# Another base repair question



## chronicsmoke (Nov 30, 2011)

I fixed a few gouges with the P-Tex candels on my rome GR (extruded base) with good sucess.. Not sure how it'd work on a core shot on a sintered base of the Flow Infinite.. I'd give that a go maybe? I'm tuned in to see what others say :dunno:


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## brucew. (Dec 4, 2012)

chronicsmoke said:


> I fixed a few gouges with the P-Tex candels on my rome GR (extruded base) with good sucess.. Not sure how it'd work on a core shot on a sintered base of the Flow Infinite.. I'd give that a go maybe? I'm tuned in to see what others say :dunno:


Unfortunately I don't have any candles and my shops are too far away for me to go pick one up before I hope to ride again. Tognar recommended this material for sintered bases but all the info online was for candles so i kinda had to wing it...hoping someone on here has experience


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

why would you clamp ptex? ...ur supposed to light it up and let it flow

the epoxy is to seal up exposed core/wood...let it fully cure and then flow in the ptex


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## brucew. (Dec 4, 2012)

wrathfuldeity said:


> why would you clamp ptex? ...ur supposed to light it up and let it flow
> 
> the epoxy is to seal up exposed core/wood...let it fully cure and then flow in the ptex


Because it's not that type of ptex, its a piece of base material. you don't light it and drip it like a candle

i was following the directions from tognar




> First, cut and peel out the damaged base material using with a base template and repair knife.
> then cut a new patch from these p-tex sheets (rough side down)
> glue into place on the ski or snowboard base with epoxy.
> Clamp the patch firmly (not overly tight or the epoxy will be squeezed out) using small c-clamps and flat wood or metal plates to distribute pressure evenly over the patch.
> ...


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

it kind of looks like you just have a gouge without any exposure to the core...if that is the case...scrape out the epoxy and properly ptex. if you don't have it...go early to the hill...if they have a good shop they can do the repair in a few minutes


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## wrathfuldeity (Oct 5, 2007)

brucew. said:


> Because it's not that type of ptex, its a piece of base material. you don't light it and drip it like a candle
> 
> i was following the directions from tognar


idk...does not look to be big enough for a patch...just de-wax and reflow with some ptex


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## brucew. (Dec 4, 2012)

wrathfuldeity said:


> it kind of looks like you just have a gouge without any exposure to the core...if that is the case...scrape out the epoxy and properly ptex. if you don't have it...go early to the hill...if they have a good shop they can do the repair in a few minutes


unfortunately the core is definitely exposed


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

If you have to use that instead of the candle, try widening out the area. Also did you use anything to remove wax from the area before hand? The wound should be square instead of a V for that repair to work best.

Even mineral spirits should remove the wax from the surrounding area... You mentioned sanding but you didn't say anything about removing the sanded crap from the area. Sand if need be, wire brush, but you'll have to use some sort of solvent to give the epoxy something to bond to.


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## brucew. (Dec 4, 2012)

poutanen said:


> If you have to use that instead of the candle, try widening out the area. Also did you use anything to remove wax from the area before hand? The wound should be square instead of a V for that repair to work best.
> 
> Even mineral spirits should remove the wax from the surrounding area... You mentioned sanding but you didn't say anything about removing the sanded crap from the area. Sand if need be, wire brush, but you'll have to use some sort of solvent to give the epoxy something to bond to.


I lightly sanded the area to remove any wax or crap. I'll have to do it again now to remove the epoxy from the failed patch. I did square it off so I'll try it again with a wider surface area.


Thanks for the advice :thumbsup:


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

brucew. said:


> I lightly sanded the area to remove any wax or crap. I'll have to do it again now to remove the epoxy from the failed patch. I did square it off so I'll try it again with a wider surface area.
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice :thumbsup:


When you peel(ed) out the failed repair, did the epoxy not stick to the ptex? If so it may need roughing up more, or the epoxy itself might not be working properly.

This would be a 10 minute repair at a resort proshop so I send heading in early next time on the hill if you can. They'l candle, scrape, and give it a quick wax and you're good to go...


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## redlude97 (Jan 9, 2008)

just melt the PTEX sheet like you would a candle after you epoxing and drip it into the hole.


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## brucew. (Dec 4, 2012)

poutanen said:


> When you peel(ed) out the failed repair, did the epoxy not stick to the ptex? If so it may need roughing up more, or the epoxy itself might not be working properly.
> 
> This would be a 10 minute repair at a resort proshop so I send heading in early next time on the hill if you can. They'l candle, scrape, and give it a quick wax and you're good to go...


There wasn't a whole lot of epoxy in general in that spot, i think the small area combined with tightening the clamps too hard was likely my problem. The epoxy held really well in the larger area. 

I'm going to try to redo the spot myself and if it doesn't work i'll take it to a shop (not the resort, fuck those lying bastards, im not giving them anymore money than i have to)


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## zk0ot (Nov 9, 2009)

The kit you got was to more or less replace a section of your base. you could have done with melting it in... 

*you want to make sure the core is sealed away from moisture ( a small layer of epoxy)
*sand / cut away any loose/raised material from gouge
*drip ptex (base material) in slowly you dont want to melt the epoxy(dont let it bubble)... let it overfill the gouge. 
*let it cool down 
* scrape. 
* re drip if needed.


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## mhaas (Nov 25, 2007)

I wouldnt even use the epoxy. They might be have chemical composition that would bond well together, ie oil and water. The P Tex should stick to wood and that fiber glass layer they put under the base. Just get the plain jane ptex sticks and melt them into the damaged area. No need to clamp. It is "cured" as soon as it cools down. Thats just my two cents from doing way to many ptex repairs.


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

mhaas said:


> Just get the plain jane ptex sticks and melt them into the damaged area. No need to clamp. It is "cured" as soon as it cools down. Thats just my two cents from doing way to many ptex repairs.


I must stress the importance of reading threads before posting!  See below, from the 3rd post...



brucew. said:


> Unfortunately I don't have any candles and my shops are too far away for me to go pick one up before I hope to ride again.


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## brucew. (Dec 4, 2012)

poutanen said:


> I must stress the importance of reading threads before posting!  See below, from the 3rd post...


 

What did you think about the melting the sheet suggestion? I just redid the repair and it felt like a better fit and more secure but was curious about that for future issues.


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

brucew. said:


> What did you think about the melting the sheet suggestion? I just redid the repair and it felt like a better fit and more secure but was curious about that for future issues.


I've never used a sheet, but I imagine ptex is ptex. At the very least you won't damage anything by rolling the sheet up tight, lighting it and dripping it into the wound.

Same rules apply for pre-cleaning the area. If there's any wax, dust, dirt or anything in there it wont stick. In fact the best way to make it stick is cut back the edges of the wound so you almost keyhole it in place, like this.

/____\


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## brucew. (Dec 4, 2012)

poutanen said:


> I've never used a sheet, but I imagine ptex is ptex. At the very least you won't damage anything by rolling the sheet up tight, lighting it and dripping it into the wound.
> 
> Same rules apply for pre-cleaning the area. If there's any wax, dust, dirt or anything in there it wont stick. In fact the best way to make it stick is cut back the edges of the wound so you almost keyhole it in place, like this.
> 
> /____\


I'm not sure I could roll it up, its fairly stiff, its actually hard to cut with a razor. 

Damn, I didn't do the keyhole shape...the gouge is right underneath my foot so I'm sure it will pop out eventually so I'll have to remember that for next time.


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## mhaas (Nov 25, 2007)

> I must stress the importance of reading threads before posting!


my bad. Its not that I didnt read the thread, more of a comprehension problem:icon_scratch:

If you cant roll it up, maybe cut it into long strips, about lighter flame width. Try using heavy duty scissors/garden shears/wire cutters if are having trouble cutting it with a razor. You probably wont get much volume out of it that way but just layer the crap out of it. Thats what you have to with the sticks anyway.


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## brucew. (Dec 4, 2012)

mhaas said:


> my bad. Its not that I didnt read the thread, more of a comprehension problem:icon_scratch:
> 
> If you cant roll it up, maybe cut it into long strips, about lighter flame width. Try using heavy duty scissors/garden shears/wire cutters if are having trouble cutting it with a razor. You probably wont get much volume out of it that way but just layer the crap out of it. Thats what you have to with the sticks anyway.


I'll just buy candles if I want to try the drip method. 

Thanks everyone.


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## ETM (Aug 11, 2009)

redlude97 said:


> just melt the ptex sheet like you would a candle after you epoxing and drip it into the hole.


+1........


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