# Dealing with bindings that come loose all the time...



## arsenic0

Ok this is really getting frustrating. Long story short i have a 09 NS SL-R and Burton Cartels.

This year they are becoming a huge PITA and i need some advice. After a few runs my front foot binding always comes loose, and if i twist my leg i can rotate it a little bit left and right. Im constantly tightening it at the mountain and its getting old. I tried putting blue loctite on, no dice it still happens. 

But this is what really puzzles me, i always just assumed it was the binding posts on the front or the bolts. But awhile ago i spent a day riding switch on the newbie hills practicing, and what do you know that binding started doing the exact same thing(now that it was the front foot).

My questions are
-Does this say anything bad in my form? Its obviously following my front leg, is something im doing wrong in my form causing this?
-Can i put red loctite on my screws and ever hope to remove them? Im going to try putting a generous amount of blue on and let it set, but i've already put a good dab on each bolt and let it cure for several days and it didnt seem to do anything.
-If not, what the hell can i do? I doubt its my binding posts or my bolts, because why would it follow my dominant foot?


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## PanHandler

are you talking about the screws that tighten the binding to the board? If so, check the teeth in your base plate that lock in the angles. you might have stripped them


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## arsenic0

PanHandler said:


> are you talking about the screws that tighten the binding to the board? If so, check the teeth in your base plate that lock in the angles. you might have stripped them


Yes, sadly no its definately the bolts coming loose. When it starts moving when i goto the station with the screwdriver theres always atleast one screw if not multiples that are loose and need to be retightened a half turn or so.


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## PanHandler

hmm im surprised loctite isnt working then.


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## fattrav

Ok, shit that you can do to help this

1. Grow non-puny arms and fucken tighten it like a man.

2. Was - Apply a little more blue thread lock but just re-read andyouve already tried that...

3. Apply a SMALL ONLY amount of thread retainer or thread locker (no more than half a drip per screw or you're 'proper fucked'). If you are going to do this, make sure that the crosses in the top of the screw are in top condition as you might not be able to unscrew it next time it comes to take your bindings off ....then you're selling a board and binding combo...

4. Measure the binding screw depth and the board insert hole depth (make sure you include the binding plate...adjust screw length if needed, they may be on the cusp of bottoming out.

5. Get new fresh screws if needed (they'll have new fresh blue goo)

6. Not listen to paramore so much

Any one else got any ideas?


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## slyder

I liked the idea of new screws. I have tapped out the threads with a tap to make sure you have good threads. Also take an air gun or some compressed air source and blow into the hole to remove any debris that may be in the bottom of the hole allowing the screws not to tighten.

Just for kicks I would also move both bindings forward one set of holes and make some runs. If you binding come loose in these new holes you will know it's the screws.

*Bindings:*
Did you just get these or been using them for a while?
Are the screws the original screws if you bought them new?
If you got them used you sure they are the correct screws for those bindings?

The Screws for my Bent Metal, Flows and 51/50 are all different from each other


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## freshy

I'm thinking the screws you have now might not be the right size, are they the ones that came with your bindings?
I am also surpised Blue locktite dident work.
Maybe you stretched out your insert holes?


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## racer357

you can use RED loctite but when you want to disassemble you will have to use heat on the screws to get them out without pulling the inserts out of your board.


I think the above post that said man up and tighthen the screws is probably the right suggestion though. Try getting a Bullet tool that has the lever for tightening or get a 1/4" drive ratchet with the correct phillips socket so you can have leverage if you dont have enough hand strength.


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## arsenic0

Sadly im past just "tighten them tighter", i have sat there cranking on it as hard as possible and within a few runs its loose. Its not like im just screwing it in until its tight.

Yes they are bindings ive had now for 3 seasons, original bolts this worked perfectly fine for the last 2 years. Ill probably stay away from Red Loctite as it sounds like a huge PITA...

Im more curious WHY its happening on my lead foot only than anything lol.


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## fattrav

Look, now that i'm alot less drunk than I was last night...

You'll be fine with red loctite - just use it sparingly ok (you wont need heat to undo them *if* you use it sparingly).

*Slyder* has some very well thought out ideas that you could look at as far as what is going on with your bindings. Only run a thread tap into your inserts if you know what you are doing though.

Im thinking its happened to your lead foot only due:
more flex being put on it during your riding/turning,
its the first binding that gets all the bumps and shit when your riding.


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## BurtonAvenger

Clear nail polish dip your screws in it and tighten those fuckers down.


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## slyder

BurtonAvenger said:


> Clear nail polish dip your screws in it and tighten those fuckers down.


only problem with this is you will need to tap out all that junk to wax your board. That stuff will surely leave a lot of residue behind in the threads.

OP I'm thinking you have gotten rust build-up in there over the years and now you are bottoming out the screws on the fine particles of rust and they are not allowing you to seat them to the tightest point so that they now back out on you.


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## BurtonAvenger

slyder said:


> only problem with this is you will need to tap out all that junk to wax your board. That stuff will surely leave a lot of residue behind in the threads.
> 
> OP I'm thinking you have gotten rust build-up in there over the years and now you are bottoming out the screws on the fine particles of rust and they are not allowing you to seat them to the tightest point so that they now back out on you.


It won't leave shit behind and why are you worried about the inserts when waxing what are you coating the topsheet? Fuck I swear people on this site get more and more retarded as the days pass on.


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## slyder

BurtonAvenger said:


> It won't leave shit behind and why are you worried about the inserts when waxing what are you coating the topsheet? Fuck I swear people on this site get more and more retarded as the days pass on.


WHAT you ass hat !!!!! You loosen the base plates to wax the bottom of the board or are you that stupid that you leave the screws tight when you wax it.
And yes the material will be left behind, how will it pull itself out once you break the lock of the nail polish. 

Don't be so judgemental....


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## BurtonAvenger

<=========== Ridden and worked in shops longer than you. ENOUGH SAID!


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## slyder

good for you I understand I'm not an expert on boarding never claimed to be. I was giving good, thought out advice to help a fellow member. I'm sorry I disagreed with your fix, but if it works excellent. It will help out the OP'er

No idea where you thought we were doing something on waxing the top sheet.....I always remove my bindings when I wax my board. You professionals might not do it that way and that is fine. I assume you having worked in shop longer than me, you loosen the base plates?
As most people know including you being an expert, loc-tite can't be loosened continually and retain its locking power. Much like your nail polish idea, once you break the seal to wax the base of the board, you would need to apply more to loc the screws into place again.

Reading comprehension escapes you.


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## BurtonAvenger

Evidently logic fails to grasp at your weak mind. Loctite = no no, clear nail polish = yes yes. Now if you want me to break it down for you on where I gathered you're waxing the topsheets I can do that for you since you obviously didn't comprehend what you read in my response pointing out your stupidity. When you get a few more years of riding/tuning under your belt maybe then we can have a conversation you might grasp till then kindly go fist yourself.


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## slyder

This statement doesn't mean you are waxing the top sheet: you will need to tap out all that junk to wax your board.
hahahaha 
or feel free to point out my error, I'm fine with that.

I just see nail polish as a ghetto version of loctite. But if it works for you that's fine, keep using it.

Sall good a good fisting works to relive stress.

Again I hope some of this banter and variation in tips from everyone HELPS arsenic0 rather than


BurtonAvenger said:


> Fuck I swear people on this site get more and more retarded as the days pass on.


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## fattrav

Wait... you mean.... you guys don't wax your top sheet?


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## slyder

I Armor-All mine, nice n shinny :laugh:


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## Inky

I put pink leopard print griptape on my topsheet, just in case I have in epiphany and I realize that I was destined to become a gay snowskater.


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## arsenic0

Well i put a healthy dose of blue loctite on this time instead of a dab as im used to using.

Ill go get some nail polish next if this bond breaks again...thanks for all the tips.


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## henry06x

I just had this exact same problem.. It was mostly my front coming lose first (I'm guessing caz its the side I like doing most my pressing and shit on) I only had it start happening since I got my new board. The bindings were moving around and coming lose. Came to be mine were just a hair to long.. The holes in my academy were not as deep as my ride boards. I could actually see a dent protruding thru on the base from where they were. I went to the ski shop and they had some that were a little shorter and put those in. Haven't had a problem since and the dents in the base from them bottoming out are gone, and the bindings stay snug and in place.


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## arsenic0

henry06x said:


> I just had this exact same problem.. It was mostly my front coming lose first (I'm guessing caz its the side I like doing most my pressing and shit on) I only had it start happening since I got my new board. The bindings were moving around and coming lose. Came to be mine were just a hair to long.. The holes in my academy were not as deep as my ride boards. I could actually see a dent protruding thru on the base from where they were. I went to the ski shop and they had some that were a little shorter and put those in. Haven't had a problem since and the dents in the base from them bottoming out are gone, and the bindings stay snug and in place.


Interesting, but i dont think thats my problem as it worked fine before.

I think honestly the problem was that i didnt remove my bindings last season when i stored my board, why i dont know but i found out i didnt when i took it back out. Those bindings were on there tight as fuck i had to torque it hard to loosen them. Wonder if i screwed up the inserts abit leaving it tight like that all offseason...


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## h-d

just got a new pair of bindings with thread lock on them...is it normal that you need to put a lil more preasure when screwing the binding to your board..compared to screws with no thread lock?


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## fattrav

Yeah, the initial screw in will be a little firm. Once the loctite has grooves in it, it'll be easier to screw in and out.


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## KG29

Just a quick question do you have another snowboard,try the bindings on there and see if they still lossen.

Then you will know if the bolts are to long/short or if your stretched the insert


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## eelpout

Nothing sucks more than loose bindings on the mountain. 

Was at Copper Mountain once when one of my bindings came off and I could not for the life of me get it back on, it was a deep powder day and the bindings were iced over which made it difficult. This happened within minutes of last lifts closing so I was stuck for time. They had to snowmobile me off with one of the dog patrollers looking for people at the tree line. It took an hour to get back down due to his route. Was kind of fun actually, but something I'd rather _not_ repeat. Now I check tightness at every break.


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## Chosen_OnE

Maybe consider purchasing binding screws that have the 'Loc Tite' coating.


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## CheeseForSteeze

Just loctite them yourself. The key to threadlocking compound working is to use just enough so the thread troughs get compound and letting it set for at least 24 hours at room temperature. Otherwise, it won't work. I've used it on hundreds of folding knives (pivot screw) and motorcycles as well. It works if you use it right.

Keep in mind that threadlocking compound doesn't keep screws tight. It just prevents relaxation due to acoustic noise, which a snowboard (especially at high speed or over textures like granular snowpack) experiences lots of. The actual tightness of threaded members is caused by the longitudinal stresses developed by straining the bolted members when tightening past the point where physical interference occurs. This increases the normal forces on the planes of the threads which is what develops the friction that causes resistance to torque. In other words, if you don't put some muscle behind it, threadlocker won't do anything by itself. Get yourself a quality number 3 phillips head screwdriver with a good handle.


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## Cycle4Fun

CheeseForSteeze said:


> Keep in mind that threadlocking compound doesn't keep screws tight. It just prevents relaxation due to acoustic noise, which a snowboard (especially at high speed or over textures like granular snowpack) experiences lots of. The actual tightness of threaded members is caused by the longitudinal stresses developed by straining the bolted members when tightening past the point where physical interference occurs. This increases the normal forces on the planes of the threads which is what develops the friction that causes resistance to torque. In other words, if you don't put some muscle behind it, threadlocker won't do anything by itself. Get yourself a quality number 3 phillips head screwdriver with a good handle.


A fellow nerd!


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## CheeseForSteeze

Sure am. It pays the bills and good thing because my snowboarding doesn't. It does the opposite.


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## KillFace

Having the same problem with my Rome Mod Rocker and Flux Bindings. It's still a newish board so I doubt/hope it's not the inserts. However after years of hearing or being told that all boards have the same screw insert depth and it's the base plate thickness that effects the screw length. I decided to check with my old Burton and Capita boards. Turns out the Burtons insert is at least 2mm deeper than the Capita insert.
I'll measure the Rome insert and the Flux base plate depth tomorrow and buy the appropriate size screws. If they stay fixed tight I'll repost for any other poor bastards like myself and OP having the same problem.


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