# How to slide bindings toe side?



## fr3nzy (Jan 22, 2018)

The wife and I got new boards and my NS Maverix is on the wider side when put up against my size 7 boot. On the board thread I have going, someone mentioned to slide the bindings toward the toeside to help with toeside carving.

I experienced this first hand when demoing the board last week and figured "I'll just slide my bindings toeside when I get my board"

Got our boards today but the disc (even when rotated so the slots for screws run width-wise) only for the 4cm wide of the pattern. The only way to move the binding forward would be to use 3 screws, instead of 4, and one of the holes for the Burton channel system. I'm attaching a pic so you can see what I mean.

Is using just the 3 screws safe? I've already slid the heal cup in as far as it will go, but I still have more overhang on my heal than toe. It may ride fine like this, won't know until I can get out in about 2 weeks, so figured I'd use this time to ask.

For the record, in case I was unclear. I have the bindings set up with 4 screws like normal (i.e. centered width-wise on the board) but am asking of I could line them up with the 3 holes pictured here if I don't have enough toeside leverage once I get out and actually ride this thing.

**Edit to include bindings:
Bindings are Rome Vice.










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## t21 (Dec 29, 2010)

That should be fine. I have my K2 hologram binding on my Charlie slasher that i can only line up using three screws,it holds up well.


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## Snow Hound (Jul 21, 2012)

Which bindings are they?


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## fr3nzy (Jan 22, 2018)

Should've put that up top. Bindings are Rome Vice (picked up on insane sale).


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## neni (Dec 24, 2012)

Three screws would be enough to hold bindings firmly.

However, have you tried the board with centered (toe/heel wise) bindings already and feel that you really want more off center leverage at all?
I ride my Mav with centered bindings (24.4cm feet and the board is abt 27cm wide at the insets). The shortness, flex and middle rocker make it no issue at all to put force on the toe edge.

Shifting the bindings can be a solition _if_ you really need more toe leverage, but comes with the price of loss of thereof at heel. A compromise I'd only do _if_ needed . If you haven't tried the board centered yet, I'd first mount them centered to check.


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## natty99 (Nov 15, 2017)

neni said:


> Three screws would be enough to hold bindings firmly.
> 
> However, have you tried the board with centered (toe/weel wise) bindings already and feel that you realky want more off center leverage at all?
> I ride my Mav with centered bindings (24.4cm feet and the board is abt 27cm wide at the insets). The shortness, flex and middle rocker make it no issue at all to put force on the toe edge.
> ...


Exactly what neni said. 

Don't be so eager to shift those bindings toe-side to create extra leverage if it makes your boot off-centered on the (width of the) board. Based on other threads/posts, it sounds like you are still learning to ride...and I would hate for you to 'cheat' and not learn how to really bend those knees, apply pressure to both your heel and toe side, and really drive those edges using technique vs. equipment. Once you get those fundamentals down and STILL feel like you need more leverage toe side, then maybe consider shifting the bindings. However, good riders, IMO, do not need these tweaks to make them ride effectively.

I see you're in Denver...if you ever want to ride together, hit me up. I'm a Never Summer fanboy as well :storm:


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## fr3nzy (Jan 22, 2018)

neni said:


> Three screws would be enough to hold bindings firmly.
> 
> However, have you tried the board with centered (toe/heel wise) bindings already and feel that you really want more off center leverage at all?
> I ride my Mav with centered bindings (24.4cm feet and the board is abt 27cm wide at the insets). The shortness, flex and middle rocker make it no issue at all to put force on the toe edge.
> ...


Nope. I plan to ride centered first, this was just a preemptive, "can I do this" should the need arise.

Thanks for the advice.

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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

Move the binding so that *your foot is centered* (not necessarily your binding) over the mid-line of the board. Maybe adjust your leading binding angle, if needed. There is a angle sweet spot for toeside leverage. Over the years mine has moved from 9 to 12 and now 15 degrees. Also remember to really drive the leading knee in to the toeside carve/turn and add you hip and shoulder rotation.

Another thing you might be able to do, is to raise your ankle strap higher so that you can get a higher leverage and thus more leverage for toeside. Or just use a power strap on your lead leg to lock down a higher leverage point on your boot cuff/highback

Lastly, you might consider moving your leading binding/foot a tad closer to the nose so that you can increase pressure and get an earlier engagement of the nose contact points.


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## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

natty99 said:


> Exactly what neni said.
> 
> Don't be so eager to shift those bindings toe-side to create extra leverage if it makes your boot off-centered on the (width of the) board. Based on other threads/posts, it sounds like you are still learning to ride...and I would hate for you to 'cheat' and not learn how to really bend those knees, apply pressure to both your heel and toe side, and really drive those edges using technique vs. equipment. Once you get those fundamentals down and STILL feel like you need more leverage toe side, then maybe consider shifting the bindings. However, good riders, IMO, do not need these tweaks to make them ride effectively.
> 
> I see you're in Denver...if you ever want to ride together, hit me up. I'm a Never Summer fanboy as well :storm:


You missed what he said for one, he's trying to get it centered.

If it's centered already?
What is this magic tweak you speak of?
Pushing them farther toeside, when they're already centered?
:embarrased1: you just made that shit up haha, nobody's doing that purposely lol.

That is not a tweak to make you ride effectively.
If you ride a wide board and don't have large enough feet for it?

You HAVE to do this. 

It has nothing to do with toe side carving.
It's the lack of a heel side carve.

Now, I could only see a portion of your binding. 
Cause you have the footbed off.

You say your feet(boots) are to small for that width deck?

Your bindings sure ain't haha.
What size are they?

The amount you have to slide your bindings forward, depends on the size of your binding.
You have to slide them farther forward with a larger binding.

Adjustable heel cups help to, but if you're at the smallest and it's slid all the way forward?

Those things are just to damn big.
Again I can't see the whole thing, makes it a bit harder to tell.
The heel cup hangs over like 2 inches


Edit

Does Rome use a mini disc?
I think those things suck 
I've had problems with them before trying to center boots on wide models.

So you might have the right size bindings?
They just robbed you of the amount your tiny disc can be slid forward.
Bigger disc=more fine tuning.

Still got my money on just to damn big

Enough of that for now haha.
I'll have to find out the answer later
I semi slept in my car last night.
And I have some powder to slay up in a few of those back bowls on Whistler

Toodles

TT


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## drblast (Feb 28, 2017)

Rome bindings have an adjustable heel loop. Have you already moved that forward to center the boot on the binding?

The video on how to do that is here:

https://youtu.be/qJsqt0oSSrg


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## kriegs13 (Nov 28, 2016)

wrathfuldeity said:


> Move the binding so that *your foot is centered* (not necessarily your binding) over the mid-line of the board.


Yup. and what Timmy said. Ive also got small feet though not as small as yours (8.5). For my widest boards (slush slasher and war pig), I have to put the bindings forward differently depending on the binding. Med Malavitas I needed to max out towards the toe edge because they had more room for my boots to travel back and forth. Med Salomon bindings only one "notch" towards to because my boot sits really "normally" in them. Union contacts I keep centered and mess with the heel cup until right. It's currently sitting just a hair bigger than min size and centered on a slushy..that boards got some waist width.


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## Fielding (Feb 15, 2015)

Center your binding so that your boots, when strapped in, are centered on the board. Centering the bindings alone, without considering where the heel/toe of the boots sit with respect to your board’s edges, is a recipe for a strange ride. While you’re looking at your boots strapped into your bindings on your board check out the highback forward lean. Lots of boots have forward lead built in. You don’t want your bindings to have less forward lean than your boots. That’ll cause a gap.


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## chomps1211 (Mar 30, 2011)

fr3nzy said:


> Nope. I plan to ride centered first, this was just a preemptive, "can I do this" should the need arise.
> 
> Thanks for the advice.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk



That's good,... it's always easy to change things up after. 

I will add that I demo'd both the IG & Maverix. I'm a size 10 boot so somewhat less of problem than your girlishly petite feet,... :laugh:

But I found *both* of those boards to be very quick edge to edge. I didn't have to put a lot of workk or effort to go toeside on them. And riding them with my Cartels offered even *less* toeside adjustment than the Rome bindings. :shrug:

Hopefully you wont have any isdues you can't adjust & adapt for! Good luck!


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## zc1 (Feb 20, 2017)

drblast said:


> Rome bindings have an adjustable heel loop. Have you already moved that forward to center the boot on the binding?
> 
> The video on how to do that is here:
> 
> https://youtu.be/qJsqt0oSSrg


This.

Use the heel loop adjustment to centre your boot on the toe-heel axis. Use the disc to adjust your stance width.


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## fr3nzy (Jan 22, 2018)

Hey everyone, thanks for the tips and advice. Quick rundown of the thoughts mentioned above:

*The pic is at an angle because I wasn't trying to show boot hangover, but rather the disc placement, so the overhang looks more than it is.

*Yes, I've already slide the heel loop forward per that video when I was originally setting up my bindings.

*Already adjusted the ankle strap to use the top position for more leverage. Basically binding is already adjusted for max leverage and centered/forward boot as much as possible.

*Currently the bindings are centered per the 4x4 pattern and using the minidisc and I will be riding like this to start. Just knowing that I *might* need to adjust forward more, I preemptively asked about using the 3-screw pattern shown above.

*Bindings aren't too big for the boots. Boots are a size 7 and Rome M/L bindings cover 7-10.5. I wanted S/M bindings so I was more in the middle of the range, but the two shops I went to had full price Katanas and some $100 version that I didn't want to risk.

*Current stance is +15/-3 so the rear foot should get decent leverage. I tried 0, but my knee doesn't like anything less than -3 or more than -9.

I'll know more after I get it out, and I'm probably just overthinking. Neni seems to love this board, as do pretty much every other reviewer, so I'm confident I'll be fine no matter what. It's all just about having fun, right?

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## natty99 (Nov 15, 2017)

timmytard said:


> You missed what he said for one, he's trying to get it centered.
> 
> If it's centered already?
> What is this magic tweak you speak of?
> ...


lol learn to read man. Be more Timmy, and less Tard. It will serve you well. Especially with your transcript style of 'writing'. yeesh


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## timmytard (Mar 19, 2009)

natty99 said:


> lol learn to read man. Be more Timmy, and less Tard. It will serve you well. Especially with your transcript style of 'writing'. yeesh


Sure, I'll work on that.

But first, tell me who is doing this tweak you speak of?

Pushing their bindings farther toe side, when it already centered, for more Toeside leverage?


TT


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