# Union Bindings to Channel



## Joe Coffee (Dec 12, 2012)

Hey guys

New to the forum here and just had a question. I have union force bindings (2013) and am going to buy a Burton Super Hero 2013 brand new from a friend who bought and didn't even take it out of the plastic. I bought the union conversion discs for the channel but it came without the screws. My question is basically what do I need now? I am not sure if the board comes with the screws and if it does I am not sure if my friends still has them. In the event he does not what do I have to get?


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## cnesta (Oct 28, 2012)

well if the board is still in the plastic the screws should be there they are on the side of the board in a cardboard slip. correction this is not the SCREWS the are the inserts that slide in the channel then you need just erg binding screws 

p.s. i just got the same board it is a sick one youll love it so playfull have fun!!!


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## 24WERD (May 9, 2012)

if the board comes with the m6 hardware or more exact , the slider nuts then you can use the regular screws that came with your union bindings.

If not , then goto a sport store and ask for the m6 hardware. It should have the sliders and screws.


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

When you buy burton disc bindings the channel screws are shorter than the standard screws, and they're black (not sure if they're a different grade or heat treated or anything).

I'd try to get the hardware to go with...


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## BurtonBindings (Dec 16, 2012)

Joe,

you can go into your local shop or call Burton Rider Service.
you'll need M6x13mm screws.
They're not teated any differently than any other M6 screw, they're just shorter and black to indicate the difference in length.


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## Triple8Sol (Nov 24, 2008)

If I was into Burton gear, I feel like I'd want to pair a channel board with est bindings, period. Seems like you're not utlizing the benefits of their setup if you don't run them together.


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## BurtonBindings (Dec 16, 2012)

Triple8Sol said:


> If I was into Burton gear, I feel like I'd want to pair a channel board with est bindings, period. Seems like you're not utlizing the benefits of their setup if you don't run them together.



The Channel is more about stance options and ease of use. 
EST is more underfoot flex, same with Re:Flex just a little less of it.


None the less, some people have a different rail board, a pow board, a rock board etc which may not all be Burton. 
Or someone likes a Burton board and just really likes Union so to each their own.


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## Joe Coffee (Dec 12, 2012)

Ok so I went ahead and mounted my Union Force bindings 2013 on a 2013 Burton Super Hero. I used the conversion disc from union BUT used my regular screws. I did not go and get the burton screws. The union screws fit into the inserts and tighten up. Is this good idea or should I really look into getting the burton screws?


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## BurtonBindings (Dec 16, 2012)

Joe Coffee said:


> Ok so I went ahead and mounted my Union Force bindings 2013 on a 2013 Burton Super Hero. I used the conversion disc from union BUT used my regular screws. I did not go and get the burton screws. The union screws fit into the inserts and tighten up. Is this good idea or should I really look into getting the burton screws?


get the shorter screws. they reason why they're shorter are as follows:

1: long screws will likely bottom out and dent the Channel.
2: If the screw doesn't bottom out and dent the Channel, you wont have enough tension on the disc which could easy result in the disc spinning or the whole binding slipping.

the second scenerio is more likely and would lead to injury. likely a knee injury.

get the shorter screws. they're free.


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## Joe Coffee (Dec 12, 2012)

Ok sounds good. But what if they are not denting the channel or touching it?


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## BurtonBindings (Dec 16, 2012)

Joe Coffee said:


> Ok sounds good. But what if they are not denting the channel or touching it?


Still not advised to ride it that way.


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## hktrdr (Apr 3, 2012)

Joe Coffee said:


> Ok sounds good. But what if they are not denting the channel or touching it?


That question was quite clearly answered already...


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## Joe Coffee (Dec 12, 2012)

hktrdr said:


> That question was quite clearly answered already...


No. Burton replied and said the reason you want to use the m6 screws is because they are shorter and will not dent the channel. I was asking if in the event that the non-m6 screws still didn't touch the channel and were tight if it would be OK (which is a question I had not asked previously)

Just out of curiosity if the screws are all good (tight, not touching channel) why would you guys still not recommend them?


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## hktrdr (Apr 3, 2012)

Joe Coffee said:


> No. Burton replied and said the reason you want to use the m6 screws is because they are shorter and will not dent the channel. I was asking if in the event that the non-m6 screws still didn't touch the channel and were tight if it would be OK (which is a question I had not asked previously)
> 
> Just out of curiosity if the screws are all good (tight, not touching channel) why would you guys still not recommend them?





BurtonBindings said:


> get the shorter screws. they reason why they're shorter are as follows:
> 
> 1: long screws will likely bottom out and dent the Channel.
> *2: If the screw doesn't bottom out and dent the Channel, you wont have enough tension on the disc which could easy result in the disc spinning or the whole binding slipping.*
> ...


Which part of the bold bit is not clear?


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## BurtonBindings (Dec 16, 2012)

Joe Coffee said:


> No. Burton replied and said the reason you want to use the m6 screws is because they are shorter and will not dent the channel. I was asking if in the event that the non-m6 screws still didn't touch the channel and were tight if it would be OK (which is a question I had not asked previously)
> 
> Just out of curiosity if the screws are all good (tight, not touching channel) why would you guys still not recommend them?


Because:
the Channel won't always be clean. if anything builds up on that surface and/or the board bends: YOU ARE AT RISK.
If you ever move your stance back for powder: YOU ARE AT RISK.

We did a very intense study on every possible tolerance combination possible and having been in front of that screen and making bindings for 8 years, it is in your and your boards best interest to just listen to the advice we've given you.


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## UNION INHOUSE (Nov 13, 2012)

Sorry to get to the party late here, but the Burton guy is correct. 

I'm sure if you ride it the way it's set up now, you will damage the channel and probably get binding slip.


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## Joe Coffee (Dec 12, 2012)

hktrdr said:


> Which part of the bold bit is not clear?


I was asking *What if the screws dont bottom out AND still are tight. A situation not outlined by burton bindings.*

Anyways...can I get the screws free from you Burton? Just shoot me a PM on how I should proceed. Thanks


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## phony_stark (Jul 2, 2011)

Hit up rider services, they'll send them out to you.


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## Joe Coffee (Dec 12, 2012)

Called burton and the hardware is on its way! Glad I did not go riding with the bindings set up like they are! PHEEEEEEEWWWW


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

Joe Coffee said:


> I was asking *What if the screws dont bottom out AND still are tight. A situation not outlined by burton bindings.*


Please remove the location from your profile. I don't want people to think that everybody from Alberta is like you!!! :cheeky4:

Burton guy, I dunno how you didn't snap! Oh and please start making the C60s again. I'll pay good money. :yahoo: I put them on my $1500 fancy pants board. :yahoo:


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