have a big enough gouge to create a noticeable impact, then you're likely looking at a base weld, not a p-tex repair. Just like my buddy from the past weekend. A lurking sharp as hell snow snake took out about a 1"x3" chunk out of the base of his board. We threw a p-tex repair in there to get him through the day, but he's taking it into the NS factory this week and I'm sure they're gonna do a base weld on it.


----------



## mhaas (Nov 25, 2007)

word of caution: dont let that shit drip on your skin. I had a little blob, about 3/8 inch long, drip on my finger and it went down burned the entire layer of skin. Ive been dealing with an annoying scab for about a month and counting.


----------

