# You can not dial in Rome Mob Boss bindings



## BurtonAvenger (Aug 14, 2007)

1. Get the offset disk if you feel you can't center it right. That will fix that problem. 

2. As far as the highback you either have the adjustments set wrong so it's not rotating properly. Or you have too much forward lean. My suggestion if you don't ride with forward lean pull that adjuster off. Also there's a slight break in period for bindings that are one piece to push in.


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## Bertieman (Jan 19, 2014)

BurtonAvenger said:


> 1. Get the offset disk if you feel you can't center it right. That will fix that problem.
> 
> 2. As far as the highback you either have the adjustments set wrong so it's not rotating properly. Or you have too much forward lean. My suggestion if you don't ride with forward lean pull that adjuster off. Also there's a slight break in period for bindings that are one piece to push in.


By center them I mean by the boots toe and heel, not stance width centering. I basically would like to move the bindings back, but the high back does not allow me to move it up further anymore (which is where an adjustable heelcup would help), thus resulting in the binding toe overhang. 

Is it customary to have a gap between the high back and heel cup? I feel like the one in my picture is a bit much.

Thanks for the reply.


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## JonSnow (Jul 24, 2013)

I don't think that you are explaining your issue very well. Initially I thought that you couldn't center your bindings on the board between the heel and toe edge, but now it sounds like you can't center the boots in the bindings because there is a gap between the high back and the heel cup. This is causing the toe of your boot to overhang the gas pedal of the binding?

You should not have any gap between the high back and the heelcup when the high back is fully upright. It looks like you do not have them adjusted properly. I do not own any Rome bindings, but most bindings have two posts on either side of the highback that allow it to be rotated. It looks as though you have not adjusted the highbacks correctly, and that is why you have a gap. 

I would loosen both the screws that attach the highback to the heelcup, rotate the high back to a position so it is parallel to the edge of your board, pull the highback to the upright position and so that it is tight to the heelcup (this may require you to bend the legs? of the high back a bit to position it correctly), then retighten the screws or whatever mechanism holds it in place.


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## BurtonAvenger (Aug 14, 2007)

Turn the disks so the holes on them go toe to heel. Offset them as need be to center.


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## Bertieman (Jan 19, 2014)

Let me rephrase this. 

There is no problem with the disc plates.

When I have the binding base plate set evenly hanging off the toe and heel edge of the board, the heel cup of the binding does not adjust so my boots are still evenly hanging off both the heel and toe edge of the board. 

This is where the adjustability would come in. I need the high back to adjust more forward, but it is already as forward as it can go. Being that the heel cup can't adjust forward either, it results with too much heel overhang. 

The way I have it setup now leaves the binding base plate hanging over the toe edge more than the heel. And it also leaves the high back with a huge gap. I know the high back can be set better, but I can't set it like that or my boots will have whack heel overhang----and even MORE toe base plate overhang.


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## JonSnow (Jul 24, 2013)

Don't worry about how the binding base lines up on the board. Put your boots in the bindings, and then center the boot so that heel and toe overhang are the same. Then screw the binding base plates to the board.


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## Bertieman (Jan 19, 2014)

JonSnow said:


> Don't worry about how the binding base lines up on the board. Put your boots in the bindings, and then center the boot so that heel and toe overhang are the same. Then screw the binding base plates to the board.


That is how I had it, but...it felt like I could hold a heel edge better when there was more base plate under my heel. Which is why I tried to even out the base plates heel and toe edge. If I go back to the way you are suggesting then theres about close to an inch of toe base plate overhang and the heel base plate doesn't even come close to the heel of the board.


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## ekb18c (Mar 11, 2013)

Couldnt you just turn the disc so that the lines are going from toe edge to heel edge? Then move the binding towards the toe or heel edge to center it? 

Instead of the lines going from tip to tail you have it going edge to edge? Wouldn't that solve your problem? Or am i lost?


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## Bertieman (Jan 19, 2014)

ekb18c said:


> Couldnt you just turn the disc so that the lines are going from toe edge to heel edge? Then move the binding towards the toe or heel edge to center it?
> 
> Instead of the lines going from tip to tail you have it going edge to edge? Wouldn't that solve your problem? Or am i lost?


No the discs are not the problem. 

When the binding base heel/toe is even, the high back does not adjust any more forward to fit my boot evenly. 

The problem is there is no heel cup adjustment on these bindings.


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## JonSnow (Jul 24, 2013)

None of my bindings have any heelcup adjustment, and I have never had issues with them, so I don't believe that that is your problem.

At this point I am pretty confused lol I think I'd need some more pictures to try to help you out.


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## ekb18c (Mar 11, 2013)

You know that the footbed moves right? Instead of moving the heel cup like on a union, you move the footbed on the mob boss. 

Best to take pictures and or video to demonstrate what you are talking about but most likely it's user error.


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## JonSnow (Jul 24, 2013)

Unibody Manual | Binding Tech | Rome Snowboard Design Syndicate 2015


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## Bertieman (Jan 19, 2014)

ekb18c said:


> You know that the footbed moves right? Instead of moving the heel cup like on a union, you move the footbed on the mob boss.
> 
> Best to take pictures and or video to demonstrate what you are talking about but most likely it's user error.


Moving the footbed would only help if I could move it more toward the heel edge, but it's already maxed out in that direction.

The picture I have is showing that the high back is maxed out forward. If I move the binding back, it will only create more heel overhang, which I'm trying to avoid!!!!!!


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## cerebroside (Nov 6, 2012)

What size are your boots and what size are your bindings?


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## Bertieman (Jan 19, 2014)

Size 12 boots. L/XL mob bosses


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## cerebroside (Nov 6, 2012)

Weird. Post a pic of your boot in the binding from the side? (Not an expert, just curious.)


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## Bertieman (Jan 19, 2014)

This is with the binding toe overhang and the highback with a gab between the heel cup.

Foot bed all the way back, high back all the way forward. I realistically need the foot bed to move further back and the high back to move further forward.


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## F1EA (Oct 25, 2013)

Bertieman said:


> This is with the binding toe overhang and the highback with a gab between the heel cup.
> 
> Foot bed all the way back, high back all the way forward. I realistically need the foot bed to move further back and the high back to move further forward.


That's fine. Your boots are centered to the board, a bit uneven hang on the footbed, but no big deal.


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## Brewtown (Feb 16, 2014)

In your OP you mention you had adjusted the highback so its crooked, this is whats creating the gap, fix that shit. If you rotate the highback do so with an even amount of adjustment on either side of the heel loop. Once the high back is flush, use the disc to move the whole binding edge to edge until your boot is centered, the footbed does not need to be center on the board, your boot is what matters. Finally adjust the gas pedal if necessary.


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## Bertieman (Jan 19, 2014)

Okay it's pretty much setup like that. But is it that bad if your bindings forward lean control box is barely hanging on to the heel cup?


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## ekb18c (Mar 11, 2013)

Your boots look ok on the board. I'm not sure what you are talking about for the forward lean. Pictures?

edit: I think i know why. There are 3 holes on each side and you bolted him to the holes closet to the toe? it's not suppose to be like that. Try moving them back centered so they use the middle holes on each side. The extra holes are for rotate the highback to match the edges of the board. It's for people who ride duck stances.


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## Bertieman (Jan 19, 2014)

The forward lean adjustment thing on the back of the highback. Like the gap is enormous between the high back and the heel cup. 

I still strongly feel that these bindings have more to be desired with adjustability. What stiffer bindings do yall use?

EDIT: I am not following what you added


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## ekb18c (Mar 11, 2013)

Sorry I'm thinking it's like Union highbacks, which it is not.

Anyways did you see this video? 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?x-yt-cl=84503534&v=cdt5cJpjkL0&x-yt-ts=1421914688


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## F1EA (Oct 25, 2013)

Sometimes when you rotate the highback too much, you change the angle but do not keep it all the way to the back. Rotate as much as the highback allows without leavin a big gap between highback and heelcup... this ussually limits how much you can rotate the highback.

The highback does not have to be PERFECTLY parallel to the board, but it should sit flush to the heelcup.


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## Bertieman (Jan 19, 2014)

Yeah the highback is hardly rotated and it is parrell with the board. The main problem is there is no heelcup adjustment !!

What stiff-ish bindings have an adjustable heel cup ?!


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## F1EA (Oct 25, 2013)

Bertieman said:


> Yeah the highback is hardly rotated and it is parrell with the board. The main problem is there is no heelcup adjustment !!
> 
> What stiff-ish bindings have an adjustable heel cup ?!


As someone who's ridden, setup and rotated many bindings without adjustable heelcups... I doubt that is the problem.

Also, Mob Boss are not stiff.

You can take them to the shop where you got them and ask to have them installed... or the resort shop.


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## Bertieman (Jan 19, 2014)

I had mine installed at a shop. It was a joke because they made it all heel overhang and it was set back half an inch when they told me it was centered.


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## Gustov (Dec 17, 2011)

the picture you posted in post #14 shows a problem. the high backs are not supposed to be set to that most forward screw setting on both sides, the different settings there are to rotate the highback, not move it forward. there are no bindings anywhere that you are supposed to move the high back forward from the heel cup. you should shift it back.

i understand that doing that will give you too much heel overhang. if that's the case, turn the disc plates so the screw slots are oriented across the width of the board and adjust how the bindings are centered. and yes, that will make the toe of your binding hang over more.

what board do you have? you said you have size 12 boots, do you have a wide board? the toes of your bindings shouldn't hang over the edge of the board that much. if you don't have heel/toe drag issues, maybe you could find bindings with a shorter footbed, i guess. there's nothing wrong with those bindings though. a lot of bindings don't have an adjustable heel cup.


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## F1EA (Oct 25, 2013)

Bertieman said:


> I had mine installed at a shop. It was a joke because they made it all heel overhang and it was set back half an inch when they told me it was centered.


ha ha bloody shop kids.

Well, only thing i can think of... when you rotate highback, did you loosen both bolts and rotated both of them? 

If you move the right side forwrd, you have to move the left one rearward so that the highback stays at the same distance to the heelcup. If you move 1 side more than the other, the highback will rotate but also gets displaced. So make sure you rotate while keeping the highback flush with the heelcup.


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## Bertieman (Jan 19, 2014)

Gustov said:


> the picture you posted in post #14 shows a problem. the high backs are not supposed to be set to that most forward screw setting on both sides, the different settings there are to rotate the highback, not move it forward. there are no bindings anywhere that you are supposed to move the high back forward from the heel cup. you should shift it back.
> 
> what board do you have? you said you have size 12 boots, do you have a wide board? the toes of your bindings shouldn't hang over the edge of the board that much. if you don't have heel/toe drag issues, maybe you could find bindings with a shorter footbed, i guess. there's nothing wrong with those bindings though. a lot of bindings don't have an adjustable heel cup.


I thought the high back screws were so you can adjust your boot distance via that. I will adjust them back but the binding foot bed will have a ton more toe overhang than it does now.
And I have a lib tech hot knife..156 wide (265 ww)




F1EA said:


> ha ha bloody shop kids.
> 
> Well, only thing i can think of... when you rotate highback, did you loosen both bolts and rotated both of them?
> 
> If you move the right side forwrd, you have to move the left one rearward so that the highback stays at the same distance to the heelcup. If you move 1 side more than the other, the highback will rotate but also gets displaced. So make sure you rotate while keeping the highback flush with the heelcup.


Yeah I get you adjust both high back inserts when you turn it, but I had to make it this way to get even boot overhang.

Also I was suprised the board was setup off. They kept saying they knew what they were talking about but I really had to go home and re adjust everything. It's a true twin and it wasn't setup centered nor was the boot overhang equal.


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## F1EA (Oct 25, 2013)

Oh there you go, you don't use those bolts to center your boot. 

If you can't move heel/toe anymore using the disc bolts, then you need a different size of binding. Check your discs to see if the shop kids screwed that up and you still have room to adjust.


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## Bertieman (Jan 19, 2014)

F1EA said:


> Oh there you go, you don't use those bolts to center your boot.
> 
> If you can't move heel/toe anymore using the disc bolts, then you need a different size of binding. Check your discs to see if the shop kids screwed that up and you still have room to adjust.


Ya I can def center the binding & boot via moving the disc, but like I said before will result in more binding plate toe overhang.

Thanks again for the replies.


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## Gustov (Dec 17, 2011)

Bertieman said:


> Ya I can def center the binding & boot via moving the disc, but like I said before will result in more binding plate toe overhang.
> 
> Thanks again for the replies.


i would say try it like that. it's a bit odd to me that the toe of the binding hangs that much, but i guess those bindings are just like that. you certainly have the right size bindings and board. the idea is really just to get your boots centered so that you have equal ability to go toeside and heelside. sounds like the shop guy didn't really know what he was doing. after you re mount them, put your boots in and tilt the board until your toe/heel hits the ground. you can see how much of an angle you can go at until you'll drag, and it's usually pretty extreme.


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## Bertieman (Jan 19, 2014)

Figured I'd follow up. Here are the bindings with the high back smoothly wedged against the heel cup. Basically it looks like I need a base pad that can adjust further down rather than up.

EDIT: The heel side of the base pad doesn't actually go over the boards edge. It just looks that way in the picture.


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## F1EA (Oct 25, 2013)

read below.


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## SkullAndXbones (Feb 24, 2014)

i think i know what the problem is. your footbed is all the way forward. the canting padding. take out the screw, and slide it back farther then screw it back in. there are 2 screw holes there, you have it screwed in to the one that's furthest from your heel.


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## KansasNoob (Feb 24, 2013)

SkullAndXbones said:


> i think i know what the problem is. your footbed is all the way forward. the canting padding. take out the screw, and slide it back farther then screw it back in. there are 2 screw holes there, you have it screwed in to the one that's furthest from your heel.


This. 

I have set up these bindings on a friends board and it's not bad. Adjust til boot is centered and then the footbed. 

I like my ride bindings more though. More work to adjust, but I like the setup better. I'm a set it and forget it guy.


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## Bertieman (Jan 19, 2014)

SkullAndXbones said:


> i think i know what the problem is. your footbed is all the way forward. the canting padding. take out the screw, and slide it back farther then screw it back in. there are 2 screw holes there, you have it screwed in to the one that's furthest from your heel.


You're thinking of it backwards. The footbed is all the way back as far as it can go with the screw. If you really look at where the screw is, I could only move the footbed more forward.


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## SkullAndXbones (Feb 24, 2014)

there's another screw hole in this picture. slide the footbed back and then put the screw in the other hole. in the other pictures it looks like the footbed is pushed all the way forward. i see a lot of space in the toe area.


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## Bertieman (Jan 19, 2014)

SkullAndXbones said:


> there's another screw hole in this picture. slide the footbed back and then put the screw in the other hole. in the other pictures it looks like the footbed is pushed all the way forward. i see a lot of space in the toe area.


Nah there isn't another screw hold for the foot bed..


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## Brewtown (Feb 16, 2014)

Regardless of adjustments something just doesn't seem right in the fact that the footbed is longer than a 265 ww board. Even if you got it centered it looks like the footbed would overhang on both sides, which isn't a problem but I don't understand why they would make it so big.


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## AmberLamps (Feb 8, 2015)

Exchange them for the 390 boss. They arent that much more expensive and thry are less bulky and more adjustable.


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## alchemy (Apr 28, 2014)

grab a pair of union contacts or flites.


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