# Scotch Brite.. When to stop?



## davidj (May 30, 2011)

bcoon said:


> Hello all. Quick tuning question. Most guides and videos I've seen about rubbing with Scotch Brite pad after scraping say something along the lines of rub like crazy, vigorously etc. Should I be rubbing until I see no more wax being picked up in the pad? It seems like I've been rubbing like crazy, and the base looks more dry, but still seeing white being picked up by the pad.


Scotch Brite it till you have a nice smooth surface throughout or you get bored (whichever is shorter). Then scrub the base lengthwise with a nylon brush to create channels in any remaining wax. Go ride... no need to overthink it.


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## bcoon (Feb 13, 2013)

Ha sounds like a plan. First time doing this myself so not sure what to look for or what looks like right/wrong.


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## Kalo (Aug 13, 2009)

My thinking in using a scotchbrite pad is whatever work you've done will be gone in the first 10 seconds of riding. It does make the board look nice but you dont want to rub to much wax off. Just rub until the whole base looks even and clean.


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## bcoon (Feb 13, 2013)

Ok so I guess what I'm getting at is can you over do the scotch Brite to the point where you will get rid of the work you just did with the hot wax? Bc my base looks kinda dry now.


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## Lamps (Sep 3, 2011)

I say no because the wax is been absorbed into the base


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## bcoon (Feb 13, 2013)

Snowolf said:


> I don't spend more than about a minute or two at most polishing with the Scotch Brite. Don't press hard and always run it lengthwise tip to tail down the board not across.
> 
> I am getting the best results in PMW wet heavy snow by scraping until there are no heavy wax deposits on the base, then using a brass brush lengthwise down the board 5-10 passed to put some aggressive structure on the base. I finish up by using the nylon then horse hair brush and finally a very light pass with the Scotch Brite. When done, my base is glossy and has thousands of tiny longitudinal surface scratches in the thin wax layer on the base. These scratches act as mico channels to allow water to flow under the base without creating surface tension that creates that sticky sucking feeling from wet snow.


Ok based on that I definitely over did it. Scraped until no wax would come off and then pressed hard with scotch Brite until nothing was coming off. Round 2!


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## wernersl (Dec 28, 2011)

bcoon said:


> Ok based on that I definitely over did it. Scraped until no wax would come off and then pressed hard with scotch Brite until nothing was coming off. Round 2!


You are on the right track with scraping. Scrape till its not picking up any more wax. Following that a quick couple passes with the brass brush, followed by nylon followed by a quick longitudinal polish with the scotchbrite. For me has worked wonders. Just pissed cause I ran out of graphite and had to throw some normal One Ball on it this last tune. Time to get to the store.


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## wernersl (Dec 28, 2011)

Oh and I noticed that in SoCals hardpack I can get about 3 riding days till I can feel its time for a new coat. Part of the reason I like graphite is the ugly black look...easy to tell when it starts getting thin, thus time to reapply.


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## trapper (Jan 15, 2013)

I too had a tendency to over use the Scotch Brite pad when I first started waxing my own board. Then I started keep my scraper sharper and utilizing brushes, and now I have my best results using the Scotch Brite as just a finishing touch at the very end. And generally you want to do this very lightly and quickly.


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## wernersl (Dec 28, 2011)

trapper said:


> I too had a tendency to over use the Scotch Brite pad when I first started waxing my own board. Then I started keep my scraper sharper and utilizing brushes, and now I have my best results using the Scotch Brite as just a finishing touch at the very end. And generally you want to do this very lightly and quickly.


Which is why I switched to a steel scraper. Stays sharper longer and is great for scraping that graphite off.


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

The best wax jobs I do are the ones I do in a rush...

Scrape for about 30 seconds, just enough to get the base good and flat.

Bathroom pad (is that scotchbright?) for a couple passes over the base.

Stiff nylon brush a couple passes over the base tip to tail.

Done. After wax is cooled the finishing steps shouldn't take longer than about 5 mins a board, or you're doing too much. I'm down to probably about 2 mins a board.


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## wernersl (Dec 28, 2011)

poutanen said:


> The best wax jobs I do are the ones I do in a rush...
> 
> Scrape for about 30 seconds, just enough to get the base good and flat.
> 
> ...


It definitely takes me longer than 30 seconds to scrape. I find the better I scrape the faster it is, and the longer it seems to last. Oh and are you implying you scrape while warm? Because that is a great way to clean grit and dirt out of your base, as scraping warm will dig out the old stuff from the grooves.


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## SilverSurfer (Sep 27, 2010)

Unless you race or only ride in fluffy light powder there is no need to use scotch brite pads or brushes, it is a complete waste of time. On groomed runs the effects will be gone before you are halfway through your first run. The amount of useless knowledge spread by the "core members" on this forum is off the fucking chart.


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## wernersl (Dec 28, 2011)

Well there you have it. Disregard every helpful tip on here...As its a waste of time. In fact...dont even bother. Wax is useless, as its just gone as soon as you tell your board you are headed up the hill.


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## SilverSurfer (Sep 27, 2010)

wernersl said:


> Well there you have it. Disregard every helpful tip on here...As its a waste of time. In fact...dont even bother. Wax is useless, as its just gone as soon as you tell your board you are headed up the hill.


For the dim ones.

Wax, scrap, ride.


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## Oldman (Mar 7, 2012)

There may be some not so dim.


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

wernersl said:


> It definitely takes me longer than 30 seconds to scrape. I find the better I scrape the faster it is, and the longer it seems to last. Oh and are you implying you scrape while warm? Because that is a great way to clean grit and dirt out of your base, as scraping warm will dig out the old stuff from the grooves.


Yeah that was my point, scraping is good but no need to go nuts. Just scrape the damn base and move on, it's pretty clear when you've scraped enough and it should happen in less than a minute unless you're being overly cautious.

I don't scrape warm, and I don't clean my base because honestly I've never had dirt/grit in it. Maybe it's the spring slush that cleans it out before the season ends but I just wax over the old.



SilverSurfer said:


> Unless you race or only ride in fluffy light powder there is no need to use scotch brite pads or brushes, it is a complete waste of time. On groomed runs the effects will be gone before you are halfway through your first run. The amount of useless knowledge spread by the "core members" on this forum is off the fucking chart.


Obviously you've never stood on top of a mountain in -20 degree weather stuck to the snow eh? Happened this year to me and kinda wigged me out. There is logic behind using the brushes however...


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## redlude97 (Jan 9, 2008)

How long it takes to scrape also depends on how much excess wax you apply and whether you loosen your bindings in my experience. Once you get the right amount of wax dialed, then it takes me 1-2 mins to get 90% of the wax off. Then I spend another 2-3 minutes getting that last bit off in the base indents if I'm going to bother brushing etc or I just say fuck it and leave it for a quicky job.


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## wernersl (Dec 28, 2011)

poutanen said:


> Yeah that was my point, scraping is good but no need to go nuts. Just scrape the damn base and move on, it's pretty clear when you've scraped enough and it should happen in less than a minute unless you're being overly cautious.
> 
> I don't scrape warm, and I don't clean my base because honestly I've never had dirt/grit in it. Maybe it's the spring slush that cleans it out before the season ends but I just wax over the old.
> 
> ...


Yeah Im the cautious type. Using a steel scraper adds to the caution, as well as the time it takes to scrape graphite. Id say start to finish for tuning I take about an hour. Take the time to check for new gouges, and fill as necessary. Hot scrape if Im changing wax types or the drive home was really cruddy. Board gets dirty as shit on top of the car. But yeah, about an hour start to finish. Plus I enjoy the time to myself in the garage. Feel like Im actually accomplishing something, as well as time to kill a few Ranger IPAs!


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## extra0 (Jan 16, 2010)

supposedly, the wetter the snow, the more you need base structure. 

My area usually gets "wet" snow, so I do go through all the steps, including brushing. I use scotch brite pads after scraping, really only to show me where I missed with my scrape job (I then re-scrape those areas). I then brush out the structure.


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## wernersl (Dec 28, 2011)

extra0 said:


> supposedly, the wetter the snow, the more you need base structure.
> 
> My area usually gets "wet" snow, so I do go through all the steps, including brushing. I use scotch brite pads after scraping, really only to show me where I missed with my scrape job (I then re-scrape those areas). I then brush out the structure.


Yeah the brushes show me the missed spots quite well.


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## Cyfer (Feb 7, 2013)

Scotch brite pads work well for finishing the job you've done with your scraper. Most people in shops that know how to tune will tell you to scrap your base down to the thinness of about a piece of paper. It's not the wax on the surface that counts but the wax that is absorbed by the pours on the base. It's why you use a hot iron, not only to melt the wax but to open the pours on the base as you use the iron to spread the wax. So you don't need to use a lot of wax to get the job done. Just enough to cover the base. I usually wax with muti-temp being on the East Coast and how fast conditions can change here. Then let the board sit for a half and hour to 45 minutes to let it fully cool. Then scrap with a good sharp scraper till I've taken most of the wax off and even it out. The scrotch brite pads are used to buff out my work and to even out the base wax once done. Like everyone else said you're over thinking it. 

Want to add some zip to your ride, Zardoz Not-Wax (liquid Teflon) can be used prior to waxing and then afterwards to add speed to your base. It also helps out A LOT in wet slushy conditions when it feels like the water below your board it causing you to stick. Good Luck and now that I'm reading this I've got to go wax a board of my own.


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## extra0 (Jan 16, 2010)

^sounds toxic


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## wernersl (Dec 28, 2011)

extra0 said:


> ^sounds toxic


Claims its non-toxic on their website.


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## Cyfer (Feb 7, 2013)

extra0 said:


> ^sounds toxic


Non toxic and very fast stuff Zardoz Not-Wax it used in such a small amount too. Still the best solution for that wet snow sticking problem. Check it out at

Zardoz NOTwax - Advanced Base Treatments

Been using it for a long time I would think in today's savage media that if it was toxic it would've been pulled from the shelves.


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## wernersl (Dec 28, 2011)

I might give it a whirl during my next tune. Or say fuck it and re-do. Small investment to see if it is worth a shit.


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## Cyfer (Feb 7, 2013)

wernersl said:


> I might give it a whirl during my next tune. Or say fuck it and re-do. Small investment to see if it is worth a shit.


Been using it and the stuff works. I keep it with me when I go up to the mountains in spring time in case the base needs a quick coat. But the process I've been using in the spring seems to prolong the stuff for awhile. 

Before you wax use Not-Wax on a clean dry base a room temperature. Make sure to spread a liberal amount on it, darker bases will develop a shine to them. The let it sit for five minutes or so while your iron heats up. Next using your regular wax, hot wax as normal. You will see the Zardoz puddle up and mix with the wax because it will dry in an odd pattern. This lets the Not-Wax absorb deep into the base. Let the base fully cool for the best results. Finish your tune up however you normally do (scrap, buff, structure, etc) but before you're done top coat the base with another liberal coating of Zardoz Not-Wax and let it sit overnight before riding. 

This is one of the best ways I know of stopping your base from sticking to very wet snow. Enjoy.


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## wernersl (Dec 28, 2011)

Cyfer said:


> Been using it and the stuff works. I keep it with me when I go up to the mountains in spring time in case the base needs a quick coat. But the process I've been using in the spring seems to prolong the stuff for awhile.
> 
> Before you wax use Not-Wax on a clean dry base a room temperature. Make sure to spread a liberal amount on it, darker bases will develop a shine to them. The let it sit for five minutes or so while your iron heats up. Next using your regular wax, hot wax as normal. You will see the Zardoz puddle up and mix with the wax because it will dry in an odd pattern. This lets the Not-Wax absorb deep into the base. Let the base fully cool for the best results. Finish your tune up however you normally do (scrap, buff, structure, etc) but before you're done top coat the base with another liberal coating of Zardoz Not-Wax and let it sit overnight before riding.
> 
> This is one of the best ways I know of stopping your base from sticking to very wet snow. Enjoy.


The site says NOT to structure the base, but buff to a nice smooth surface. Not sure how that will be effective.


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## Cyfer (Feb 7, 2013)

wernersl said:


> The site says NOT to structure the base, but buff to a nice smooth surface. Not sure how that will be effective.


The Not-Wax will not need to be structured. It causes the water below you to act like hydroplane effect. For spring slush it works, I live on the east coast and slush after March or sometimes before is common. So far no issues to speak of as of yet.


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## schmitty34 (Dec 28, 2007)

Hmmmm...I must use way too much wax. I have a metal scrapper and it takes me way longer than 2 minutes to scrape until very little wax is coming off.

I have been very happy with the results, but it takes longer than others are suggesting.


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## boarderaholic (Aug 13, 2007)

schmitty34 said:


> Hmmmm...I must use way too much wax. I have a metal scrapper and it takes me way longer than 2 minutes to scrape until very little wax is coming off.
> 
> I have been very happy with the results, but it takes longer than others are suggesting.


I use the crayon method. Basically, take your wax crayon it on, and then wax like normal. I usually get VERY little waste that way, and a block of wax also lasts much longer. I've got chicken arms in terms of strength and stamina, so I've found this method to be the most time efficient as well.


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## trapper (Jan 15, 2013)

boarderaholic said:


> I use the crayon method. Basically, take your wax crayon it on, and then wax like normal. I usually get VERY little waste that way, and a block of wax also lasts much longer. I've got chicken arms in terms of strength and stamina, so I've found this method to be the most time efficient as well.


When you do this, do you touch it to the iron for a second before crayoning, or do you just crayon it on cold?


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## wernersl (Dec 28, 2011)

schmitty34 said:


> Hmmmm...I must use way too much wax. I have a metal scrapper and it takes me way longer than 2 minutes to scrape until very little wax is coming off.
> 
> I have been very happy with the results, but it takes longer than others are suggesting.


Unless I see a video Id say 30 seconds to two minutes for a full scrape is a total exageration.


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## wernersl (Dec 28, 2011)

boarderaholic said:


> I use the crayon method. Basically, take your wax crayon it on, and then wax like normal. I usually get VERY little waste that way, and a block of wax also lasts much longer. I've got chicken arms in terms of strength and stamina, so I've found this method to be the most time efficient as well.


Wax (unless using a hi flouro race wax) is cheap enough. I have no problems dripping it on; however, I am finding waste in the steam holes. Seems to collect there. Time for a proper iron.


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## poutanen (Dec 22, 2011)

wernersl said:


> Unless I see a video Id say 30 seconds to two minutes for a full scrape is a total exageration.


Yeah I was actually thinking of filming the next time I wax and texture. I won't talk through it cause there are a million videos like that already. I'll just do it and then look back at it to see how long it took...


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## Triple8Sol (Nov 24, 2008)

Waxing is a blink of an eye, but scraping takes me forever. Post-scrape brushing/buffing is quick, only take min or two since I've already spent so much time scraping by that point.


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## OldDog (Oct 7, 2012)

Ditto...

I scrape til I can't see anything thick, then use the scotchbrite to get the shit on the tips and in the dips where my binding screws suck up the base. Ain't no way I'm taking the time to pull my bindings off. Quick buff with the pad end to end, then a quick brush with a stiff nylon brush.



poutanen said:


> The best wax jobs I do are the ones I do in a rush...
> 
> Scrape for about 30 seconds, just enough to get the base good and flat.
> 
> ...


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## Sick-Pow (May 5, 2008)

No one mentions cork polish? 

Slackers.


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## extra0 (Jan 16, 2010)

OldDog said:


> ...I scrape til I can't see anything thick, then use the scotchbrite to get the shit on the tips and in the dips where my binding screws suck up the base. Ain't no way I'm taking the time to pull my bindings off...


just loosening the bindings works


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## wernersl (Dec 28, 2011)

poutanen said:


> Yeah I was actually thinking of filming the next time I wax and texture. I won't talk through it cause there are a million videos like that already. I'll just do it and then look back at it to see how long it took...


Yeah no knocking you but don't see how it could be that fast if done right.


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## OldDog (Oct 7, 2012)

yeah, but fuck that too... slap it on, scrape it off, buff it out, done



extra0 said:


> just loosening the bindings works


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## wernersl (Dec 28, 2011)

Sick-Pow said:


> No one mentions cork polish?
> 
> Slackers.


Never done it. I'll look into it. I'm a bit obsessive.


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## wernersl (Dec 28, 2011)

wernersl said:


> Never done it. I'll look into it. I'm a bit obsessive.


Just realized I quoted my own post. Oh well. Looks like cork is mainly used to rub in wax instead of iron on.


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## boarderaholic (Aug 13, 2007)

trapper said:


> When you do this, do you touch it to the iron for a second before crayoning, or do you just crayon it on cold?


I just crayon it on cold. Go over it with an iron after, and if I miss any spots, I'll crayon over it again.


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