# Detune NS proto?



## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

I have a proto on its way to me now (In Japan so its taking a while) and hopefully it will be here for my trip to Nagano next week. I will be detuning the contact points as I have with all my other boards, but I have heard people say they changed the angle on the whole edge.

Whats the deal is NS different somehow?

To detune or not to detune can someone explain please.


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## grafta (Dec 21, 2009)

Think I read somewhere that the factory edge bevel on NS decks is 0 degrees? Not so good for rails... possibly not a concern in the pow though. I ride an evo and all i've done is blunt the tip and tail, I've done nothing to the effective edge


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## david_z (Dec 14, 2009)

camber zones start outside the insert packs so that's a bit different than some other hybrid cambers where the camber is more underfoot. The rocker section on the NS boards is fairly pronounced too a lot of people mention a squirrelly ride when flat-basing in particular. Detuning is a personal preference, personally I wouldn't really do that, i just don't sharpen as often as some people, but if you were going to ride a lot of park with it then maybe.


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## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

NS recommends not changing the bevel unless you know for a fact that you prefer it with a different one and are unhappy with how it rides, especially since once you do, you cannot change it back, and will alter the way it was designed.

Its definitely an interesting ride with the rocker between the feet, and because its cambered outsided the bindings toward the contact points, it can catch like a regular cambered board if ridden sloppy. I got tossed a couple times real good on the first couple days before I detuned mine, which did help. I used a file, followed by 2 grades of those spongey sanding blocks to completely roll my tip and tail just through the contact points.

Happy with it.


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## linvillegorge (Jul 6, 2009)

I just detune the nose and tail on NS RC decks, even my Evo. Then again, I'm not much of a jibber. Someone much more into jibbing may benefit from a bevel.


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

Appreciate the advice:thumbsup::thumbsup:

I only occasionally do a board slide or two, I spend most of my time in powder and hitting natural features. I plan to use the proto on less deep days and will just do a slight detune of the tip and tail.


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## jyuen (Dec 16, 2007)

when i first got the board, i absolutely hated it... didn't think it was catchy or anything.. i just didn't really like it. detuned it, road it again. absolutely love it now. but this was also my first rocker board...

not sure if i just started enjoying the rocker more or the detuning helped.

i wouldn't detune all around, the proto's not meant for rails anyways. i suggest go factory tune and then take a little bit off tip and tail until you find what you really like?


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## redlude97 (Jan 9, 2008)

I aggressively detuned the tip and tail of my SL after riding it a few days without. I found that the rocker camber has a tendency to dig in more aggressively at the tip or tail when you aren't perfectly balanced over the rocker sections causing it to feel catchy at the contact points. Once I detuned the tip and tial it was much easier to straightline and nose press on the snow without any loss in edge hold


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

I have never ridden C2 BTX either so it should be interesting, just can't wait to get it and get out on the snow.


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

1st Week of Feb 2013 SBF meet in Hokkaido. 

You said you will probably go to Australia check out the Japanese airlines, some may fly from Seatle to Tokyo then on to Oz. 

If you could hit a route like that or even with a Korean airline its just a short and relatively cheap flight up to Hokkaido.

Be great to do some turns together. 

I will definitely pay you for a private lesson if you make it out here:thumbsup:.


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## Triple8Sol (Nov 24, 2008)

Definitely detune the tip/tail a bit. You really ought to be doing that on all boards that don't have triple base (Bataleon/Lobster).


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## jdang307 (Feb 6, 2011)

I had two 2012 evos, one I rode out of the box, the other I detuned and changed the bevel (1/1). Big time difference. I'm not as disciplined and technical as Snowolf for sure, hence the huge difference for me.

I get sloppy, and I still battle major heel lift so my riding is occasionally sloppy, esp. towards the end of the day when my boot gets real loose.

I beveled, majorly detuned tip and tail, slightly the contact points.

I just rode an arbor coda yesterday, it was SUPER fun, however, I sorely missed the camber sections when flatbasing on flat land. I thought RC on the NS was squirrely when flat basing. It's a whole nother world on the Arbor. I have to figure that out.


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## dreampow (Sep 26, 2011)

yeah, I have always done a tip and tail detune and I will don so on the proto when it finally gets here. I will leave the rest as it is.


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## vukovi21 (Feb 17, 2012)

im awaiting my proto to come in these days..i need an advice: when you detune the tip and tail how far inside do you go,is it just to the widest part of the board or you go another inch inside? thanks in advance\

im thinking about doing just tip/tail detune..no need for anything else


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## jdang307 (Feb 6, 2011)

I detuned heavily to right before the contact point, and then just smoothed out the contact point and about an inch in. Smoothed out means just make it so it's not razor sharp.

I've seen some people say they even detune that part, but I didn't want to. I figure it'll blunt itself and I can either sharpen or not sharpen it.


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## vukovi21 (Feb 17, 2012)

thanks man...i think i will do the same


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## Kapn.K (Jan 8, 2009)

Have owned 3 NS decks. Detuned tip/tail on all three. Never had any issues. They have no factory bevel. Flat and 90. I just put a 1.5 base and side bevel as I'm planning on some jib work in a couple weeks. If it save's me from one face-plant, I'll accept the rest of the ride. I am anxious to see how they ride. Would suck if I now hate them...


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## vukovi21 (Feb 17, 2012)

Kapn.K said:


> Have owned 3 NS decks. Detuned tip/tail on all three. Never had any issues. They have no factory bevel. Flat and 90. I just put a 1.5 base and side bevel as I'm planning on some jib work in a couple weeks. If it save's me from one face-plant, I'll accept the rest of the ride. I am anxious to see how they ride. Would suck if I now hate them...


thanks.... jib is the last on my list..glad you shared your thoughts exp with us..i'll just detune the tip/tail and be done with it


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## donkey (Feb 2, 2011)

I detuned my Proto and am very happy with the results. I'm still able to carve good lines and it's not as catchy. For jibbing or buttering, even with a detune, this is not the board for you. hehe


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## biocmp (Sep 15, 2012)

I'd love to hear from more Proto riders about their experience detuning and how it helped.


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## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

after a couple of good edge catches, I detuned the shit out of mine just through the contact points. This helped, made no appreciable difference in grip, and sloppy riding still resulted in caught edges (usually only switch, when I'm tired).


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## hktrdr (Apr 3, 2012)

Is it still the case that all NS boards come with 0/0 bevels? Considering all the innovations and tech in their boards, it is interesting that they do not do anything with the bevels (unlike LibTech, for instance). I guess it helps with owner maintenance - real bitch to sharpen an edge with varying degrees of bevel...


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## snowklinger (Aug 30, 2011)

hktrdr said:


> Is it still the case that all NS boards come with 0/0 bevels?


It was last year, as I recall Vman or another NS rep confirming it.


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## Kapn.K (Jan 8, 2009)

They are, indeed, 0/0. It actually gives you more options. You can stay at 0 or put them anywhere you want. Bevels are great on boxes and rails but you'll miss the extra steel on spring or east coast ice.


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## Slush Puppie (Aug 15, 2011)

I'll confess I'm a little baffled by what people say about flatbasing on NS boards. I rode an Evo from my second week on the snow and running dead flat felt 100% natural and locked in. Much more so than on the stiffer, camber board I learnt on at any rate. To the point where now I'll happily cruise a long flat section - totally flat, in a tail press, nose press whatever. It just doesn't feel squirrely, it feels great! Which seems odd because I really expected it not to from what I read. Maybe the Evo is softer so it just squashes the rocker flatter thus negating it?? But then I rode a Proto for 2 days and that felt fine too.

Also another point, the side edge on mine was a long way off 90 deg, it was so acute that my tool set to 86 deg squared off the edge significantly. Basically the edge was the same angle as the sidewall. It felt absolutely fine to ride like this as I recall. First ride and then after completely edging it. I put the base @ 1 deg and the side at 87deg. I detuned the tip and tail a lot, less so progressively up to and slightly past the contact points. I can't feel a major difference before and after (but did it over the space of a few trips) but the board rides great in pow, piste, ice whatever. Carves, butters all good. Only issue i've had is that sometimes it can skip a little on the heel edge if icy and bumpy. But that feels more like the shortish flexy board(for my weight - 154 @ 170lb) and not soaking up the bumps with my legs (i.e. my fault). And it certainly doesn't slip out completely.


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